Clutch job over next few days (again!!!)

[adaxo]

Just got delivered new clutch and input shaft bearing for a Legnum, I will start to change this tomorrow but (as usual:inquisiti) got few doubts/questions,

- I probably will need to have flywheel skimmed, anyone know where in Manchester area this could be done properly?? and it has to be rebalanced after??

- How long new clutch need to be driven to bed in??, bog standard evo Exedy kit no MBK2084

- I read the procedure how to shimming the bearings in gbox but if anybody got any hints, tips or anything to add how to do this properly, please say now, any advice will be appreciated and may I could do some pictures of the process for future reference. (cant find any evo gbox ones in the net)


that's it for now, thanks for any inputs.

[Wodjno]

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?62584-Jesus-Ninja-s-clutch-change-write-up

[adaxo]

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?62584-Jesus-Ninja-s-clutch-change-write-up


Thanks :thumbsup:, but I take the gbox out b4 so I'm pretty confident in knowledge how to take this out and put back in, :d , so far only this three things mentioned above not let me to have a proper peaceful sleep over this night. :|

[Davezj]

Adam do you want that motor bike jack, I can drop it round tonight if you want.
It is no problem.

[adaxo]

Thanks Dave, I think:laugh:, I can manage without this jack and what's worrying me is that your jack its fairly big, so I could struggle with space for all bits from under bonnet plus all my jacks and tools, you know how tiny is my garage/haz or should I say, how its cluttered with all sorts of mostly crap/duh?

anyway, if you get boring, you can still come and have a tea or something, cheers

[Davezj]

Thank for the offer, but I have to pass as I am up at 6.00am in the morning.

I will ask about the LPG in a different thread.

[Nick Mann]

Sorry, I'd love to help but it is something I haven't done yet. Where is the re-assembly write up?

[adaxo]

Here http://www.evoscan.com/manuals/Evo9/GR00000500-22B.pdf , page 22B-10 is what looks pretty straight forward, (at last in theory)

[low_vr4]

Think new clutches take 800-1000km to be properly bedded in

[adaxo]

Ok, time for a small update.

Car is eventually put together after all that time and I think is worth to share what you can expect when try to fix manual gearbox properly. All info below is only MY way and is not by any means approved by MMC.

Clutch kit what I chose is completely bog standard evo 7,8,9 exedy MBK2084, bought here (http://www.superhids.co.uk/clutches-and-lightweight-flywheels/mitsubishi-lancer-evo/exedy-standard-oem-clutch-kit-evo-7-evo-8-and-evo-9-mbk2084-.html)
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The reason why I pick this clutch was mainly that I drive my vr4 on daily basis around Manchester and drive a 'civil' car on 4 puk pro shop lida clutch was PITA, manage slow traffic speed was unbearable and judger was unreal (at least by my standards), so after much swearing and complains made by my miss I decide to go standard and WHAT A CHANGE!!! I cant remember (since manual conversion) to enjoy drive vr4 like I do now, its transform a car completely from harsh/judder/clunking POS to 'like new car' felling.
So far I've done 100 miles so cant say anything how that clutch manage torque at WOT but hope it will last for few thousand miles.

OK, lets back to the gbox shimming, I read about that process on various forums (mlr, evo123, youtube etc) but cant find any pictures of the exact process so here we go:

first of all you need to split the gbox (obviously), very easy (much easier than 2wd gbox), just unbolt everything around and gbox split with a bit of pressure, then you need to remove two races of output shaft and diff bearings from gbox case and put them back on bearings (or if you change bearings you can throw old races to the bin), put a little bit of grease and stick around 10 mm long and 1.5 mm OD solder on top of the bearings (two/three 'sticks' of solder on each bearing) then fit back half case and bolt back up to required torque.
Now you need to split gbox again and measure thickness of squeezed solder and chose the right thickness of the shims (about 20 sizes to chose from), and here is a little tip, the shims are available ONLY through a dealer AND is a 10-14 DAYS SPECIAL ORDER ONLY, so bare in mind that you end up without a car for a bit unless you contact with very keen guys like Nick Mann and richy rich and they help you to source shims and even supply the right ones (THANKS)

All details you can get from manual supply in link above, here is just few main ones

-input shaft bearing end float/play 0.05-0.17 mm
-output shaft bearing preload 0.13-0.18 mm
-diff bearing preload 0.05-0.11 mm

Below is a few pictures done during the process so if any one not feel to confident have a look and see it is not that difficult as it seems.

5293052931529325293352934529355293652937

[Nick Mann]

Nice one Adam! Considering this myself too now.

[adaxo]

One more thing to consider that you need something like this to remove bearing races (middle picture)

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[adaxo]

Nice one Adam! Considering this myself too now.

Well worth doing, gears feel much firmer/easier to operate now.

[BraindG]

Looks good Adam, glad to hear you are happier with the way its driving now!

I do have a question though, on several occasions now i have read about getting flywheel skimmed, is this just for standard flywheel? uprated? I didnt do this for the spec kit i got.

Thanks

[adaxo]

AFAIK skimmed flywheel makes new clutch plate wear evenly from both sides, its very common process (usually incl in every clutch job) in PL, not very common here in UK. After I remove my old clutch and inspect flywheel it seems in good state and because of lack of places who skim fly wheel around me I decide not do that and it seems fine.

[Nick Mann]

I was under the impression that the only reason to skim a flywheel is to provide a flat surface for a new clutch. If the flywheel is new, then there is no point as the surface is flat anyway.

[BraindG]

Ok cool, thanks for clarifying.

[SEAN-NZ]

just wandering, hard to find on net, but what is shimming? and whats the purpose of it?

[adaxo]

Basically is to set right amount of pre load (on diff and output shaft bearings) and end play on input shaft bearing due to slight differences between each case/shafts assembly.
More info here http://www.evo123.net/showthread.php?t=6524
and here http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=17637

[hbkuk1]

Ok looks like a doable job is there nowhere where a shim kit can be bought with a selection?

[adaxo]

I didn't find any aftermarket shims which is not surprising really as demand for this type of parts is probably so low that only main mitsubishi parts suppliers make them me think. Funny bit is when I spoke with few gbox refurbished 'specialist' as was hoping that they may stock shims, none of them have a clue what I'm talking about.

[hbkuk1]

Then how the hell do they rebuild gearboxes very strange

[Davezj]

Badly would be my guess.

[hbkuk1]

What flywheel did you use that clutch on? I've got the same situation to be honest a snachy juddery act item on a evo lightweight fly and a nm adapter thinking of going back to oem how did your clutch hold up?

[adaxo]

Small update, hbkuk1 I use pro shop lida light fly, and clutch just taken out today looks like that

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Im sad now, clutch not done 20k miles and is just about 3 years old, not sure what was causing this to happen and even worst not know what to with it and what to pick up next, want my car to be nicely drivable so all puck and competition on/off type clutches are not an option, get the same? not know :undecided

[hbkuk1]

Wow so a standard one is out of the question...... I have been looking at exedy stage 1 seems to be fairly oem feeling but 40% stronger

[Nick Mann]

What make is the clutch? My competition clutch stage 2 seems to be okay, slightly judder at low revs when pulling away from a standstill but mostly no problem.

[Adam.Findlay]

3 years /20k miles is not bad longevity for a stock clutch when your pumping a heap more power through it and launching etc.

[adaxo]

What make is the clutch? My competition clutch stage 2 seems to be okay, slightly judder at low revs when pulling away from a standstill but mostly no problem.

Its oem exedy exact that one (http://www.superhids.co.uk/clutches-and-lightweight-flywheels/mitsubishi-lancer-evo/exedy-standard-oem-clutch-kit-evo-7-evo-8-and-evo-9-mbk2084-.html)
You see, I know ex-owner of the vr4 with apparently exactly the same clutch as yours and he's get rid of vr4 as could not cope with is day to day driving, it may due to skills or expectations. Actually I may have a go in this car as its still around and see myself how its feels.

[SEAN-NZ]

theres a compitition clutch in mine, doesnt really shudder, slips alright when you want it to, just a bit heavy in traffic, and a bit harsh with a cold engine, Gly could probably tell you more about the clutch

[adaxo]

It may be a daft idea but is there a chance to replace only damaged bit with springs as rest of it seems ok Im sure i read somewhere that is possible to upgrade sprung part for one with more clamping force, i think it was Steve fron ozvr4 offer that so it may be possible to change my boken bit for something stronger?

[adaxo]

Right i dig through whole internet :laugh: and so far i pick three options

get exedy 'pink' (http://www.superhids.co.uk/clutches-and-lightweight-flywheels/mitsubishi-lancer-evo/exedy-uprated-organic-racing-clutch-kit-pink-box-evo-7-evo-8-and-evo-9-uk-and-import-all-variants-mk04h601.html) for 331.99 +post
get one off TME_Steve (http://www.ozvr4.com/threads/tme-clutch-kits.14749/) for about 354 plus post two ways
get just a friction plate for god knows how much as I didn't manage to find any selling separate online

option one
+ available straight off the shelf
- not much stronger than stock
option two
+ much stronger than stock
- long waiting time for post and double the cost as I need to send my pressure plate back
option three
+ cheapest
- cant find any sellers and it will end up as my current set probably


btw Adam.Findlay do you think that my current clutch give up from abuse or its may something else help? my input shaft bearing was rattly for long time so maybe that's part of this failure one more thing, which I'm not sure about yet, can you tell me what's the purpose of big shims/washers in between fly and crank/bolts as they differ in between auto/man and I'm pretty sure I bolt manual fly using auto fly shims/washers as at that time I didn't know they are different.

[swinks]

Exedy "pink" is IMO quite soft clutch. For stock power in Evo pretty OK and very good to drive. I had one in my E8 for 13 months (4 mths of my ownership) and replaced one due to increase in power and torque. Laying in a loft upstairs, plenty of life left, can be yours for 100 quid or 150 (with E8 stock flywheel), pictures on demand :)

As for HD clutches, lots of people going for ACT "organic" one. In general this clutch has outstanding good feedback, as "stock" feeling and enormous torque capability.
Here is the link:
http://www.indigo-gt.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=161_167_243&products_id=3739

Recently I'm user of 6-puck clutch (rated 600 lbft), finaly got civilized feeling after 2k miles of bedding and replacement of all engine/gearbox mounts for urethane solid one. Apparently these clutches don't like "engine" movement ;) hence judder.

[hbkuk1]

The one I have is an act organic hdss and I it's been a good clutch lots of launches on it been in car maybe 4 years but let me assure you it does not feel stock at all!
I'm thinking of going exedy stage 1 anyone got this one?

[adaxo]

I have it then. Without fly please. Thanks

[Davezj]

That sounds like a plan from swinks ,get you back up and running with the same feel as you had before.

[adaxo]

That sounds like a plan from swinks ,get you back up and running with the same feel as you had before.

Yep and looks like it not make a big dent in my wallet too.

[swinks]

Yep and looks like it not make a big dent in my wallet too.
Adam, I'm at work now, tomorrow will take some pictures and you will decide. Anyway, if happy I'll ship one and then in-situ you will judge if happy with it, then you'll pay :)

BTW, no release bearing.

[swinks]

The one I have is an act organic hdss and I it's been a good clutch lots of launches on it been in car maybe 4 years but let me assure you it does not feel stock at all!

Yes, it's harder, but still you can do "half-cluch" play, where in 4 or 6-puck it's not likely.

[adaxo]

Adam, I'm at work now, tomorrow will take some pictures and you will decide. Anyway, if happy I'll ship one and then in-situ you will judge if happy with it, then you'll pay :)

BTW, no release bearing.

That's sounds great, have you got my address?

[swinks]

That's sounds great, have you got my address?
I'm afraid not. Can you PM me?

[adaxo]

Pm on the way

[swinks]

Pm on the way
OK, had to clean up message storage, forgot that as non-member there is very little allowance :), can you try to send PM again, please?

[adaxo]

OK, had to clean up message storage, forgot that as non-member there is very little allowance :), can you try to send PM again, please?

done

[hbkuk1]

Well worth doing, gears feel much firmer/easier to operate now.

Did you change both bearings? Each end of the shaft? Or just one?

[adaxo]

Did you change both bearings? Each end of the shaft? Or just one?

Yes I change both bearings on input shaft, unfortunately I didn't change other 4 but pre load them with shims as new ones and they last not even a 1k miles.


Can anyone tell me which way big washers on both sides of fly should be bolted? as they not even and it must be a reason for it.

[Davezj]

Nick Mann will probably have an answer for this, although i think he uses a evo flywheel not a after market VR4 fitment one.

[Nick Mann]

There is an exploded diagram somewhere, maybe the gearbox pdfs, that shows the order and orientation of the washers.

[hbkuk1]

Yes I change both bearings on input shaft, unfortunately I didn't change other 4 but pre load them with shims as new ones and they last not even a 1k miles.


Can anyone tell me which way big washers on both sides of fly should be bolted? as they not even and it must be a reason for it.

Ok make sense to do them all.
I have a nm spacer too I know the washer you mean I can't remember which way these go sorry

[adaxo]

There is an exploded diagram somewhere, maybe the gearbox pdfs, that shows the order and orientation of the washers.

All what i manage to find is this but its still not clear to me which way this big washers/spacers no 5 and 7 should go, did you see any better diagram somewhere?


72987

[Davezj]

I was having a chat with Adam about this and the washers a sprung steel and they have a curved section at the outer edge of the washer. So if you fit them one way the washer will touch the fly wheel around the outer edge of the washer and create a small void between the fly wheel and the washer, fit it the other way and the washer face touches the fly wheel and the curver section at the outer edge of the washer curves away from the fly wheel into free space .
The crank pulley is smaller than the washer, so if you fit it with the curve towards the crank pulley it actually goes outside of the edge of the pulley.
This Is just a little more info to confirm the issue.
Now we can somise which way are supposed to be fitted from a logical point of view but Adam needs to know for sure which way round the go.

[adaxo]

Thanks Dave :thumbsup: basically question is, should they act as a damper or should the be solid? if they should be solid why mitsi make them in such an odd shape?


btw still struggling like **** to find a workshop who can skim my fly, shocking. Any one know any decent place? not matter if I have to post it as long as its done!

[Davezj]

what about the place that got your head skimmed, is it the same process.

[adaxo]

It requires different tool but will visit them and ask if they not do it they may point me in right direction, thing it they in Stretford so not so easy to get to in hours what Im free to go.

[hbkuk1]

Are the input shaft bearings the same both ends of the shaft? And what's the best place to get them please?

[Adam.Findlay]

Are the input shaft bearings the same both ends of the shaft? And what's the best place to get them please?

no they are different.
any bearing supplier should be able to get ones to suit. download the W5M51 service manual.

[adaxo]

What Adam says, but its v23 of common 6306 bearing and yes its easy to get 6306 bearing BUT not v23 of it, best bet would be mitsi dealers or amayama.

[hbkuk1]

Ok last question are evo ones the same? Like here?
https://www.evo-parts.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1059_1127

[adaxo]

Ok last question are evo ones the same? Like here?
https://www.evo-parts.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1059_1127

Yes they are the same


Small update, I eventually find a very good place who do heads and they did skim my fly, proper old school bloke in even older workshop, whole £25 later my fly is ready to go back on. Swinks clutch arrive too, and actually my previous one was exactly the same as this one.

7299672997729987299973000

[swinks]

Swinks clutch arrive too, and actually my previous one was exactly the same as this one.


Yhmmm... good or bad?

[adaxo]

Yhmmm... good or bad?

I was following seller description of my previous one (http://www.superhids.co.uk/clutches-and-lightweight-flywheels/mitsubishi-lancer-evo/exedy-standard-oem-clutch-kit-evo-7-evo-8-and-evo-9-mbk2084-.html)


Exedy Standard OEM Clutch Kit - EVO 7, EVO 8 & EVO 9

Or your clutch was OE not 'Pink' not sure.

TBH I'm not sure failure of previous one was due to abuse, I may launch it one or twice but cmmon its just over 300BHP and about 500Nm. I think it give up due to rattly/play on input shaft.


btw any chance you still have wave spring for it? asking as I will send my old pressure plate to TME Steve for upgrade and it will be handy to have complete set.

[swinks]

No wave spring here, just flywheel left.
Oh, I see...
It's Evo 8-9 OEM clutch for MR and FQ series, should cope with power and torque risen up to 400 mark.

BTW, pink ones (pressure plate) are double plate or paddle ones, not organic. ;)

[adaxo]

When you mention 'pink' (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?62955-Clutch-job-over-next-few-days-(again!!!)&p=803254&viewfull=1#post803254) I was hoping its that one (http://www.superhids.co.uk/clutches-and-lightweight-flywheels/mitsubishi-lancer-evo/exedy-uprated-organic-racing-clutch-kit-pink-box-evo-4-evo-5-and-evo-6-uk-and-import-all-variants-mk03h601.html) but never mind, it is uprated one over OE and for this price I'm happy with what I got off you, hopefully with new bearings on input shaft it will last longer.

[Davezj]

Ok, here is an update on the orientation of the spacers on the clutch side and the crank side of the flywheel.
I removed a gear box and flywheel from an engine today the flywheel had never been removed from the car well that is what we think.
The spacer on the crank side cups the crank shaft, so the beveled edge of the spacer does not contact anything.

The spacer on the clutch side sit flat against the fly wheel with bevel side not contacting anything. The third spacer has the sticking out bit facing the clutch.

I will post up some pictures of the spacers when I get home, but for those in the know as to what the spacer look like this might come as bit of a surprise.

[Nick Mann]

That's always what I thought. I couldn't see a reason to make that a sprung spacer. You don't want to give the flywheel a chance of running out of true.

[Davezj]

It is odd that the manufacturer would use spring steel to make a spacer and shape to have bevel on it when it is not used. Just a normal flat spacer would do the same job as only the flat pat of the spacers are in contact with the flywheel.
Unless it was just a spacer from the existing parts bin that had been used before and they had 10000 on the shelf and it would do the job.
But why make something that could be fitted the wrong way round.
Bizarre.

here is a video of me removing the spacers from the flywheel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jpjU_q6a73s

[adaxo]

Bloody hell, im back to square one AGAIN.

My "new" clutch is slipping, its really odd one as i not even did 500 miles on it, what could kill it soo quickly? What i did it's to let my miss do a school runs, every day once a day car has been driven 0.6 mile to and 0.6 mile back from school, is that could kill clutch? Any way to stop this slipping without taking gbox out? I really not want to take it out :furious3: again.

[Nick Mann]

That shouldn't kill the clutch unless your missus has atrocious clutch slipping requirements. Is there an oil leak from the input shaft? Or excessive grease? Is the biting point high or low?

[adaxo]

She's rather normal, clutch usage wise, at least /lol , what annoying me that she's quite hard on throttle on cold engine/tubs, but this aside, clutch pedal seems normal as always has been, plan of attack is to get inspection cover off and check clutch plate nuts if they still tight, i used thread lock, so im doubt they lose, may be able to finger check if there's any oil.
Did have slipping 6puk clutch b4 caused by pinhole in coolant pipe pissing straight on clutch through top hole in gbox case.
Did run car over 100 miles today and was trying to get some friction material off clutch disc by reducing from 5th to 3th at about 80 mph but that didn't work, it doesn't smell clutchy at all.
I assume there's not other components in drive train that could fail and give slipping clutch symptoms? Like in transfer or such?

Edit. Checks through inspection flap failed miserably, been only able to see back of fly so still not know if bolts become loose or not.

[Nick Mann]

5000rpm launch staying at biting point for plenty of slippage helps remove a layer of clutch!

[Davezj]

Adam I am on away on holiday at the moment until Wednesday but when I get back I can bob round and get boroscope in the clutch fork slot and take a look around in there you should be able to see the clutch spring cover plate bolts through there.
You might even be able to do it if you take the slave cylinder off and remover the rubber cover completely if you are desperate to do it now.
Just a thought

[adaxo]

Good point Dave, completely forgot about your scope, its best for this sort of diagnose. Nick Mann I will try to launch it few times as last attempt to fix it b4 taking all thing apart and buy new clutch, but need to be sure that some follow me with rope in case something fail apart.
Im really getting fed up of this manual.

Btw Nick, do you still have some washers to adapt evo fly? As if I need new clutch I will get new whole lot with fly.

[Davezj]

I do have a vr4 clutch exedy one the same as you have fitted I believe. if want to take a look at it before you go and buy a new one just in case it is any good, I have the stage 3 new 6 puk friction plate for a vr4 clutch. Supposed to be ceramic/copper the same style foxdie used to have in his car and he loved the feel of it. But it is part of the manual conversion kit I have.
But I suppose anyone doing a manual conversion will probably want to buy a complete new clutch anyway so maybe it would be better to sell it some point without the clutch.

Let me know if you want to bob round when I get back, or better still I can bring it round to yours with the borascope and the ni cad battery fixing gear I have so I can see if I can revive you batteries at the same time.
Kill 3 birds with one stone so to speak.
Let me know mate.

[adaxo]

Sure I've be interested in any solution to bring me back on road, and you know that you always more than welcome to bob over, just let me know when it suits you.

I may take it apart tomorrow, fork rubber, and prepare every thing for bore scope inspection.

Cheers Dave

[Davezj]

Just remember I am not back until Thursday 17th March

[Nick Mann]

I think that I still have some.

[elnevio]

An excuse to launch! Doesn't get much better than that, lol!! :D /rally

[adaxo]

Small update, take fork rubber off and try to tighten up clutch bolts, they all tight, I even managed to broke one hex key so not issue there, let's see whats going on tomorrow with Davezj bore scope but im sure it needs to be taken off and changed again :sick:

[Davezj]

i will pop round after work tomorrow are you working tomorrow or is it your mid week day off.

let me know when is good time to pop round.

[adaxo]

i will pop round after work tomorrow are you working tomorrow or is it your mid week day off.

let me know when is good time to pop round.

I will call you when on my way back, should be about 4-5ish, to avoid traffic you can pop over later if you wish like 7ish?
On side note, to bring myself to actually want to do this job I bought an e8 gbox last night, so looking forward to get 1st 2nd and 5th ratios changed over.

[vr4drifta]

just read this thread I'm glad I did I have a conversion to do in a few weeks.

[Davezj]

Probably pop over 7 ish for traffic I will bring you impact driver back as well.

[adaxo]

Dave pop in yesterday with his camera and selection of clutches /GJ, we have a look at clutch and all seems to be ok, we check all bolts holding clutch, they are there tight, so not really find out why is give so quickly, most common sense conclusion was that driven car 2x half a mile a day for 6 months is no good and that probably what's kill it.

Worst bit is to chose right patch for another steps, want car to hold 500Nm+ and be drivable as a daily with occasional blast at 3sisters. Expecting much?

On Mon I will see local guys playing with they 500BHP supras on drag strips as, after quick chat over phone, they know local company which specialise in customisation of clutches, they can change sprung bit to stronger ones as are able to supply/rebuilt worn/damaged clutch plates to much stronger stuff, looking forward for mon, will keep you updated.

[TAR]

Just re-read this thread.

Sorry to hear you are having clutch issues again Adam.

Its not entirely clear from the posts what clutch you are using now? Did you get a new friction plate and pressure plate?

In your original failure, the spring which broke is part of the friction plate damping, its designed to ease the transition from off to on preventing a shock to engine and gearbox.
The clamping force applied to the friction plate is the important bit and that is controlled by the pressure plate. If the pressure plate is second hand, that may be what is causing the clutch to slip.

Its also possible that the friction plate has glazed which again could cause it to slip. Its important to bed in the clutch to stop this occurring.

I'm sure you know all this, but thought I would say it anyway :happy:

[adaxo]

TAR I'm currently running same clutch as in first posts but got them second hand with almost no wear, currently reading through gbox section on mlr to see what's good and what's bad atm, but its even more confusing as lots and lots of guys said that OE clutch last 50-80k on slightly moded evos and lots of them has been changed due to upgrades not actual wear.

Anyway small update, Im REALLY impress, 03/29/2016 15:17 parcel posted from Osaka, 04/01/2016 11:27 parcel on my dining table /JawDroppi I wish some local companys work this fast.

tadaa

74967

Hoping to have time tomorrow to swap them over and fit back to box and order shims, Thursday make clutch decision, looks like there's light in the tunnel that I may drive my vr4 to japfest on new clutch box combo /Banana

[adaxo]

Saga update, last Thursday I went to see recommended to me by drag strip queens :D Calders Clutch (http://www.calderclutch.co.uk/)
Walk in and put on counter my old damaged exedy which you seen earlier in this thread, guy just walk in and with smile on his face said 'oh another busted evo' now Im stunned as he just glance on it for maybe 2 seconds and has been at least 5 meters away, so this was a deal breaker to me as it seems like he knows his job.

So we start chatting of what Im after and what I use car for, drag, track, daily, he didn't push me to most expensive option, he understand of what I want and explain me what he can do for me, so Im really impressive with his service especially that he ring me next day (Friday yesterday) and said its ready for pick up, I couldn't collect it yesterday so been there today.

Upon arrival today at precisely 8:30 (they just open) he give me refurb mitsi clutch disc with some extrasupernasadevelopedoutofthisworld lining, basically its some kind of kevlar copper mix, and he also give me refurb and strengthen up by fitting extra spring clutch plate, and he throw new bearing to the kit, now its /JawDroppi bit as we didn't discuss cost of his brilliant service, I ask what's the damage, bearing in mind that bog standard exedy is £300, competition cluth £410, ACT £550, and then, he said £80, I ask him again r you sure? he said yes so I paid and back home RESULT


Now really looking forward to fit it and see what's what, sure I will update this as me think business like this are well worth supporting, so far.

Of course i have some pictures of boring clutch.

749927499374994749957499674997

[adaxo]

Patient safely arrive for major surgery

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Donor parts waiting for stitching up.

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Tools ready for action

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Thanks Davezj for let me use your brilliant inpact wrenches

small update, all is off the car but box, this will wait till tomorrow as I need a hand and motorbike lift to do it safe and easy.

Working with proper tools was a pleasure, everything just fly off in no time and zero effort, tools like that are real game changer, not sure why we where waiting so long to get them.

[adaxo]

Car is back on road with 'new' clutch and 'new' gbox. Clutch working great, as new. Didn't floor it yet as I want to run in for about 500 miles to let it wear in and same with box, after that I will change oil for decent stuff and then see what's what.

We find what was causing old one to slip, input shaft seal leak oil on it.
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Thank you Davezj for give me hand with this, without your help it won't be done today and will be much harder, thanks again, you're a star.

[Davezj]

You are very welcome mate, glad to hear you got the rest finished off after I had to go.

Well done mate.


Sent from my space-aged gizmo

[Dimes]

Good work adaxo, I'm glad your VR4 is back on the road. It's far too nice not to be.
Your thread as ever was an interesting read. I hope I have no gremlins when my clutch goes in. Although I'll never see the dirty side of my conversion so it's good you document these things.
Off topic, I was just wondering if there's any pics of your car in it's current form on the forum?

[adaxo]

Yeah it wasn't that bad job as initially thought, especially if I been there few months back.

What clutch you chose to go for?

There will be some fresh pictures next weekend taken on or b4 japfest as currently vr4 needs a deep cleaning treatment and sorting up few dings so its not really nice, just yet ;) but it will shine again :sunny: