Alloy Wheel Stripping - Shot Blast/Chem Strip?

[RussBird82]

I'm looking to fully re-paint my standard Galant 17" alloys in a few weeks time. After viewing numerous "How To" videos on You Tube the painting part seems pretty straight forward but the jury seems out on the stripping old laquer/paint off part. I thought shot blasting was the way forwards but have read that this can pit the alloy and can cost about £20 per wheel. Chemical stripping seems the more calculated method but I've no idea of cost. Has anyone ever attempted their own DIY wheel re-furb? As I've already spent £100 on a second hand set of wheels and am expecting to spend about £50 on primer, paint and laquer I really want to keep further costs to a minimum. Please help!

[shaun1978]

Shot blasting will leave you with a rough surface unless you powdercoat over the top of it, to make things easier i'd look up someone with an acid dip for wheels and taake them there

[I-S]

http://clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41045

[RussBird82]

Found one place near(ish) to where I live www.Benflow.co.uk and have emailed for a quote. Plan is to strip em off, 1 coat of etch primer, 1 coat of high build primer, 1 coat of Voltks Racing Bronze (http://www.wheelpaints.co.uk/product_details_215.htm)...mmmm sexy, 1 coat of clearcoat. Might also paint the calipers if I have any left over primer. I reckon I'll be saving about £100 on getting them professionally repainted but I'm be more satisfied doing it myself. That extra £100 can almost pay for a new tyre!!!

[Gowf]

I know its not cheap, but i got my wheels powder coated for £200 by Max Powder in Hemmel. that included all the scuffs and chips out of the rims rewelded and repaired. The finish was really good, i would highly recomend them. They are cheaper for painted, but not sure how much

[RussBird82]

Cheers I-S that's a pretty good job you did there! What type of sander did you use and roughly how much paint is required per coat?

[I-S]

russ- I used the elbow grease sander on the first two, and Kieran's Porter Cable orbital on the second two, which saved several hours work.

TBH, knowing what I know now I wouldn't really bother with the HB primer. The Pro XL acid primer that I used finished smoothly and flat, and I didn't really need the HB. I stuck with it for completeness, but I think you'd be fine skipping the HB and painting straight on the etch primer. For a really solid finish with the paint, budget half a can per wheel, which should give you enough for centre caps also.

Per coat, I tend to spray in bits, working my way around the wheel. On a warmish day the paint I was using dried fast enough that I could just keep working around until I was satisified with the finish, continually building coverage.

[shaun1978]

one thing I have to say is that powdercoat is very brittle and chips v. easily, silver is also a very expensive powder to put on and quite hard to get to settle right as the metal flakes can react with the aluminium, thats why its expensive.....
on the other hand paint is a lot more flexible and forgiving, if you scuff it you can just rub that part down and blow it in again. I would personally not use aerosols though as the paint is usually too thin and doesnt have the same finish as a gun administered paint