Bleed AYC using evoscan?

[Big Toe]

Has anyone done this yet? I haven't managed to connect with the AYC ECU yet, read something about disconnecting pin 9, is that correct? By using evoscan does this mean i don't need to lift the car, remove wheels and put in gear etc.?
If someone could write a guide to bleeding the AYC using Evoscan i would be very grateful. :thumbsup:
I have the 1.3 cable and Evoscan software.

[Ralliart1]

You would need to lift the car to get to bleeders.Kieran`s guide is great for bleeding the AYC,not to far ago I did it,it works perfect.

[foxdie]

Has anyone done this yet? I haven't managed to connect with the AYC ECU yet, read something about disconnecting pin 9, is that correct? By using evoscan does this mean i don't need to lift the car, remove wheels and put in gear etc.?
If someone could write a guide to bleeding the AYC using Evoscan i would be very grateful. :thumbsup:
I have the 1.3 cable and Evoscan software.

Yes, you'll need to remove Pin 9. Please see this post (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50418&highlight=obd) for more information.

[Big Toe]

Thanks guy, i have managed to connect to the AYC ECU by folding pin 9 out of the way and tried activating the pump which i could hear run.
I have only seen guides to bleeding manually(not using evoscan). If i've somehow missed a guide could you post a link? As for getting at the bleeds, my car is the standard height so i can get at them ok.
I have the following actuator options;

Air Bleeding
Oil level
Pump Drive
Op Check L
Op Check R
Control off

Air Bleeding looks obvious enough, but i was wondering about the Op checks. L and R = Left and Right? Could this be the what you do instead of turning the steering wheel as per the manual method of bleeding? Can anyone tell me the order to do all this in? I'm going to give it a go and i will let you know how i get on..... might wait for more info before i run the car.

[PaddyB]

I seem to recall Beastlee having a stab at this - give him a shout, he may be able to help.

[eyeballprawn]

Yes it works fine with Evoscan, done it a few times now.

[PaddyB]

How - do tell please ?!

[Big Toe]

Sorry for the delay, i ordered the wrong pressure switch and had to wait for the new one.
I downloaded a workshop manual for an evo 6 and followed the bleeding instructions in that. Here they are:

BLEEDING
1. Lift up the vehicle. 2. Connect the MUT-II to the 16-pin diagnosis connector.
Caution Before connecting or disconnecting the MUT-II, always turn off the ignition switch.
3. Turn on the ignition switch. 4. Operate the MUT-II (Item No.10) to activate the hydraulic
unit forcibly.
NOTE (1) The forced activation (air bleeding mode) will be
automatically canceled after 5 minutes operation. It can also be canceled forcibly by operating the clear key on the MUT-II.
(2) While this function is being disabled by the fail-safe function, the forced activation of the hydraulic unit can not be executed.
5. Remove the cap of the left bleeder screw on the torque transfer differential and connect a vinyl hose.
6. Gradually turn the steering wheel clockwise from the straight-ahead position. At this time, loosen the left bleeder screw and check that fluid is discharged with air.
7. After air has been completely discharged, tighten the bleeder screw.
Caution While the system is being bled of air, add fluid as necessary to ensure that it is left in the oil reservoir during the entire procedure.
8. Repeat steps (6) and (7) two to three times until no air bubbles are recognized in the fluid that comes out. Then, tighten the bleeder screw to the specified torque.
Tightening torque: 9 Nm
9. Perform steps (5) through (8) for the right bleeder screw. Note, however, that the steering wheel should be turned counterclockwise.
10. After the system has been completely bled of air, check for the fluid level. (Refer to P.27-33.)
Caution If the system is not completely bled of air, the hydraulic unit could generate noise, degrading pump durability.

Where it talks about activating item 10 on the MUT II just activate the air bleeding actuator on evoscan. You dont need to run the pump separately, it will run intermittently when you activate the air bleeding actuator. No other actuators are needed for bleeding. The ops checks are for testing the hydraulic pressure from the pump and require a pressure gauge to be attached to the pump. I didnt do the ops check but i can post the instuctions for that if anyone wants.
I have started the car but not driven it yet. I dont expect any problems unless i havent bleed it long enough but if i do have trouble i will let you know asap.

[Piers1989]

Sorry for the mega necro guys.

Been reading through threads to find out why I cant communicate with my AYC ECU.
Most info found here: http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?50418-OBD-port-pinout/page3&highlight=obd

I have the OpenPort 2.0 and no pins remove from the car or interface.

In the before mentioned thread Foxdie said that he was told with OpenPort 2.0 there's no need to remove Pin 9, but I can't get any response from anything other than EFI.

I just had my AYC pump refurbished and the garage has put it back on but I need to bleed it (after I put the original Mitsubishi switch back in as I'm still getting red light with the adjustable switch and Hockley Motorsport did mention the switch didn't work as intended).

Anyone got any up-to-date advice?

[Grid]

Try initiating EFI logging, stopping it, then try initiating AYC logging, finally move on to the AYC actuators. This sometimes "wakes up" the AYC ECU.

If that doesn't work hardwiring the pump with a 12V source is dead easy. It requires dropping the pump though as if for the switch replacement procedure, and in fact when the pump is in the vertical position this helps bleeding immensely. I refurbished my pump myself, and found that all it takes is to simultaneously apply 12V to the motor connector, proportioning valve connector and one of the directional valve connectors (never both at the same time). As long as you don't overdo it and only apply voltage a few seconds at a time you should be fine. In fact with the pump in vertical position it only takes a few seconds to bleed the pump itself and then maybe 5-10s for each of the directional valves to bleed the circuit to the diff.

When I reinstalled my refurbished pump I bled it in about 30s flat with the pump in vertical position and using Evoscan, but I did more or less the same on the bench before with hardwiring.

[Piers1989]

Thanks for that Grid.

After much perseverance I was able to get it to connect. Closing and reopening EvoScan oddly seemed to have the most effect.

I can now see that the red light is still coming on for fault 82 (pump) being triggered I assume by my dodgy third party pressure switch reading "1" when the car is off or on or pressurised.
I assume in my PFL it should read "0" once pressurised?

I still have the original Mitsubishi one so I'll look at swapping that out.

For actually bleeding the system - my garage disconnected the AYC pump and shipped it off for refurb, it was then reinstalled and I assume empty when returned. I guess that means there will be a fair bit to bleed?
Is it the process of opening 1 bleed valve on the diff, running the pump actuator in evoscan, waiting for fluid to start to come out then repeat with other bleed valve - or is that process only needed if the diff has been flushed?

I guess since there is a "reservoir" for this stuff maybe if I just tip the pump up and run it bubbles will get expelled and rise to the highest point - the reservoir?

[Grid]

Please fit the original switch back, the original switch operates at a much higher pressure necessary for correct diff operation.
The pump was probably shipped full of air so needs to be bled yes.
The only thing you need to do from evoscan is to use the Pump Drive actuator to bleed the pump (it self-bleeds) and then the Op Check L and R to bleed the lines to the diff while you have some clear hose on the diff bleed nipples attached. You should see fluid coming out and not air bubbles. Make sure to check the AYC reservoir level at all times since the bleeding operation consumes fluid and if the pump sucks in air from the reservoir you are back to square one. Also be ready to stop the Op Check actuators in Evoscan, they operate for quite some time, much longer than what is needed for the bleeding.
The pump will not bleed while it's off, regardless of position. But it bleeds in mere seconds if attached to a full reservoir and in vertical position. Takes much longer in horizontal position.

With the pump in vertical position (which I highly recommend) you literally only need to use each actuator once and you're done.

[Piers1989]

No luck so far!

I put my original switch back in and it still reads 1 all the time.

I tried the pump drive actuator with it in vertical position and it did run but not for very long, maybe 3 seconds or so. Did it a couple of times (I assume this should also pressurise the accumulator?) and then did logging and it was still reading 1.
The DTC error doesn't come on till driving so I went for a quick drive around the estate and it came on sure enough. After this when I tell Evoscan to activate the actuators (tried turning car off etc) it now says "waiting for actuator" on 4 or 5 lines after "connected to ECU" then "complete" but it never goes green or starts the pump!
The old switch did have some nice red fluid in the bottom of it (though there didn't seem to be any pressure when I removed it).

Does all the above point to there still being air in the pump?

[Piers1989]

Update:
I checked the reservoir (the garage told me they filled the "system" but I didn't give them the guide on the job so guessing they didn't touch the reservoir) and it was dry.
Bought some SP3 atf and topped it up (about .75 litre) and ran the pump drive and bleeding a few times along with oil level and it took a tiny bit in but still did not pressurise.
I then turned the car on with my laptop logging and could hear the pump once I started driving. The sound changed and after a couple of seconds the pressure switch went to 0!
I checked the reservoir and it was no longer above max (I overfilled it initially) and it was bubbling a bit after I started the car again.
I re ran the pump drive and it stopped very fast and successfully pressurised the system.

Taken it for a spin and it seems to be working.
Next time it's on a lift I'll get the diff bleed screws cracked but I don't even have a jack so can't get to those!

[Grid]

Great! Well if there was air in the system that needed bleeding you will get an AYC light sooner or later. Good to crack those bleed nipples and do the procedure when you have the opportunity, but otherwise if there is no AYC light I wouldn't worry about it too much

[Confused]

Dangers of using a garage which doesn't know the VR-4 :(

But, glad you got it sorted in the end :)

[Piers1989]

Indeed, the garage I use I normally give them the articles and guides from here.

Unfortunately without going to Durham there isn't really anywhere up here that does know it, and working 6 days a week it isn't really an option to go there.

That said with the knowledge I have from this forum and the OpenPort 2 + EvoScan, we can get just about anything accomplished with a competent mechanic and some instruction.