Changing Steering wheel?

[I-S]

I have the galant service manual, and I have just bought a new steering wheel for the car.

The new wheel is an OEM one, but leather (rather than the unpleasant plastic of the standard GLS wheel). I believe that the airbag module should just swap across.

What should I be aware of? I'm wary about attempting this myself, handling the airbag module which is obviously an explosive device.

From the service manual, it looks as simple as unscrewing one screw, removing the module and undoing its connector, undoing a nut, removing wheel, replacing with new wheel, replace nut, replace connector, replace module, replace screw. What am I missing?

[Kieran]

That's pretty much it Issac. Make sure you disconnect the battery and leave the car alone for a minimum of 10 minutes before starting. This length of time is needed for the SRS system to be considered safe enough to disconnect, according to said service manual.

Cracking the steering wheel nut once you've got the bag out the way needs a fairly hefty wrench, and also there's the clock-spring to consider. This sits on the steering wheel shaft behind the main airbag unit and is the detonator for said unit. It *MUST* be kept in correct alignment to work correctly. So only take it off when you're ready and be very careful to realign it properly!

Also, if you're of a similar build to myself (About 6 feet but only 12.5st :$) then you'll do a lot of swearing trying to remove the steering wheel from the splined shaft. The service manual suggests to use a tool not unlike a hub puller. However, should you know of someone with a build like BDA or Ian, just ask them to do it! :-D

/EDIT:

I have some photographs of the removal of the unit from the VX... When I've got five, I'll bung 'em in a post and put it in the Member area :)

[Big Ian]

However, should you know of someone with a build like BDA or Ian, just ask them to do it! :-D

:evil2:
Yip... i'd have pulled the wheel off with one hand about 5 month's ago...
:headsc: but i think i'd need to use two hand's...see-as how i'm now 32 pound's lighter than the 18st6 i was back then :laugh:
(and all going well? i'm on the weigh bridge on monday an i'm looking to be under the 16st mark....then i'll start back pumping some iron)

[I-S]

I'm 5'7 and 8st.

Yeah, there is no 1 missing.

My understanding of the service manual is that the clock spring is "beneath" the wheel, and can be left alone if swapping the wheel?

[I-S]

The wheel just arrived, with the postman rousing me from bed... :furious3: Still, at least he was bearing gifts... :welcome:

Looks like it has never been used at all, ever. It looked grey in the photos, but is actually black, so the airbag cover will still match.

The instructions that come with it (6 sides A4, nice big diagrams) show that the clock spring can be left alone. All I need now is a torque wrench...

[I-S]

Well, operation now complete. Went to do it all on sunday, bought torque wrench and sockets, but didn't buy the extension I needed to do it, so I did it today.

All went well, except for one thing... The -ve battery connection is now loose. The nut has locked itself and won't budge in either direction. The nut and bolt turn as one, no matter what I try.

This loose connection is causing a slow idle, and if I put the air con on the car verges on stalling.

What can I do about this connection?

[Kieran]

Never goes quite according to plan does it?! :rolleyes5 :-D

If I remember correctly a 10mm spanner is used on the battery terminals. You're better off with a new nut and bolt, so get yourself an M10 bolt & nut (someone correct me of I'm wrong with the size).

To crack off the old one.... I believe the bolt is square headed. You may be able to get an adjustable spanner or set of molegrips around the head - which should lock the bolt and allow you to wind the (now useless) nut off. A good dose of WD-40 may help you here - spray a liberal amount on and allow it to penetrate.

If that doesn't work... I would maybe see if you can get (don't wince at the name!) a nut splitter, or a small hacksaw and cut the nut off of the bolt. Drastic, but a replacement will be a few pence at your local hardware shop.
A nut splitter essentially screws a blade into the side of the siezed nut and breaks it in two. However, this is more commonly used with age-old rusty nuts (oo-er!:$)

[I-S]

I tried holding it in pliers with a 10mm socket on the nut, having soaked it in GT85 (WD40 on steriods) and still no budge...

However, you've given me an idea. I can dremel the old one off and replace with a stainless M10 pairing.

The steering wheel was an interesting exercise. I thought that I wouldn't be able to do it at all because there was no cut-out on the plastic on the back of the new one for the cruise control lever. However, I realised that the old back would screw onto the new wheel with cruise control in place. In fact, the new wheel had a little locator tab for the cruise control which the old one didn't, so it went together better than new.

Once I have got the battery connection sorted, I will treat the new wheel to some autoglym leather cream to get it started on the right note.

[I-S]

All sorted now. Stopped at a garage near where I work (loads of guys from work get their MOTs done there, I will too), and they sorted it for me in about 5 minutes, and didn't even charge me a penny (which is why I will be getting MOT done there in a couple of weeks). Car stalled on first start up after the fix was applied, but it was fine all the way home, so I think it might have been the last throes of the problem sorting themselves out. Also verified operation of the cruise control on the way home, so I know that I didn't screw that up... haven't tried the horn yet, but fairly confident it should be fine.

I'm sure it seems to handle better with leather steering wheel.... :D