Which boost contoller?

[Chip]

Just been looking around at a few, Which ones do people tend to go for? I get the feeling in in over my head here lol im more of a electrical person than mechanical.

Cheers,

Chip

[VR4Kaos]

i got this one mate
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Manual-Boost-Controller-Toyota-MR2-Turbo-Supra-GT4-MBC-/350268863453?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item518da6b3dd

[Chip]

Any good?


is there much difference between boost controllers?

[VR4Kaos]

it works put it that way i think unless you go for a ebc there aint much init its only a screw, spring and ballbearing quite sure a guru will be here to explain all the details real soon

[dinger1983]

I wouldnt bother with one now mate with the 7201 ecu flash so close to being on sale you'd be better waiting on that you will see better results and wont have to worrie about fuel cut

[Chip]

Ive got a fuel cut defencer and an upgraded fuel pump so that shouldnt be a prob I dont think?

How much for the ECU?

Mines a 97 type s auto pre facelift

[VR4Kaos]

fuel cut defencer intresting how does this work ?

[Kieran]

fuel cut defencer intresting how does this work ?

It 'clamps' the signal that your MAF sends to the ECU.

With simplified figures, let me explain the basic way they work:

Without Fuel Cut Defender (FCD):

Just pootling about, the engine is gulping, let's say, 100 cubic feet of air per minute. Your MAF reads an airflow of 100 CFM and sends a signal to your engine ecu (again, for example) of 100hz. The ECU then uses this to work out how much fuel to squirt (it uses other sensor readings and calculates stuff too).

You put your foot down. The turbos spin up and the engine starts gulping 500 cubic feet of air. The MAF sends a 500hz signal to the ECU. The ECU thinks "Bugger me, that's too much incoming air!! Cut the fuel, protect the engine!!" - and it switches the injectors off.


With a FCD:

Just pootling about, the engine is gulping 100 cubic feet of air per minute. Your MAF reads an airflow of 100 CFM and sends a signal to your engine ecu (again, for example) of 100hz Before the ECU sees the signal, it goes through the FCD. Because it's a low readout, the FCD doesn't alter it.

You put your foot down. The turbos spin up and the engine starts gulping 500 cubic feet of air. The MAF sends a 500hz signal to the ECU. Before it gets to the ECU, it passes through the FCD. The FCD is set to 'clamp' the signal. It sees a 500hz signal coming in, but this is above the 'clamp' of 400hz. So it feeds the ECU a 400hz signal instead. The ECU thinks "Ah, 400hz. That's still okay, so I'll squirt this much fuel in".

The problem is - The more you clamp the signal, the bigger the difference between the actual amount of air going in, and the amount the ECU thinks is going in there - This can mean that the ECU starts to under-fuel (because it thinks there's less air going in), and that leads to detonation.

FCDs have cost a couple of members on here their engines. Yes - they can 'dial out' fuel cut... But the way they do it is very crude. NOT a recommended mod, I'm afraid.

[VR4Kaos]

nice one Kieran mate you just saved me £110 and quite possably my engine init mate thanks for the detailed explanation much much appriated :iloveyou:

[Kieran]

nice one Kieran mate you just saved me £110 and quite possably my engine init mate thanks for the detailed explanation much much appriated :iloveyou:

No worries mate. :thumbsup:

[dinger1983]

the flashed ecu is your best bet mate more bang from your buck

[Beastlee]

Can this be accounted for with something like an e-manage blue then?
I may not have used my blue yet but I recommend the Greddy Profec E-01 and e-manage blue combo for an all-round tuning package.

[crazyken76]

i got this one mate
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Manual-Boost-Controller-Toyota-MR2-Turbo-Supra-GT4-MBC-/350268863453?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item518da6b3dd

that looks like the same one as mine

[Wodjno]

This 1 for me /yes

http://www.templetuning.co.uk/greddy-e-01-profec-303-p.asp


And that is an awesome price /yes

[Beastlee]

This 1 for me /yes

http://www.templetuning.co.uk/greddy-e-01-profec-303-p.asp


And that is an awesome price /yes

Not as awsome as the price I paid you eh Glenn? /Hmmm
Have to admit that is cheap though, compared to the ones I was looking at a few weeks ago!

The fact you can log runs and tweak the hell out of the boost pattern is great but add-in the signal harness and you can log a great number of additional items. The unit can then be linked to the e-manage blue for a complete in-car programming scenario.

[Wodjno]

Not as awsome as the price I paid you eh Glenn? /Hmmm
Have to admit that is cheap though, compared to the ones I was looking at a few weeks ago!

The fact you can log runs and tweak the hell out of the boost pattern is great but add-in the signal harness and you can log a great number of additional items. The unit can then be linked to the e-manage blue for a complete in-car programming scenario.

And Clamp the MAF if required /help

[foxdie]

I've got an HKS EVC 3 on mine, it does it's job but at 15+ years old, it's flagging a little, it doesn't adapt as quickly as a boost controller should do, once in a while I get the odd bit of fuel cut.

Another thing is, it doesn't seem accurate either, I set it to boost up to 1.20 and it'll actually boost up to 0.88 - 0.90 quite nicely.

I think what I'm gonna have to do is remove the boost restrictor pill and then retrain it.

[Beastlee]

I think the only downside to an E-01 is that the figures never make any sense LOL How does 37/38/9.0 equate to anything useful in boost LOL

[Wodjno]

I think the only downside to an E-01 is that the figures never make any sense LOL How does 37/38/9.0 equate to anything useful in boost LOL


No different to the Bass, Treble or Volume Numbers on a Stereo :)

[kinkyafro]

I wouldnt bother with one now mate with the 7201 ecu flash so close to being on sale you'd be better waiting on that you will see better results and wont have to worrie about fuel cut


Disclaimer: I am biased so don't just take my word for it.



Remap v Boost controller

Boost controller allows boost level adjustment - remap only allows a fixed boost level (at the moment)
Boost controller will usually have a superior boost control actuator/solenoid then the stock item (remap with improved boost control actuator is going to be looked into)
remap can adjust fuel cut sensibly and allows a higher boost level
remap allows fueling/timing improvements
remap allows several other minor adjusts (speed limiter, rev limiter etc)



Of course you can have a boost controller and a remap :)

boost controller recommendations I've been given are the budget gizzmo ebc and at the top end the apexi avc-r (never used either personally though).

[psbarham]

avcr.

still regarded as the industry leader

[Beastlee]

I've always liked the look of the AVC-R and the fact you can put it next ot the RSM to make a nice combo unit that increases performance and can tell you by how much :)

[Turbo_Steve]

I'd broadly agree with Dinger - get the remap first, and if the boost control isn't "tight" enough for you, consider upgrading.

The only good reason I have heard for turning the boost down is "Wife".
Apart from that, with a properly mapped ECU, more boost should result in better economy when you're not driving flat out. And when you ARE driving flat out....why would you want to turn the boost down!!?

Whilst the remap uses the factory solenoid, and this may not be the very last word in tight boost control - unlike the factory ECU + EBC, you're a lot less likely to hit fuel cut - you're allowed a little boost spike by the ECU as is spools, then settles down.
So whilst the EBC will give you the benefit of better boost control....do you really need it?


And, as Paul says, the AVCR is widely regarded as the industry leading boost control for a reason - it's very very good!