Chrome Hard Piping Kit

[low_vr4]

Have just bought a chrome hard piping kit and have just realized that i will not be able to keep the factory air box (duh!) so will probably sell it on. It is the full kit from the back of the engine bay to intercooler inlet and outlet. Will post pic on monday

[vr4drifta]

any pics mate.

[low_vr4]

will post on monday mate when got camera

[exevoowner]

amesh it would cost you more to ship it over than buy it

[Colin Wiltshire]

Not jealous,

[low_vr4]

Not jealous, Not a fan?

[Colin Wiltshire]

OOh I am, just pretending not to be jealous, as I am really. It's what I want for mine.

[Kenneth]

Pictures please. Am interested :)

[low_vr4]

Pictures up tomorrow guys

[low_vr4]

47573

Heres a pic guys, brand new never been on a car. All silicon joiners and T clamps. Just after offers atm. cheers guys

[Kenneth]

That doesn't look like it'll replace the pre-turbo pipe work Mike. You should be fine to use that and still retain the factory airbox :)

[low_vr4]

If i can still retain the factory airbox then ill be over the moon. Im still not sure which pipe goes where but im guessing the pipe on the left with the bov outlet is the part that would interfere with the factory airbox?

[Kenneth]

It may do, but it looks to be shaped correctly to bend around it as the standard flexible hose does.

I would suggest that you fit up that side of the kit first to determine whether or not it fits.

[Oggie]

47573

Heres a pic guys, brand new never been on a car. All silicon joiners and T clamps. Just after offers atm. cheers guys

whats in your engine bay right now? any AM piping?

[Gly]

looks like the same y pipe that connects the turbos i got, the fitment was absolutely shocking, and the flanges were machined wrong (streetbitz)
id be checking the fitment of the lot!

[low_vr4]

Aww damn, maybe i will sell it on. Is it this one?

http://streetbitz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=109

[low_vr4]

whats in your engine bay right now? any AM piping?

One chrome pipe going from the rear turbo to the y pipe

[thfelipeth]

a hammer will fix that.. got the same kit a couple of years ago

[Gly]

yep, thats the one,, the flanges that go into the turbo outlets are machined wrong,
and does'nt hold the sealing ring nicely (sits very loose)..
and the overall fitment is poor imo, fouled on the clutch master on mine aswell

[roryfromnz]

Wow love the chrome work, id love to get soemthing like this for mine. Any suggestions/costs?

[low_vr4]

Id suggest shipping a cusco or HKS? kit over from japan if you could get one for a reasonable price. From what I have been told the one i bought doesnt fit too well thus it is still sitting in my garage. The one i have ^ as above retails for $599

[roryfromnz]

Hmm I wonder what would need to be modified in order for your kit to be fitted.. What would you sell your kit for?

[low_vr4]

When i have the time im going to get someone to have a look at it. If i do sell it will probably be for around $350-400

[roryfromnz]

Thats not too bad a price, id love to get hold of something like this if not your kit. :-) Do you have any suggestions for people in Auckland that could make something like this? I also have a Apexi Boot Controller and Gizmo CamFC that I need to have fitted.. hmm not to mention getting the exhaust upgraded to 3inch right through. What have you had done to your little beast?

[low_vr4]

Either Kenneth, Gly or Ryan would be the ones to get in touch with because they also live in Auckland so will know the places to take your car (or perhaps could do it themselves?). Most of my mods were done by the previous owner, i've done nothing really. But mine has:

Brembos front and rear
Slotted rotors
Evo 7 Wheels
Soon to be installed Tein's
Greddy EBC
Greddy FMIC
Stainless 3 inch full exhaust including down pipes into fujitsubo legalis Type R evolution muffler
Sard r2d2 bov
K&N Filter
High flow cat, boost gauge, black leather, evo 5 steering wheel etc etc

[roryfromnz]

Awesome sounds like it would go like the clappers

Some mods on mine were done by previous owner too but ive done alot of the "Performance mods"

Slotted Rotors,
Tein Adj
Front Mount IC
2.5inch exchaust
Alloy Radiator (Old one rusted and cracked)
cold air induction
battery in boot
Gauges galore.. haha
Love to have my boost controller fitted and AFC controller.. I think i need to get a boost cut defencer and Sard Fuel Pressure reg done. That will help it.. i hit a boost cut today playing around with a manual boost increase.

Ive also taken the honeycomb out of the MAF.. .. im abit of a hack that way.. haha owell seemed to make it run alittle leaner.. Would love the hard pipe kit you have tho!

[low_vr4]

Nice, should put it on the dyno and see how it goes. From what i have been told a hard piping kit will make the turbo spooling sound twice as loud as it is normally and that boost kicks in earlier. You can do a cheap hard piping kit by putting cable ties all around the factory soft piping to stop them expanding under boost. Sometimes hard piping kits will pop up on trademe but like most big brand aftermarket parts for gen 8 VR4's, its rare.

[Kenneth]

Hi Rory and welcome to Club VR-4

You need a new MAF. The honeycomb (well, more of a grid actually) is essential in ensuring that the MAF reads correctly. There is a 1999 VR-4 at Pick a Part Takanini which might have one still.

From your pictures, your cold air induction is actually warm air induction. I tuned a car which had a cold air feed which went to a closed in box (and air feed that went through the panel below and to the fog light recess) just behind the passenger headlight. It showed higher intake temps than a car running the standard intake (Same day, 15minutes apart which was the time to change cars). The million dollar question is whether the air flow is any better. The dyno day should tell that though as I have a standard intake and others (specifically Gly, who I am sure is as interested in my dyno result as I am in his ;) ) do not.

Better value for money would be to sell the AFC and Gizmo CamFC and buy a flashable ECU. Unfortunately they are getting expensive so might cost between $300 and $500 NZ but will be well worth it since you can tune out fuel (boost) cut, remap fuel and ignition etc. (Also, do a search for "Kenneth's ECU Mods", minus the quotes of course.)

You don't need a fuel regulator unless you have installed a big fuel pump.

Other than that, it sounds like you have some nice mods. Where abouts in Auckland are you? (should probably quote this and put it in your other thread... a bit off topic here really)


Awesome sounds like it would go like the clappers

Some mods on mine were done by previous owner too but ive done alot of the "Performance mods"

Slotted Rotors,
Tein Adj
Front Mount IC
2.5inch exchaust
Alloy Radiator (Old one rusted and cracked)
cold air induction
battery in boot
Gauges galore.. haha
Love to have my boost controller fitted and AFC controller.. I think i need to get a boost cut defencer and Sard Fuel Pressure reg done. That will help it.. i hit a boost cut today playing around with a manual boost increase.

Ive also taken the honeycomb out of the MAF.. .. im abit of a hack that way.. haha owell seemed to make it run alittle leaner.. Would love the hard pipe kit you have tho!

[Gly]

what kenneth said, with the development of ecu flashing on the later (late 98 and newer ecus) 7202F and 7203 factory chip
things like FCDs/AFCs have become redundant and just a waste of $$

get a tunable ecu (direct plug in) and you'll be right,
(im running one of kens tuned roms, no fuel/boost cut extended fuel and ignition maps, launch control etc.)

stock fuel pump is at its limit approx 190kw (and you'll only need to do a FPR when you go to a stonger pump)
and the injectors at 225kw

also replace the maf, it will never read right with the honey-come gone,
and will lead to tuning issues.

also clutch wise, budget around $1500 when it comes to replacing it,
the stock one wont last long if you like to boost.

and the rear diff (AYC) wont last long if you like to launch. (im on my 4th? around 1 per year of ownership)

[low_vr4]

These cars don't take well to being thrashed

[roryfromnz]

Awesome thanks heaps for the info both of you. Im living in Devonport in Auckland.
Im pretty sure i still have the honeycomb for the MAF so can always put that back in.. i save everything i take off the car incase i ever need to do just that..! :-D

As for the added extras, i had read abit about the programmable ECU's and as I suspected the 96 ECU isnt programmable?? What year should i be looking for? Id LOVE to get my hands on a modded ECU!!
Great stuff on the pump, i saw a while back the Walbro intank pump is a good replacement.. is that what you have in your VR's?

I dont like to Launch, and Im not one for thrashing my VR as ive had turbo cars in the past that havnt handled that too well...
I must admit im really happy with my car tho.. best thing ive ever bought!! And am looking forwards to getting a little more power than factory..
Maybe one day when i win the lotto ill look at putting TD04's on it.. haha

[roryfromnz]

Oh and sorry for hijacking your post Mike.. :-/ thanks heaps for the info on the pipes. Id be interested in getting someone to make some up one day. Just add it to the list i guess! As for the Dyno, there is supposed to be a dyno day in Auckland soon yes?

[Gly]

i use a Walbro, kenneth uses a TRE?

a 96 ecu isnt programmable, they didnt come with the right ecu till late 98.
and there was the change over period so its still luck of the draw for that year,

if the ecu is in a metal box, its a definite no.

plastic box and your heading in the right direction

[Kenneth]

Metal box ECU is programmable, you just need to buy something extra beyond the open port 2.0 device. It is quite expensive though and as such I haven't gone there. All my ECU work has been with the plastic case 7202 and 7203 chips.

Yep, I run a TRE (walbro clone) pump. I use the standard FPR though.

VR-4s don't mind being thrashed, it is just a few components which, once they have aged, require proper maintenance if you don't want them to break. Diffs with Aluminium casings are always going to be problematic unless you ensure the bearing preload is sufficient for what you are doing. Case bolt upgrades etc are a good way to do that (as well as replacing the bearings)

[roryfromnz]

If i was to get a TRE or Walbro pump and fitted it would i notice any difference in power or will it just be for when i get the modded ECU?

[aboo]

If i was to get a TRE or Walbro pump and fitted it would i notice any difference in power or will it just be for when i get the modded ECU?You wont notice any difference unless you standard pump is on its way out but will give you better flow when tuning.

[roryfromnz]

Sweet thats all good.. im going to pick up one of those in the next few days... then i have to find a facelift ECU! They are like gold.. i havnt come across any yet.. grr

[low_vr4]

Sweet thats all good.. im going to pick up one of those in the next few days... then i have to find a facelift ECU! They are like gold.. i havnt come across any yet.. grr

I have one sitting in my garage, the previous owner said it had a cold start issue so he replaced it with another one. Might be able to be tuned. Not sure

[roryfromnz]

HAHA What thats awesome, do you happen to have 2 td04's sitting round aswell?? How much would you take for the ECU? Is it from the facelift model?

[low_vr4]

HAHA What thats awesome, do you happen to have 2 td04's sitting round aswell?? How much would you take for the ECU? Is it from the facelift model?

I wish haha. Not sure what it would be worth. Anyone???

[Gly]

williams old ecu had an electrical issue which wasnt resolved even after being sent off to be repaired. so not worth anything really unless it can be fixed.