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View Full Version : AYC extra (external LEDs) in a-pillar mod



MarkSanne
22-03-2010, 11:44 PM
This week, the missus complained about the AYC indicators in certain serious cornering situations. True, as the AYC indicators are not located all that well by our japanese engineers at Mitsubishi HQ back then.

As I did the 260km/h mod using bradc excellent article (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26357) I didn't close everything back up to be able to do the external AYC LED mod too.

Well... first I started looking at the AYC PCB from the gauge cluster that I had left out to see if it was possible to hook up extra LEDs. Didn't seem to be that big of a deal, although I'm not anywhere near really understanding electronics, so I bought a set of green LEDs, drilled holes in a spare a-pillar and connected the 3 slighty shorter LED pins (which are ground) to each other and grounded that to the body chassis.

Then hooked up each AYC LED source feed from the back of the instrument cluster (after putting back the AYC PCB in the gauge cluster ofcourse).

To make removal of the HC instrument cluster just as 'easy' as it normally is, I cut up a USB extension cord and used it for easy attach/detach.

Then I started up the ignition: 3 green AYC bars on the dash. And 2 secs later: 3 green AYC external LEDs on the A-piller! Only bad thing is: both don't go off... I think my chassis ground is wrong isn't it? But then... where should I connect it to?

uploaded/1887/1269297718.jpg
uploaded/1887/1269297746.jpg
uploaded/1887/1269297759.jpg
uploaded/1887/1269297775.jpg
uploaded/1887/1269297792.jpg
uploaded/1887/1269297810.jpg
uploaded/1887/1269297825.jpg

Any advice would be very much appreciated!

Wodjno
23-03-2010, 12:01 AM
Kin awesome work Dude /yes

It's always amazed me when Members say ! Hey! "I had AYC lights up on the Roundabout in the middle town today"

I iz always lookin at the road /yes I suspect i have had 3 AYC lights lit once or twice! But can't confirm!!

Sorry can't help with wiring.. But keep up the good work /yes

giblet
23-03-2010, 12:03 AM
Like WODJNO, I can't help with wiring. But damn good work!

Turbo_Steve
23-03-2010, 12:06 AM
I would suggest you need to run an earth back to the dash earth. None of this chassis earth stuff.

Nitephyre
23-03-2010, 12:10 AM
Hahaha, that's fantastic!

So simple yet so elegant. I find it hard to see mine as the wheel is always in the way.

Davezj
23-03-2010, 12:23 AM
great idea mark.

i always find it quite stupid that you have to look down at the dash to see how far you pushing it.
i was thinking of a leds shining on the windscreen as a bit of a heads up display.

but the A pillar is great. nice touch

wintertidenz
23-03-2010, 12:33 AM
Aww pants, you beat me to the mod :P

Will have a play with mine today as I'm going directly from the ECU, and will confirm the grounds :)

Good work though, very tidy!

apeman69
23-03-2010, 01:08 AM
You're using green, red, black wires in USB cable to connect to pillar LEDs and dash LEDs.
Presumably the yellow wire from the USB cable connected to the pillar LEDs' common (earth) terminal is the one connected to the chassis somewhere. (Purple wire floating about in 1 picture?) Should be a case of leaving the yellow wire at the pillar-end USB cable connected to the USB plug/socket and connecting the corresponding yellow wire at the dash end to the dash earth connection. This is assuming that the same coloured wires are used for corresponding connections within the two USB cable sections.
Generally USB cables have red, green, black, white wires. The metal casing around the plug is connected to the twisted foil shielding on the, normally, white and green data wires. So you would, potentially, connect same coloured wires together. It's difficult to tell from your pics if you are using two sections of USB cable with the same colour scheme for the wires. It may be, though you've probably already done so, worth checking that the pins are connected correctly at the USB plug/socket connection.
Either way, what Turbo_Steve said...

MarkSanne
23-03-2010, 08:17 AM
Thanks for the nice comments guys!

@apeman:
The purple cable comes from the white USB cable which I soldered to a yellow wire from the telephony cable which is soldered to the ground pin on the LEDs.

About the USB plugs: they happen to have the same color wires as the telephony cable I used, so all was easy to hook up. Only color difference is the white USB wire that is yellow in the telephony cable (white/yellow... close enough to keep things logical).

So my initial idea about a wrong ground is correct. Hmm... now's the big question: where can I find a correct ground on the HC instrument cluster.

Would this indicate on being a ground point?

uploaded/1887/1269328630.jpg

miller
23-03-2010, 09:32 AM
Wow great work!

I always need my passengers to tell or yell when when each AYC bar lights up!

MarkSanne
23-03-2010, 05:11 PM
Did some re-wiring without the desired result, so went to a local tv repairshop who always fixes 6G ECU for me and other 6G clubmembers. He explained I needed to do it quite a bit different. I'll do a rewiring job tonight. Unfortunately now I need 6 wires so bye-bye USB connectors/plugs. I'll dig up something else.

I can feel it: a set of proper working AYC LEDs in the a-pillar are just around the corner (...).

steelie600
23-03-2010, 05:15 PM
How about putting the 3 leds on the peak of the dashboard???

Spirit
23-03-2010, 05:15 PM
Got to say Mark, that is a brilliant idea for a mod !!! Well done mate, hope you get it working asap.

Confused
23-03-2010, 05:21 PM
Are they not ground-switched, rather than +ve switched?

Atik
23-03-2010, 05:33 PM
How about putting the 3 leds on the peak of the dashboard???
I would expect the new LEDs can be located anywhere you want, as long as you run the wires there. The fact that its been done is prety darn cool! I am watching the thread with interest as this is something I'd probably tackle too. Might go for a green/amber/red style display though. /Poms

Wodjno
23-03-2010, 05:41 PM
I would expect the new LEDs can be located anywhere you want, as long as you run the wires there. The fact that its been done is prety darn cool! I am watching the thread with interest as this is something I'd probably tackle too. Might go for a green/amber/red style display though. /Poms

Or even Multi colour LEDS.. That display 3 Green, then 3 Amber and then 3 Red/Steeringw

Mark 4
23-03-2010, 05:53 PM
Brilliant work Mark, have some rep.

Atik
23-03-2010, 05:53 PM
Wonder if its possible to add a small buzzer to the third light so it gives you an audible warning when you hit 3 bars :D

Wodjno
23-03-2010, 05:56 PM
Wonder if its possible to add a small buzzer to the third light so it gives you an audible warning when you hit 3 bars :D

That would just be constantly annoying :D

Atik
23-03-2010, 06:00 PM
Yeah right, like you are always on 3 bars when driving day to day /lol

AlanDITD
23-03-2010, 06:02 PM
i think it would be better to also have the third light wired to some neons under the car.....

John TheAntique
23-03-2010, 06:23 PM
i think it would be better to also have the third light wired to some neons under the car.....


Poser.

Turbo_Steve
23-03-2010, 06:42 PM
You could potentially have a white LED for the 3rd AYC light - would mean you saw a VERY bright warning that you were on the limit!

The only word of caution I have is that you're potentially putting a lot of current load on the resistors that drive the LEDs.

Given that the LEDS aren't on for very long, I suspect that it won't be an issue, but I wouldn't get too carried away putting mega bright, heavy current consumption LEDs in parallel with the in-dash ones, just in case. Not sure where the resistors live, but as you're wiring direct to the back of the dash, the implication is that they're inside the AYC ECU?


I'm pretty much certain that you don't need 6 wires, dude: As Garry says, I suspect that these are switched -ve.

Given that there are 4 screws next to each other for the AYC module in the dash binnacle, my suspicion would be that one is permanently positive, and the other three are postive when the LEDs are off.

When an LED lights, it's anode sees 0v, and so current flows and the LED lights.

So you'd need to take the +ve run up in a single conductor, and the 3 switched returns back to where they are on the dash.

Basically, rather than re-wire it completely, stick a voltmeter between the screws you're already using and the one next to them. You should find it's 0v.
Then measure from each of the screws to chassis. The should all be the same voltage.

Now Do the same, but activate the AYC lights (for example, switch the ignition off and on) and see that one screw remains a +2.5v (or whatever) and the others drop to 0v.

If this works, you just need to reverse the polarity of your remote LEDs, and connect the 4th wire to the remaining screw. Job done.


Just out of interest, what voltage are those screws running at?

miller
23-03-2010, 07:09 PM
Wonder if its possible to add a small buzzer to the third light so it gives you an audible warning when you hit 3 bars :D

Thats what passengers are for!

AlanDITD
23-03-2010, 07:22 PM
Poser.

Would suit your car john /megawoot :D

psbarham
23-03-2010, 07:36 PM
Yeah right, like you are always on 3 bars when driving day to day /lol

you've never seen glen on a slow day have you?:lipseal :lipseal

Wodjno
23-03-2010, 09:23 PM
Yeah right, like you are always on 3 bars when driving day to day /lol

You really don't know me at all /Hmmm Do you Atik :quasi:

Atik
23-03-2010, 09:32 PM
I refuse to believe that you drive around in a circle with three bars of AYC all the time /lol

Yes, on the corners, but a 90deg corner takes a second to go around at the speeds to cause three bars. A roundabout at three bars will take a few secs. The rest of the time, you accelerate hard and brake hard = no AYC unless on gravel surfaces.

So it's not about believing or knowing Wodj's driving style, its physics and logic that dictates you being on three bars for less time than you actually think you are.

:D:D:D:D:D:D

Spirit
23-03-2010, 09:39 PM
its physics and logic that dictates you being on three bars for less time than you actually think you are.


.....and the brown stains in your pants that prove you were in Wodj's suicide seat /notworthy

wintertidenz
23-03-2010, 10:25 PM
Will run out to the car now and see if I can find out what the direct feed from the AYC ECU is - 12v permanent, or only when the lights are on.

wintertidenz
23-03-2010, 10:31 PM
Okay, it's 12v permanent with the power going to 0 when the lights are on.

(well, it actually seems to be 8v when the car is off and 10v when the car is on, but that might be the wire/ground I was using).

MarkSanne
23-03-2010, 10:45 PM
Alrighty folks!

We're back on track. And it's working now.
I rewired it all again, so forget all about my first post.

Here we go!

First we start with the 3 screws which provide the (negative) signal to each of the original dash AYC LEDs. And you notice 3 plastic rings which are the key to succes!
uploaded/1887/1269379776.jpg

Next are the same screws with added heat shrink. This is needed to provide a security insulation layer which will explain itself in the next picture.
uploaded/1887/1269380053.jpg

This is the secret to get this mod working: each a-pillar LED is connected to the signal-path (e.g. the red wire at the bottom (negative) and the black wire on the screw (signal)). So in fact all "current" runs through the a-pillar LED and then onto the original gauge cluster AYC LEDs.
uploaded/1887/1269380335.jpg

Now that my former 4-pin USB plug connection is no longer up to the job (it's now a 6-wire connection) I needed a 6-pin connection. The misses suggested RJ45 connectors. Duh!!! I'm a IT geek... I should've thought of that! Nevertheless: it's an exellent way to go, see:
uploaded/1887/1269380501.jpg

A new picture of the a-pillar LED connections:
NOTE!!! switch the wiring between the middle and bottom two LED. For some sort of mysterious reason, the Mitsu engineers felt the need to have the sequence on the 3 screws in BAC ipstead of ABC order. So if you follow the pictured wiring exactly as you see on the pics, you'll end up the the middle LED lighting up first... Better learn from my mistake and wire it up correct.
uploaded/1887/1269380544.jpg

And again with RJ45 connector:
uploaded/1887/1269380576.jpg

And one more of the complete a-pillar:
uploaded/1887/1269380618.jpg

I've used a RJ45-coupler (and wrapped it in soft packaging material, not displayed here to prevent rattling):
uploaded/1887/1269380711.jpg

And the end-result! (might take a few minutes before you can view it!)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MR8BDg0K24c

AlanDITD
23-03-2010, 10:52 PM
bah vid not up yet :(

Awesome though mark, well impressed :)

wintertidenz
23-03-2010, 10:54 PM
So the LEDs aren't actually grounded, just flowing back to the standard LEDs?

Hmm, this has me wondering how to do mine now...

Louis
23-03-2010, 10:56 PM
Well done, nice mod, makes sense, good info also, :)

pezza
23-03-2010, 11:36 PM
nice work there mark. great lil mod! rj45 is a stroke of genius!

Turbo_Steve
23-03-2010, 11:45 PM
So the new LEDs and the existing LEDs run at half their brightness?

MarkSanne
23-03-2010, 11:49 PM
Nope, I could show by disconnecting the RJ45 plug, but I see no difference at all on the original AYC LEDs.

Turbo_Steve
24-03-2010, 12:16 AM
er.....if the current is running THROUGH the new LEDs then surely unplugging the RJ45 means the ones in the dash stop working as the circuit is broken?

Am I missing something, here?


+ve --------------- LED -----------------New LED----------------- -ve
2.5V--------------- LED -----------------unplugged


If they are in series, there MUST be some voltage drop accross them (around 2volts IIRC) which means it's impossible that they are the same brightness.

Atik
24-03-2010, 12:18 AM
Awesome work Mark!

I'm still trying to work out the flow of electricity through the circuit. You said "each a-pillar LED is connected to the signal-path (e.g. the red wire at the bottom (negative) and the black wire on the screw (signal))." Does that mean the red is connected directly onto the shaft of the screw under the plastic washer you have installed? Or is it as the end of the shaft of the screw at the end? The black is then fixed between the top of the plastic washer and the head of the screw?

Edit, I think I get it now: the heatshrink on the screw helps insulate the screw from touching the electric circuitry. The end of the screw still connects as normal. The red goes between the washer and the circuitry plastics and the connection is made complete by the black wire then connecting to the screw.

And as Steve has mentioned, does that not mean the original LED wont work if the RJ45 is unplugged?

AlanDITD
24-03-2010, 12:19 AM
er.....if the current is running THROUGH the new LEDs then surely disconnecting the RJ45 means the ones in the dash stop working as the circuit is broken?

Am I missing something, here?

he means if he unplugged them, the brightness on the dash ayc bars wouldnt increase :)

Atik
24-03-2010, 12:25 AM
The brightness wont matter though as the circuit is broken because the RJ45 plug is open. There is no return flow of electric to complete the circuit therefore the original LEDs dont light up.

The fix is then to remove the plastic washer, I think?

MarkSanne
24-03-2010, 07:52 AM
Correct guys! As soon as the RJ45 is unplugged, the original AYC LEDs on the gauge cluster will stop working.

About a loss in birghtness: I might have gotten the 'understanding' of how the current flows wrong, but as I said: I'm no electro-techie-guru, so just trying-doing-following what experts say-and-being happy it works!

And I really can't see any difference in a before & after situation.

MarkSanne
24-03-2010, 08:27 AM
Got a call from the misses. She did a bit of serious cornering on the way to work and got then to litt up all 3. Kudos. But... I have failed to maintain the correct sequence. The middle LED lights up first (on the a-pillar only ofcourse) then the bottom LED, and then the top LED. So I should switch the middle and bottom ones.

She also mentioned that it was good visible, even when cornering to the 'other' side (with the head turned away from the a-pillar). So it seems like it's been worthwile.

Finally, the frickin' video is available too now: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MR8BDg0K24c

djb160
24-03-2010, 08:55 PM
Awesome. That looks great. Can you do one when driving(once you get it fixed)?

How visalbe are the LEDs when they're not going coz you can't tell they're even there in the video until they light up

MarkSanne
24-03-2010, 10:41 PM
They are hardly visible when they're off. I'll make a video of the misses driving and cornering so you can see what it looks like off and on.

666damned
28-03-2010, 08:35 PM
top job mark..............:thumbsup:

taupodrifta
07-04-2010, 05:56 AM
I have just done this mod but used blue leds and it makes it so much easier to see. Scary now as I can see how hard ime pushing the car on corners lol

Ryan
07-04-2010, 07:01 AM
I have just done this mod but used blue leds and it makes it so much easier to see. Scary now as I can see how hard ime pushing the car on corners lol

/ttiwwop

wintertidenz
07-04-2010, 07:11 AM
Did you go behind the dash as well for the lights, or from the AYC ECU?

taupodrifta
07-04-2010, 07:41 AM
behind the dash it was easier and less wiring to worry about

Sydo
07-04-2010, 10:40 AM
What happens when you turn left? /toycar

MarkSanne
07-04-2010, 12:04 PM
The car will turn left. This mod doesn't change the direction of where you're going.




Sorry... couldn't resist!

elnevio
07-04-2010, 12:06 PM
/haz

taupodrifta
07-04-2010, 09:16 PM
/haz yes the car goes left. The leds I have are super bright so you can still see them. for example even in daylight they still shine on the handbreak lever when i start the car

Sydo
07-04-2010, 11:08 PM
The car will turn left. This mod doesn't change the direction of where you're going.





/haz

But hopefully you're looking towards the left, not gazing at the flashing lights on your right A pillar..

MarkSanne
07-04-2010, 11:10 PM
No mate, the LED lights (even the not super-bright ones) are visible even when your turning a bit to the left with your face. I believe humans (well... most) see around 160-170 degrees in width so you need to really turn your head away to not see the A-pillar/LEDs.

AlanDITD
07-04-2010, 11:32 PM
No mate, the LED lights (even the not super-bright ones) are visible even when your turning a bit to the left with your face. I believe humans (well... most) see around 160-170 degrees in width so you need to really turn your head away to not see the A-pillar/LEDs.

its those times your turning left, you will wish you were a frog, or a horse...

mattnz
08-04-2010, 12:37 AM
Having used super-bright LEDs for other applications, won't they take out your corneas at night?

taupodrifta
08-04-2010, 01:31 AM
Having used super-bright LEDs for other applications, won't they take out your corneas at night?

luckily the way they are pointing isnt straight at my face lol. Just dont push it at night or look like your in a circus

wintertidenz
08-04-2010, 01:42 AM
You can dim the LEDs with a resistor anyway, or colour them with a couple of coats of black permanent marker.

psbarham
08-04-2010, 06:45 AM
its those times your turning left, you will wish you were a frog, or a horse...

nah, just drive faster and still look out of the right hand window :d

mattnz
08-04-2010, 07:33 AM
You can dim the LEDs with a resistor anyway, or colour them with a couple of coats of black permanent marker.

Blasphemy! That involves me pushing a button. Could hook up a microcontroller to dim them when the headlights are on, but I'd probably just go for plain green LEDs, or maybe a green, orange, red setup.

phosty
08-04-2010, 09:30 AM
Would a better location not be tucked behind the smoked clock panel face - there should be plenty of room. That way they're central and all car occupants can see how much you're pushing it?

MarkSanne
08-04-2010, 10:23 AM
I'm not sure about that location as you really need to look down (I think). Well at least that what I need to do when I want to see my gauges (which are hidden in there). Might be no problem to see a LED blinking though, but not sure. In the a-pillar you simply look straight ahead and see them always, even when turning your head (a bit) to the left.

Turbo_Steve
08-04-2010, 04:44 PM
Inside the top of the clock pod so that they shine on the Windscreen? Useless during the day, but EPIC at night :D

Atik
08-04-2010, 04:49 PM
I was thinking that too /yes

AYC bars at night is epic anyway!

Maybe get the third LED light to trigger something else on the car to highlight the fact that you are on 3 bars? Maybe a set of under car neons or a KITT style front LED bar /lol

Turbo_Steve
08-04-2010, 07:55 PM
Whoa! I'll have some of what Atik is having!

How about it illuminates the CVR4 logo? :D

The Vee
08-04-2010, 08:22 PM
Mark, that is a brilliant mod - credit to you Sir! Not being blessed with this in the VR2 never really taken a lot of notice of the bars when driving VR4s. Was "testing" one a little while back for strange noises when cornering and used a roundabout to produce the noise. Was quite unaware of any bars until the owner says - you've got all three bars up!! I'm sure with your mod I could have enjoyed the moment too.

Uray25
18-07-2010, 09:06 AM
Where's that Video Mark ?!