I need more cold air !!

[SGHOM]

So this is how I went about it.
pic 1 ] the chrome pipe I bought looked very pretty, but just a tad too big to route. So, in true blue peter style, I raided the wife's cupboard & found the vacuum cleaner !! :$ :$
pic 2 ] I removed the air filter, & the chrome end cap.

pic 3 ] I then drilled the end of it as many times as I dare, to let the air flow a bit better !! :-b :-b

[SGHOM]

next step was to 'borrow' :lipsrseal :$ the air box from PVX, & drill 2 x 50mm holes on the underside.
& then begin to attach the pipes to it !!

[SGHOM]

My son Joe had already attached the red cones to the grill, & routed the chrome pipes up either side of the radiator.
Gently does it, as I lower it down into position !! [ A bit of 'gripfill' secured the hose to the airbox ]
All I had to do then was route the pipes to meet up, & hey presto !! a cold air feed !! :-b :-b

Now......... the theory is, that as the air passes horizontally through the airbox, It meets up with the air coming "gently" up from the pipes I installed. This creates a "chimney" effect, thus drawing up the air at a greater rate !!
The longer the pipe, the more "draw" you get.

If that doesnt work, I'm giving up !!! :rolleyes5 :laugh: :laugh:

[RED]

Okey dokey I'm a girl so bare with me :dozey: but I have to learn! Wouldn't it also be a good idea to help some of the warm air generated from the engine escape easier so as to keep the engine bay cooler as well as? or doesn't this make that much difference?

[Big Ian]

i also use hoover hose and it's joint and fed through a trumpet ended stainless pipe next to my number plate :-D
RED..the cold air can work in different way's ie=better mix (fuel+air),better accelaration,..load's of stuff!!.......OOHHH! YEAH :laugh: better noise (induction kit needed)........

[zentac]

RED - Your right, heat build up in the engine bay is a large problem.... ITs causing me to get fuel cut at 0.8 bar. Theres more room in a VR4 engine bay but it could still be having the same effect.

Interlec - Dump that crap air filter its too restrictive for the FTO let alone the VR4 which requires more air.

[Brind]

Good idea!!

P.S If you removed alot of the dirt under there you'll probably see at least 10bhp in weight savings. :p :laugh:

[-LegnumVR4-]

Is there some kind of filter over the holes u bored in the end of the filters cap Interlec? Could suck a bit of crap thru those holes into the engine.

I've played around intakes and any air filter exposed to the engines heat will decrease performance. I felt poor acceleration, lack of response.

My intake design sucks a huge amount of cold air from the front left bumper due to the gaps in the the bumper (spot light and the slot underneath). Touching the stainless intake after driving around abit the intake is a little bit warm when touched but leave it to idle for a minute and the stainless will become heat soaked from the engines heat. Same goes for the intercooler pipping.

The way around the heat soak is to insulate the pipes which are exposed to the heat. I tested some foam insulation used on hot and cold water pipes. Has a wall thickness of 19mm. What i found is the stainless intake was ice cold to touch and the intercooler pipe was about ambient air temp or less. :-b

[Japmetal]

The way around the heat soak is to insulate the pipes which are exposed to the heat.

In addition to this, you can also get insulation to wrap up your exhaust manifold/downpipe, helping to stop under-bonnet temperatures getting so high in the firstplace [I intend to do some experimenting with this once I get my new panels/vents fitted & my rear brakes unbound ;) ]

[simpsonm]

I was told to raise the car bonnet closest to the windscreen to remove hot air. A possibility on race or drag day maybe. Could steam windows up tho but the hot air would be blasted out of the engine bay.

[nick-f1]

I was told to raise the car bonnet closest to the windscreen to remove hot air. A possibility on race or drag day maybe. Could steam windows up tho but the hot air would be blasted out of the engine bay.

I used to do this on my Sunbeam Tiger when racing to lose heat, but was easier than on vr4 cos the Tigers bonnet is hinged at the front. Eventually had louvres stamped into the bonnet by a friend who worked at Vauxhall, lutons competition department. Shame he's retired now!

[zentac]

Ive got the rear of my FTO bonnet raised to remove hot air, it certainly helps.

[wirdy]

Has anyone else tried 12v computer fans?

I've got five (100mm square) of the little beauties RTV'd to the underside of my kit car bonnet & they pull all the hot air out very efficiently. They weigh next to nowt and cost peanuts as well.

Has reduced my water temp from 110c to 100c when in traffic.
Only drawback is you need bonnet louvres, so no good for my VR4 :(

[bluefox]

Ok bare withme here, but im new to these mods....

Iunderstand the benfits of more cold air...... But from the sound of if there are disadvantages to having the pod filter in the engine bay...............
Are you better to put in a better pad filter in the airbox and plumb more cold air into that, or do you go all out and plumb cold air onto a good pod filter??? But you would then need to sheild the filter from heat??

[Roadrunner]

My intake design sucks a huge amount of cold air from the front left bumper due to the gaps in the the bumper (spot light and the slot underneath)
I'd be careful of mounting the air intake too low in the UK - with the kind of weather we get and the volume of standing water on some of our roads recently, it would be too east to suck up a huge amount of water and hydraulic the engine :eek: :(

Brian

[Roadrunner]

Are you better to put in a better pad filter in the airbox
Does anyone have any definitive information to say that the standard airbox and filter is not good? I see a huge amount of effort going into replacing the standard airbox with one that draws its air in from a hot engine bay, so lengths of flexible piping and some ingenious fabrications are installed to try to get cold air in to the filter. But has anyone been more scientific than that? Any definitive measurements?

I haven’t seen any installations that look like they pull in more cold air than the standard airbox, and I’m very wary about any filters that are less effective at filtering than the one recommended by Mitsubishi. Dry metal filters, in my experience, may be OK for the odd trackday or sprint, but are useless at filtering the debris brought in during everyday motoring. Wet metal filters (i.e. those that need to be coated in oil to work) should be avoided at all costs due to their potential to contaminate the airflow sensor.

I remain to be convinced … ;)

Brian

[-LegnumVR4-]

Theres this to read over:

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2232/article.html

And this is what i based my ideas on:

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_0111/article.html

If u want to get more info on air intake just do a search on that website for 'cold air intakes'.

Also the lowest part of my filter is about 250mm off the ground.

[nick-f1]

Legnumvr4 those articles make for very interesting reading. How have these affected yr design and I notice you use a k&n filter as well. What sort of gains do you think you may have made?

cheers

Nick

[-LegnumVR4-]

Car feels more free higher up in the rpms. I don't have anything to prove on paper what performance increase the cars has but u do notice it. :-b

[enigma]

Installing my pod gave a 20BHP.......decrease as the filter is no where near big enough! It looks cool though! :D :-b

[-LegnumVR4-]

My filter is about 250mm long, cone type K&N. One end of the filter is 150mm in Dia, the other is 100mm, they rate it to suit 500bhp applications. Outlet of the filter and the pipping used to the MAF is 3".

[enigma]

I will be looking to get a much larger filter, but wont be doing anything until I sort out my top secret intake! :D

[jerryd_33]

hi all , i think as blue fox said , keep your standard air box and replace the filter element with a race type element . but do some reconstructive plumbing on the air box . i mean , get some flexible 4inch or larger if you can fit it pipe . one end to be fixed to the bottom of the air box and the other some where not to be seen but to give you the desired effect ---------------- RAM AIR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and **** loads of it .
did this exact same thing on my nissan bluebird turbo and pissed all over a BMW 320 IS . it was really bad for him because his car was all body kited and the wheels ----- plus he had his girlfriend in the car with him .

[chris g]

I am not very technical and I have followed same course on VR-4 as on MR2 - had HKS induction fitted

Alleged to give power increases but is it significant and does it get noticeably reduced by heat soak?

I wonder if increase in response or reduction in response is real or illusory due to our frame of mind - car changed so it must be better/car wil be hot so response is worse

I have spoken to a number of MR2 turbo people and all say free flowing exhaust is key to helping turbo spin up and help increase power/performance AND changing airbox/filter on MR2's at least gives negligible improvement

Have VR-4 power increases due to induction changes been measured when no other factor involved i.e. exhaust/turbo boost/ecu are std?

Perhaps the route to go and I would choose this next time around with a turbo car, is to change exhaust system then see if power/performance on dyno has changed

Then change filter within std airbox (if poss) so only one change at a time to affect measurement by dyno

I would speculate that std induction may be OK with other changes or only a change of filter with std airbox will be needed to help engine breathing sufficiently to aid performance - AND avoid heat soak/our worries about heat soak

At least that's my few thoughts as a psychiatric nurse about these mechanical thingys'

[OSiRiS]

Just did mine.

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=14088