Universal Trip Computer FAQ [Archive]

swinks

08-09-2011, 06:26 PM

Hi all.
Following other thread I decided to clarify few things.
The story is...
Few weeks befor my trip to Poland I got in touch with manufactures of co called Universal Trip Computer. It's a little and simple gizzmo dedicated for cars without some features like fuel usage, etc. Very popular along Polish Galant 8th gen users. Bloke who makes UKPs is also member of Polish Mitsubishi forum (his nick "kaczart").
So, mine idea was to modify UKP and make it more usable for vr4 vehicles. That involved changes to software and hardware, setup of new display, etc. New features would be: wideband afr, map sensor boost/vacuum, etc. readings, also English language and imperial units version.
Whilst in being in PL I got two examples of beta version UKP for tests. Well, so far I did managed to burnt one trying to test whilst being in hurry.
At the moment I did approached following problems:
1. VSS signal.
There may be a problem with reading vss signal in vehcles with delimiter or km to miles converter. I got that problem whilst testing, and soon I'll test UKP taking signal directly from gearbox. We'll see.
2. Wideband signal reading.
Reading from analog 0-5v is nice and steady, but in whole range too hight 1.5 afr. Hopefully it's just down to rescaling soft. So far tested only with Innovate LC-1, don't know how it will work with other makes, i.e. PLX.
3. Map sensor reading. That's down to used equation. Most common used map sensors are made by Apexi or Greddy. Unfortunatelly for me I have AEM map sensor which is working with different equation. Anyway, we will consider to make in software also customer defined 0-5v signal from map sensor.
As you see there is still lots of work outstanding before stable product will be released (version 2.0 onwards). Unfortunately for me I'm very busy at the moment after being 5 weeks away. Hopefully I get back to testing next week.
Once all tests done, there will be possible of arranged group buy with nice discount.

So far, there is stable version 1.0 of UKP, here is description:
Recent features:
- vehicle speed (km/h)
• peak fuel consumption ( l/h and l/100km),
• average fuel consumption (l/100km),
• odo (from fuelling/reset),
• amount fuel left in tank,
• approx. distance to fuelling,
• independent trip calculator
• lpg option
• date and time,
• temperature inside and outside vehicle,
• temperature input for user (oil, coolant, engine block, etc,) 0-5V
• acceleration measure (i.e. 0-100 km/h, 60-120 km/h),
• narrowband lambda and graph (0-1V and 0-5V),
• radiator fan status monitor (on/off)
• peak temperature warning (i.e. oil, coolant, etc.) defined by user
• personalized welcome screen
• PC communication via interface USB (programming trip computer from PC level)

Technical data:
• power: +12V DC (range +9… +16V),
• peak power (LCD , illumination, sensors, etc): max 250mA,
• sleep power: max 55mA,
• working temperature: -40C…+80C,
• working temperature LCD: -20C…+70C (recommended +10C…+40C),
• temp sensors spectrum: -40C…+120C, tolerance +/- 0.1C,
• vehicle speed tolerance: +/- 1 km/h (callibration with GPS),
• acceleration measure tolerance: +/- 0.1s,
• tolerance of fuel consumption measure: 1% (after user callibration),
• tolerance of fuel consumption peak measure: average from 1st, 2nd or 3rd last second (user choice),
• o2 sensor probing frequency: 50Hz,

Dimensions of UKP:

· wide: 6,5 cm,
· length: 9,0 cm,
· height: 2,0 cm.

Display dimensions:

· PCB wide: 8,0 cm,
· PCB length: 3,6 cm,
· LCD wide: 6,5 cm,
· LCD height: 1,8 cm.

Links to actual website of product:
http://www.telwis.pl/universal-trip-computer-utcomp-p-119.html?language=en

Link to Polish Mitsubishi forum discussion and few tips how to fit into Galant (page 43):
http://forum.mitsumaniaki.pl/viewtopic.php?t=14477&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=630
And here (page 73 and 74):
http://forum.mitsumaniaki.pl/viewtopic.php?t=27978&start=1095

And here mine beta version:
4815048149

adaxo

08-09-2011, 07:01 PM

As said in other thread, deffo interested in this little bit of kit. Any ETA of complete running 2.0 ver??

foxdie

08-09-2011, 09:12 PM

Just bought 2 of these for myself and Atik earlier today to build into a clock :)

Edit: Just realised Swinks was offering this service already, nm :)

Davezj

08-09-2011, 09:25 PM

hi Tomazs,
i will hve one of these. do you know what the final cost would be.
it is a nice gadget.

swinks

09-09-2011, 07:49 AM

Just bought 2 of these for myself and Atik earlier today to build into a clock :)

Edit: Just realised Swinks was offering this service already, nm :)

Not exactly Jason.
Kaczart asked me to test new features on vr4's and in a future to provide help for his customers because he's not keen on performance cars and doesn't speak English (translation of pdf manual can be problematic).

swinks

09-09-2011, 07:52 AM

hi Tomazs,
i will hve one of these. do you know what the final cost would be.
it is a nice gadget.
It will cost the same as stated on his website. The only difference is potential group buy. We got some discount in Polish forum. Also it will help with shipping, because so far shipping abroad rates are quite high in Poland.

foxdie

09-09-2011, 08:45 AM

Oh okay, do you mind us importing them and pre-installing them in clock units for VR-4 owners?

swinks

09-09-2011, 10:31 AM

Not at all, but you have to consider still outstanding issues mentioned above. I'd be happy if you spend some time to make sure that any wideband input will work and the same with map sensor input.
Also, vss signal to sort out.
Those issues wouldn't be a problem for Galants n/a. The don't need wideband or boost display, also EUDM vehicles are not messed with conversion mph/kmph or delimiting. So new 2.0 verision of UKP should work perfect with Galant n/a.

Atik

09-09-2011, 10:41 AM

Swinks / Jason,

If there is an issue with the VSS on a car fitted with a KMH/MPH convertor, will the display still show a speed reading in KMH or does it get completely confused?
I personally wouldnt have an issue with the unit displaying KMH readings as I still have a HUGE speedometer to keep an eye on when I'm driving. Its the rest of the readings I'd like to get displayed.

swinks

09-09-2011, 11:08 AM

No Atik.
Problem is with impulses read from vss. It doesn't or does but faulty counts impulses, so displayed speed is nil or completely mad. That's also important to calibrate unit in first step. It's nothing to do with displaying km or miles, it can be done in both manners.
Kaczart suggested to check signal on ecu vss by osciloscope, because it may be due to different signal level (state high and state low) with JDM cars, then some changes to hardware are needed. IMO, it down to mess with different fitting of converters or delimiters. Those gizzmos may disrupt signal. In my case once UKP fitted whilst calibration it counted only 14 speed impulses per 4 miles road distance, obviously wrong.

Atik

09-09-2011, 11:15 AM

Ok, I see. What about taking the speed reading from the speedo convertor after the converter. In most cars, that is behind the instrument panel.

Davezj

09-09-2011, 01:15 PM

i have a couple of osciloscopes and if need i can do some measurements if it helps. i have a small hand held one i use in the car and beck one.

just let me know what you want measuring.

Davezj

09-09-2011, 01:22 PM

you could put the VSS signal through a buffer with the correct high/low level voltage on the output.

you would be effectively tapping in to the existing signal and just changing the switching levels so the gadget can read it.
this would have no effect on the existing car electrics and it would not matter what speedo converter you had fitted as it would change all the switch point to the same readable level on the buffers output.
that is assuming it is a signal level issue.

jahooli

10-09-2011, 01:14 PM

I would be interested in one of these pre installed into the clock. What would be the price pre installed?

swinks

10-09-2011, 02:34 PM

I think it's very easy DIY, need to check few stores (B&Q, Homebase etc.) and once find ingridents I'll do guide for DIY. Anyway, it took me 2 hours and cost me 15 pounds. Otherwise I can do it for you, but need a clock and purchased UKP. Give me PM.

jahooli

10-09-2011, 02:38 PM

Are these units ready, fully working?

swinks

10-09-2011, 03:45 PM

With purchase you will receive:
- lcd display with pcb board (black and white display optional)
- UKP computer itself
- 26 pin connector with wires
- 40 pin data cable connecting lcd with UKP
- usb cable (optional)
It's down to you to connect everything together and assemble.

swinks

10-09-2011, 04:20 PM

Here's what you get in package:
48194

jahooli

11-09-2011, 02:30 PM

you still having the issues above re speed reading etc?

swinks

11-09-2011, 09:38 PM

Well, still... /pan
But it's because I haven't tried yet since first and last attempt which was 4 weeks ago. I've found my converter and delimiter setup very dogy and didn't want to mess up before my journey around Austrian and Swiss Apls so I've put project on hold being too busy with other things.

jahooli

11-09-2011, 09:49 PM

good stuff, ill keep watching the thread for developments.
thanks

lateshow

13-09-2011, 02:00 PM

just got mail from poland, the ecupinout says that VSS pin isn't used, how queer. But 10C for speed and 1A for fuel ??

lateshow

13-09-2011, 03:05 PM

swinks: do you still have the same problem +
with AFR ratio, I think that is due to different ground level. You should get ground signal from the same place as the lambda set gets it. Only I have that problem that my PLX ets the signal from ecu's sensor ground, I cant use sensor ground for the UTCOMP unit or can I

foxdie

13-09-2011, 04:35 PM

Mine and Atiks arrived today :)

If Swinks is going to pursue selling pre-installed kits to the club then naturally we won't, if not then once the issues have been fixed we'll import, pre-assemble and offer installation services to club members :thumbsup:

swinks

13-09-2011, 09:44 PM

Jason... you know... :iloveyou:
I'm happy if you do sets for a club members. It's not a monopoly or anything that sort whatsoever.

Just made you aware of few issues you may face, and any other CVR4 member, after purchase and installing into vr4 vehicle. I'm expecting delivery of replacement UKP soon, so I will do some work on trying different sets and other options.

foxdie

13-09-2011, 09:53 PM

I totally agree, myself and Atik are only in it to help our fellow club members...

If you wanna take lead, you know you'll have our backing :)

swinks

20-09-2011, 10:04 PM

Right... update.
Good news guys! It's running smooth! /Banana
Video soon to follow. I need passenger to make video and for a next few days she works 12hrs shifts...:lipseal

There are few issue you must be aware tho...:
1. Mentioned vss signal.
The only guaranteed way is to take vss signal off the gearbox. The is 3-pin black connector on the box, somewhere under throttle body. There are 3 wires:
- black
- black/white
- white/green
Signal is white/green. You splice into that wire.
2. Wideband AFR
For those with Innovate wideband stuff equation is:
AFR = 3.01*U + 7.35
where a=3.01 and b=7.35
Anyone with other make wideband analog output needs to find out equation formule from manufacturer or searching web.
3. Vacuum/boost MAP sensor
Remember, you have to flash UKP with equation formula for BAR. Later, UKP can switch display between bar or psi, but you HAVE TO put equation in bar. There are lots of equations written for different map sensors in psi or kpa so you will need to convert them to bar.
I have got AEM map sensor so mine equation formula was:
BAR = 0.86*U - 1.43
where a=0.86 and b=-1.43

That's all.

Just remember about first calibration. That's because default settings for vss are different that actual one from VR4.
For example: vss factor default is 0.200 meters/impulse where actual is close to 0.400 (mine was 0.398). That gives you false speed readings.
The same with injector default factor (liters/second) which is different that actual one.

Ohhh... and please insulate any not used wires from 24-pin connector. Some of them have either +5V or +12V output so any contact with chassis ground and your UKP is burnt.

adaxo

20-09-2011, 10:15 PM

Good job Tomasz, I've just sing in for a GB from mitsumaniaki.pl, UKP should be with me within few weeks (hopefully)

So far I find few very helpful guides how to fit that kit:

- here is one on ozvr4, is not exact the same kit (probably previous ver) but is give us some ideas

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?10379-How-To-Install-Your-Dodgy-Clock-Replacement-Trip-Computer.

- here is foto story from Spiderek (miitsumaniaki.pl)

http://www.spiderek.za.pl/galeria/7.html

Davezj

20-09-2011, 10:31 PM

Tomasz do i just place an order through the link on the first post or do you want to do some kind of group buy.

i take it the price on the web site is US dollors $89

swinks

20-09-2011, 10:31 PM

Oh.. c'mmon Adam. Fitting into clock bay is a dead easy. Need to search b&q for one "ingredient" that make it easy to make black display shroud (got mine from Polish Castorama DIY store)

swinks

20-09-2011, 10:35 PM

No, Dave.
I was proposing GB due to quite high shipping costs. Anyone can do organize one.
Only reliable shipping (EMS company) is 100 PLN alone, regardless how many UKP we buy, oh... well, let's say up to 15. Typical shipping via Polish Mail service is not reliable and kaczart reported quite often parcels with UKP went missing when shipped abroad.

Davezj

20-09-2011, 10:45 PM

adaxo

20-09-2011, 11:23 PM

Oh.. c'mmon Adam. Fitting into clock bay is a dead easy. Need to search b&q for one "ingredient" that make it easy to make black display shroud (got mine from Polish Castorama DIY store)

Yes I know, but you know front lights is still lain on shelf and waiting for some confidence to eventually fit xenons in them./wall

adaxo

20-09-2011, 11:26 PM

Tomasz do i just place an order through the link on the first post or do you want to do some kind of group buy.

i take it the price on the web site is US dollors $89

If you prepare for some waiting I'm sure we can sort something out :thumbsup:

Davezj

21-09-2011, 12:48 AM

just checked out the web site and following applies to the shipping cost.

1 item £30 total
15 items £35 total which is a massive saving on the total cost
even 5 would be a good saving.

is it really worth worrying about the polish mail service, is it rally that bad? if it is delivered via polish mail then it costs about £5 for a single item.

adaxo

21-09-2011, 01:04 AM

The best mail service from PL to my home used to be my mother in law :flamed:/Devil5

Davezj

21-09-2011, 01:22 AM

yes personal service is always the best

Rixarena

21-09-2011, 04:00 AM

If anyone is organising a group buy then i would be interested in one of these.

Regards Sam

Davezj

21-09-2011, 07:03 AM

Well that is 3 of us already.

foxdie

21-09-2011, 09:16 AM

Happy to organise this for club members if they want. I've got 2 sat at home waiting to be fitted to a clock unit, what myself and Atik would like to do would be to offer these to the club as a complete package, pre-installed into the clock and ready to install.

If people are willing to wait a couple of weeks, we'll try and get something finalised :)

adaxo

21-09-2011, 09:31 AM

Here is available for those who cant wait for GB
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Trip-Computer-UTCOMP-TELWIS-fuel-meter-AFR-vacuum-boost-etc-/130575193171?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item1e66e35453#ht_7999wt_1336

psbarham

21-09-2011, 10:07 AM

thomasz, it looks like I may be free this weekend to have a play.

swinks

21-09-2011, 10:07 AM

OK, guys, just waiting for details from kaczart due to potential GB.
Re: mail service in Poland... I wouldn't recommend as much, hence my suggestion to have a GB and get ordered units by EMS courier.
Once get details of possible discounts and multiple shipping I'll post them here, then we can decide if we going for GB on proposed terms or individually.

swinks

21-09-2011, 10:15 AM

thomasz, it looks like I may be free this weekend to have a play.
Have sent you a PM.

swinks

21-09-2011, 10:35 AM

Got message with potential GB buy offer.

1. GB for 5 to 10 units of UKP
Unit price: 50 GBP
Shipping of ordered units: 30 GBP
2. GB for 10+ units
Unit price: 47 GBP
Shipping: 32 GBP

This is calculated based on PayPal payment including currency conversion fee taken by PayPal.

Kaczart agreed not to charge for different colours of display. As you know basic green is free of additional charge, other displays as subject to additional fee. Due to GB we can order any of display colours without extra fee.

USB cable is not included in GB.

Hope that explains a lot.

swinks

21-09-2011, 11:12 AM

And some pictures of ready installed UKP:
483864838748388483894839048391

Note, that I didn't connect two additional temperature sensors (inside cabin and outside) because we have already those features built into climatronic panel. Anyway, displayed temps looks stupid, so I need to fit both sensors soon.../Hmmm

jahooli

21-09-2011, 11:36 AM

are the buttons fully functional?

foxdie

21-09-2011, 11:36 AM

Any chance of repurposing those temp sensor inputs to read other sensors? Boost / Oil Temp / Oil Pressure etc?

swinks

21-09-2011, 11:43 AM

are the buttons fully functional?
Yes.
They are for switch between screens, input figures, and program ones.

swinks

21-09-2011, 11:46 AM

Any chance of repurposing those temp sensor inputs to read other sensors? Boost / Oil Temp / Oil Pressure etc?
Nope.
There two dedicated inputs for temp sensors based on termistors, so there are 2x (ground, feed, signal). Also there is one output dedicated for analog temp sender (used i.e. for oil or water temp) you can utilize. In my UKP I disabled this one.

Nutter_John

21-09-2011, 11:48 AM

Use the two temp readings for the y pipe ( turbo out) and on the tb to see how good your intercooler is doing :)

Can this unit store the data to a card like a datalogger ?

swinks

21-09-2011, 11:57 AM

I like your idea John!
Well icons on display may be inaccurate then...:P

No, I don't think there is any datalogging in our expectation. It stores some data but it's more mileage and fuel consumption purpose. So.. my answer is NO.

Oh... forget to mention. Black display has poor refreshing ratio, so it appears some 1 second delay with displaying afr and vac/boost figures. Apparently, basic green display has good refreshing ratio, and maybe white one. Obviously green display will look awkward in vr4, so I'm gonna give a try to white display soon.

foxdie

21-09-2011, 11:59 AM

Oh... forget to mention. Black display has poor refreshing ratio, so it appears some 1 second delay with displaying afr and vac/boost figures. Apparently, basic green display has good refreshing ratio, and maybe white one. Obviously green display will look awkward in vr4, so I'm gonna give a try to white display soon.

Crap, you would tell me that after I ordered 2 black ones (oh my! (http://soundcloud.com/davekopczyk/george-takei-oh-my) ;))

swinks

21-09-2011, 12:03 PM

I have black display and I'm not whingeing.../pan You can live with that! :iloveyou:
Anyway, I had to give a try to find out this issue. :happy:

Davezj

21-09-2011, 01:21 PM

i would have thlught you could put a coloured lens in front of the dispaly and change colour that way, but it ia an LCD display and not an LED display so bright and dark are reversed.
a coloured lens might obscure the display too much. we will have to wait and see. but the white display would brobably respond the best to a coloured lens.

Davezj

21-09-2011, 01:34 PM

swinks

21-09-2011, 02:26 PM

Yes, Dave.

LudviG

21-09-2011, 02:38 PM

If there going to be a group buy of these I am interested for sure, and would gladly pay for someone to fit it in the a galant clock for me. Since i have a EUDM N/A galant, i really don't need the mods u guys need.

jahooli

21-09-2011, 02:48 PM

Can we have a complete list of what this will monitor and display?
Is the LPG option any more expensive or difficult to fit?

thanks

swinks

21-09-2011, 10:17 PM

Here is briefly description what is displayed:

- vehicle speed ([km/h] or [mph]),

- current fuel consumption ([l/h] and [l/100km] or [gph - galons per hour] and [mpg]),

- average fule consumption ([l/100km] or [mpg]),

- recent trip distance (from fuelling/reset),

- total distance,

- amount of fuel in a tank (or tanks, if vehicle converted to LPG),

- day trip computer (trip time, average speed, max speed, distance, average fuel consumption),

- LPG "on" indication (petrol/lpg mode indication; independent petrol/lpg trip calculations),

- date and time,

- ambient temperature outside and inside vehicle,

- analog input from temperature sender, i.e. coolant, oil (can be used in ngine block, coolant system, etc.)

- acceleration measurements (auto mode) plus customer defined scale (i.e 0-100, 60-120, 0-120 km/h etc.),

- two analog 0-5v inputs for i.e.: wideband, tps and map sensor (with making graphs on display)

- customer defined wideband afr input (equation)

- customer defined map input (equation) displayed in BAR or PSI,

- radiator fans status signalization,

- "lights on" reminder (for countries where daylights are required 24/7), lights activated with speed above 10km/h,

- servicing reminder (customer defined intervals),

- battery voltage display,

Also it has following functions:

- black ice warning,

- overheating warning defined by customer (with analog tem input from sender),

- predefined switchable displays plus customer defined additional display,

- each display shows 4 figures (2 main and 2 small)

- activation or deactivation of predefined displays,

- switchable units (imperial or continental),

- English/Polish menu,

- user defined "welcome" starting display,

- user defined font size

- user defined display brightness,

- Win XP/Vista/7 application for programming and flashing UTC via USB (download from manufacturer website, you will need NET.Framework 4.0),

UTC is working with vehicles with LPG, it does separate calculations for either petrol or lpg, displays for each are switchable.

swinks

21-09-2011, 10:20 PM

Actually, it's explained in better English :coat on a website:
http://www.telwis.pl/universal-trip-computer-utcomp-p-119.html?language=en

ianturbo

21-09-2011, 10:34 PM

I would be interested in one of these too , but i don't want the MPG figures /haz
ian

Rixarena

22-09-2011, 01:04 AM

so does someone want to organise a groupbuy? :P

Sam

swinks

22-09-2011, 08:49 AM

Regarding GB - my advice is to wait a little bit untill I'll test white display. Then anyone interested will have a choice of display colour.
Once tests completed it's up do Jason and Atik if they happy to follow with GB with prices listed above. Otherwise I'll consider to became temporary bronze trader and will organize GB.

gareth001

22-09-2011, 01:20 PM

I would be interested in one of these too , but i don't want the MPG figures /haz
ian

Could we configue the MPG to always report +100% of the actual MPG? Just to make us feel better :D

swinks

26-09-2011, 04:44 PM

Well guys... been testing another UTC with white display.
Results?
1. Innovate and PLX wideband controllers have the same equation.
2. Apexi map sensor seems have similar equation to AEM one. After putting my values vacuum/boost figures looked roughly accurate, but need more testing.
3. White display:
- has little better refreshing rate, barely noticeable in afr readings, but with almost no difference to vacuum/boost readings. Anyway, for driver "pleasure" recent refreshing ratio is enough, if anyone is after proper readings necessary for tuning your ride, then installing proper gizzmo is a "must". Don't forget that UTC is a toy.
- white display looks, no good anyway. It's semi visible thru smoked clock glass, and once I did cut hole for better visibility it looked awkward with other clocks and dash. IMO, black display looks the best, no doubt.
Here pictures of white display...
4854648547

And after cutting hole:
48548485494855048551
with smoked glass panel:

adaxo

26-09-2011, 04:54 PM

Now put some 0-60 times/Devil5/Banana

Good job to track all us with info /GJ/thankyou

btw what/where from/how plugin to engine sensor do you use for boost readings??

swinks

26-09-2011, 05:07 PM

Adam, not as easy as sounds... :)
You will need a separate map sensor with analog 0-5v output to plug in. Anyway there are few on eBay, most of them made by Greddy. Also some ebc have own map sensors with that ouput.
Anyway, it can't be done with stock selenoid.

adaxo

26-09-2011, 05:21 PM

Something like that will do??? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Boost-Pressure-Map-Sensor-DENSO-0-3-Bar-5-Voltage-/110508232923?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19bacdd0db#ht_1249wt_1102

psbarham

26-09-2011, 05:35 PM

:D

hooge thanks to the dodgy foreign bloke who gave up his Saturday to fit the worlds coolest gadget in my leggie.
oh and thomasz, I can now run 1.2 bar with no surge, Feckin yanks and their dodgy wiring /lol

swinks

26-09-2011, 05:38 PM

Something like that will do??? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Boost-Pressure-Map-Sensor-DENSO-0-3-Bar-5-Voltage-/110508232923?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19bacdd0db#ht_1249wt_1102
Yep, it will do the job. :)

swinks

26-09-2011, 05:39 PM

:D
I can now run 1.2 bar with no surge, Feckin yanks and their dodgy wiring /lol
Awsome... /rally

I think we are ready for project #2 :D

psbarham

26-09-2011, 05:40 PM

Awsome... /rally

I think we are ready for project #2 :D

too right, bring it on.

Davezj

26-09-2011, 08:25 PM

What have you two been up to now!

swinks

26-09-2011, 08:29 PM

Shushh Dave....
Jet propulsion :lipseal
:upsidedow

adaxo

26-09-2011, 08:32 PM

Something with 4 in name /secret/popcorn , but don't say to no one.

Davezj

26-09-2011, 08:48 PM

Reason I ask is because my boost is surging

What?
How?
Why?
Which?
When? Well I know that one it was last Saturday.

swinks

26-09-2011, 09:07 PM

Unfortunately Dave, we kicked a**es of few electrical goblins and that sorted issue. I hope :) Anyway it was down to electrics and wires.

Davezj

26-09-2011, 09:46 PM

Fair enough, I will have try some other ally's of investigation.

legnum1

28-09-2011, 10:52 AM

Count me in for one of these if a group buy happens

foxdie

28-09-2011, 11:22 AM

I'll be doing a test fit of the UTCOMP to Atiks car tomorrow, will post up pics once it's done :)

Once we've got the basics down, we'll look at the group buy :thumbsup:

swinks

28-09-2011, 11:27 AM

That's what I was trying to say. Just waiting for your tests and IMO we can start with group buy. Anyway necessary experience and data collected, so fitting and setting up should go smooth now. :)

foxdie

29-09-2011, 05:40 PM

So we built one, just had to share our first attempt :)

48651486534864948650486544865748655486484864748652 48656

I have to say, wiring this thing up is far from user-friendly, he's used a common PC ATX (motherboard) Power Connector as part of his design to save cost (understandable), however he hasn't moved the pins around, so you're wiring up black wires to battery positive, orange to negative, etc etc.

A few points of note;
I snipped the lug off the LCD screen PCB to get it to fit (see pic 4), this caused no issues
Fitting the button PCB was quite difficult, you have to tuck the PCB behind the screen as you close the case, pushing it into place with a small flatblade screwdriver
The black-background screen is indeed VERY dark and nearly unreadable in sunlight (once installed in the car, this won't be an issue), we may offer a replacement OLED screen as an optional add-on that will be much brighter and clearer
The LCD Display ribbon cable is your common 40-pin CDROM/IDE cable, to get it to fit you have to separate the wires to "fold" them over each other, you can buy ones pre-folded as above to make fitment easier (see pic 9)
I found the easiest place to mount the beeper was on the rear of the clock unit above the cables (see pic 9)
The buttons are reversed on this first build, "SET" is actually the leftmost button on the on-screen menu, this made sense on assembly because the leftmost button is used the most, but makes general use a little confusing, this will be swapped round in further builds :)
All in all, assembly took about 4 hours and required the following tools / ancillaries;
2 meters of 6-core (burglar alarm) cable
Superglue - Any plastic superglue will do
Dremel with disc cutter and rotary grinder / sander bits
Soldering Iron with solder / flux
Shrink Wrap for insulating solder joints
12V battery for testing after assembly
Please note, this is UNFITTED, there is still plenty more soldering to do to fit it :)

swinks

29-09-2011, 10:57 PM

I have to say, wiring this thing up is far from user-friendly, he's used a common PC ATX (motherboard) Power Connector as part of his design to save cost (understandable), however he hasn't moved the pins around, so you're wiring up black wires to battery positive, orange to negative, etc etc.

???
What are you talking about? :thinking:
I've found wiring quite easy, just read provided pdf manual /pan.
24-pin connector comes with pre-fitted wires, all black colour, actual color coding and harness making is down to customer.
As other issues with fitting into clock bay you've raised... sorry you doing it wrong way...:evilgrin:

Tommorow I'll get my UTCOM off vehicle and do few more detailed pictures to give you idea. :iloveyou:

Mark 4

29-09-2011, 11:07 PM

-You tell em Tomasz.

swinks

30-09-2011, 11:28 AM

Time for little DIY guide :deal2:

1. Disassembly clock enclosure. You will see as in picture
48671

2. Next step is to remove switch panel PCB. To do so, you need to de-solder shown pins (picture above). That is necessary if you would like to utilize stock switch panel. Otherwise you can use provided by manufacturer switch panel and fit one i.e. in dash surround or door control panel. Decision is up to you.
Well, let's say we want use stock switch board.
Note following 4 soldering points (from left to right):
- switch common earth
- switch #3
- switch #1
- switch #2
Beware, that I did allocated switch numbers from left to right.
To utilize stock switch board you will need to solder in your own 4-wire cable. My recommendation is to use well known from computing industry micro-JST connectors. Naked wires without connector you will solder into pcb board and connector end stick out thru rear wall (final picture: 4 colour wire at rear of clock surround).
Here linky to eBay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Micro-1-25-T-1-4-Pin-JST-Connector-w-Wire-x-10-sets-/180731168274?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a146ac612
And... That's how clock pcb will look like after disconnecting switch panel:
48674

3. Now it's time to remove clock pcb from enclosure. Once enclosure is empty we can do some serious work.

4. Make rear hole in back wall of clock enclosure to adopt 40-pin cable going to UTCOM display pcb. Check if you can get ribbon cable thru cutted hole.
48672
Look at rear view, you can see ribbon display cable and 4-wire remote switch cable:
4869348694

5. Time to fit UTCOM display pcb into enclosure. That requires to remove some internal walls. Picture below shows line I cut out internal walls inside clock enclosure.
48673
That picture will give you idea. I did it quickly using just wire cutter:
48681
6. Once ensured that display pcb will fit into clock enclosure we need to figure out how deep pcb will need to be fitted. The simple way is by fitting 2 small self tapping screws along desired line.
48675
That's mine screws tapped:
48680
Once done, insulate them using thermo shrink tube, etc. And that's how it looks inside enclosure, note screws insulation:
48681
Picture below shows approx how I did. You need to justify depth yourself but must remember, that switch pcb board is going on top of display pcb. You can see alignment of switch panel and display pcb:
48685486824868348684

7. OK, we have display pcb board sitting square and nice in clock enclosure. Now we need to prepare front panel hole for display. First, put display pcb into enclosure. Next, fit switch board into stock fittings (left side should remained untouched). Right side of switch pcb will stick little above display pcb edge. No worries, for that reason I mentioned above to justify right depth of display pcb.
With UTCOM inside enclosure try to assembly front panel. You will get rough idea how front hole needs to be cut out. Then remove front panel and get your dremmel, small files and hack saw ready.
8 Front panel display hole should be cut out roughly along marked lines. Picture:
48676
9. After assembly you will notice gap between front panel and display. Now it's time to make surround shroud. The best is to use:
- a trunking rectangular tube size 65mm x 25mm sliced like bread to desired depth (well, good luck with finding that size trunking)
- plastic junction box for electric purposes (fuse, junctions, etc.) I've found one in Poland sized 65mm x 26mm x 150mm so I did sliced one getting rectangular shrouds.
Here is what I'm suggesting:
48677
And final result of making display surround:
486864868748688
10. Once we get it sliced and cutted to desired depth we can fix one by using any epoxy adhesive. I've found P38 compound as the best.
11. So display shroud surround fitted and front panel ready. Time to remove all imperfections: fill gaps with body filler, sand out other bits. Once we get smooth and ready front panel we can paint one. Black matt finish I would recommend.
12. Now, you will notice that rubber buttons won't fit. Small imperfection. All you need is to little trim rubber base:
48678

IIRC, that's all.

Final result you will get:
48690486914869248689

foxdie

03-10-2011, 10:42 AM

???
What are you talking about? :thinking:
I've found wiring quite easy, just read provided pdf manual /pan.
24-pin connector comes with pre-fitted wires, all black colour, actual color coding and harness making is down to customer.
As other issues with fitting into clock bay you've raised... sorry you doing it wrong way...:evilgrin:

Tommorow I'll get my UTCOM off vehicle and do few more detailed pictures to give you idea. :iloveyou:

The 24-pin connector I had wasn't all black wiring, it was multi-coloured like a real ATX power cable. I ignored the colours and followed the PDF manual and as you can see, the unit works :)

Love you too :P

-You tell em Tomasz.

Stop provoking him :)

swinks

03-10-2011, 12:35 PM

The 24-pin connector I had wasn't all black wiring, it was multi-coloured like a real ATX power cable. I ignored the colours and followed the PDF manual and as you can see, the unit works :)

OK, explains a lot. But for those who may assembly UTCOM themselves - READ PDF! It's your Bible :-)

foxdie

03-10-2011, 12:40 PM

It's your Bible :-)

It comes wrapper of cellophane? :)

swinks

03-10-2011, 12:51 PM

Few more tips.

For those who would wish to fit display much closer to front for better visibility...
Well, you need to forget about making any use of stock clock buttons. There is no other way, but to use provided in package switch pcb and relocate switches. You have to remove stock buttons pcb, rubber stock buttons may be retain as dummies for usage of front smoked panel.

Thanks to PSB we have fond the best possible location for remote switches in our vr4. /bananaroc
And location is: bottom left in dash clock surround. It's almost perfect location, looks like MMC have already knew about UTCOM. :happy:
Here are few pictures how I did fitted provided buttons.
1. You need to lower mounting points. I've trimmed them down about 5mm.
48784
2. Mounting holes in provided pcb need to be enlarged a bit, I used 5mm drill.
3. Carefully mark 3 button points and drill using 4mm drill bit.
4. I fitted complete switch pcs using short tapping screws (same used for fitting trim panels)
4878648785

Well, I think it's a time to do a GB :dance:

Davezj

03-10-2011, 01:06 PM

so who wants to doing the group buy?

swinks

03-10-2011, 01:31 PM

Well, I can do with quoted prices. :curtain:
New thread soon to to be created. :happy:

foxdie

10-10-2011, 10:30 AM

Going to be installing the first one we made in Atiks car this Saturday and hopefully refining the process for making more.

I'm not sure how we're going to do the display surround as Swinks as done it, Tomasz I think you need to go into more detail on step 9 please?

I suppose we need a vote on the button location too, would people prefer the buttons in the dash clock surround, reuse the clock buttons or use another location?

swinks

10-10-2011, 10:50 AM

Jason, re: display surround...
I think, there are 2 ways of doing one:
1. Utilizing stock clock buttons, then follow my steps, hence display is located deep into clock. After few week trial, I would cut out hole for display as much lower as it possible (step #8), also locate display as close to front panel as possible (less deep as I did in my beta version), this few mm will do a difference.
Display surround you can get from slicing (like bread) similar stuff I suggested in step #9. You will get rectangular frames from slicing.
2. Moving remote buttons to dash surround, then you can level display with front clock panel. There is no need for display surround shroud, hence forget step #9. Stock clock buttons can be left as dummies.

In both scenarios, it's up to customer if he wants to use stock clock dimm panel (smoked dark brown), or make new front dimm panel from light smoked perspex glass (better visibility)

Anyway, everything is ready for a GB (negotiated prices, shipping, diy guide, known issues and remedies etc.), apparently it's down to CVR4 admins, as my application is already in waiting for week with no action. :sad3:

foxdie

10-10-2011, 11:03 AM

After few week trial, I would cut out hole for display as much lower as it possible (step #8), also locate display as close to front panel as possible (less deep as I did in my beta version), this few mm will do a difference.
Display surround you can get from slicing (like bread) similar stuff I suggested in step #9. You will get rectangular frames from slicing.

What I was asking for was more information on this process, can you take photos of how you did this?

Anyway, everything is ready for a GB (negotiated prices, shipping, diy guide, known issues and remedies etc.), apparently it's down to CVR4 admins, as my application is already in waiting for week with no action. :sad3:

Ahh okay, so you're going to handle the group buy then, that's fine, but are you only going to supply the kit, not pre-build them? We were going to pre-build them so customers could just drop them straight into the car.

As for the application, mine took a couple of weeks, I think it's just a case of getting all the site admins together at the same time to talk about it, but given your (very) good rep I don't think it'll be a problem :)

swinks

10-10-2011, 11:08 AM

What I was asking for was more information on this process, can you take photos of how you did this?

I'll try to find any remaining bits and do photos for you.

Regarding GB: yes, kits only. Prices already quoted plus shipping within UK.
Also free technical support :happy:

ritch_w

10-10-2011, 05:48 PM

guys - does this do the same thing "out the box" http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300501942549?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
or are the units you guys are building offer more?

Atik

10-10-2011, 06:12 PM

Similar Ritch, but I believe that the PLX unit is not compatible with our cars as we are not OBDII compliant.

swinks

11-10-2011, 09:06 AM

Just like Atik said. Our cars have OBD2 lookalike socket but use a MUT2/3 protocol.

swinks

12-10-2011, 11:27 AM

GB thread is now open!
Here:
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?60355-UTCOM-Univesal-Trip-Computer&p=666733#post666733

jahooli

15-10-2011, 08:41 PM

???
What are you talking about? :thinking:
I've found wiring quite easy, just read provided pdf manual /pan.
24-pin connector comes with pre-fitted wires, all black colour, actual color coding and harness making is down to customer.
As other issues with fitting into clock bay you've raised... sorry you doing it wrong way...:evilgrin:

Tommorow I'll get my UTCOM off vehicle and do few more detailed pictures to give you idea. :iloveyou:

Is this a connector to connector fit or loads of wires that have to be sourced and extended?
How hard is it to wire, can a novice do it and how long did/should it take?

thanks

foxdie

15-10-2011, 10:23 PM

It's not the easiest thing to wire up, but it's not impossible, you have to be a logical thinker and printing off the installation manual (http://www.telwis.pl/downloads/user_manuals/english/utcomp_v2-0_universal_trip_computer_user_manual.pdf) helps.

Here are a few hints and tips:

The connector is the same as a motherboard power connector, with about 4" of wire, certainly not enough to reach everywhere so you'll need to provide your own wire
The colours of the wiring is random, having to wire black to permanent +12V and orange to GND is confusing, follow the manual not your better judgement
If you want to have the buttons and buzzer located in the clock, you'll need to run 6-core cable from the UTCOMP wiring loom to the clock as well as the display cable

The UTCOMP has a total of 5 external sensors it can monitor:

2 x Digital Temperature Sensors

These are supplied in the box and are 3 wire digital sensors (highly accurate as they are a microprocessor in their own right), they can be used to measure anything up to 120'C, any hotter and they will melt but are very cheap (http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=36_68&products_id=585) to replace if you destroy one :)

They would be ideal for measuring coolant temperature, however getting the sensor into the coolant would be difficult without drilling and possible coolant leaks, you could use thermal cement (http://www.thecoolingshop.com/product_info/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Adhesive_22816.html) to affix it to the thermostat housing however there's a good chance it'll pick up background heat (ie. engine bay heat) as well.

Conversely, you could also use them to measure engine bay temps :)

2 x Analog 0-5V sensors

This supports any sensor that outputs 0-5V, so that could be a Wideband o2 sensor, a boost pressure (MAP) sensor, oil pressure sensor etc.

One gotcha here is that these wires are input only, some sensors (the above pressure sensors for example) require +5V and GND, the UTCOMP doesn't provide either for the Analog 0-5V sensors, luckily you can reuse one of the regulated +5V feed from the Digital Temp Sensors above and take GND from the same place you supply power to the UTCOMP.

1 x Analog Temp Sensor

This sensor's wire is constantly +5V and how much resistance to GND dictates what its value is. To use this, you'll typically wire up a 2 wire temp sensor (oil temp sensor for example), one pin to this wire, the other to GND (again, you'll need to find another GND source, just tap into the main GND location as the UTCOMP power).

Hope this helps some folk :)

LudviG

16-10-2011, 07:42 AM

Will there be possible to get it fitted in a clock berøre shipping it further to med. Will you do this mod, or is it maybe possible that foxdie can do this?

Sendt from HTC Desire using Tapatalk Pro, cause iPhones are for suckers.

jahooli

16-10-2011, 08:52 AM

Who can i pay to wire one up and how much would they charge!!!

swinks

16-10-2011, 09:46 AM

Yes, either me or foxdie can provide such service, maybe few more members I'm not aware of. This is subject of PM, not this thread.

lateshow

16-10-2011, 09:59 AM

When do they release the version that has a working AFR, mine reads lambda correctly but cant give AFR figures.. Another thing: The screen isn't good. Mine is black and has these whiter areas... And in cold mornings you cant see anything from the screen for a big while. But otherwise: A GREAT PRODUCT! Have recommended this to everyone in Finland! Easy to calibrate and gives you EXACT comsumption ratings :) This device may however change you driving style...... :(

foxdie

16-10-2011, 11:36 AM

Will there be possible to get it fitted in a clock berøre shipping it further to med. Will you do this mod, or is it maybe possible that foxdie can do this?.

Yes, either me or foxdie can provide such service, maybe few more members I'm not aware of. This is subject of PM, not this thread.

Agreed, the both of us can pre-assemble it for you (there'll be a small charge as assembly take 2 hours) but this is best discussed in PM.

When do they release the version that has a working AFR, mine reads lambda correctly but cant give AFR figures..

Erm, it's a setting in the software, you have to configure it for Wideband, not Lambda :)

Another thing: The screen isn't good. Mine is black and has these whiter areas... And in cold mornings you cant see anything from the screen for a big while.

Unfortunately yes, this is a side-effect of using a budget display to keep the cost down.

psbarham

16-10-2011, 01:16 PM

Who can i pay to wire one up and how much would they charge!!!

well you you know where my house is don't ya?

foxdie

17-10-2011, 02:51 PM

Okay people, here's some more helpful information on the UTCOMP, configuration values for R-Spec's sensors :)

R-Spec Oil and Temp Sensor - link (http://rspec.co.uk/gauge-sensors-senders/r-spec-oil-water-temperature-sensor)
Connects to: ATS (Analog Temp Sensor) input and GND (Ground), polarity not important
Variables for UTCOMP: A=125 t=0.5 T0=42

R-Spec Boost Pressure / MAP Sensor - link (http://rspec.co.uk/gauge-sensors-senders/r-spec-precision-boost-pressure-sensor)
Connects to: Digital Temp Sensor (1 or 2) +5V, ADC (Analog 0-5V) Input (1 or 2) and GND (Ground), polarity important
Variables for UTCOMP: A=1 B=-1

R-Spec Oil / Fuel Pressure Sensor - link (http://rspec.co.uk/gauge-sensors-senders/precision-oil-pressure-sensor-adjustable-warning-peak-gauges)
Connects to: Digital Temp Sensor (1 or 2) +5V, ADC (Analog 0-5V) Input (1 or 2) and GND (Ground), polarity important
Variables for UTCOMP: A=2.5 B=-1.25

If you wanna see how these were calculated, you can access the spreadsheets / graphs here (http://is.gd/o59wEd) :thumbsup:

swinks

17-10-2011, 09:34 PM

And in cold mornings you cant see anything from the screen for a big while.

Yest, it's due to LCD display characteristics.
There is half way solution tho. It will help a bit, but also you can use some blanked off light bulb as a "heater" behind display :D
You have to solder between display pin 2 and 3 thermistor 4.7k and resistor 4.7k in line.
Here's how:
49095
Location of display pins you will get from pdf manual.

swinks

17-10-2011, 09:37 PM

When do they release the version that has a working AFR, mine reads lambda correctly but cant give AFR figures..

UTCOM can read optionally either narrowband Lambda input 0-1v form ecu (for that purpose is additional graph display screen) or if set up via software wideband AFR 0-5V taken from wideband controller. I think you mistaken narrowband for wideband.

swinks

17-10-2011, 09:44 PM

Oh... you have taken feed to sensors off digital temp sensors writting them off totally... :) Hm.... I've found better use of both temp sensors. :smug:
Those who have already fitted map sensors (i.e Apexi AVCR, HKS EVC, Greddy, AEM, etc.) don't need to take such extreme steps, you already have 5V output to hook to UTCOM.

Due to monitoring wideband... you will need wideband controller anyway with 0-5V output, so it's time to invest some money in purchase of wideband lambda.
Always, you can stay with monitoring stock narrowband lambda sensor 0-1V, and for that purpose is provided graph display screen.

Anyway. Don't you try to use both digi sensors for monitoring coolant temp. Colland is corrosive and will f** up this sensors. For monitoring coolant or oil temp, use right sensors, usually 1/8 npt input.

Davezj

18-10-2011, 01:24 PM

couldn't you fit the digi temp sensors in the inlet pipework to monitor air intake temp at the plenum and pre intertooler points which would give you a good idea of your inlet pipework efficiency.
you could slip them pre wired between the y pipe and flex, through the joint and under the clamp then in a similar position just prior to the throttle body elbow. they would be flapping about in the air flow but as long as the solder joints are good it would give you the desired effect without cutting.drilling pipework.

swinks

19-10-2011, 09:31 PM

couldn't you fit the digi temp sensors in the inlet pipework to monitor air intake temp at the plenum and pre intertooler points which would give you a good idea of your inlet pipework efficiency.

That's what we did with Paul :d
Different fitting points tho. One in a air box, other into intake plenum behind TB.
Now, I know that intake temp in MAF area was at max. 37C so far. Intake plenum sensor not connected yet... haven't got time to remove plenum so far.
BTW, coolant temp was 73C max. after 1 hour driving /Hmmm

adaxo

19-10-2011, 10:45 PM

Tomek, you can accurately log MAF temps via Evoscan??

swinks

20-10-2011, 08:51 AM

Adam, are you driving on daily basis with laptop/notebook screen in your face and Evoscan on? /haz

adaxo

20-10-2011, 09:09 AM

No I don't but I through Dave talking about checking how efficient is air cooling system and don't se a point to monitoring this all the time so my point of view was that we need to add one temp sensor ( after IC ) just to keep things simple.

swinks

20-10-2011, 09:55 AM

You missing a point really. :)
Having sensor prior to IC and after give you idea how crap is your charge cooling system etc. Having both sensor fitted you have instant comparison, also you can see how driving conditions are affecting temperatures, etc. You would be surprised how dynamic are changes, and together with coolant temp on a screen it's quite handy and available at all time.

Then combined with boost, afr oil temp, and pressure values gives you nice handy tool to instant diagnose your vehicle wealth. That can be done with Evoscan of course, but still not handy.

Nutter_John

20-10-2011, 10:16 AM

Then combined with boost, afr oil temp, and pressure values gives you nice handy tool to instant diagnose your vehicle wealth. .

Sorry Tomasz but my car is not very wealthy at all :D

And I agree it is good to see lots of different things to understand how the car is operating , but would say too much information is worse than no information sometimes

Wodjno

20-10-2011, 10:19 AM

but would say too much information is worse than no information sometimes
It is optional to look at the info /yes

Nutter_John

20-10-2011, 10:25 AM

It is optional to look at the info /yes

Yes it is optional to look at the info , but which info do you look at and what does it mean in isolation

Don't get me wrong I agree 100% capturing the data is great for seeing what is going on in the engine bay , but I would say that for normal on the road usage nothing more than oil T , Oil p and boost is required (AFR's maybe if you have tuned the fueling )
When tuning having the lot available helps you see the bigger picture though

swinks

20-10-2011, 10:37 AM

John, that was my point in very few first posts here. UTCOM is a great tool for fueling and trip computing. :)
Other features are just additional gizzmos, handy of course by only for use by those who pushing his car to an extreme. And exactly for that reason I did utilized both provided digi temp sensors. Otherwise there is no point.

Wodjno

20-10-2011, 10:51 AM

Yes it is optional to look at the info , but which info do you look at and what does it mean in isolation

Don't get me wrong I agree 100% capturing the data is great for seeing what is going on in the engine bay , but I would say that for normal on the road usage nothing more than oil T , Oil p and boost is required (AFR's maybe if you have tuned the fueling )
When tuning having the lot available helps you see the bigger picture though

You look at which information interests you! If you want to tune your car to the hilt, then as much info as possible is great. But as you say, just displaying OT,OP, Boost is also good for just everyday peace of mind. Look at it like this! How many peeps out there have got TV's with a plethora of features? But never use 80% of them and just turn it on and watch it /Hmmm
But the other 20% of peeps will use the all the features to the maximum /yes
More is better as the options are there for the future.
I for 1 won't be using all of the features available to start with, but am sure in the future i will.

adaxo

20-10-2011, 11:10 AM

Well, we all got valid points on that, each to their own, I just not fancy driving a car with million gauges and screens all over my head flashing figures on my eyes all the time especially during night, not mention about all wires/sensors involved which could go wrong and probably do, and yes for tune/setup its great tool but after all is set/check I will try just use a basic functions (like average mpg )
BTW is any chance to speed up first GB? We got already 10 ppl so may we can start order that as first bach and then start another list for next 10

psbarham

20-10-2011, 06:45 PM

mine's just monitoring the intake temps in the snorkel at the mo, and in traffic the temps reached a whopping 87 degrees centigrade :o

At some point soon i shall fit the manifold sensor and see how good the intercooler is.

swinks

21-10-2011, 07:57 PM

in traffic the temps reached a whopping 87 degrees centigrade :o

Paul, very likely it's due to electrical fault, either one of sensor wires loose connection or shortened.

swinks

21-10-2011, 07:58 PM

Adam, yes there are already 10 ppls, but I don't want to change rules whilst game is still on.

adaxo

21-10-2011, 09:01 PM

Adam, yes there are already 10 ppls, but I don't want to change rules whilst game is still on.

Yes you right, don't change the rules, but if all of us (9 interested) will agreed to speed up things I think we all will benefit from earlier completion date ?? as I said is only suggestion, I don't want to put any pressure on that (probably we all feel a bit of pressure on cvr4 right now)

sonicsoundzdj

21-10-2011, 10:01 PM

how much would the people in the know charge to fit these? not sure if i trust myself trying to fit one :s

swinks

24-10-2011, 01:28 PM

Today fitted another display version for trial, it's white display with blue pespex:
491524915349154

swinks

24-10-2011, 01:33 PM

Paul, very likely it's due to electrical fault, either one of sensor wires loose connection or shortened.

Seems that I was wrong. Today whilst stationary for approx. 1 hour on idle (charging dead battery :coat ), my temp in intake jump to 84C :rolleyes4 /JawDroppi :shocked:. At the same time, temp in manifold plenum was steady 72C.
Must say, vr4 engine setup requires quick/fast driving /Steeringw :joker:

vr4drifta

24-10-2011, 09:19 PM

that display looks ok could we change the actual output display for something else or would this not be possible

swinks

24-10-2011, 09:31 PM

could we change the actual output display for something else
What d'you mean Amesh? Colour, fonts, lines displayed...?

foxdie

24-10-2011, 09:37 PM

I think he's talking about a more visible screen...

I've been meaning to talk to Artur to see if I can replace the screen somehow with a high-vis OLED display, I'll drop him an email now.

swinks

24-10-2011, 09:43 PM

I've been meaning to talk to Artur to see if I can replace the screen somehow with a high-vis OLED display, I'll drop him an email now.
You can save yourself time. :kiss:
We've been discussing this for last 2 months on PL forum. Artur (kaczart) made decision that possible OLED displays will get into production no earlier than June next year. That involves completely new software, and hardware, so at the moment is a big no-no. Also possible new display would be a bit bigger than recent, and its pcb would be considerable bigger.

foxdie

24-10-2011, 09:46 PM

You can save yourself time. :kiss:
We've been discussing this for last 2 months on PL forum. Artur (kaczart) made decision that possible OLED displays will get into production no earlier than June next year. That involves completely new software, and hardware, so at the moment is a big no-no. Also possible new display would be a bit bigger than recent, and its pcb would be considerable bigger.

Crap I just emailed him anyway, oh well.

I'd like to work with him to design a v2, myself and Atik have been plotting to make something much better but the actual "development" process could do with someone with more experience, whats the link to the forum? :)

swinks

24-10-2011, 09:57 PM

Here:
http://forum.mitsumaniaki.pl/viewtopic.php?t=14477
last 40 pages... :whistle:
Good luck with learning Polish :jester:

Artur made his UTCOM as part of his vehicle engineering degree project. He's still a graduate student.
I know that another Polish forum member works on something similar to UTCOM as his PhD project, but this time more orientated to performance cars using data log port, Don't know details yet tho.

Rixarena

24-10-2011, 10:14 PM

whats the best way to purchase one of these? is the group buy for the uk yet? or is everyone still testing them out?

Regards Sam

swinks

24-10-2011, 10:28 PM

whats the best way to purchase one of these? is the group buy for the uk yet? or is everyone still testing them out?
Regards Sam
Group Buy was launched.
Here:
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?60355-UTCOM-Universal-Trip-Computer&p=669073#post669073

swinks

26-10-2011, 05:44 PM

Another version of clock fitted black display. This time stock dark brown perspex panel was replaced by custom cut-to-shape light smoke perspex. Looks pretty good, so I'll stay with this.
Piccys (bottom row, 1st to the left is done with ignition off):
491804918149182491834918449185

Also I've done 2nd fueling with UTCOM fitted.
So, UTCOM "said" on display that I need 32 liters of petrol to full tank, and actually I did pour 32.4 liters of juice !!! /JawDroppi
Whatsmore that was after only 1st basic calibration and only 1 fueling up calibration! User Manual says, that to get right figures you will have to do 1st basic calibration and then follow up with up to 4 fueling calibration.
How good is that! :dance:

swinks

27-10-2011, 10:46 PM

And little video of working UTCOM:
http://s278.photobucket.com/albums/kk120/swinks_UK/pierdoly/?action=view&current=P1070258.mp4

adaxo

09-11-2011, 07:59 PM

First question, is ukp should work (screen should light up) after plugin in to pc via usb only, without any other power source??

swinks

09-11-2011, 08:58 PM

Don't know, never tried this way. Always was convinced that it needs batt and acc +12V and earth to work.

adaxo

09-11-2011, 09:13 PM

That's what get me confused a bit:

Initial start-up can be performed before the assembly - in order to check the device and
its initial configuration.
Connect the device using the USB cable to the PC. Windows should detect new hardware
and automatically install the drivers. Then run the UTCOMP application (single file
UTCOMP.exe). If the device is working properly the status window will display "Connected".

It's not happen on my PC.

swinks

09-11-2011, 09:28 PM

You muppet! :)
Obviously it meant first switch-on after installing UTCOM, so both: live and acc feeds already connected.

adaxo

09-11-2011, 09:57 PM

NO, NO, NO
I was asking why UTCOMP application don't auto start after plug in via usb, sorted now by install .NET Framework 4.0 and manually downloaded UTCOMP.exe from here (http://www.telwis.pl/downloads/software/), anyway thanks for calling me by name :iloveyou:

swinks

09-11-2011, 10:02 PM

NO, NO, NO
I was asking why UTCOMP application don't auto start after plug in via usb, sorted now by install .NET Framework 4.0 ... anyway thanks for calling me by name :iloveyou:
...And you were not bothered to read out little txt file downloaded with UTCOM software... :)

adaxo

09-11-2011, 10:06 PM

Well, that's how I find the solution (eventually), some say manuals are for p*****/hammer obviously not it this case.

exevoowner

15-11-2011, 07:01 AM

Rite boys n girls anyone had a play with this product as i would be intrested but want the display to be showen on a in car pc as either a tab or option veiw anyone played with it ?

swinks

15-11-2011, 07:27 AM

Nigel, use EOI thread please!

swinks

15-11-2011, 10:38 AM

but want the display to be showen on a in car pc
I'm afraid there is no such option.

exevoowner

15-11-2011, 12:04 PM

so whats the usb port for ?and thought it woz eoi thread as title says ?

swinks

15-11-2011, 01:04 PM

USB port is for programming user settings. It's nothing to do with display.
Nigel, you did post in actual GB thread, hence it was moved to EOI.

GalantOnly

20-11-2011, 05:48 AM

Nice piece of toy /yes
But it can't really remember the custom start up screen, or is it just me...?

viniu88

20-11-2011, 06:05 AM

was it a PITA to fit it ?! mein is still in box :(

GalantOnly

20-11-2011, 06:48 AM

was it a PITA to fit it ?! mein is still in box :(

PITA?! Noooo... :)
The picture tells the story............../Hyper
But when I see the throttle position sensor graph where the boring clock was before, I think... that it's absolutely worth the effort /yes

swinks

20-11-2011, 07:40 AM

But it can't really remember the custom start up screen, or is it just me...?
Did you write up and saved display settings via usb?

GalantOnly

20-11-2011, 08:33 AM

Did you write up and saved display settings via usb?

Yes... With UTCOM out of the car and directly wired to PC throught USB. Altered what was nessesary and saved. Then closed the software. Opened it again and my text was still there. Installed the box in the car and after that my text was gone and fuel capacity down on the 60 liter again (use it on 2.0 with 64 liter tank)...
Maybe I should try with the laptop while the box is in the car...?

swinks

20-11-2011, 10:00 AM

Yes, you should do this way. Welcome screen is kept in memory by +12v live feed from battery. Once disconnected it's back to default.

psbarham

20-11-2011, 09:47 PM

5 fill ups in and mine is 100% accurate, my mpg calc on the phone says exactly the same as the utcom, feckin awesome bit of kit.

swinks

25-11-2011, 09:53 PM

Got message from Artur that new display are available:
- amber with black lettering
- black with amber lettering
Here how it looks:
http://www.telwis.pl/graphic-lcd-for-utcomp-122x32-pix-p-128.html

Wodjno

06-12-2011, 08:31 PM

So when is Fitting day ?

swinks

07-12-2011, 02:30 PM

Prior Xmass? Gonna have few days off, let you know. Maybe mini meet?

swinks

15-12-2011, 10:33 PM

Right guys, some update on UTCOM.

1. IMPORTANT.
Once UTCOM fitted please disable display in "sleep" mode. Apparently with weak batteries it can cause to excessive drain of batteries and make them dead if vehicle remains stationary for few days.

2. EXTRA gadget.
If you customize welcome screen writting down LOGO GALANT, it will display nice dedicated logo :)

swinks

15-12-2011, 10:35 PM

My little request to any mod or admin...
Can title of this thread be amended to "Universal Trip Computer UTCOM - FAQ" please and moved to Interior/ICE part of forum as it's no longer subject to GB.

Thank you!

Nutter_John

15-12-2011, 10:44 PM

Done

swinks

15-12-2011, 11:29 PM

Thank you sir!

lateshow

17-12-2011, 12:48 PM

swinks

17-12-2011, 07:30 PM

Have no idea, but always you can plug your laptop via usb and try. Few minutes and you will see. :)

lateshow

18-12-2011, 10:28 AM

swinks

18-12-2011, 11:10 PM

Yeah, seems to work!! Nice one, was the first utcomp made to a galant? :) Then if they had LOGO LEGNUM too.

Another question. ADC1 and ADC2 seems to see the voltage too small or then they cant read it at all ??? Could ground potential differences cause something or is this a fault that is fixed in the later versions. Like my wideband is sending 5V and this only sees 3.8V

LOGO GALANT was made recently on demand from Polish Mitsi forum :)
Regarding reading ADC's I've send this question to Artur to clarify. IIRC, you have version 1.3, most of them didn't have wideband and map sensor readings, just stock narrowband. Just very few late units got this feature as beta versions of newer 2.0.
Hope that Artur will clarify soon.

lateshow

19-12-2011, 09:35 PM

Actually i got wideband working now. So i must have a beta version of newer 2.0. And I have the logo working too :) There seems to be slight differences on the AFR but i can modify the ax + b to match whatever i want :) So to conclude, im very happy with this product. Hopefully someday there will be better screens available for cold environments!

swinks

19-12-2011, 10:36 PM

That's good info then :)
Got confirmation from Artur, that all UTCOMs ver. 1.3 don't support either wideband or map. There were only 3 beta versions released for trial, and this feature was implemented in newer 2.0 versions.

Next year in summer will be released new version but it will be totally new hardware, so owners of recent 2.0 will get a chance to upgrade to new stuff by sending main units in exchange and some fee. Not sure if better screen be released.

Wodjno

22-12-2011, 11:01 PM

Thankyou Tomasz /notworthy For the time and effort you put into fitting the UTCOM to my car yesterday. /rally
Please also accept my apologies for my ignorance on what was in volved in the fitting of the UTCOM :sigh:I must admit that i haven't read all about the UTCOM, so didn't realise what was involved. If i had i would have had more stuff ready in advance to help with the fitting (Wodj :rifle:)
You did a splendid job and it was very much appreciated /yes
Also thanks for trying to fit the projector headlights. I am just sorry you had so much time wasted and then not to see them working. Thanks for your efforts and i'm sure when you get to the root of the issue, you will be back to finish the job :D

Also a BIG BIG Sorry to Mrs Swinks :kiss: For keeping Tomasz away from you all day long, when he should have been out Christmas Shopping with you :(

Wodj

swinks

22-12-2011, 11:23 PM

Wodjno

22-12-2011, 11:31 PM

Not a problem, always welcome The Fens Gang :)
Have you sorted software problem anyway? If not give me a txt so I can pop in and flash UTCOM with my notebook.
Regarding headlights, spare inverters already ordered and 2 hid ballasts too so we can finish job in January.

Not had a minute today to sort out software. been out shopping all day and now at work. Didn't even get time to sort my internet connection out /pan Will sort that tomorrow morning and get the software downloaded.
Mrs Wodj will have the car for work tomorrow, so won't be able to pop in and flash the Utcom :( but i should be able to get it dome myself if i get the software downloaded tomorrow /yes
Good work on the ordering of the needed parts for the headlights /woot2 Top Man :thumbsup: Let me know what i owe you and i'll sort it out straight away /yes

Cheers

Wodj

swinks

23-12-2011, 10:00 AM

Just found potential software issues.
It's about installing English language version of UTCOM soft. Problems may occur whilst unpacking downloaded file using different to Winrar programs.
Those who wish to download English language version of software must follow:
1. create folder "UTCOM" in your pc/laptop/notebook
2. go to the website http://www.telwis.pl/universal-trip-computer-utcomp-p-119.html?language=en
3. scroll down till you find link to download
4. download zip file to earlier created "UTOCOM" folder
5. unzip file to the same folder
6. you may get following contents in your "UTCOM"folder:
- zip file
- UTCOM.exe file
- .dll file
- "en" folder
7. "en" folder will be empty
If so...
8. move .dll file to "en" folder
9. remove zip file (you can save somewhere else or delete)
10. now in "UTCOM" folder should be:
- UTCOM.exe file
- "en" folder (with .dll file)
11. You can click .exe and software should run in English language version.

The issue is that dll file must be inside "en" folder.

Wodjno

03-01-2012, 11:48 PM

Nice 1 Tomasz /yes

Just downloaded :)
I'll Flash the Utcom tomorrow :D

swinks

05-01-2012, 12:13 PM

Another potential issue regarding software and flashing.
Once you launched UTCOM software and connect via USB, please check versions of your software and firmware.
Recently on manufacturer website is the newest soft ver 2.0.2. This will flash only last batch of our GB purchase.
Those who get earlier UTCOM require software version 2.0.1.
And here is link you can download one:
http://www.telwis.pl/downloads/software/utcomp_v2-0-1_EN.rar

Also for those who may purchase individually and have maybe old versions like 2.0.0 or 1.1.3 etc. You can seek soft support here:
http://www.telwis.pl/downloads/software/

Glenn, I think your flashing problem is down to soft/firmware compatibility.

Wodjno

05-01-2012, 06:49 PM

swinks

11-01-2012, 02:12 PM

Well being asked few times already so here are picture of possible alternative location of remote switch buttons:
1. Dash clock surround:
50577
50578
2. Central console/armrest:
50579
50580
50581
3. Gear lever surround:
50582
4. Door panel:
50583

Anyway... IMO much better that fiddling with a clock stock buttons.

zorglub

17-01-2012, 07:40 PM

can wait to see the OLED version !!!

psbarham

17-01-2012, 09:45 PM

0.2mpg out on the last tankful, pretty respectable if you ask me.

lateshow

19-01-2012, 11:15 AM

When installing this to clock's space be aware that that the connector is quite eager to loosen itself. I just had to take the whole thing out and push the connector back in. Propalbly some adhasive would be nice there.

As i've said before, I can get the exact consumption out of this device. When idling the engine takes about 1.5 litres per hour (hot idle). It was nice to see that whether you have D or N doesnt affect. And you can feel it pulling when you have D on if you hold it against brakes.

Another observation. Driving 80-90 km/h gets you to 8-8.5 l/100km and driving 100km/h (60mph) gets you to 9.5 l/100km :D

GalantOnly

20-02-2012, 07:06 PM

Hey Tomasz, can you see somewhere (maybe on the polish Galant forum), if there any information about where to find the injector pulses on 2.0 turbodiesel?

swinks

20-02-2012, 07:26 PM

OK, will ask if it's not yet described.
What on Earth got you Alex to own EA6x?? I think I can quote approx. 120 jokes instantly about 4D68 engines :)

GalantOnly

20-02-2012, 07:39 PM

I work as driving instructor couple days a week, Tomasz :)

Believe it or not, the EA6W can handle abuses from those amateurs quite well. And, of course, the clutch is very easy to use compared to petrols /yes

swinks

20-02-2012, 08:02 PM

Hi hi hi...

Just checked on Polish forum. Apparently UTCOM and Galant diesel is a no-no. It's because:
1. there is no such thing like injector signal
2. you can get signal for calculation from fuel timing selenoid but calculation will be way off accuracy because it also depends on:
- revs vs. vacuum/boost pressure
- intake pressure
- fuel temperature
- intake temperature
And kaczart said that Mitsi 4D68 setup is quite archaic and his UTCOM can't calculate fuel consumption (it requires making from scratch own maps fuel/load/rev etc.
Sorry.

GalantOnly

21-02-2012, 12:07 AM

Thanks, Tomasz... I can see the "injection timing solenoid" in the diagrams, but there's also the "injection amount solenoid" /Hmmm
Do you think that I will be a good idea to write to Telwis and ask about if this signal can be used, or is it 100% no-no? :)

Davezj

07-05-2012, 08:43 PM

ha anyone used the ADC1 and 2 inputs on the UTCOMP

i have a wideband signal and a boost sensor signal going in to them.

i have selected the type of input from the prop down list as wideband for adc1 and boost pressure sensor for adc2

you have to specify a fornula for the operation adc2 pressure =a*U+b and you enter a value for a= and b= but i am not sure what to fill in. the sensor is 0-3 bar and the voltage is 0-3V

the manual doesn't help either, it explains what to do if you connect the ATS sensor then completely misses out the ADC1 and ADC2.

swinks

07-05-2012, 09:15 PM

Davezj

07-05-2012, 09:46 PM

This works with PLX and Innovate wideband stuff, equation is:
AFR = 3.01*U + 7.35
where a=3.01 and b=7.35

As for boost/vacuum, I have got AEM map sensor so mine equation formula was:
BAR = 0.86*U - 1.43
where a=0.86 and b=-1.43
Also worked with Apexi stuff.

Dave are you sure your MAP sensor is 0-3V, not 0-5V?
Anyway, try inputs above and you will see if that helps.

i think the boost sensor will go to 5V but it is not usable as 3,4,5 bar are just not values that will ever be used on a vr4.

but thanks for the info, i will give it try tomorrow, i used you 0.398 vss signal and it give a very good speed representation of what speed it should be.
what injector value did you use?
are you still using stock injectors?
saves me going through the calibration process.

Davezj

07-05-2012, 09:58 PM

i presume i can download the latest version of software and firmware for the UTCOMP.

i read somewhere that any 2.0 hardware can have any 2.0.? software/firmware used with it. the current software version available IS 2.0.5 so i should be able to use that version.
is that correct?

swinks

08-05-2012, 08:49 AM

Dave my injector value is xxx609, standard injectors. You can use one and then after each filling up calibrate to match your vr4 behaviour.

Regarding flash, unfortunately you have to match firmware with software. Just like mentioned earlier, install Framework 4.0, try to download UTCOM version 2-0-1, unzip. Launch UTCOM, connect main board via usb. In software main page window you will see displayed versions of software and firmware used in UTCOM. If it's match then carry on, if not then download right soft.

Davezj

08-05-2012, 01:40 PM

cheers Tomasz.

Davezj

10-05-2012, 08:47 PM

hi guys has anyone else connected up a wideband input and boost sensor to there UTCOMP

i have a MTX-L and a Rspec boost sensor

i can't seem to get the equation correct to display anything even close to correct values displayed on the UTCOMP.

it will be dooable it is just a case of getting the right values.
i have tried the one s tomasz posted up and that did not help.
so i will have to experimaent with what will work or not as the case maybe.

swinks

10-05-2012, 09:59 PM

Dave, your wideband MTX-L must work with values posted by me. It's Innovate, and judging from pdf it's exactly the same equation in MTX-L and LC-1. In your case it's Analog Output 1 which gives 0-5V signal, 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR.
Also i UTCOM software, once you open "Advanced" tab, choose ADC1 (pin 8) or ADC2 (pin 9), depends on your connection, then once you scroll down, choose "wideband oxygen sensor", otherwise it will read narrowband.

Davezj

23-05-2012, 12:59 AM

cheers thomasz,
i did set the ADC1 to wideband and put the values you suggested in (a= 3.01 b= 7.35) and the displayed value just came up the a non senssible reading.

i will have to try again.

i will try the 0-5V setting and see if there is an option to set the start and stop point for 0V and 5V and use the 0=7.35, 5=22.4

then i will have to look at the boost equation as that doe not seem to be correct either.
i set ADC2 to boost/vacuum and use a=0.86 and b=-1.43 reading is way out.

the boost sensor is supposed to to be 0V = 0Bar, 1V= 1Bar, 2V=2Bar, 3V=3bar, so i think it is supposed to be an absolute pressure sensor, so when 1V = 1 bar =atmospheric pressure, so anything under 1v output is a vacuum reading.
well i think that is how it is supposed to work.

swinks

23-05-2012, 07:20 AM

Davezj

23-05-2012, 01:16 PM

Well, I think map sensor hasn't got arithmetic progression in his 0-5V output. Range 0-1V usually is defined as vacuum and 1v is 0 bar value. Anyway try google "map sensor equations" and it will come with some results.

Also just thought, maybe try swap adc 1 for adc 2. Don't know, but maybe by some luck yours inputs are predefined somehow.
Also it's worth to check if your MTX-L gives right reading 0-5V analog. In case of Innovate stuff it's an arithmetic progression, and using mentioned equation you'll get 3.01*0V + 7.35 = 7.35 AFR and 3.01*5V + 7.35 = 15.05 + 7.35 = 22.40 AFR.

Cheers Tomasz your a star!

the UTCOM is a great bit of kit, it is reading the boost and AFR inputs, i just have to comfigure the formulas and all will be well.
i am trying to work out how i can make the screen more visible, i believe there is a new LED screen available now or soon, once i have it configured, i think i will get one of them, if it is a direct swap out for the LCD screen.

adaxo

23-05-2012, 03:02 PM

You need to send unit to PL and get flashed by Telvis with new soft to be able of use new LED screen, its PITA I know, If you don't mind to wait a bit I could take your UTCOM with me on my holidays in PL and sort out flashing while I'm there.

swinks

23-05-2012, 06:00 PM

Davezj

23-05-2012, 11:06 PM

just thought i would let you know the AFR readout is working fine now, i had boost and afr input round the wrong way and was applying the boost equation to the afr signal.

so the only thing left is the boost reading, i tried the a = 0.86 and b = -1.43 and the the boost will not go over 3 psi.

swinks

24-05-2012, 06:29 AM

Dave try google for map sensor equations. I've seen quite few different depends what brand were used. Maybe one will work. As said, there are different map sensors characteristics so it's not easy to get correct one. Also you can mail your sensor manufacturer maybe they can supply you you with data sheet.

Davezj

24-05-2012, 05:27 PM

worked out it should be a=1 and b=-1 for pressure in Bar.

the sensor is as i expected 0-5V, -1Bar to 4 Bar

0V = -1Bar
1V = 0Bar
2V = 1Bar
3V = 2Bar
4V = 3bar
5V = 4Bar

not put the valves in yet but it should work.

Davezj

24-05-2012, 10:44 PM

well i reset my equation and used a = 1 and b = -1 and boost is reading great.

it even works when you tell the utcom to display the boost in PSI nice.

i think the main issue i had was finger trouble and set the ADC1 input with the ADC2 equation and vice versa.
bit of a muppety moment.

all good now.

i have to look at the fuel consumption part now. i will re-read the rest of this thread again as i think it is all explained quite well

VR457

25-05-2012, 10:28 PM

Yes, new OLED screen require main unit with firmware 2.0.5 onwards. Hence you have to send your main board to Telwis. Flash and update is free. OLED screen itself was approx. 30 GBP. Unfortunately there is only one colour option available now - blue/black, blue letters, black background.
I have fitted one and must say it's better. :)
So we can send off the group buy boards and £30 and get an updated version with OLED screen?

swinks

25-05-2012, 10:33 PM

So we can send off the group buy boards and £30 and get an updated version with OLED screen?
Yes. You can purchase new OLED screen (cost approx. 30 to 32 GBP) and send back your main unit (black box) for update firmware which is free. Also you will need to cover shipping back to UK costs.
Important is, that only newest version of firmware will work with OLED screens.

GalantOnly

23-03-2013, 02:40 AM

6091460915

Anyone else got those nice vertical lines in the middle on the OLED screens?

swinks

23-03-2013, 09:37 AM

Nope.
It's rather malfunction due to wiring issue or ambient cold temperatures.
Anyway, will search for you sir ;)

exevoowner

23-03-2013, 11:00 AM

must get me one of these lol

GalantOnly

23-03-2013, 11:50 AM

Nope.
It's rather malfunction due to wiring issue or ambient cold temperatures.
Anyway, will search for you sir ;)

This particular unit also began to reset itself every 3-4 time the engine is cranked. It didn't happend the first month after installation...:anxious:

I think, I'll try to swap this OLED ECU with old LED one and see, if problem persist

GalantOnly

23-03-2013, 01:25 PM

Anyway, will search for you sir ;)

Thanks, Tomasz. But I'm already correspond with Arthur from Telwis and he did provide me with quite worthy information about is issue today ;)

swinks

23-03-2013, 08:33 PM

Thanks, Tomasz. But I'm already correspond with Arthur from Telwis and he did provide me with quite worthy information about is issue today ;)
Oh... that's good because I was to contact him as well. He's very nice chap and sure he will provide you with solution.
I had similar issue back in time with LCD screen, switching off and on. Apparently it was due to shorting one of uninsulated live wires sticking back from multi-connector.

LudviG

21-04-2013, 06:57 AM

Yes, new OLED screen require main unit with firmware 2.0.5 onwards. Hence you have to send your main board to Telwis. Flash and update is free. OLED screen itself was approx. 30 GBP. Unfortunately there is only one colour option available now - blue/black, blue letters, black background.
I have fitted one and must say it's better. :)

Anyone know if there is any difference in the size of the OLED rather than the old one? I have not installed this yes (shame on me), but i got it built in a clock. But that is with the old screen, will i need to modify it more to fit the oled screen?

GalantOnly

21-04-2013, 12:54 PM

The OLED screen is smaller

martin71

28-10-2013, 10:07 AM

can we still get hold of these..???? would like one for my n/a v6 galoon...

Davezj

28-10-2013, 10:11 PM

just search on google for telwis UTCOM

martin71

28-10-2013, 11:25 PM

Thanks dave,just done that...cheers

swinks

26-11-2013, 05:29 PM

Latest update!

There is new version of software which allows to update firmware of UTCOM from user level via usb flash.
Software installer ver. 2.5.8 will available very soon on Telwis website (up to 4 working days)
This will update UTCOMs from group buy to 2.0.6 version which works with new OLED screens and has few new features.

Re-flash and updating software from 2.0.2 to 2.0.6 been done by me today as trial of new feature and it works ;)

Trolkar

29-07-2014, 08:49 PM

Hi all!

Just updated my utcomp to the latest firmware. Mainly because the clock was to quick. – It gained 5 min a week.

But unfortunately, my backup of the settings seems to be corrupt.
Right now I have some issues with:

RPM (way to high readings)
Voltage (To low)
Fuel consumption (It is very economical right now)
Clock correction

Would someone kindly take a screenshot of their settings? – Or just point me to the correct values?
I have tried to search the forum, but haven’t had any luck.

Bonus, if someone has a great splash screen, please feel free to send me a copy. – I’v lost a perfectly “VR4” logo to…

swinks

30-07-2014, 08:11 AM

Try first return to factory default settings. That should resolve your voltage problem, there is equation for voltage in the last screen of settings.
Can't recall any rpm feed to main unit. Maybe you mistaken one with vss (vehicle speed sensor).
IIRC, my vss was approx. 0.400.
Injector pulses (fuel consumption) require individual settining, mine was in range of "600" ish.
Once back home from work will check out my settings.

ersanalamin

23-08-2014, 03:32 PM

Hi Tomasz, is it possible to use the ATS (analog temperature sensor) as EGT sensor input? I need utcomp to display AFR, boost, EGT altogether

swinks

24-08-2014, 12:01 PM

Hi Tomasz, is it possible to use the ATS (analog temperature sensor) as EGT sensor input? I need utcomp to display AFR, boost, EGT altogether
I think so. EGT sensors are analog anyway. If sensor in question has signal output within the same range like i.e. coolant/oil sensors. All you need, is to get right equation for particular sensor and setup one into UTCOM.

ersanalamin

24-08-2014, 05:36 PM

I think so. EGT sensors are analog anyway. If sensor in question has signal output within the same range like i.e. coolant/oil sensors. All you need, is to get right equation for particular sensor and setup one into UTCOM.

Well I recheck the ATS setting on software setting, seem impossible due to max temperature was given 255 celcius by the utcomp producer. too shame, i am quite interested due to its simplicity and OEM style installation. could u please ask the creator to discuss about my need? I need it shows AFR, Boost, EGT, oil pressure. UTcomp at least provide 4 pin for ADC. best regards.

rayst

25-08-2014, 07:06 PM

Hello, from Russia!

Please tell me which Injector pulses (fuel consumption) right for 6a13tt engine?

Trolkar

25-08-2014, 07:10 PM

Around 0.000630 is a starting point :-)

rayst

25-08-2014, 09:01 PM

Thank You ;)

Corrected...

right defenition is 0.00630
;)

ersanalamin

24-09-2014, 02:51 PM

This is a good news, Arthur the UTCOMP creator, inform me a new developed UTCOMP prototype is in production. The new new UTCOMP will has all the previous feature and 2 additional analog input. it will suit amateur tuner that needs to see 4 analog gauge in performing at once in one display. I dont know the new dimension but i hope it still suit the digital clock housing.

ersanalamin

27-04-2015, 08:36 AM

The new version UTCOMP PRO already release. I have bought 1 unit. Great product

http://www.reveltronics.com/en/products/universal-trip-computer-utcomp

Grid

23-07-2015, 11:50 AM

ersanalamin

26-08-2015, 06:43 AM

And this is how UTComp 3 Pro OLED screen looks in the VR-4, installed in the usual place:

72995

The black plastic that goes between the front plexi and the clock PCB had to be removed, the clock PCB holder has to be modified slightly to fit the new OLED screen. All in all doable and looks good IMO.

I suppose you still used the 2.3 inch oled lcd right? coz i m fitting the 3.2 inch oled lcd and theres almost no space left for lcd to fit. Heres the mock up, looks good already. I ve done cut n fill job with the acrylic plastic taken from digital clock donor and will do the rest according to Tomasz guidance. still not complete 100%. I will post the final result as soon as possible. The UTCOMP still not mounted in the car yet, I am waiting just for the new wideband oxygen sensor replacement, and it will work as it intend to built.

billybobboot

26-08-2015, 08:10 AM

adaxo

26-08-2015, 09:50 AM

Ok im after new gauges, i know this means buyjng the sensors not a problem,
Will it read and be made to displaythe following on 1 screen
Afr wideband
Oil pressure
Oil temp
If needed boost but that is done from my hks anyways

Yes it's fully adjustable of what you want to see and where, it also can do warning sounds and with new egt module it can measure egt from 4 chanels

billybobboot

26-08-2015, 01:17 PM

Sweet looks like i have my new gauge.
Im asuming it just needs wiring to the sensors
And apart from the fitting is just wire it up and go?

Im also assuming i need gauges e.g. a aem afr or can you just put a wideband 02 sensor plumbed strait into this device?
As all i will use it to display will be afr and oil pressure pos egt front and back so 2 readings. As this can be made to fit where the clock goes it would look far nicer than 2-4 gauges made to fit the dash.

Grid

28-08-2015, 12:29 PM

I suppose you still used the 2.3 inch oled lcd right? coz i m fitting the 3.2 inch oled lcd and theres almost no space left for lcd to fit. Heres the mock up, looks good already. I ve done cut n fill job with the acrylic plastic taken from digital clock donor and will do the rest according to Tomasz guidance. still not complete 100%. I will post the final result as soon as possible. The UTCOMP still not mounted in the car yet, I am waiting just for the new wideband oxygen sensor replacement, and it will work as it intend to built.
I fitted the 3.2 inch version. It fits barely, but it does fit.

ersanalamin

28-08-2015, 01:52 PM

I fitted the 3.2 inch version. It fits barely, but it does fit.

Quite interesting comparing your lcd fitting with mine, theres no way SET knob still there if you use the 3.2 lcd. see the acrylic cutting? thats where the outer SET hole knob cut .I dont know with yours, maybe you use different way to fit the lcd. I also get rid of H and M knob hole. theres no point to keep stock lcd display while you get the same feature from UTCOMP.

giblet

28-08-2015, 09:39 PM

I fitted the 3.2 inch version. It fits barely, but it does fit.

Any pics?

Bobby~d

29-08-2015, 11:19 AM

This^^^ would love to install one of these in mines.

Grid

29-08-2015, 02:41 PM

Any pics?

Took it apart just for you guys :-)

That is how the PCB sits:
73213

Stock button PCB s in its original position, and the display PCB sits partially behind it. Quite a bit of Dremel work was required here, some of it visible in this picture:

73214

With the front plexi in place this is how it looks:

73215

The corner of the display PCB had to be cut for it to fit! This fit is indeed tight.

And a picture from the back, display tape and cable with the button wires visible:

73216

I was in a rush doing mine, so it's not perfect. The PCB doesn't sit in place on its own, I didn't design any clips for it. It is however held in place by the compression force between the dash and the clock assembly (the cut edge rests against the car dash).

The other downside is impossible to mitigate - the dremelling on the right "wing" of the clock assembly takes away a lot of the mechanical strength. So don't plan on pulling this puppy out a lot.

ersanalamin

29-08-2015, 04:42 PM

Took it apart just for you guys :-)

That is how the PCB sits:
73213

Stock button PCB s in its original position, and the display PCB sits partially behind it. Quite a bit of Dremel work was required here, some of it visible in this picture:

73214

With the front plexi in place this is how it looks:

73215

The corner of the display PCB had to be cut for it to fit! This fit is indeed tight.

And a picture from the back, display tape and cable with the button wires visible:

73216

I was in a rush doing mine, so it's not perfect. The PCB doesn't sit in place on its own, I didn't design any clips for it. It is however held in place by the compression force between the dash and the clock assembly (the cut edge rests against the car dash).

The other downside is impossible to mitigate - the dremelling on the right "wing" of the clock assembly takes away a lot of the mechanical strength. So don't plan on pulling this puppy out a lot.

I see, in my mock up, I like to place the lcd balanced, centered in the middle and get rid of stock digital clock knob/button and hole. and i dont have to cut the dash :D, will take more pics to show how the lcd sits in its place

Grid

30-08-2015, 08:25 AM

I also get rid of H and M knob hole. theres no point to keep stock lcd display while you get the same feature from UTCOMP.

With my approach I kept the H, M and SET buttons and soldered the UTCOMP button wires to the factory button PCB. That way the UTCOMP is controllable from the stock buttons and the stock look is preserved. I wanted to keep it that way - when ignition is off nobody is the wiser. I have plans to replace the stock button rubber with similar looking pieces of plastic, and put microswitches underneath. The stock buttons do not have a nice feel.

Grid

30-08-2015, 10:40 PM

Im also assuming i need gauges e.g. a aem afr or can you just put a wideband 02 sensor plumbed strait into this device?
As all i will use it to display will be afr and oil pressure pos egt front and back so 2 readings. As this can be made to fit where the clock goes it would look far nicer than 2-4 gauges made to fit the dash.

You cannot attach a wideband O2 probe directly to this unit. However you don't need external gauges either. You need a Wideband O2 controller and hook up the wideband 0-5V output from the controller to the UTCOMP. I only have experience with Zeitronix and it is set up this way - the gauges are optional, you have a controller box which drives the O2 sensor and a linear 0-5V output.

Fuly agree about this looking nicer than 2-4 external gauges.

For EGT you will need an EGT amplifier (EGT-K from Reveltronics) - goes up to 4 channels.

billybobboot

01-09-2015, 07:50 AM

Cool ill look into this thanks for info

Davezj

01-09-2015, 05:46 PM

I had my wideband connected to my UTCOMP until the UTCOMP stopped working. You just have to scale it correctly in the UTCOMP software I had my boost gauge on it as well not as nice as a mechanical pressure fed boost gauge but it was ok.

Davezj

01-09-2015, 05:48 PM

This EGT amplifier sounds like 4 instrumentation amps In a box driven by the k type thermocouples

ersanalamin

09-09-2015, 05:52 AM

Davezj

09-09-2015, 01:04 PM

What happen with ur UTCOMP dave? is it easily broken?

not sure the screen just went blank one day. so i removed it.

Grid

10-09-2015, 10:00 AM

not sure the screen just went blank one day. so i removed it.

Was it more than 2 years old? If not then it is (was) covered under warranty.

My UTComp Pro is working great so far - even though the fuel consumption figures are just plain scary. I try not to look at it.

Davezj

10-09-2015, 10:43 AM

Mine was in a box for 18 months before I fitted it and then failed after about 6 months use. So was out of warranty. It might just be a failed screen which is replaceable but I have never been bothered to do it, as if I replace it for an OLED screen, that requires the module to be sent back to the manufacturer to have the firmware upgraded.
So it is pain in the backside to do. If I want one in the future I think I will just go out and buy a new one.

adaxo

10-09-2015, 11:08 AM

Davezj

10-09-2015, 11:15 AM

That a thought, is it easy to access at the moment?

adaxo

10-09-2015, 05:31 PM

That a thought, is it easy to access at the moment?

Very easy as I do rewiring and adding few sensors so its all on the floor now

Davezj

10-09-2015, 10:27 PM

i will have to dig it out and bring it round on sunday.

giblet

11-09-2015, 01:35 PM

i will have to dig it out and bring it round on sunday.

Was just about to drop you a PM. I'll be at Adam's on Sunday, can I get the bumper from you then? I'll bring the old lifters if you will want them?

Davezj

11-09-2015, 03:10 PM

Yes
Replied to pm

ersanalamin

13-12-2015, 03:52 AM

Hi I am about to install the UTCOMP 3.0 pro 3.2 inch. Anybody can show me the way how to wire the fuel level sensor that can be shown into UTCOMP? by the way anybody knows what is analog sensor high volage input 0-30V made for?

Davezj

13-12-2015, 10:56 AM

It alway used to be 0-5v for the analogue inputs.
Butt that was for the version 1 and 2.
It will all be explained in the instruction the previous version had really good instruction.

ersanalamin

13-12-2015, 01:05 PM

It alway used to be 0-5v for the analogue inputs.
Butt that was for the version 1 and 2.
It will all be explained in the instruction the previous version had really good instruction.

Hi Dave, Artur said to me this

"30V input is used e.g. for fuel level signals in tracks (0-24V signal) but it maybe used also in car's where you have 0-12V fuel level signal (not 0-5V).
You need to find wire with voltage signal and check what voltage is for full tank and what voltage is for empty tank. Next you should connect this signal to AdcX 0-5V or 0-30V and calibrate readings in Settings"

I can not find anything about fuel tank level wiring in previous UTCOMP manual book, and in the UTCOMP 3.0 Pro mention few times about fuel tank level. should I wire the fuel tank level specifically according to artur said or already given by the system like PB/ON?

If i should wire the fuel tank level sensorr, which wire I should tap? cable on fuel pump sender or cable in dash fuel tank indicator? is it 0-5V or 0-30V?

swinks

13-12-2015, 03:05 PM

Ersan, previous UTCOMs hadn't got fuel level input signal. Fuel tank level was calculated based on injector signal and fuel tank capacity defined by user. So, just like in old version, you have fuel consumption taken from fuel injector and vss signal, then those data plus fuel tank capacity gave you fuel level.
Thas solution required tho to remember each time filling up tank to put numbers into UTCOM.

Version 3.0 Pro give some chance that if fuel tank floater gives analogue output (range 0-24v depends on type of vehicle), then after initial setup (see above) and set up fuel consumption, then UTCOM can co-relate initial tank floater voltage with amount of fuel input by user. Then even if you forget to set how much fuel you filled in at petrol station, floater signal will give you rough estimate.
That's how I understand this additional feature, maybe wrong. :)

Another question is to find out floater signal, voltage and... is it progressive, or different equation? Or is it just a switch 0>1 (full>empty) Legnums. It may simply don't work.

Remember, UTCOM is designed for all broad range of vehicles, some features won't apply to Legnum.

ersanalamin

13-12-2015, 03:23 PM