AYC gauge in centre clock

[apeman69]

Inspired by MarkSanne's "AYC extra (external LEDs) in a-pillar mod" (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47449) and bigsed's "It's Boost-a-clock" (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49337) threads but a little disheartened at the recent Eurospec RR day by tw5jim's "Wonky boost gauge in what used to be a clock" (only joking Jim, but it did give me quite a chuckle), I've finally got the bits I need to put a second standard AYC gauge in the centre clock area.
I got a high vis VR-4 dash clock thingy and a centre clock (the one that tells you the time, if it works!)
I chopped the high vis dash to bits and took the clock apart.
What I ended up with was the AYC gauge circuitry that I will be fitting into the spare clock I acquired. I got a spare clock just in case I damaged mine on removal or botched the job totally.
Anyway I know that there were some wiring problems with MarkSanne's LEDs but what I am intending to do is simply extent the circuit from the AYC gauge in the dash to a second AYC gauge in the clock.
I have thought about this and I think that all I will need to do is run a wire from each of the AYC gauge terminals to the respective one in the AYC gauge in the clock.
Can someone please confirm that my thinking on this is correct before I try to actually get at the AYC gauge circuitry within my dash in the car?
If so then I can wire the clock part and assemble the gauge within the clock (with a bit of modification to the clock fixings) in readiness for waking up one day feeling brave and hacking at my dashboard.
Thanks all.

Pics attached of the front and rear of the AYC gauge circuit removed from the donor dash and with the AYC 'graphic' attached and ready for fitting into the clock.

[apeman69]

Here's an idea of how it should look. I toyed with chopping the inside of the clock display apperture fixing so that the graphic 'AYC' was on display in the clock area and then thought that it's a lot of effort for no real gain. The AYC bars will be on show and it will look more stealthy without 'AYC' on show all the time. The lettering is a much brighter white than the AYC bars and you would be able to see it generally.
Sorry about the pics but it is difficult to get a good shot what with lighting, reflections etc.

[MarkSanne]

Oh I like this mod a LOT when it's done. I think your plan should work. I'll read this thread again tonight and refresh my memory on my own mod to see if I understand.

[apeman69]

I can't see why it shouldn't work because I'm just, effectively, extending the gauge circuits..... I think :dizzy2:

[Turbo_Steve]

That'll look great! I was thinking of doing something not dissimilar with coloured LEDs in the "clock buttons" holes (and moving the buttons elsewhere).

This looks pretty slick, though.

[apeman69]

Thanks for the kind words.
I've just spent the last 2 hours whittling away at the innards of the clock housing in order to enable fitment of the AYC gauge circuit (well a lot of that time was waiting for the dremel to charge in between chopping sessions).
Here's a couple of pics of the gauge fitted into the clock housing. I am surprised at exactly how good a fit it is once the whole available space has been opened up. AYC gauge should have been here in the first place with a roof mounted clock I reckon.
I haven't fixed the gauge in place yet (though there is little movement and it really only needs a bit of padding such as strategically placed double sided foam tape) as I intend to solder the wiring connections before fitting it in the clock for good.
The side of the circuit board hangs out of the right hand side of the clock housing by about an inch but this doesn't intrude on any of the other fittings I have for the clock and shroud. Hopefully there'll be nothing in the way of this protrusion when I get it in the car.
Can you get to the back of the dash clocks without removing the whole cluster? I know that taking the dash apart will mean the wiring process itself will be much easier but I only need to connect 4 wires to 4 screws. Has anyone had a go at anything dash-clock-cluster-related from underneath the steering wheel? I'll have a look myself at some point but if anyone knows it'll save me finding my torch.

[Confused]

Looking very good :)

Might have to steal this idea!

[elnevio]

It's upside-down! :upsidedow



/lol :D

[apeman69]

It's upside-down! :upsidedow
Trust me it isn't. I wrote 'TOP' on every piece of plastic with a permanent marker to make sure of that one! :quasi:

[Kryton]

Nicely done. Like it :)

[bigsed]

Nice work. I was thinking of doing AYC but opted for the boost clock in the end. There will be less and less "my clock doesnt work" threads around from now on I think!

[SGHOM]

Good work

So that's the A pillar sorted & the clock sorted .... Who's going to do the HUD where it will be most useful ? :kiss:

[apeman69]

I've got to get the wiring sorted next and I think I'll probably use USB cables. I've got loads of them from old mobile phones and I'll buy a USB extension cable for the female (or is it male?) connector so I can plug one into the other and cut the plugs off the other end of each cable. I'll solder the bare wires to ring terminals that will then be attached to the AYC circuitry using the four mounting screws that attach the gauge to the dash. I think that using this 'plug and socket' approach to wiring it up will make it a bit easier to test and/or change the wiring configuration should I mess it up.
Then I can test the thing to make sure it works and it's at this point that I'll find I've got the AYC gauge upside down, Nev.:smash:
I know I should have tested the wiring theory before chopping up the clock but I got a bit carried away yesterday morning when the two parcels arrived and I'm convinced it will work.
I'll update when I've made some progress (probably at the weekend) though I'm not looking forward to removing the dash from my car just to get at four little screws.:thinking:

[miller]

I think three big green neons across the length of the rear windscreen wired up to the AYC lights with a dark background tint would do just fine!!!

[apeman69]

Well it goes through the self-test when the ignition is on.
I'll go for a drive in a bit and find out for definite if the bars are upside down.:rolleyes4

[aboo]

Nice work. Looks a bit like KIT from knight rider/yes

Can you make it talk to you:jester:

[Geraint]

thats a fantastic modification :) very clever.

[apeman69]

I wish the Mrs thought the same. I picked her up from her parent's house on saturday night about an hour after I had completed the job. As is usual when she visits her parents, she was worse for ware due to the drink.
She said to me "You spent all that time on that. It's a black space where the clock used to be. The clock was useful. That doesn't even work." She proceeded to bang the dash board with her fist and then attempted to remove the clock forcibly before I went apesh!t. Apparently she thought a wire was not connected properly and was trying the old TV repair trick.
After a few muttered sentences from me she said "You spent all that time on that. It's just a black space. All that time so you can tell if you're going around a roundabout too fast?"
Given that I was completely sober and she was far from this, needless to say my enthusiasm and sense of pride from doing this modification took quite a sharp beating that evening.
She has since appologised and I have not yet let her forget about her drunken antics.
BTW the gauge works perfectly and as expected.

Anybody want to buy my original clock? In great condition and full working order.

[apeman69]

Nice work. Looks a bit like KIT from knight rider/yes
Can you make it talk to you:jester:
No, not needed as I've got a TWIT that talks to me. See above post.

[scott.mohekey]

An even cooler mod, which would retain the use of the clock, is to make the clock say COOL when the ayc is on, or something along those lines. You might be able to fit AYC1, AYC2, AYC3 in there.

Of course.. getting the clock to do this will be nigh on impossible.

[apeman69]

If you manipulate the signal that is going through the AYC gauge circuit in the appropriate manner for the particular application I'm sure you could make all sorts of things happen e.g. alternate lights or displays, sounds, whatever.
Miller's 'stupid' suggestion of big green neons in the back window is doable as long as you understand the relationship between the gauge signal and the input signal required for the neons. Simply put: AYC gauge light on = other linked device on. If thought out properly then all sorts of electronics, related to the car or AYC or not related at all, could be linked and activated by the output signal.
If, for instance, you had a Bart Simpson clock that said "COOL" then you could remove the circuitry, mount it somewhere and link it to the AYC so that when an AYC bar illuminates the signal is transferred to the Bart Simpson clock and activates it so that it does in fact say "COOL" or perhaps "EAT MY SHORTS" if you don't quite get it right. You'd need to understand the operating parameters of the Bart Simpson clock of course but I'm sure you get the idea.
Let your imaginations go and see what you can do.

[Turbo_Steve]

Your missus does have a vague point about the clock - It's clearly visibile to all the passengers from that location. Mine has raised the same objection - I can put what I like in the clock aperture, but it has to be able to tell the time on request.

[MarkSanne]

If you buy a decent radio I'll display the time. I've done this with a Pioneer 2DIN touchscreen/navsat/dvd/blablabla - thing. Excellent clock!

[Turbo_Steve]

-ahem- Decent double DIN headunit is £500+. That's a lot of wonga for a clock! :D :D :D

[Oblivion]

Thats pretty cool, my clock isnt working but seeing as I dont have AYC I'm outta luck having something similar lol. As for telling the time, well I've got a watch haha.

[scott.mohekey]

The display from this (http://14point7.com/SLC-DIY.php) wideband controller can be mounted remotely, and looks like it would fit in the clock perfectly.

It can also display boost and EGT, and im sure we could pester the developer to add time support.

[apeman69]

Now we're cookin'. Anyone want to buy my AYC in a clock? I fancy a go at the DIY wideband now.

[scott.mohekey]

Another member down here has already built one, and I have one on my workbench awaiting some free time. It should be noted that out of the box they won't work with evoscan, but they do have their own logging support and have 5 analog inputs as well as rpm, so may well be all that you'd need for some decent tuning.

[Turbo_Steve]

Ohhh that's a brilliant little thing!!! Time support and a bargraph display, and it'd be perfect!

[VR4Kaos]

so you gonna start making and sellin this then ?

[scott.mohekey]

Ohhh that's a brilliant little thing!!! Time support and a bargraph display, and it'd be perfect!

You could add a simple bar graph display by using one of those LED VU meters driven by the linear output of the wide band controller. Mount it above or below the 8.8.8.8 display that it comes with (if there's enough space).

[Turbo_Steve]

I've not seen the circuit - is there a linear drive line for the LED display, then?

[scott.mohekey]

It has a simulated narrow band output for the ecu, as well as a linear output to be used by an aftermarket ecu, an A/F gauge, external logger etc. It's a linear voltage range which could be mapped to a line of leds.

Alternatively, they have an OEM wide band controller that has an I2C interface exposing lamda, Ip, Ia, etc which could be read from a microcontroller that then drives one of these: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=710

Hmm.. I HAVE a few microcontrollers and one of those lcd displays.. I wonder if there's room on my TODO list for more?

[scott.mohekey]

Even cooler would be one of these: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=257

Mini touchscreen anyone?

[apeman69]

so you gonna start making and sellin this then ?
I've looked at the assembly guide... over 100 tiny components to solder. You can buy it already assembled then remove it from the case for mounting wherever. Think I'll have a proper look at this next week. :)

[scott.mohekey]

All of the stuff you need to solder is through hole and of a decent size. The pre made one is slightly different (smaller at least, not sure if its the same feature set).

[apeman69]

I've been after a wideband setup for a while and the only thing stopping me spending the best part of £300 on PLX stuff is the fact that I have a boost gauge located where I wanted it and can not imagine where I would be happy to have another generically styled round gauge. I hate gauge pods and A-pillar efforts.
I am excited about this kit and, strangely, it never occurred to me to research something with a more simple digital display.
Scott, you may have done me a huge favour in pointing this out.

I've e-mailed the dude about postage costs to the U.K and am waiting for a reply.

Before postage:-
The pre-assembled kit costs around £140 including the O2 sensor (just for AFR).
The DIY kit including O2 sensor is around £100 (this has more options such as boost and EGT display with additional sensors/components required and you need to assemble it yourself)
PLX SM-AFR with basic DM5 gauge and O2 sensor costs around £195.

I doubt I could chop up a DM5 gauge and get it to look as sexy or OEM as the simple digital display of the 14point7 unit, when mounted in the clock space.

Perhaps the 'black space' will soon be filled with something that is always on and changes.
AYC-in-a-clock your days could now be numbered!

[scott.mohekey]

I'm happy to have helped. As an aside, I'm looking into using the OEM kit he provides as well as an lcd display, a microcontroller, and a few sensors to make an all in one, fully customisable unit. I'm planning to have it possible to add gauges etc just like evoscan, with axis and ranges etc derived from simple equations (i.e. rpm might be freq(DigitalInput1)/60 assuming freq returns the number of input changes per second), all on a small lcd display with a couple of buttons for page navigation etc.

[scott.mohekey]

Should be fairly simple to hook up to the diag port and pull the same info as evoscan as well.

[apeman69]

Best of luck as it sounds like one of those jobs that will never get done but maybe that's just how it would be with me. For me it would be a bit like reinventing the wheel as I've got EvoScan and other software running on the car PC. I'm happy to use the readily available tools to give me this piece of information or that and, though I understand the ideal of wanting everything integrated as far as possible, I'm happy to work around the limitations of each system so long as I can get the data I require at the end of the day.
Horses for courses. I hope you develop your ideas and realise them. It will be a fulfilling achievement no doubt.

[scott.mohekey]

I've been thinking about something like this for some time.. gradually obtaining the various parts for it. I have a couple of long term projects like this. They get there in the end.

[apeman69]

Look what I made today. Can you spot the difference?

[Turbo_Steve]

Buttons went away? :)

[apeman69]

Sort of correct Steve. The button holes went away :) = more room for other gauges!

[Mark 4]

No, tell us.

[MarkSanne]

VR4 logo! Cool!

[Wodjno]

Sort of correct Steve. The button holes went away :) = more room for other gauges!

The answers here :upsidedow

[Nitephyre]

I like this idea, funnily enough I was thinking how to do this exact thing the other night driving home. Have you got any more pics? Was it difficult to hook up to the dash cluster?

[apeman69]

Very very simple to connect to dash. Remove dash (which isn't too difficult: there's a guide on here) and you can access the four screws that attach the AYC gauge to the dash clock housing. These mounting screws just happen to connect to the PCB for the AYC. Connect a wire to each of these mounting screws in the back of the dash (unscrew, connect wire, tighten one of the four screws at a time so the AYC gauge in the dash doesn't fall out) and connect each of these wires to the same screw in the donor AYC gauge that goes into the clock.
If you remove the dash clocks then it all becomes clear and very simple. The difficult part is getting the donor AYC gauge to fit into and attach to the clock mounting.
I was thinking of writing a guide but TBH I don't think many people would actually do it. For me it was a learning experience and a stepping stone to doing something more involved with the clock space and then another gauge-related project I have in mind.
I'll stick some more photos on here in a bit.

[apeman69]

A few more photos and a bit of babbling....

[chris g]

So do you have 2 AYC displays - dash and clock ?

[apeman69]

Yes, there's no way I'm going to butcher my dash!
I bought a donor dash cluster from a breaker and chopped that up.
From the donor dash I have used the AYC gauge (it is a separate unit screwed into the clocks housing so no real cutting required except for the matt black 'dial' graphic), the VR-4 logo, the tinted plexiglass: see post 42 above.
I also bought a donor clock so I could chop that too.
If it ended up botched then I still had my original clock to plug in and no modification to my own dash.

[apeman69]

I've been working on a few gauge ideas, amongst other things, over the last month and I'm at the point where I'm alsmost ready to wire one of them in to the car. I'll be adding three gauges altogether, at two different locations. I don't want to give much away until they're in the car and I can put some pics up.
What I intend to do is use the clock wiring (ground, illum, acc 12v, battery 12v) and I've (probably) got a bit carried away with making up a wiring loom that will split the clock wiring into four separate sets of connectors, one for each gauge and a spare for the future.
What I was hoping to do was take the clock wiring downwards and to somewhere behind the stereo/centre console for ease of access and where there should be a bit more space to play with.
When I had the dash clocks out for the AYC in the clock thingy I noticed that the clock wiring was accessible from a hole to the left side of behind the dash clocks. When I briefly looked under the passenger side centre tunnel panel I couldn't see any easy way of getting the clock wires down from the passenger side. Clearly I would rather just pull the clock wiring into a more usable position but the only definite option I have stumbled across, though I haven't removed the driver's side centre tunnel/stereo panel yet, is from behind the dash clocks which would involve a lot of messing about.
I don't want to use any old ground, illum, acc 12V connections as I think that what I've come up with (and using the, now defunct, clock wiring) will result in a cleaner solution that will only aid any future wiring follies behind the stereo.
Also, the existing wiring behind the stereo facia is quite complicated and bulky due to the fitting of the car PC.
Has anyone experience of accessing the clock wiring from behind the stereo area before I start ripping the whole of my dash out to figure it out?

[John TheAntique]

You are heading in the right direction. Just thread the clock wires down towards the drivers footwell. There is tons of room behind the panel directly in front of your left knee to hide all sorts of connectors, relays, wires etc I stuff mine in an old toilet roll centre to keep them all in one place and velcro it there so its easy to get at. All my gauges including the pillar one are run off the clock wireing. There is a large hole on the right where the cock was to enable you to do this. If you want to do something on the passenger side it is easy to knock a similar hole through on the left side in the clock space.

I'm doing something with my AYC display as well. I've just taken spur wires off from the ECU , see pics

[apeman69]

Cheers John. I've been driving around for a week with the glove box, clock and left panel off. Didn't want to take right panel off until I had enough time to do some fitting. Had the facia off tonight and ran out of daylight. I've got plenty of ideas just not enough continuous time to execute them. I learned from the PC install that planning is the key and the more info the better before tearing things up. These gauges are taking me too long to do and, with work and now the Skyline project I seem to be getting nowhere fast. I think a bit of prioritising is in order... along with less beer of an evening and thus a couple of early starts to the day! He says opening another beer at 1.36 am.

[John TheAntique]

You don't need to take any panels off. Its quite easy to thread through.

[apeman69]

For what I've got planned and with the phenomenal amount of cables and connectors (VGA, 8 USB, keyboard receiver, EvoScan,RCAs, plus the usual speakers/stereo gubbins blah blah) already tucked away, the more panels off the better! I have considered taking the whole dash out to do a proper job of it and this is after I spent a good 2 hours tidying and separating the existing cabling in readiness for the gauge installations.
After this I don't ever want to wire anything else up behind the dash of this car because it really is getting to the stage of being ridiculous.
I've even had to label each wire and connector.

[apeman69]

Finally got around to finishing this off, well... part 1 of 2 anyway.
The pictures don't do it justice. It looks really nice in the car and I'm pleased with the result.

Watch this space for my next gauge venture which is near completion. I just need a Little Mann to fit my wideband O2 sensor first.

[andyleaves]

that looks really nice now.
Top marks...

Just wish I had the guts to do something like this to mine.
"Caught myself trying to look at the AYC lights the other day, until wifey said your running out of bend!!!!" Doh!!!

[scott.mohekey]

That is top notch! I really like it.

[mattnz]

Very nice.

[Atik]

Thats excellent.

I must get around to doing something like this. I was on a nice drive last night when I looked down to see how many AYC bars I had, but couldnt see it as the steering wheel was in the way, and on a fast turn its simply scary to keep your eye away from the road!

[LouisC]

Finally got around to finishing this off, well... part 1 of 2 anyway.
The pictures don't do it justice. It looks really nice in the car and I'm pleased with the result.

Watch this space for my next gauge venture which is near completion. I just need a Little Mann to fit my wideband O2 sensor first.

it looks great /GJ and what kind of boost meter u use

[Geraint]

very impressive

[apeman69]

The boost gauge is a GlowShift digital blue.

[apeman69]

Well I finished my gauge ventures a couple of weeks ago but have only just got around to posting something. Operation of the wideband kit proved to be a bit problematic but the use of both narrow & wideband sensors sorted it all out.
I started off with this lot:-
Hmmmm.... bloody thing's wazzed one of my pics away. It was here yesterday when I posted this. I'm on the netbook at the mo and I'll shove the pic back on when I power up one of the PCs tomorrow.
38858

Which (not very quickly) turned into this:-
38859

Here's my preliminary test to make sure the gauges would power up correctly:-
38861

And here's a (not very good) night-time shot. It looks pretty good in the daytime and in real life! Yes, I managed to chop the bottom of the gauges off when taking the picture.
38860

[Turbo_Steve]

Hex-Display-Tastic!!!