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View Full Version : changing ATF fluid - what's the best way to get all the old stuff out?



calum
21-06-2004, 09:54 PM
Somebody posted up an excellent write up ages ago about how to change the fluid bit by bit, ensuring you get all the old stuff out. Think it takes about 9 litres if you do it this way?

Unfortunately I can't find that write up any more :(

Also, how much fluid has it been taking for others to change their gearbox oil? I've got a new filter to go on too and am not wanting to have it just ending up filtering all the old fluid too (not at £23 per filter, anyway!)

Thanks,

Calum

Kieran
21-06-2004, 10:46 PM
I can answer this for you easily as I've just done this -AND- had a couple of pitfalls. See here (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4117) for original thread.

Best way to get the old fluid out is as follows.

1. Warm up car. Park, put in position 'N' and switch off engine.

2. Get under car. Release ATF sump plug. Not sure of location on VR4, but on GLS, it's on the passenger side, near the driveshaft boot. It's a BIG nut, more than 21mm. Make sure before you do this that the dealer has supplied the correct GEARBOX sump plug washer. The engine plug washer is too small!

3. Once the fluid has drained out (as much as 5 litres if it's stood a bit before you drain, clean plug, replace and begin to fill transmission with new fluid, about the same amount that drained if you can. If you didn't measure, then start with 3 or 4 litres (bloody big sump) and check with dipstick.

4. Now. This is the tricky bit. Replacing the ATF fluid in the sump is a start, but doesn't get the fluid out that's in the torque convertor and valve block....So...

5. At the front of the car, on the bottom of the radiator is the transmisson cooler, which is built into the radiator. There's a metal pipe leading to it, and just before it enters the cooler matrix, there's a bit of rubber pipe secured with those 'I'm rusty and will snap' type clips. Now, put about £5 in the swear box and get rid of the clips.

6. Once that's done, work off the rubber pipe. this will cost you another £5 in the swearbox, if not more!!! :veryangry Be prepared for it to split, just like mine!

7. Once the hose is off, you can attach the drain. The pumping side on the GLS was the pipe attached to the radiator, so connect your drain hose to that. On the GLS, I eventually used 8mm Fuel injection hose, which appears to be exactly the same as the original hose. Make sure you attach the hose and secure it VERY TIGHTLY with a jubilee clip, or the line pressure will force it off and you'll get ATF absolutley EVERYWHERE, just like I did! :$

8. Once drain hose is connected, get ready with some more ATF and start the engine. The old ATF will be pumped out of the torque convertor and through the valve block. Keep adding a steady flow of fluid to replace the stuff that's pumped out, and when the fluid changes from tired reddy-brown to bright red, you're done. This should take no longer than a minute.

9. Once you see clean fluid coming through, stop the engine, and use a fresh bit of 8mm fuel injection hose to re-join the two pipes. Secure with jubilee clips *tightly*. And make a further donation to the swear box!!! :lipsrseal

10. Start car, and cycle through P>R>N>D>1>2>1>D>N. Check fluid level and add ATF if needed (and you probably will need to add some - I needed another 3 litres to get the level correct.

calum
06-09-2004, 12:18 AM
perfect - thanks, Kieran

pezza
07-10-2004, 02:04 PM
Oh this sounds like it could be a load of fun ... :rolleyes:

I best put 50 quid in the swear box should I attempt this :D

How many 'tipperz' are experts at this? :)

scc
02-09-2006, 01:34 AM
The work shop manual shows that the fluid should be drain out from the rubber pipe first before draining the sump. This seems to make sense to me to really get all the muck out.

Is there any reason why the write up drains the sump before draining from the cooler area?

Cheers :D
scc

ritch_w
02-09-2006, 08:35 AM
The work shop manual shows that the fluid should be drain out from the rubber pipe first before draining the sump. This seems to make sense to me to really get all the muck out.

Is there any reason why the write up drains the sump before draining from the cooler area?

Cheers :D
scc

i was wondering about this the other day too..... sad person that i am!

Kieran
02-09-2006, 12:59 PM
The reason I did it this way was based on recommendations elsewhere. You see, if you pump out first, all you're doing is re-circulating old (dirty) atf.

By dropping the sump contents first, you're flushing through with fresh ATF, which should help to clear out more crap.

Kalle
02-09-2006, 07:14 PM
There are some articles in the members section:
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18494