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View Full Version : Help clutch bleeding. Help



Dom B
17-02-2010, 07:09 PM
Ok trying to bleed the clutch in the usual way but the pedal is staying stuck down.
Any ideas. Help

psbarham
17-02-2010, 07:23 PM
flick it back up using your toe, its a pain i know but......

Dom B
17-02-2010, 08:04 PM
Right got it back up, blooming strange mechanism. I guess that over centre thing is some sort of clutch damper??

The pedal comes back but the last quarter is either very slow of it just doesn't come back. Could the clock spring around the pivot itself be broken?
I have had the slave cylinder off, no leaks and moving freely, cleaned it up regreased it.

Might try and take the whole pedal box for the clutch off in one to analyse that pivot.

Dom B
17-02-2010, 08:28 PM
Looks like the heavy spring over center thing is the assisted bit to make the pedal lighter. Looks like if the clock spring is too weak it can't pull the pedal back far enough and the assistor keeps pushing which explains some clutch slips lately on a very new clutch.

Nick Mann
17-02-2010, 10:37 PM
No fluid in the sytem always gives that issue. If you haven't got a vacuum bleed system, nows a good time to invest in one. It is a hell of a lot easier to replace the fluid in the clutch system with one of those! If you still have fluid in there and just want to bleed, then wedge the lever to the release bearing to stop it moving whist you are bleeding the clutch. (You'll have to start by pushing and pulling the pedal though - until you get enough fluid in there to provide some pressure to allow the pedal to return.)

Dom B
18-02-2010, 12:15 AM
Well, i had both master and slave cylinder out and the clutch pedal box to see how it all worked and make sure it wasn't jamming. Cleaned up and regreased everything making sure it was free. That clutch assist spring thing is very strange.

I did a couple of mods when i was there. Pictures to follow. First problem is that the way they weld the clutch pedal it is not connected to the lower half of the pivot hole, the softened weld area and the missing weld makes the pedal very soft and bend to the left over time. A lot of guys mention that they have to bend the clutch pedal box away from the aircon as it fouls the servo for the air flaps. Well i bet if you look at the clutch pedal stop screw you will see it is not in line with the little pad on the pedal. I sighted down the pedal and you could see the bend. I straightened it and then put a small weld on the other side too which made the pedal solid.

Alto the clock spring that does the final pedal return after the assist spring goes back over centre was weak. Springs get old with age. I welded a small piece of steel on the back of the pedal where the spring site to pretension it. That worked a treat.

Plus managed to get the bleeding done.

However the bad news.....The clutch is toast.

It is a camskill unit and has done less than 8000 miles. What gives??

psbarham
18-02-2010, 09:02 AM
It is a camskill unit and has done less than 8000 miles. What gives??

camskills oe replacement stuff is really ****?