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wintertidenz
29-03-2012, 05:28 AM
Right, so I've organised myself some nice new lower arms. I can get the two bolts undone on the arm no problems - but the ball joint itself won't just drop out.

I can't get a hammer or something similar in there to whack it from the top - am I missing some parts to undo?

I'm sure that the last time this was done nothing else needed to be removed - it was a straight in and out job.

scott.mohekey
29-03-2012, 05:54 AM
You can get a couple different types of ball joint splitter to help out. The type I normally use is easier to get in place if you take the axle out as well, but there's another type that you just hammer in from the side.

Subaru ETA
29-03-2012, 06:15 AM
Did I replace them last time? I think I did. If you can't get a ball joint splitter, just smack the hub around where the joint goes through. The shock will make it come out. That's how I would have done it last time

scott.mohekey
29-03-2012, 06:17 AM
Ah yeah, I've done it that way once. Another time I broke a ball joint splitter to pieces trying to get one of the arms off, and HAD to take the axle out so I could get to the joint with a hammer.

wintertidenz
29-03-2012, 08:39 AM
Ahh right, I'll give that a go tomorrow. Dave - you were there so it's quite possible that that is how it was done. I was thinking I would need to remove the axle and smack it from the top.

I tried whacking the arm itself but it didn't help - I was thinking of getting my breaker bar in there and levering against the lower arm to force it out too.

adaxo
29-03-2012, 09:14 AM
I used this type of splitter for many occasion on vr4 with great success, very recommended tool especially if you want to reuse arms.

52236

scott.mohekey
29-03-2012, 09:54 AM
That's the sort I usually use, and have once broken.

The Vee
29-03-2012, 01:59 PM
Right, so I've organised myself some nice new lower arms. I can get the two bolts undone on the arm no problems - but the ball joint itself won't just drop out.

.

Splitter advice etc is all good as they're taper fit. Now, apologies in advance if I've got this wrong, but from your description above, I assume you have also removed the nut from the ball joint pin that holds it onto the hub?

Wodjno
29-03-2012, 02:13 PM
That's the sort I use also. You can remove the ARM without damage the the rubber fairer, if you are not replacing.
Fit is up, get plenty of tension on it by winding the nut. If it doesn't seem like its not gonna move. Then while its still tensioned, hit the part of the hub carrier where the ball joint fits into with a big hammer. It should then pop it out. As Andy says though. Make sure you take top nut off 1st :p

Cheers

Wodj

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk

aboo
29-03-2012, 05:55 PM
I just fitted a pair today. What is the best way to tighten the bolt on top of the ball joint? I only got so far then the ball joint started spinning.

The Vee
29-03-2012, 06:01 PM
Carefully jack under lower arm just to make the taper fit a little tighter. Be carefull not to jack too much and have the car fall off whatever it's supported on.

Mark 4
29-03-2012, 06:39 PM
Or, jack car up ,and then lower it with a block of wood under the bottom of the arm. That should create enough pressure to stop it spinning.

Louis
29-03-2012, 06:42 PM
Right, so I've organised myself some nice new lower arms. I can get the two bolts undone on the arm no problems - but the ball joint itself won't just drop out.

I can't get a hammer or something similar in there to whack it from the top - am I missing some parts to undo?

I'm sure that the last time this was done nothing else needed to be removed - it was a straight in and out job.

Silly question. Have you taken out the bolt from the fork leg at the bottom of the strut, the one that bolts through the bush on the straight arm?, if yes then it is just a bit off hitting the part the ball joint taper goes through with a hammer, and as mentioned the vibration will do the trick,.

aboo
29-03-2012, 07:16 PM
Thanks for the answers guys. I did think that would be the way but wasn't sure & Gowf just told me on the phone as well.

Agree with Louis. I just gave the old arm a tap with a hammer & it fell out /yes

Subaru ETA
29-03-2012, 09:14 PM
And if this doesn't work, use a bigger hammer :p

I personally only use splitters as a last resort, but I do have a large collection of hammers :D

wintertidenz
29-03-2012, 09:34 PM
I've got a few hammers and a breaker bar, but no splitter :P

I'll go out and try it this morning. If it doesn't work, then I'll have to pull the axle so I can hit it from the top.

wintertidenz
29-03-2012, 11:59 PM
Right, so the joint still won't come out. I went down the road and bought a splitter, but it seems to be doing nothing - I'm wondering if the joint itself has rusted in there.

Any suggestions?

Oh, and I tried removing the big nut so I could pull the axle - whoever did it up last did it up way too tight, and I actually cannot get it to budge at all.

The Vee
30-03-2012, 01:05 AM
That hub nut sounds normal. I've actually stood and bounced up & down on breaker bars to undo them. And yes, broken breaker bars before the nut would turn. You may have to get an impact hammer gun with an impact resistant socket on it.

Subaru ETA
30-03-2012, 01:06 AM
i wouldnt say it was done up too tight - Sounds like everything is just rusted. get some WD40 in there and let it soak.

What are you trying to undo it with? Also, what style splitter did you buy? A fork type?

wintertidenz
30-03-2012, 01:55 AM
I finally managed to get the driver's side undone after letting it soak in WD40 for about an hour and a half. A couple of hard whacks with the splitter and out it came.

I got a fork type one as I thought the other one wouldn't have enough clearance.

Also - the LCA that was on the car was an aftermarket one, but the joint is actually OK - quite free to move around, and has the tiniest bit of up and down movement - but it really didn't want to come out even with the force I put on it.

wintertidenz
30-03-2012, 04:03 AM
Right, letting it soak for a couple of hours and using a spanner to lever it out worked.

The LCAs I previously had fitted showed little to no signs of play - however both boots were split.

They seemed to last around 30-40,000kms and were around $50 + GST a side here in NZ. These guys made them: http://www.shautoparts.com/