stalling ?

[VR4Kaos]

just droppped me kids off @ school on way back was in 2nd gear and my car started to splutter and then stalled pulled over turned it over again a it started no pprobs but then continued to splutter soon as i deaccelerated or came to a near stop it was like intermedeate power asswell when reasting on acelerater @ about 20/30 mph dose any one have a clue

[foxdie]

Coil pack maybe?

[elnevio]

What level is your fuel at?

Have you been able to see if it does anything odd when you're flooring it?

[VR4Kaos]

I got a quarter of a tank and was too much traffic kids ect to floor it although I did a little on one quite road and seemed ok but maybe slightly under power not 100% on that tho Nev

[steelie600]

I got a quarter of a tank and was too much traffic kids ect to floor it although I did a little on one quite road and seemed ok but maybe slightly under power not 100% on that tho Nev

what fuel are you using Karl, mine does that on normal super unleaded and bog standard unleaded(97ron and 95 ron), but its fine on 99 ron V power and tescos

[VR4Kaos]

when ive used 95/97 its a lil hesertent when first start so ive only ever used 99 tesco's fuel as i am very local to tesco's not filled up for a few days and it been ok untill today
just got back from the gym and it seems to be gettin graduly werse stalling nearly every time i slow to a near stop it will stall

[Turbo_Steve]

I reckon you've probably got a split in a hose, Karl.
First thing to check is that the black "elbow" hasn't come off the throttle body.

Then go over all the hoses carefully and make sure they are intact.

[VR4Kaos]

thoughly cheaked the pipes/hoses Steve no splits or owt suspisous i have started engine and pulled excellerater cable to see if i can hear a hiss os see anything obvouis but to no avail but the black hoses swelled up so think that conferms that they aint leaking it seem to stall when i slowing/deaccelleratng to a stop but before i actuelly stop it stalls also when steady driving holding acceleater to maintain the curent speed there seems to be intermedate power like its pulsing or summit or searching for fuel im thinking fuel pump please tell me im wrong...

[VR4Kaos]

just been for a blast on my mate private road (again) and give her a lil blast to see if it cleared anything or give me any clues but nuthing to report apart from it seems to be stalling more and more frequent

[Davezj]

your idle control valve might be on the way out or just need cleaning. or the electrical plug is not push on correctly. the MAF plug can have a similar effect if not pushed on correctly.

[elnevio]

Pull the error codes as well: http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45151

[steelie600]

Karl, can you get to mine?? Ill have a look if you want!!

[Turbo_Steve]

Have you changed the HT leads since you got it, Karl - they would be my first bet if it's not a pipe off - does it idle a bit rough?

[VR4Kaos]

will look into the idel control valve thanks Davezj
i aint got the leads nor knowlage for them error codes Nev mate :( sorry
i don't fancy driving it all that way Kev it its current state but thank you very very much for the offer much much appretated
i havent changed my leads Steve i was planning to do this alongwith the plugs and she dose idle ok unless she gonna stall then revs splutter and the she dies :(

[wintertidenz]

You could try resetting the ECU or cleaning the idle stepper motor.

[VR4Kaos]

not provern as yet but think it gets werse the hotter the engine gonna wait till it cooled right down and give it a try again

[rayray24]

This sounds like it could be a gearbox prob. Is it a manual or trip?? If trip then oil may need to be changed.

Had what seems the same thing on my old leggy.

[Turbo_Steve]

Mine idled like a bag-of-crap once it was warmed up, and was down on power, and would hesitate and backfire and all sorts when the leads had expired.


You can read off the error codes with nothing more than a paperclip, carl - no special equipment required!

For what it's worth, I am certain it's not your idle control - It's a good suggestion, but it wouldn't make any difference whilst you're under power (i.e. actually driving): the idle control issue only tends to appear when you've been driving and arrive at a set of traffic lights and OMG it's died.

[Turbo_Steve]

As Ray says it COULD be a gearbox problem, but I wouldn't have thought it would splutter and die - but then it hasn't happened to me!

The only other thing you could try is unplugging the MAF and see if it's failed / misreading, but I think that's pretty uncommon on VR4s.

My money is still on the HT leads / coilpack at the moment.

[VR4Kaos]

thanks for all the input peeps
but defo is a peculour one this got too late last nyt to test so been for a little spin this morning and all seems ok no idle probs and no stalling or anything now im confused.
Which one is the maf plug Steve also is there a way of testing ht leads / coilpack

[VR4Kaos]

btw my gear box is tiptronic but changes gear real smoothly without been able to feel the gear change so doubt it be that but also i know nuthin

[elnevio]

The square flat plastic box on top of the pipe that is joined onto the back of the airbox is the MAF (well, it actually includes the pipe, but I hope the description helps). As you look at it from the front, there is a plug on the left of the flat box, which is the MAF plug.

Best way with leads is to take them off, unfortunately, which is an inlet manifold off job, a la doing the plugs. You could however check out one end of each of the three HT leads where they join the three coilpacks. The coilpacks connect directly onto the front three spark plugs. Visually inspect them for cracks or shorting. You only need take the engine cover off to get to these items (5 bolts) and the coilpacks are held in with 1 bolt, IIRC. You don't need to unbolt the turbo Y-pipe when removing the engine cover - just undo the five bolts, and then the oil cap, and there's enough room to manoeuvre the cover free. Just make sure you replace the oil cap so nothing drops in!

I'm not sure how easy it is to check that a coilpack is failing, other than by swapping them in and out with a known good one. Perhaps someone else with some idea can advise!

[Turbo_Steve]

Easiest way to test the HT leads is simply to fit some more. Given that it means having the inlet manifold off, you might as well just do your leads and plugs and have done with it.

MAF plug...er....see the big trumpet at the front....it goes back to a big black box......at the back of the box is a plastic tubey-thing (and that's the MAF) and then there is a signal wire plugged into it.

Treat the connector with care as the wires can be a bit fragile.

Given that it's okay when it's cold, it's unlikely it's the MAF - problems with this tend to be consistant.

[VR4Kaos]

i cant get it to stall again no matter what i do but ive tinkerd with plugs and wires now the TCL light is on on the dash and wont go off wtf have i done im about to cry

[VR4Kaos]

"o" and how do i do this paper clip test

[andydckent]

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45151

[VR4Kaos]

ive been searching on camskill for new leads plugs and coil pack but not sure of exact ones to order i was wondering if any one have the exact part number or direct link
Magnecor HT Leads ?
NGK Iridium BKR7EIX (found)
coil pack ?

[Turbo_Steve]

LOL! We're back to my original comment - I would now say you DEFINITELY have an air leak.

The TCL light staying on probably indicates that the leak is in the TCL system.

At the back of the engine on the RHS (as you face the car) is a grey canister and a couple of solenoids. Chances are there is either a pipe off here, or a crack in the grey canister, or one of those solenoids has failed. It's not uncommon (they get baked back there!).

A vacuum leak would be consistant with all the symptoms you descibe, and fit better than HT leads, plugs or indeed most other stuff - hence it being my original suggestion.

Back to the pipes with a fine toothed comb, and definitely read off the error codes from each system and post them up.

[VR4Kaos]

LOL! We're back to my original comment - I would now say you DEFINITELY have an air leak.

The TCL light staying on probably indicates that the leak is in the TCL system.

At the back of the engine on the RHS (as you face the car) is a grey canister and a couple of solenoids. Chances are there is either a pipe off here, or a crack in the grey canister, or one of those solenoids has failed. It's not uncommon (they get baked back there!).

A vacuum leak would be consistant with all the symptoms you descibe, and fit better than HT leads, plugs or indeed most other stuff - hence it being my original suggestion.

Back to the pipes with a fine toothed comb, and definitely read off the error codes from each system and post them up.
ok ive been back out thourly cheaked everything and no sighn of leaks but i can't get it to stall no either also after messing with the wires plugs and grey cannister the tcl has gone off im well lost now

[andydckent]

The TCL problem I think has something to do with a resistor getting too hot. I used to get this after a long journy, stopping/slowing down (thus engine bay gets hotter) and going again. Haven't seen this problem since before the winter although I expect it will come back now its getting hotter outside again. Was error code 72.

[Davezj]

sorry karl, would have offered to bob round and sort this out for you, but i really haven't had any free time of late. if you don't get it sorted soon let me know and i will have to sort something out for you.

i am not far from you at all.

i am snowed under at the moment, but feel free to PM me.

[VR4Kaos]

sorry karl, would have offered to bob round and sort this out for you, but i really haven't had any free time of late. if you don't get it sorted soon let me know and i will have to sort something out for you.

i am not far from you at all.

i am snowed under at the moment, but feel free to PM me.
thank you Davezj much appreated
im not sure what ive done touched or knocked but every thing seems to be fine with her now no matter what i do i can't get it to stall woop woop i don't think this is gonna be a permanet fix tho summit just tells me summit is on it's way out and will soon be giving me trouble in the near future

[Davezj]

you might have just pushed a connector on with out knowing it or flexed a wire. i know i did it when i cleaned the idle control valve on mine.
there was nothing wrong with the valve or the idle but, there was a lot of talk on here at the time about them so i thought i would take mine off and have a look at it.
when i put it all back together it ran like a dog. stalling all the time and running really lumpy. so i did the continually trying to restart the car bit. but it just kept on stalling and running ruff. the valve needs a bit of time after disconnection to set itself back up again. but it was not getting any better, i rechecked all the connections and i had not quite pushed them all the way in, on the idle control valve or te MAF. they both looked perfectly pushed together but not quite.
once i had pushed them together that last bit everything ran sweat as a nut.

it is always good to ensure you here the confirming tlick as the connector full mates. but some connectors on my car don't klick back in any more the plastic on the connectors ia a bit old and lost it spring, so no nice klick.

sorry to rabbit on a bit, but we will have to have a little meet up at some point as you are a local. even just to put a face to a name.

glad you got sorted for now anyway.

[VR4Kaos]

thanks everyone for all the input advice and reassuranse it is all very much apretated /thankyou :chugchug:
Davezj defo have to av a "mini meet lol" like you say face to name ect name time and place as im free most days after 12 o'clock /Wave

[Turbo_Steve]

I want to meet you too, Karl - I was saying to Nev the other day that you remind me of someone...would like to see if you're like them in person!

[VR4Kaos]

id love to meet you to steve you endless knowledge just astounds me wanna see if you wear proffeser glasses pmmsl any time steve mate name time and place
btw aint anyone goin to the trafford center for that drfting thingymajig

[Turbo_Steve]

No Glasses anymore - Got my eyes Layzored

[VR4Kaos]

was only joking Steve mate

[Turbo_Steve]

LOL I figured - I am just being literal, dude.

[VR4Kaos]

nice too hear i get talked about btw lol
am i the talk of the club pmsl
"i hope so so much/Devil5 ":smoking:

[Kieran]

nice too hear i get talked about btw lol
am i the talk of the club pmsl
"i hope so so much/Devil5 ":smoking:

You know what I heard about Karl the other day?!:cowboy: /secret

Oooh Matron! My ears almost fell off!! :speechles

Did you know tha:inquisiti :uhoh2:........ Oh, errr.... Hai, Karl... :coat

:joker:

[VR4Kaos]

good job i aint poranoid init :uhoh:

[Kieran]

good job i aint poranoid init :uhoh:

/Cue walke-Talkie Crackle

Move in! Move in! :dalek:

:D

I'll stop hijacking now... /Hijack

[Josh2xsv]

Hey Karl

I just saw this thread and I had a very similar issue and it was a faulty MAF.

It was an intermittent problem that kept arising - the car would stall everytime the revs dropped and i put the car into gear, sometimes it wouldn't idle at all.

Anyway turns out that i could tap the top of the MAF with a screwdriver handle and the car would cough, splutter and stall, and then restart the car and have it coughing, tap the MAF again and the revs would instantly become smooth again- go figure!

I ended up grabbing another MAF off bradc and swapping it out. Works perfect now.

Just thought i'd let you know as this sounds like exactly the same issue as i had...
The thread link here (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38691&highlight=stalling).

Hope you get it sorted mate.

Chrs
Josh

[VR4Kaos]

Thank you very much josh seems the issue has dissapeared for the time being but if this happens again this will be the first port of call thanks again mate