140 miles to full tank

[gallvr4]

hi all,
need a bit of help and some direction....

since fitting a new FMIC,my car has become very thirsty......and i mean thirsty.....140 miles too a full tank!!!!!! at motorway speeds(70-80mph)

nothing has changed reguards mods......airfilter is very clean.plugs only have 4000 miles on them.

can't think what would cause this????

any help or advice would be great...

did search....but came up with nothing.

brendan

[miller]

welcome to my world Brendan!

[dinger1983]

cant be good im still geting about 200miles from a full tank even after the intercooler went on

[bradc]

I'd guess you have a big air leak and the obvious thing to do is to check all of the plumbing you've changed and even the intercooler itself.

I did over 300 miles to a tank this weekend in my modifed VR-4 which spent quite a bit of time accelerating hard out of corners, passing people and going into serious license losing territory :)

[gallvr4]

I'd guess you have a big air leak and the obvious thing to do is to check all of the plumbing you've changed and even the intercooler itself.

I did over 300 miles to a tank this weekend in my modifed VR-4 which spent quite a bit of time accelerating hard out of corners, passing people and going into serious license losing territory :)


thanks for the info lads.....

just been out for a spin and the (what i taught) dump valve was slow too close,loud long ssssshhhhh after hard accelration,but i'd say your right......i have a air leak somewhere!!!

the search begins

thanks again

brendan

[gallvr4]

hi again.....so i had the bumper off and checked all the plumbing that i had my hands on doing the intercooler.......no leaks too be found anywhere.checked all the other intercooler pipes aswell,all seems to be in good order as far as my untrained eye can tell.

the one thing i did notice is that the plunger in the dump valve (blitz dump valve)was a bit stickie!!!! not closeing as you would expect it to,and staying open a little while ideling......is this normal???could this have something to do with it????
the car finds it hard to idel after reveing it too 3500,drops down to something like 400rpm,them back to idle speed(800-850rpm),running rough as a pig aswell.
have a few lights on the dash that have a mind of there own and seem to come on when they like.....TCL,engin management,ABS.

need to get this sorted as nurburg is only 3 weeks and getting a bit worried....

thanks for any help or direction recived

brendan

[Nutter_John]

is there a rolling road near you ?

I would say you may have a dodgy lambda sensor and it is over fueling on closed loop , the dump value will not be helping as you will lose pressure if it sticks open maybe a clean up and refit of it

Fitting the intercooler should not have such a drastic effect and may be a red herring in this case

[gallvr4]

thanks for the info/help john.
no rolling near me.....but one 50 miles away,was thinking that and rang him.he said he did'nt know much bout VR4's,so not sure but him.
will pull out the dump valve tomorrow for a look.
quick question....should the dump valve be open a little whlie the car is ideling?????
thanks again for the help
brendan

[crazyken76]

i know mine only opens when i take foot off the throttle

[KiwiTT]

I get 230 km for 40 litres at the moment. All city driving :(

Wish I was on the open road more often.

[Turbo_Steve]

Dumpvalve should only open after being on boost, and should close immediately.

I would say your dumpvalve is the first possible cause of your issues: chances are your car knows there is a problem and is running stupidly rich as it doesn't believe the MAF.

[VR4WGN]

i just clocked 320 on a full tank this last 7 days!! town driving although my workshop is 11km from my house so its a bit of a 80km cruise really..
i also think mine is gusseling the gas too!!

to tinker now or to tinker in a fw days when the MAP2 goes in??

[gallvr4]

Dumpvalve should only open after being on boost, and should close immediately.

I would say your dumpvalve is the first possible cause of your issues: chances are your car knows there is a problem and is running stupidly rich as it doesn't believe the MAF.


i had the MAF disconnected while we(me and tommie AKA kitman) were doing an gearbox oil & filter change last weekend, reconnected it and pulled the battery connection for 5 min to reset ECU.

this is the correct way as i read ????????

but in saying that the car was hard on petrol on the way up to tommies!!!

time to have a good look at the dump valve plunger because it is staying open during idle running

plus the car was sitting up for a month or so befour intercooler was fitted!

thanks for the help everone!

brendan

[feonix]

checked for any dodgey connections? anything that could hae accidentaly unplugged?
the dump valve should be able to be stripped down, watching out for springs! might need a clean???

[White Lightning]

Have you still got the standard dump valve? If so, I would be tempted to fit that for now and see if the issues go away ... at least that would rule the dump valve in or out.

[Roberto]

Have you still got the standard dump valve? If so, I would be tempted to fit that for now and see if the issues go away ... at least that would rule the dump valve in or out.

I have one in the attic, as far as I know Brendan, in case you don't and want to try this.

You just might have to clear some spiders out of it.

[gallvr4]

cheers guys for all the help...

as it stands....dump valve staying open round 2mm at idle,when i rev the car too 3000rpm it closes straight away,let off the trottle then the car sometimes cuts out or idles really low and the plunger sits in a different position(bout 4mm gap).the plunger is not moveing as nice as it should do..I.E. sticks in different places on the return movement. i had the dump valve off in my hand today and it took a lot of force/resistance to close the spring,it felt fine moveing in my hand.put back on the car and the same result(sticking).was afraid to strip it with out knowing how!

was told that the diaphram in the dump valve dose give bother sometimes....??? wondering if anyone can explaine this too me!!

if the lamba/oxygen sencer was gone would the engine management light be on!!

hope ye can all understand the way i'm trying too explain my problem

thanks again for all the info

brendan

[gallvr4]

I have one in the attic, as far as I know Brendan, in case you don't and want to try this.

You just might have to clear some spiders out of it.


thanks roberto,very kind of you but ithink i have one in a box off tricks that i got when i bought the car.....if not i will come knocking

[gallvr4]

Have you still got the standard dump valve? If so, I would be tempted to fit that for now and see if the issues go away ... at least that would rule the dump valve in or out.


i think i have wayne.....that was my plan for the weekend

[gallvr4]

right,little progress today.

so i got talking to my friendly mitsubishi storeman today,priced a new temp sensor(the bigger of the two beside the thermostat houseing) and he wanted E65 for it.told him was'nt sure if thats the problem,so he said take it and fit it for a few days and see how i get on,happy days.

new sensor fitted in 20 min,all back together and off i go for a spin....the car felt like it was driveing better and no burnt smell of fuel from the exhaust,(going like a train TBH,100mph no probs),park it back up at the house and it starts spluterting all over the place........."FOR F%*K SAKE". i give up!!!!!

pull the bonnet and the first thing i spot is the dump valve plunger stuck closed,choking the engine(i think it was this,looked like it travelled too far).give a little rev and the plunger returned to normal and running ok again,same thing on the way into work,expect the car died on me going round a slow corner in the middle of town,AAAAAHHHH......MOTHERF&*%$R.got her going,and again it was fine the rest of my drive to work.

so took of the dump valve to see if i could spot anything ,nothing really but i did adjust the spring tention to close the plunger more.....so hopefully this is some help.

have it booked in for an emmissions test in the morning and want too get it up on the ramp for a good look at the exhaust and more importantly the o2 sensor.

i will be saying my prayers tonight

brendan

[kiteman]

Careful what you pray for brendan,
Call tomorrow after the tests

[bradc]

Just remove the bov and plug up all of the holes and see if it gets better.

[richTvr4]

I had a Blitz BOV fitted to my VR4 a while back and had exactly the same issues that you are having, the valve was very slow to close and this made the engine rev very low, I then removed the BOV and fitted a SARD BOV which is a direct replacement. since then the car has been running very well with no problems, even the MPG got better :)

[miller]

If the BOV or any BOV for that matter causes this much hassle and the crap fuel consumption them im going back to standard!

[Roberto]

I've got a GFB Hybrid fitted for over 4 years, apart from needed a good clean and lube ever so often, I've had no issues.

But I would say, fit a standard one and see how the car acts then.

[bradc]

Mike, a bov can cause problems if it isn't setup properly and leaks under load or at idle. A correctly setup bov is perfectly fine to use.

The standard one does of course leak a lot under high boost but because it vents back into the intake you don't have high fuel consumption or any other problems.

[gallvr4]

Just remove the bov and plug up all of the holes and see if it gets better.


thanks bradc....thats my plan for saturday,working all week (12-12)and have no garage to do anything in the evening/night:censored:

[gallvr4]

[QUOTE=bradc]Mike, a bov can cause problems if it isn't setup properly and leaks under load or at idle. A correctly setup bov is perfectly fine to use.

bradc....this is the unit that is in my car since i bought it,

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-ELECTRONIC-TURBO-BOOST-CONTROLLER-VALVE-EVC-EBC-KIT_W0QQitemZ380210482585QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Car sParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item58864f8d99

i am 90% sure that it is "not" set up correctly and i am not sure how to myself,so i don't want to go near the setting's.

brendan

[bradc]

That isn't a blow off valve!

[gallvr4]

That isn't a blow off valve!


no this is the controller thats in my car that i don't think is set up right.....

sorry was'nt been smart,just pissed off with this car

[Wobble]

managment light will prob be caused by the tcl light coming on . i had this and as i am aware it is common and easy fix.

my old evo vi used to stall sometimes when i released the throttle ,used to idle low then cut out to, this was down to a faulty dump valve i fitted replaced it and all was good,

[Roberto]

i am 90% sure that it is "not" set up correctly and i am not sure how to myself,so i don't want to go near the setting's.

brendan

Then can you safely remove it completely, for now at least?

[Turbo_Steve]

Right: lose the dumpvalve ASAP - it's a 10 minute job with a torch and a screwdriver!

As brad says, either block it off or fit the factory one.

If you're out there more than 30min, I'll be amazed.



Next: temp sensor was a good call. Have you reset the ECU since you fitted it?


The Check Engine light may simply be on because of your dumpvalve!
However if the car as been running stupidly rich, it may actually have corrupted the lambda sensor...it's pretty unlikely though: they usually just dry out with some hard driving.

[kiteman]

Steve, just a thought on the lambda senser, If it were corrupted or faulty surely that would put on the engine management light, would'nt it.

[Turbo_Steve]

You would think so, but I'm aware of cars that have had the sensor giving enough output to make the ECU read a functioning sensor, but the actual output is a steady 0.7v (or whatever).

This is usually seems to be caused by a partial breakdown between the heater circuit and the voltage pickup on the sensor side.

[gallvr4]

[QUOTE=Turbo_Steve]Right: lose the dumpvalve ASAP - it's a 10 minute job with a torch and a screwdriver!

As brad says, either block it off or fit the factory one.

If you're out there more than 30min, I'll be amazed.

turbo steve/bradc/roberto or any one that has offered advice on this,

please don't think for one minute that i'm not listening to ye....
i am not trying to hold off changeing out dump valve,
just i don't have the time this week with work and other issues,and i am just trying to get as much info as
possiable befour saturday in case the original unit dose'nt cure my problem.




Next: temp sensor was a good call. Have you reset the ECU since you fitted it?

changed temp sensor after doing a bit of reading on some other threads.........ECU was reset after fitting,battery disconnected for 10 min.

[gallvr4]

ok.....so original recurlating valve fitted and all seems to be working well,

car seems to be running alot better,went for a 100 mile spin,driveing hard and motorway speeds and only used just over a quarter of a tank of fuel...happy days.

so next is to get a replacement valve..

thanks to everyone who gave me help and advice on this..../thankyou /thankyou