stereo wires

[Pugme]

ok youll have to bare with me on this one, and call me a twat afterwards if you like.

right the car came with no headunit, so i bought one of ebay and went on holiday, the night i came back, i was leaving 8 hours later for germany so as i couldnt get a wiring block thingy i decided to use a stanley knife!! :D

so anyway, i begin cutting wires and first the dash lights went out!!

next there didnt seem to be an obvious red and black!! god damn japs!

anyway i finally got the dash lights back and the headunit working!

so from memory i took the the headunit live and remote and connected to what i think is a positive, and the earth and handbrake cable to an earth, there was a blue wire, this is the wire that seemed to make the dash lights work when connected to power so i connected this into the live!!

i went out to my car earlier, iv not driven it in 4-5 days but the battery was dead, something is draining the battery!! if i rip the headunit out i will loose the dashlights!! lol

am i right in thinking the blue wire should be connected to an ignition live perhaps??

[GalantOnly]

Cut the factory wires?! :skull: /wall :thumbsdow :rolleyes3

The blue wire goes from the head unit to ACC power from ignition switch throught the fuse nr.6 in the cabin (10A) and nr.5 in the engine compartment (15A)

The dash light gone because of the blown fuse

[Nick Mann]

For future reference:

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6373

[Pugme]

lol, there is method to my madness :D

this headunit was and is just a temp measure as i couldnt do a 1000 mile trip to germany with no tunes!

i will be fitting a 8" HDMI screen which will be controlled by a hub and dolby 7.1 expansion unit in the boot so all speaker wires will run to the boot, all that will connect to the screen will be one video rca, 1 hdmi cable, power, neutral and remote to ignition.

the dash lights are now on but i fear something is continuously draining power!! lol

[Pugme]

ahhh from looking at the above thread, im gonna guess i should have the blue one going to an ignition feed so basically right now even tho the ignition is off and the dash lights are not on, they are continuously drawing power from the batter as it is basically connected to the batter :D

[Wodjno]

the dash lights are now on but i fear something is continuously draining power!! lolAre you sure it's not just a Naff battery ? It didn't look upto much when i saw it.. 1st thing i did when i got the present car and my 1st VR4, was get a decent battery.. /yes

Check the battery with a tester before you go looking for stuff wrong,that might not be there :seeking:

[Pugme]

i have an optima red top sat in the garage that was gonna be going in to run the install, doubt it will fit in standard tray, hmmm im sure i can strap it down somehow :)

will get it in, run the car round a bit, check the voltage then leave it a few days and check again. while im at it ill pull the stereo out tomorrow and see if it makes more sense now im not in a rush to catch a ferry!

if i cant solve it ill buy from someone breaking a leggy the wiring block from the stereo with 4" of cable left on and solder everything back how it should be :D

[Pugme]

ok iv done some investigating tonight, i will confirm (in my car at least) the big blue wire is not a ignition live. it generates no voltage with ignition either on or off. i brought home a volt meter to test this.

from my testing none of the cables supply an ignition live, right now my battery is sitting at 12.2 volts, i have fully disconnected the headunit wires apart from one wire, the wire i have left connected is the wire that is supposed to be connected to the permenant live, the other live wire should be connected to an ignition live which was previously also connected to permanent live!

the wiring block is however not plugged into the stereo.

the blue wire without a doubt is connected to the gauge and needles on the dash, without a live connection (which should really be an ignition live) made the dash does not illuminate.

none of this is a big deal, as said before all the wires were to not be used in the future install but it does however mean, sooner rather than later im gonna need to pull the dash apart and run an ignition live wire.

could anyone be so kind to link up a thread that shows how i take my dash apart :D incase i cant find it!! lol

[Nick Mann]

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3293

There should, without a doubt, be a switched (ignition) 12v feed to the stereo. Are you sure you haven't got a blown fuse somewhere?

[Pugme]

iv not checked fuses so maybe that is the case but everything else works fine, where would the fuse for the headunit be??

and nahe i wanna remove the surround from the ignition barrel as im just gonna do away with all the waire from the original headunit and start from scratch, all speaker wires were to be upgraded anyway, and other than that all you need to make a headunit work is live, ignition live and neutral.

a mate on the phone has just helped me realise why the blue wire would need a permanent live, because its also connected to the clock, but he doesnt realise how crap our clcoks are!! lol

so i will run a new ignition live, connect the blue wire to it, and the headunit.

the other thing is, in the thread link above that explains the wires, no neutral wire is mentioned! lol but i think if ound that to be the black and yello one possibly!!

[GalantOnly]

The dash light gone because of the blown fuse

100% BLOWN FUSE!!!

If you cut the wires with the knife, you will certanly short cut some wires! Unless you cut them one-by-one.../GJ

[Pugme]

?? but the dash lights still work, but only when the blue wire is connected to a live wire??

and yeah they were cut one by one

[Nick Mann]

If the fuse has blown for the blue wire, then supplying a 12v feed to it is effectively bypassing the fuse.

[Pugme]

just re read galantonlys post :p gonna go have a butchers and a fag :D

but can i ask where the fuses inside the car are?

[GalantOnly]

If the fuse has blown for the blue wire, then supplying a 12v feed to it is effectively bypassing the fuse.
:iagree: :iagree: :iagree:

Fuses that radio cares about:

In the cabin: the one in the middle of the top row, number four from right...
In the engine compartment: the one in the far left corner (when looking in the engine with hood open /yes)

[Nick Mann]

Inside the car they are behind the coin tray.

[GalantOnly]

Inside the car they are behind the coin tray.

Oh yes, sorry... Was about to say that :)

[Pugme]

thanks guys, off for a look now with my torch!

[Pugme]

engine bay one is intact, cant get my fat fingers into the cabin one, will get some pliars on the job tomorrow :D

if your right, rep will be given :drummer:

[GalantOnly]

engine bay one is intact, cant get my fat fingers into the cabin one, will get some pliars on the job tomorrow :D

if your right, rep will be given :drummer:

Fat fingers?! Even the thinnest fingers can't do the trick! /lol There's a tool for that purpose behind coin tray... The white one /yes

[Pugme]

rep given to both of ya, i now have a fully working headunit, if i can be arsed ill sort out the holding cage, but for now bits of fag packet will do the trick!! lol

best pm nutter and sort my other problem out now!!

thanks again lads

[tonyfazer]

lol, there is method to my madness :D

this headunit was and is just a temp measure as i couldnt do a 1000 mile trip to germany with no tunes!

i will be fitting a 8" HDMI screen which will be controlled by a hub and dolby 7.1 expansion unit in the boot so all speaker wires will run to the boot, all that will connect to the screen will be one video rca, 1 hdmi cable, power, neutral and remote to ignition.

the dash lights are now on but i fear something is continuously draining power!! lol



Think an mp3 player or ipod would have been easier dude lol