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andydckent
08-04-2010, 02:16 PM
I've been searching for a bit and I know I have seen it somewhere before, does anyone know where the thread is on installing a sub into the boot tray without removing spare tyre etc? Or was that on OZVR4?

Cheers!

Andy

Turbo_Steve
08-04-2010, 04:30 PM
This?

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=498586&postcount=9

andydckent
08-04-2010, 05:10 PM
That's the one! Thanks Steve!

I think its time to compliment the nice focal speakers I installed last year with a wee bit of bass. I've got an old kenwood 800w amp lying around somewhere and since its staying light outside a bit longer now maybe its time to start tinkering again.

Was it difficult to do, what do I need and whats the procedure?

Also does anyone know if its possible to test the safety of an old amp? It has been lying around for years and it wasn't new when I got it.

VR4WGN
08-04-2010, 08:27 PM
or you could hve the Factory twin 10" sub setup that Mitzi designed for the legnums.. i have a box here and i loaded pics up ages ago ,just browse d-package or similar,

elnevio
08-04-2010, 09:04 PM
I knew Hairdryer_Steve would have been on the case on this one! :D

Turbo_Steve
08-04-2010, 09:49 PM
I'm not aware of a reliable way of testing an amplifier without a bunch of specialist equipment (load shunts, oscilliscope etc).

With regards to fitting a sub in the tray, get one with a nice rigid suspension and then measure it. If possible, get your hands on a replacement load tray in case things go horribly wrong.

Then start choosing locations where the sub will fit, and drill a hole where the middle of the sub would be. Poke a long stick through, and confirm that there is enough depth when the tray is down. It's basic, but it flippin works.

On mine, the sub would have sat 10mm too low, and fouled the spare wheel. I knew that the total cone excursion at the front (Fmax) was 12mm. So I had to leave 15mm for the cone to move. So I chose a piece of contiboard the right thickness and made it fit. Loads of glue and and screws later, I have a reinforced tray with a thickness 12mm higher. So the sub now fits.

If you're a bit more ambitious, and don't want to store lots of stuff in the tray, you can take a more radical approach. Take your jigsaw to the tray and remove everything except the outside edge, and the brace across the middle.

Then meausre up a piece of MDF to fit the bottom of the tray, and cut your subwoofer hole so that it sits in the middle of the spare wheel - this gives you massively more mounting depth (upto 50mm on a 10" sub!). Carefully trim down the plastic frame so that the total depth with the thickness of the MDF is the same as the factory tray.

Now you need to make a brace across the subwoofer that will support the boot floor, but bridge the sub without fouling the cone. I was planning to use a length of steel box-section for this, running across the whole board, but mounted on wooden blocks to the correct height. However, I was lucy and found my sub fitted :D

This second method should sound better, and has the advantage of more flexibility when it comes to amp layout, cabling, etc. You can mount a couple of LEDs on the bottom of the steel bar to illuminate your sub if you like that kind of thing.

elnevio
08-04-2010, 09:55 PM
I was lucy
I have always been suspicious... :inquisiti


Otherwise, good info! :D

Turbo_Steve
08-04-2010, 10:22 PM
Gaaaaargh!!!!

Mark 4
08-04-2010, 10:24 PM
Lol Lol Lol.

andydckent
09-04-2010, 01:24 PM
Thanks for this Steve!

The factory twin sub thing looks cool VR4WGN but I doubt there are any over here.

Just need to find a suitable sub speaker and decent wiring kit now. Tempted by one of the focal 10" ones that retail for about £80 just to keep it all Focal, but not sure if its really worth it.

Turbo_Steve
09-04-2010, 02:56 PM
Focal! Moist!

You could do a lot worse than a JL sub, if your budget will stretch. Alternatively, pick up some cheapo bass box off e-bay, rip the cone out and chuck it in and see if it survives. :D

andydckent
09-04-2010, 03:44 PM
Next question before I end up doing a rush job. Where is a good place to ground the negative connection to the amp?

Also which wiring kit to buy? Its a mystery to me... I know I need power (fused and pre crimped), earth, speaker cable, remote cable, audio cable.

http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product_list/c_path/48_215_211/spd/amp-wiring-kits.html

Turbo_Steve
09-04-2010, 03:59 PM
Well, to get mine working I just bared the end of the earth and clamped it with the spare wheel bolt.

To do it properly, you need to find a decent part of the chassis, drill a hole, scrape off some of the paint and bolt a lug to with the earth crimped in.

Wire-wise, do it once and do it right: get some 4awg and run it from the battery into the wheelarch, over the wheelarch and in through the rubber grommet next to the door into the cabin, then along the floor under the carpet to the boot.

You must must MUST put a fuse in. It SHOULD be as close to the battery as possible, though all the fuseholders I've had seem to go brittle and shatter this close to a turbocharged engine, so I sheathed the wire in a second layer of plastic, and put the fuse in the cabin. I wouldn't reccomend this to anyone else, though.

andydckent
13-04-2010, 04:54 PM
Thinking about this again has got me wondering about whether I should buy an amp for my focal door speakers. I have the 165A coaxial and components but the stereo out is only 50w where as the speakers are Max. power handling: 120W Nom. power handling: 60W. If I was to do this what would be a reasonable amp and just how difficult is the wiring and is it worth the time and effort?

I will run the focal 25a1 sub (Power Handling: 200 watts RMS/400 peak) off the kenwood 7201 800w amp in bridged mode. Does that sound sensible?

Turbo_Steve
13-04-2010, 06:52 PM
Andy - Buy Gowf's HiFonics amp - it should run the sub and speakers adequately in one package. Wiring is a bit of a pain, TBH, as to get the full benefit you really need to run fresh speaker wire into the front doors. Plenty of people just run speaker wires to behind the headunit, and then send the signal down the factory wiring, however.


Your headunit is quoting 50wrms power output?
Hmm....What size fuse does it have in the back? 20A?

The thing is, they all quote these amazing figures, but outside of a lab, you are NEVER going to see that headunit produce 50watts RMS.

Most headunits rated at 4 x 40wrms typically deliver 4x20wrms (yes! really!) with transient peaks as high as 35.
What you'll find is that as you turn the volume up, the system starts to sound "harsh", prior to full on distortion. It's tiring to listen to.

If you run your front speakers off a proper standalone amplifer (with a proper power supply) then you'll get much better sound, for much more of the volume range. Ideally, if you have a sub, you'll be able to run a high-pass filter at around 60-80Hz, too, which stops the speakers flapping around trying to produce frequencies that are too low for them, which in turn improves the effective power handling of the amplifier (it's not trying to generate huge bass waveforms for speakers that can't handle them, leaving more Powersupply headroom) and the speakers will suffer from less distortion as they are trying to reproduce a narrower frequency band.

It's a multiple-win situation.

The catch is that the focals are good. Really good. Which means your amplifier and headunit need to do them justice. Which means you need something as good as, or better than, a Hifonics or Pioneer.

In an idea world you'd look at MTX or (best yet) Pheonix Gold (moist) or even Genesis. After that is starts getting REALLY expensive.

I'd seriously have a look at Gowfs, and see what you can get for the Kenwood on e-bay? I know it looks like it'll only do 200watts for the sub, but it's fairly underrated kit - chances are it'll give you enough of what you want.

And if you want more from it, you change the focal sub for a dual voice coil one, and run it at 2Ohms instead.

andydckent
13-04-2010, 07:46 PM
Thanks for all your advice Steve!

I am coming round to your way of thinking.

Can you advise me would this be the appropriate wiring kit?

http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/12683.html

Also I would guess that I'll probably need an additional 20ft of speaker cable, what would you recommend?

http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product_list/c_path/48_215_301/spd/power---speaker-cable.html

It seems to me that by the logic of running the sub with more power than its rated would mean that 200w would be a bit low, but I suppose I could run both amps? I doubt I'll get much for the kenwood one.

Turbo_Steve
13-04-2010, 08:23 PM
The power kit's about right.

I'd suggest the speaker cable is somewhat overpriced.

Have a look at www.maplin.co.uk, stock codes XS47B and XR60Q

I would suggest that XS47B is probably more than adequate for the job in hand, and just as good as any of the stuff you've listed. Bear in mind that if you go too heavy duty, it starts to become difficult to get the speaker cable to where you want it!

andydckent
16-04-2010, 04:58 PM
Well that is everything on order, Focal 10" Sub, 4 awg wiring kit, 10m of extra speaker cable and Gowf's Hifonics 1000w amp which he is bringing with him when he comes to Edinburgh!

I suppose I should now think about getting some MDF to fit in the boot tray and cutting it to size.

Turbo_Steve
16-04-2010, 05:06 PM
I'd start measuring things first! It'll tell you how much cutting / shutting you're really going to need to do.

andydckent
19-04-2010, 05:14 PM
Just been reading the spec on the Focal 25A1 sub. It suggests using a vented enclosure. Bearing in mind the enclosure is the spare wheel area would it be worth creating a vent near the speaker, and if so where?

Turbo_Steve
19-04-2010, 06:58 PM
Start sealed (well, as sealed as you can in this configuration) - it's the simplest box design, and will work without ripping the subwoofer apart.

Once you've got it working, and sounding roughly how you like it, you can start using tuned ports to control the frequency response lower down.

Bear in mind that a port/vent really needs to be calculated based on the size of the enclosure and the Theile-Small parameters of the Speaker. As I don't know either, I'd be tempted to leave it sealed permanently.

andydckent
26-04-2010, 07:46 PM
Next question...

How to I get the plastic tray out of the back? It seems to be hinged, is there some where I can unscrew it or does it click out?

Turbo_Steve
27-04-2010, 05:32 PM
You need to remove the carpeted panel on top of the tray "hinge".

There are two plasic recesses for the shiny metal hooks on top of it.
The plastic trims actually unclip and hinge up in the middle to reveal bolts holding the tray down. This is a good place to hide your inline connectors if you're leaving the tray relatively detatchable.

Wodjno
27-04-2010, 06:10 PM
I don't wanna start a New thread just to find out a bit of INFO on Sub's /Hmmm

So if theres no objection can i ask my question here ? To keep it all together in the Sub-Section :coat

Cheers

Wodj

andydckent
04-05-2010, 08:58 PM
Right, construction has begun. Ran into my first problems today, first of all the amp is too high to fit into the boot tray. Secondly my speaker hole did not provide enough depth as it fouled the metal wheel well.

So the amp is now going where I have just removed the old sat nav unit thing. Unfortunately this means I will have to cut the boot tray at the front. Not quite sure how to attach it, I guess drilling holes is on the side where the sat nav unit came out is OK.

The sub is now positioned right in the centre of the rear tray which has been reinforced and raised with 3 cm of MDF. This leaves just enough space for speaker, but I think it may be very close to being in contact with the boot floor. I hope this doesn't spoil the sound, but there is a big rubber ring/lip round the cone so i hope that OK if it touches.

A question on speaker wiring now. Should I wire the left and right door speakers in parallel to create 2 ohms and then run the channels bridged? Or just use a channel for each speaker at 4 ohms. The reason I ask is that the speakers suggest 60-110W but at 4 ohms the amp only delivers 55W.

All advice appreciated!

Andy

CANDEE
05-05-2010, 07:01 AM
A question on speaker wiring now. Should I wire the left and right door speakers in parallel to create 2 ohms and then run the channels bridged? Or just use a channel for each speaker at 4 ohms. The reason I ask is that the speakers suggest 60-110W but at 4 ohms the amp only delivers 55W.

All advice appreciated!

Andy
Now if you are running the amp for both the fronts and the sub you only be able to run the fronts off one channel each and bridge the other two channels for the amp(assuming its a single 4 ohm sub).

Paralleling the fronts will take away your panning left and right ability, also your amp wont be 2 ohm bridged stable, so will most likely shut down....

Your fronts will be fine off 55wrms, it is way better than the 16-20wrms they would be getting off a the headunit....

J

Turbo_Steve
05-05-2010, 08:23 AM
Er.....then it wouldn't be stereo any more - it'd be mono. Which would suck?


but there is a big rubber ring/lip round the cone so i hope that OK if it touches. if you're talking about the squashy rubber/foam surround on the edge of the actual piston (speaker cone) then: No. This is not allowed to touch anything. If it is, your speaker is likely to sound rubbish, or simply burn out. If you've mounted the speaker in the middle, you have the entire depth of the spare wheel - even with 15mm MDF (which should be adequate to reinforce the bottom of the tray) you should have absoloutely masses of clearance? To give you an idea, I considered using this location (instead of the back corner) to drop in a 15" cone: it's huge. (hint: standard wheels are 16", so should be able to accomodate a 15" speaker?)


Amp - yes - this can be a bit tricky :( I ended up removing all the badging from mine to make it fit properly (forgot to measure the badges).


The amp should operate happily inside one of the rear wings, however: If you do it right you can present all the controls on the amp into the cubby at the back of the car.

andydckent
05-05-2010, 12:16 PM
Hmm I think I may have to sand down the MDF to give slightly more depth for the sub then, even about 5mm should be enough. I guess this could be tricky, I'll have to think it through.

I'll have to find some very thin board to mount the amp on as there is not much spare depth even under the cubby hole. I think I will bolt this to the wholes the sat nave unit came out of, and then bolt the amp to the board, which will need some wood under the side that goes toward the wheel well for support.

As for the wiring I had meant for example:

Channel 1&2 Bridged - Left Front and Left Rear doors = 2 ohms
Channel 3&4 Bridged - Right Front and Right Rear doors = 2 ohms
Channel 5 - Sub = 4 ohms

So still stereo.

I am not sure if this is unnacceptable or pointless but I am sure you can advise!

Cheers!

Andy

Turbo_Steve
05-05-2010, 12:27 PM
Ahhh! Right, that makes a lot more sense.

And no, it's fairly pointless - you're better off running your front speakers full whack - if you present a 2ohm load to a bridged pair, it's effectively seeing 1ohm......that's a tricky load for an amplifier.

You could wire them in series to present an 8Ohm load, but there isn't any performance benefit.

You're best off wiring it all up in the normal fashion, dude.

Did you buy that HiFonics in the end? If you did, then I wouldn't be worrying about power output: Unless the speakers are absolute rubbish with a really low sensitivity, 55watts should be enough to cause mild physical pain in the mid and high frequency ranges.

And HiFonics generally UNDER rate their kit.

Look at it this way: that amp is set up to give a very balanced output. It's not going to be epic, wake the neighbours, blow out your windows loud. It will, however sound really really good, and be loud enough that you need to shout loud to make yourself heard in the car.


The Cubby at the back (the one inside the rear wing) on a legnum is absotively HUGE....it goes right down to the bottom of the car!

It's a bind as you need to take off all the boot trim, but it's got a supply of fresh air and room for a LOT of kit in there, dude: Mitsubishi actually mounted a sub in there on the Right Hand side, and that's got the AYC bottle AND the fuel filler neck in there!

If you're paranoid, mount a fan at one end of the space, sucking in air from the boot and blowing it through, but I really don't think it needs it.

andydckent
05-05-2010, 12:50 PM
So the big hole I can see here, that exists on the other side? :)

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/uploaded/3977/1272287743.jpg

Turbo_Steve
05-05-2010, 03:14 PM
I believe so. You mount the amp into the hole with it's controls poking into that little cubby (cut the side out of the cubby).

andydckent
05-05-2010, 03:19 PM
This is a great idea! I've had a look in there and there is already a hole cut at the back of the cubby for access to some black plastic case which you can slide open and is metal inside. I currently have no clue what this piece of kit is.

Turbo_Steve
05-05-2010, 04:44 PM
It's the factory fit CD multichanger. If you're a bit cunning, you can probably use the brackets for it to mount the amplifier :)


So tempting to tell you that it's the factory-fit smoothy maker :D

andydckent
05-05-2010, 04:50 PM
I am liking the sound of your 'cunning' plan baldrick! The CD changer is currently about as useful to me as a factory fit smoothy maker might have been. I suppose I should try to strip out all of the extra wiring while I am at it.

Confused
05-05-2010, 04:51 PM
We've got a complete PC mounted in the cubby hole on the passenger side, and a 4 channel amp mounted on the other (in the V6, so no AYC gubbins) - still with plenty of space!

It's amazing how much space there is in those sections, completely unused as standard!

Turbo_Steve
05-05-2010, 05:18 PM
Well, as you'll be having the carpet up to run the power and RCA feeds to your amp.....yeup, I'd suggest you remove what you can.

Garry - InCar PC....Yes, yes. It would fit beautifully. I'm not jealous of that little feature at all. Oh no. :|

Now...if it could just have a second, 4" widescreen in the clock aperture..........

Ohhhh - like this: http://www.lcdshow.com/3.5_6.4-10.4_LCD/3_5_vga_lcd/3_5_vga_lcd.htm

Maybe Two of them? :)

wintertidenz
06-05-2010, 04:47 AM
Or a 128x64 full colour LCD screen? :P

andydckent
10-05-2010, 10:55 AM
Update:

Well installation is now sitting at about 95%.

I am however now in considerable pain and don't recommend that anyone takes on this task lightly.

First job was the boot tray.

I used some paper to trace out the bottom of the rear part of the boot tray. There was not going to be enough depth for the sub so I constructed an MDF floor 3cm thick with the aid of the tracing and made it fit. Unfortunately the tray is shallower at the back than the front so I had to cut out most of the floor, leaving edges at the front and for part of the side. I painted the MDF floor black and secured in place in place. With the sub there is about 1cm clearance above the tyre and 1cm about the sub to the boot lid.

Then fixing the amp.

The amp is rather large and has been mounted on thin plywood connected to a modified part of the fixing that used to hold the CD changer. It will be dropped into the large space behind the left boot wall facing into the hole. The controls will be visable from the cubby hole on this side with a bit of cutting.

Power cable.

The most difficult and frustrating parts of the installation where running the cables. The very thick power cable is run from next to the battery through into the wheel arch and then through the rubber grommit at the back of the wheel arch into the cabin. Its worth noting that the rubber blacking grommit lower down in the wheel arch doesn't seem to be a route that you can use.

Speaker cable.

Each of the door speakers is run off its own channel on the amp. It was a hell of a pain getting the cable through the rubber boots into the door. The fronts were easier than the rears. I resorted to using some quite hard flexible plastic tubing that was wide enough for the speaker cable to go through. I pushed this through the boots and then ran the cable through. I recommend using something to lubricate the wires and the tubing to get it through as this makes the task a lot easier!!!

I am in pain.

The task has taken around three days of work in all. My legs are sore from all the bending down and my fingers are aching cut and bruised from running the wires. Yesterday there was at least one finger bleeding and any one time...

So to recap what you will need.

Focal 25A1 Sub
Set Focal 165CA1 Coaxial speakers
Set Focal 165A1 Component speakers
Hifonics Zeus 5 Channel Amp
4awg amp wiring kit
12m extra speaker cable
Lots of MDF
Screwdrivers, knives, socket set, Crimping kit, jigsaw, etc.
About 3 days
A pint of blood.

Will upload some pictures later.

Andy

Turbo_Steve
10-05-2010, 04:44 PM
I am in pain.

Wuss :D

You're just not doing it often enough: Next time you'll find that you're stronger in all the right ways and it's much easier.

Well done on the install, though! Can't believe you struggled so much with the sub, especially as you were butchering the tray: I'd have just let the magnet sit in the centre of the spare wheel - lot's of room there!

Good result, though, dude! Well done! Can't wait to see some pics.

andydckent
10-05-2010, 05:02 PM
Thanks for all the good advice Steve!

If I had realised that my calculations were a failure the first time I tried to mount the sub I would have probably just done it in the middle of the spare wheel. As it is though in the rear try, though more hassel was probably worth it to maintain the stealth factor.

Enjoying listening to some System of a Down at full pelt on the way to work this morning! The extra thud from the sub and juice frome the amp has made a huge difference!

Will try and get pics on later!

Andy

Turbo_Steve
10-05-2010, 05:54 PM
The stealth is worth every moment of the effort when you seem some a$$hole in a carpark looking through the windows trying to find the sub.

andydckent
11-05-2010, 10:21 AM
OK now I could use some advice on the set up.

The output level from the headunit is supposed to be 2v so I have set the level controls on each channel (6v-0.2v) to just over half way.

Should I have the HP filter turned on for the front and rear door speakers? I currently have it set but some songs especially some rock songs the kick from the bass drum seems to be lost between the door woofers and the sub. There also seems to be a lot of treble. I could set the door speakers to full range but I am worried this defeats the point. I have the filter set at its lowest setting.

The main bit of the bass in most songs seems OK, I have the bass filter set at its highest setting and the bass eq set about 10 o'clock which boosts the bass at 45hz (not recommended to go past 12 o'clock).

And what about the head unit eq? Should this be set to flat and then adjusted later?

Cheers!

Andy

andydckent
11-05-2010, 11:14 AM
For the record a link to the manual of my amp:

http://www.maxxsonics.net/manuals/hifonics/pdfs/HifonicsZeus09AmplifierManual.pdf

Its the 8010 the 5 channel one.

Turbo_Steve
11-05-2010, 06:08 PM
Manual is downloading now.

I'd suggest you need a little more gain on the amp than "halfway" as that would be 4V. I'd turn it to around 1/3rd, if not a bit lower (i.e nearer to the 0.2V setting).

You want the HighPass filter set on all the fronts.
This should be a variable frequency filter - I would set it to 80Hz for focals in a VR4 - they will take a bit of bottom end just fine. Chances are that 80Hz is as low as it will go.

You want the low-pass on the Sub set to 80Hz as well, this should give you a good crossover point.


Quick and dirty guide for getting it to sound reasonable:
Mute the subwoofer, either by turning it down on the headunit or by unplugging it.
Set the door speakers to full range.
Fade the headunit forward.

Play the CD you want, and get the volume and Headunit EQ to sound about right....don't worry too much about the bass end.

Now fade in the rear speakers...they should be around 50% of the fronts.
Check your EQ still works.

Now you can introduce the sub very very gradually. You should find it's a little intrusive with the car sat idling (once you're moving you'll lose quite a lot of bass and want to turn it up a little more - for now, though, keep it set low on the headunit). Play your test track again, and when you're happy with the sound, flip the high-pass filters on.

Now readjust the subwoofer and overall EQ again.



This is a really Ghetto method of setting things up - it's not the best, and it's not at all scientific. What it DOES do is allow you to hear the effects of each change as you make them.

Chances are that once you've got it all how you like it, you'll go for a drive, and want to change it all again.

Be aware that if you're using more than very small changes in headunit EQ, something isn't right! I find I need to knock off a tiny bit of top end as my tweeters are too brash...I use as wide a Q as possible, and as little attenuation as I can, and base it around 12k.

It's probably still brash at 15k, but it's entirely possible I've attenuated my hearing in that frequency after a life-time of listening to bad night-club systems clipping themselves senseless.


Short of having a 36-band EQ and getting it put on full on spectrum analysis - a Dyno for Car stereos, you're never going to get it perfect, but this is a good way of just running it all in and listening to the relationships between the various components.

Bear in mind that the sound will change as everything beds in and gets some heat through it.

Chip
11-05-2010, 08:09 PM
Next question before I end up doing a rush job. Where is a good place to ground the negative connection to the amp?

Also which wiring kit to buy? Its a mystery to me... I know I need power (fused and pre crimped), earth, speaker cable, remote cable, audio cable.

http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product_list/c_path/48_215_211/spd/amp-wiring-kits.html


I grounded mine to one of the Brake light screws
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/5221/img2497c.jpg (http://img193.imageshack.us/i/img2497c.jpg/)

andydckent
11-05-2010, 11:08 PM
Photos attached

Turbo_Steve
11-05-2010, 11:20 PM
Looking very good, Andy! I hope you've put some trunking around the wiring where it goes through the bulkhead - just to stop it getting sliced through.

Really nice, though: All accessible, all hidden. Top notch!

wintertidenz
11-05-2010, 11:41 PM
Very nice setup!

I agree with TS - you shouldn't need to adjust the EQ too much, if you do need to then something isn't quite right. You can use a bit of cloth in front of the tweeter to get rid of the harshness, but that also muffles a lot of the other frequencies. Additionally you can reverse the wiring of the tweeters and see if this helps.

ZEUSvsHADES
02-08-2010, 01:37 PM
mate thats nice. check out mine
http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?9783-sub-install&p=184121#post184121

gareth001
10-08-2010, 11:51 AM
Just found pioneer do a spare wheel sub - costs a bit at £300 RRP though:
http://www.pioneer.co.uk/uk/products/25/131/201/TS-WX610A/index.html

Turbo_Steve
11-08-2010, 07:22 AM
Without wishing to judge it prematurely, I'd be very impressed if a design like that can go as low as effectively as a sub in the oddments tray.

I'm not knocking it - it's an excellent product, but I suspect it's still a compromise on sound quality.

You're asking the enclosure to rotate a wide variety of frequencies by 180 degrees - very very difficult.

OF course, I haven't tried it, so I could be completely wrong :)

gareth001
11-08-2010, 08:42 AM
Without wishing to judge it prematurely, I'd be very impressed if a design like that can go as low as effectively as a sub in the oddments tray.

I'm not knocking it - it's an excellent product, but I suspect it's still a compromise on sound quality.

You're asking the enclosure to rotate a wide variety of frequencies by 180 degrees - very very difficult.

OF course, I haven't tried it, so I could be completely wrong :)

I'm waiting for a saxo/peugeot driver to mount one of these subs in their spare wheel tray under the car...

For a main stream manufactorer though - it's far more universal for a spare wheel "replacement" sub than mounting in the offments tray, as not all cars have the tray. But yes I can't see it as being as good as a sub mounted within the oddments tray.

If Panasonic want to lend me one I'm willing to have a try though...

andydckent
13-08-2010, 12:08 PM
Right, I've recently adjusted the EQ on this.

It sounds really great when I play rock music but if I listen to anything with more bass the boot floor has started to rattle annoyingly at and above medium volumes.

The rattle obviously goes away if I apply pressure to the boot floor.

What it the best way of sorting this out? Perhaps some sort of thin sticky foam where the floor rests on the tray?

Cheers!

Andy