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VR4Kaos
03-02-2010, 07:53 AM
hi all was wondering what is the bennifits of the evo 8's rear diff :satan: and is it an expencive job to buy and fit it /TTTH o and is it werth it.

elnevio
03-02-2010, 08:09 AM
Louis has done it here: http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23198

A few others have also put the Super AYC diff in too.

Main benefits are that it is stronger than the standard AYC diff, and that it can transfer up to twice as much torque between the rear wheels than standard AYC.

If you look hard enough, you can get hold of an SAYC diff for about £500. It only needs a couple of little spacers so it will bolt up correctly.


And /Welcome

VR4Kaos
03-02-2010, 08:53 AM
Louis has done it here: http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23198

A few others have also put the Super AYC diff in too.

Main benefits are that it is stronger than the standard AYC diff, and that it can transfer up to twice as much torque between the rear wheels than standard AYC.

If you look hard enough, you can get hold of an SAYC diff for about £500. It only needs a couple of little spacers so it will bolt up correctly.


And /Welcome
thank you :2thumbsup ive just been on ebay wow the can get expencive ouch maybe in in near future think brakes and boost controler has prioity :dance: thanks again for reply

Gowf
03-02-2010, 01:16 PM
That is if you still want the gayc, and dont fancy something a bit more 'exciting' shall we say. Although then you are looking at around £800 for an RS rear diff plus shafts and a bit of modification to your rear subframe.

Is it worth the hasstle and cost? Damn right it is!

Nutter_John
03-02-2010, 01:19 PM
Where can you get rs diff's from for £800 ?

Gowf
03-02-2010, 05:34 PM
Where can you get rs diff's from for £800 ?


Quite a lot of places 2nd hand. You wont get an uprated plate diff in there, but you will have an ATB.

Nutter_John
03-02-2010, 08:19 PM
Suprised at that as they normally go for £1200 -> £1700 on mlr , there is a 60,000 up for £1350 at the minute

Jesus-Ninja
12-02-2010, 07:51 PM
I did the SAYC conversion, although it susequently transpired that my AYC pump wasn't doing much. The pump is now working, but it's hard for me to give a clear answer as to what improvements there were, as I've effectively gone from an open diff to SAYC. That said, the car is reasonably tail happy under power in the corners, which seems to contradict the more understeery opinion some people have of them. I have found, as a rule, that you have to be fairly hard on the gas into the bends to really work the back end though. The effect of the SAYC seems to be, as has been said already, that it transfers more power across the axle to the outside wheel. Given that this is the rear wheel we're most interested in in the bends, the net effect is similar to trasferring more power to the back over all.

I've considered the notion of going completely RWD (in various guises ranging from a simple disconnection at the front, to a new tunnel and gearbox on a longitudinally positioned engine), but at the end of the day, the idea for me was to have a tool which would do as much of everything without too much compromise (lug loads, pull trailers, not get stuck in the snow / mud, go like stink, be entertaining on track, look nice, fit a family of four on a camping trip, and be a nice place to be on a long journey) - the car is very much all those things to some extent in standard trim, so I'm really after a way to improve each of those without detracting frm the others. SAYC did that. Mental RWD conversions would just make the car less drivable in the snow, for example.

I'm trying my hardest not to go nuts on the VR4, as I have otherprojects which need my attention. That said, this one currently yields the most immediate rewards in grins!

Although, if I blew up my gearbox, I might be tempted to have a play with an Evo box and ACD.... :D

One thing to be wary of with the SAYC is that the filler for one of the fluids (Hypoid gear oil, IIRC, though I may be wrong) will be obscured by the rear subframe, so you have to drop the diff a little off the subframe to service it, which is every 4.5k

Turbo_Steve
12-02-2010, 09:20 PM
and dont fancy something a bit more 'exciting' shall we say Like imminent death? :D


Gowf, I have to say I think you need a 300ZX or maybe a 200SX.

chris g
12-02-2010, 10:53 PM
Off thread - didn't he have a 200sx..

And on thread - if you use AMSOIL the changes can be extended beyond 4.5k miles...

Jesus-Ninja
12-02-2010, 10:55 PM
I think you need a 200SX.

:thumbsup: Comes with a slipper (albeit viscous), all the power through two wheels (the correct two) and lighter than a luxobarge :D

Gowf
22-02-2010, 05:28 PM
Like imminent death? :D


Gowf, I have to say I think you need a 300ZX or maybe a 200SX.


Yep Steve i indeed did have a 200 after i got rid of my s6. s14 touring, was more than mint. Sold it to a friend of mine who has desecrated it somewhat, but its up for sale again now.

Thing is i got rid of it as i was driving like a twat everywhere in it. I couldnt actualy go round a corner in the fasion that is deemed socialy acceptable.

RWD is the way forward though. Although, having now decided something fairly drastic, in a year or so's time i should own something far more fun/dangerous than i ever had before!

miller
22-02-2010, 05:33 PM
in a year or so's time i should own something far more fun/dangerous than i ever had before!

You buying the Buckfast brewery ? :hat:

Gowf
23-02-2010, 01:25 AM
I only wish i could purchase that monestary..... they've got a wormwood patch in the gardens!

Il announce more when ive started it, but unfortunately my leggie will be broken this year.

Sorry for the hijack

Turbo_Steve
23-02-2010, 09:25 AM
Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu

Wodjno
23-02-2010, 02:02 PM
One thing to be wary of with the SAYC is that the filler for one of the fluids (Hypoid gear oil, IIRC, though I may be wrong) will be obscured by the rear subframe, so you have to drop the diff a little off the subframe to service it, which is every 4.5k

Even with the Spacers in place ?

Jesus-Ninja
23-02-2010, 04:09 PM
Even with the Spacers in place ?

So it seems. I must confess, I didn't fit this, so I may be wrong. When the car was in for it's cam belt, Ben fitted it. Not sure whether he used spacers to be honest. I remember you and I having the conversation about spacers (about 10mm I think), and was under the impression that they were required to make the diff physically fit, as opposed to providing clearance for the filler. If there are no spacers, and they will cure this, then I'll make some up next time I do the fluids :thumbsup:

Nutter_John
23-02-2010, 04:11 PM
Yeah the hole does not line up even with spacers

Wodjno
23-02-2010, 04:22 PM
So it seems. I must confess, I didn't fit this, so I may be wrong. When the car was in for it's cam belt, Ben fitted it. Not sure whether he used spacers to be honest. I remember you and I having the conversation about spacers (about 10mm I think), and was under the impression that they were required to make the diff physically fit, as opposed to providing clearance for the filler. If there are no spacers, and they will cure this, then I'll make some up next time I do the fluids :thumbsup:

Without the spacers the diff is sitting 10mm further towards the rear of the car(and the cross member)
You can fit it without the spacers as the there is some play in the shaft to make up the 10 mm. But it's 10mm different from the original diff /yes

Jesus-Ninja
23-02-2010, 05:04 PM
Well, there we go then. I was all excited for a moment at the prospect of not having to drop the diff every time I did a change.

MikeKey
23-02-2010, 08:00 PM
I fitted mine with 10mm spacers and it all fits fine but, yeah, you've got to drop the rear of the diff a fair bit to get at the ATF filler bolt which is pretty much hard up against the rear subframe crossmember :s