one piece flywheel

[Adam.Findlay]

I am im the market for a new clutch as all the chch club members already know but i dont wish to keep the factory flywheel, i want to get a lighter single piece, does anyone know where to get one. BNT dont, trademe dont, and I cant seem to find one anywhere else. does anyone know if one from another car will fit?
yes I do know the evo ones do but im not going to risk my entire driveline on a spacer so that options out.
the guy from NZAD on trademe seems to think a american eclipse flywheel could be the money but hes not sure

[Gly]

S.R.D do one, but its not 1 piece but it is lighter,
and pro shop iida do one, at around $1200

thats it, no more options

BTW lighter is not always better.

[Adam.Findlay]

oh righto i got told by a mate that he reccomends a heavier one, but my understanding is that increases inertia therefore slowing down the engines response and slowing accleration. what the deal with weights?

[Kenneth]

You are correct about the inertia and it slowing down increase and decrease of RPM.

However it also makes the engine less resistant to stalling, makes the accelerator touchy (hard to keep smooth, especially when cold) and smooth shifting is more difficult.

Like most things, it is really a trade off between comfort and ease of use vs performance.

I have a cusco twin plate designed for an evo. It is close to 3kg lighter and has the mass more centralised to further reduce inertia. I pretty much have to heel-toe whenever I down shift to get a smooth transition. Pulls hard though!

[Adam.Findlay]

so how is your clutch fitted kenneth? is it a evo flywheel/spacer jobbie or not. i know a lighter flywheel will make it more "touchy" through the gears but a bit of driver compensation can remidy that. im not worried about drivability (to an extent) but i definatly cannot afford a twinplate.
im either going exedy organic disc with hd cover or 5 puk with hd cover, all depends on if i can get a one piece flywheel or not because i dont want to put a puk clutch on the factory 2 piece. but finding a lightened flywheel is a PITA
cheers to carsten for the pro iida idea but 1200 is horrendus. especialy for a poor student.

[Gly]

i have a 5 puk on my stock flywheel, no probs.

[Kenneth]

In all honesty, You would probably have more success lightening the standard flywheel as the flex plate will allow you to remove a good amount of the un-used material without risking going too thing and chucking it through the transmission and whatever else gets in its way.

I have a very thin spacer (2-3mm) but have also made a spacer for the starter motor, otherwise that would foul the ring gear.

[Adam.Findlay]

yeah well im in the process of geting a price for a custom solid plate with bolts will let you all know.
probably me being over cautious but i dont want a bar of this spacer business i just dont think its clever putting all of your driveline on a spacer, but thats just me,
and although the pro iida bit looks a sexy bit of kit i would have to sell the car to pay for it

[Adam.Findlay]

well the machineist down here said it should be roughly 5-600 dollars +gst for a custom 1 piece lightened flywheel

[Kenneth]

Wouldn't it be better to lighten the standard flywheel?
Because it is dual mass, you can keep the flex plate standard and cut out any unnecessary meat in the actual flywheel. That way you don't risk getting a flywheel where the centre is too thin and it flies through your transmission and whatever else gets in its way.

[Adam.Findlay]

but if one is being custom made a better material can be used and it can be made to reduce inertia keeping strength in mind. hmm strange that there are so few opinions on it, would have though light flywheel would be a common-ish mod to get bit of extra accleration consideing the weight of the cars

[Kenneth]

I would think that the majority of people buy VR-4s for their effortless bottom end acceleration and comfort. When you lighten the flyhweel you gain some acceleration at the expense of comfort. The VR-4 has enough bottom end torque to make that unnecessary for most... You can probably get better results with more boost.

To reduce inertia you have two methods you can use. You can either reduce the mass, or bring the weight closer to the centre of the flywheel. A combination of both will give the best results (as in my twin plate)

If you are going to be using a standard size pressure plate, friction plate etc then you are committed to reducing the flywheel mass.

I very much doubt you can make a single piece flywheel that is as strong as the standard 2 piece and as light as using the standard flex plate and reducing the mass to the minimum necessary. The flex plate is very very tough, so much so that you cannot cut it, you need to grind it.

Even chromoly can be machined and you will need more mass in the centre to make it strong enough.

If you are set on getting a light weight flywheel, look up aluminium flywheels on google.

If I was going to pursue a light weight flywheel with standard pressure plate etc, Aluminium is the way I would go.

[Adam.Findlay]

im looking at getting a uprated pressure plate one of the exedy ones, sport tuff i beleive they are called, righto i shall try and have a talk to the machineist

[Adam.Findlay]

http://www.rhdjapan.com/pro-shop-iida-chromoly-flywheel-ec5a-galant-ec5w-legnum-55473
heres the one gly mentioned although cheaper then he thought i dont know how much it would cost all up landed in nz, any rough ideas?

[Gly]

about 1000$ inc shipping, NZD$ + import duty/tax,
$1200 wont be far off

[Adam.Findlay]

wow thats alot. didnt know the import tax was that much. better look into it. im still thinking that the pro iida one is a better option then a custom one although it is almost twice the price

[Nick Mann Services]

probably me being over cautious but i dont want a bar of this spacer business i just dont think its clever putting all of your driveline on a spacer, but thats just me

Respect to you for wanting to develop a perfect solution.

My thoughts on the spacer - it is in an almost purely compressive situation, with contact on every surface. The bolts I supply are longer to ensure there are still plenty of threads in the crank. I honestly see no reason why there should be any issue with the spacer being in the drivetrain, as long as it is machined with the inner and outer diameters being a good fit on the crank and the flywheel, keeping the flywheel spinning centrally.

[Gly]

Customs charges — imported goods

Imported goods, such as those purchased on eBay and other international websites, may be subject to the payment of duty and/or GST.

Regardless of whether the imported goods incurred taxes in the country of purchase or not, it does not exempt the importer from the payment of New Zealand duty and/or GST.

In addition to the payment of duty and GST, an Import Entry Transaction Fee of $24.75 (GST inclusive) may apply. This fee is payable at the same time that duty and GST is collected. A biosecurity risk screening levy of $4.00 is also collected by Customs on behalf of MAF Biosecurity New Zealand.

The following list provides duty information on goods commonly imported by private individuals. The rates are a maximum rate — in some instances the duty rate may be less than that shown, as a specific concession or preference rate may apply.


so, gst + $$28,

so around $1153 for the PSI flywheel or there abouts and this will depend on the exchange rate, which is only getting worse

[Adam.Findlay]

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49470&highlight=clutch
as shown here the evo pressure plate is different and all be it a tiny difference its still a diference which is why i dont want to go near a spacer or even risk having a mis match in the one piece of equipment that transfers all the engines power to the driveline. and you may argue because an evo clutch has worked for you in the past but ralliart81 seems to be a exedy rep (by his sig) so he will know what hes on about.
sorry nickmann im not saying your way is bad, im just saying id rather not run the risk, although the risk is small,

I have decided I am going to get the flywheel custom made for $600 rather then fart around and paying twice as much on the pro ida one. but now is the decision of clutch
do i get a MBK-7223HD (heavy duty pressure plate / organic disc)
or MBK-7223HDCB (heavy duty pressure plate / cushoned button disc)
any opinion would be much appreciated,
im not going near a MBK-7223HDB as i know buttons can be a mongrel to drive and cause to much shock to the driveline.
i know the cushoned button will be vastly more expensive then the organic disc one.
has any one had experiance with a cushoned button in any car, i have heard good things. (good for exedy but heard to stay away from bnt's xtreme cushoned button)
PS does any one know the weight of the factory flywheel? and what a good weight would be for a lighter flywheel, i do want it a good bit lighter and im not to worried about driveability (to an extent)

[Nick Mann Services]

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49470&highlight=clutch
as shown here the evo pressure plate is different and all be it a tiny difference its still a diference which is why i dont want to go near a spacer or even risk having a mis match in the one piece of equipment that transfers all the engines power to the driveline. and you may argue because an evo clutch has worked for you in the past but ralliart81 seems to be a exedy rep (by his sig) so he will know what hes on about.
sorry nickmann im not saying your way is bad, im just saying id rather not run the risk, although the risk is small,


Thanks for the link - you'll notice I have already posted some of my findings and measurements in that thread.

As I said, the ideal solution is the one you are aiming at - a system designed specifically for the VR4. Unfortunately, as we all know, there aren't many off the shelf solutions. That means getting one offs/custom solutions which will often be unique to each car. This is not a cheap way forwards, although it is in an engineering sense the best way forwards.

I developed my solution as a way of opening up the Evo options for the VR4. The kit has been used in many VR4s now, from almost stock, to very excessively not stock. One car using my spacer was rolling roaded at well over 400 bhp.

As I have mentioned in the thread you link to - I spent time researching differences between evo items and stock items, so I truly believe my solution is much neater than simply bolting an evo clutch to a machined VR4 flywheel.

Good luck in your project - I'm looking forwards to seeing your results and hearing your feedback.

Nick.

[Adam.Findlay]

thankyou nick,
i see now that your soloution will not foul but i am not keen on a spacer. i see that within the link people have been using evo pressure plates on vr4 flywheels which causes fouling. neither which methods i plan to do.
but yes i will report back with my findings.
i would just like some opinions on cushoned button clutches. I am going to get the prices for each kind tomorow.
when i get everything i will put up pictures of the flywheel and clutch

[Adam.Findlay]

sweet well got prices today and the 7223HDCB cushoned button clutch comes in at just shy of 1100 nzd dollars from jap race supplys here in chch and the machinist said the flywheel should not be more then 600 dollars so 1700 dollars or just less then for a lightened flywheel/cushoned button clutch combo. just a matter of money now, i will post pics up when i get the flywheel and do comparitive 1/4 mile times to my previous 13.40 when installed

[Wodjno]

Does anyone know the weight of a VR4 Stock Fly Wheel ?

[Adam.Findlay]

Does anyone know the weight of a VR4 Stock Fly Wheel ?
yeah man i weighed one on bathroom scales and it came to 8.5kg aproxx (hard to get exact on a analouge scale meant for measuring people)
but i did just pay the money for the flywheel so i should have it by end of next week i hope, ive gone for 11lb weight

[Kenneth]

Sounds about right. If I recall correctly, the whole clutch cover, friction plate and flywheel comes to ~15kg

[Adam.Findlay]

well today after alot of drama with getting the flywheel finished I have it here in my eager hands,
its awesome pretty much looks the same as the pro iida one from RHDjapan except it uses a actory ring gear, ie the teeth are not milled in the the flywheel itself.
I will add photos to my old thread of modifications as i have added a FMIC. more images to come when clutch gets instaled

[Kenneth]

how much weight saving over the original?

[Adam.Findlay]

havnt weighed it yet but a asked for 11pounds

[scott.mohekey]

It feels a fair bit lighter than the stock one.

[Adam.Findlay]

yeah i dont have a stock one to compare to but i will weigh them when i change them over