MTX-L Wideband - Narrowband emulation

[disco-ian]

Hi all,
Going to be wiring up my Innovation MTX-L this weekend would like to use it to replace the old narrowband sensor and then send the signal (emulation) to the petrol ECU.

Now I know the output can be tuned on this however there are two options for default outputs and I was hoping that one of these would be correct for our ECU to get me started.

I have had a search on here about this and can only find wiring colours of what to connect to for the LC-1 which is probably similar but with things that could potentially mess up my cars fuelling I like to be sure before fitting.

So the two default analog outputs that I have available are.
Yellow wire - gives - 0volt 7.35 AFR and 5 volt 22.39 AFR
Brown wire gives - 1.1volt 14AFR and 0.1volt 15 AFR

I pressure I need to connect the brown wire to the standard ECU input and that the AFR ratios given at those voltages are standard for a narrow band lambda?

Thanks in advance.

[foxdie]

Hi Ian,

The brown wire (analog output #2) by default is configured for narrowband emulation, if you're intending to replace your stock o2 sensor then this is the wire you need to connect back to the ECU.

You can find a full pin-out of the MTX-L in this post (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?57600-Innovate-MTX-L-AFR-Wideband-o2-sensor-kit-(gauge-and-sensor-kit)&p=639784&viewfull=1#post639784) ;)

Hope this helps.

[adaxo]

As Jason said, this post is also worth reading (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?57600-Innovate-MTX-L-AFR-Wideband-o2-sensor-kit-(gauge-and-sensor-kit)&p=643939&viewfull=1#post643939)

[disco-ian]

Cheers guys.

[disco-ian]

Can anyone see any issues with the following idea.

Keep the original lambda in the exhaust

Install the wideband sensor close to the original in the exhaust with the bung provided.

Now because I'm running lpg......
Run the wideband with the lambda optioned turned to lpg (15.5:1) and have a relay so the emulation signal goes to the petrol ecu only when running on LPG. When running on petrol the relay switches the signal back to the original lambda which of cause is looking for (14.7:1)

In my mind it works but as always I like to throw these things round before doing them lol

Answers on a post card.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[veegeeta]

hay guys have hooked up my mtx-l gauge kit today and have joined the brown wire with the blue wire on my old sensor plug(cut off old sensor to use the plug) and insulated the 2 black and white one on old conector pluged back into main wire loom of car problem is that my gauge works fine but i cant log it with evoscan. what should i be loging,o2 sensor ,wide band,lc1 wide band,wb02,its just im not getting a afr reading on evoscan if i tick external wide band i get a reading of 0. thanks peoples

[wintertidenz]

You have to connect the wideband to the laptop as well to get the wideband reading - otherwise it'll just show on the gauge, and give the narrowband reading from the ECU.

[veegeeta]

how do i do that ? I would need a 4 pin molex to usb to do that. where can I get a cable? I bought a LM-2 serial 2.5mm patch cable which goes from gauge to my tax trix plug. Which is supose to read through evoscan same as gauge , but that hasnt worked comes up with com port 1 does not exist.

[orionn2o]

A serial cable should have been delivered with your wideband. This plugs straight into your laptop

[veegeeta]

I got no cable with the kit that plugs into my lap top All I got was a 4 pin programing cable that doesnt plug into anything as there is nowere to plug it to , and i got a Lm-2 serial 2.5mm patch cable
A serial cable should have been delivered with your wideband. This plugs straight into your laptop

[orionn2o]

ahh i see!! i didn't realise they didn't give you a 9 way to molex cable! tight bastards!

Well you could make your own cable or need to find a serial to 4 way molex cable if not! What a pain!

I guess it's one of these that you need:

http://www.slowboyracing.com/1G90-92DSM1.208.html

[veegeeta]

no have that cable but no where to plug into my laptop ( I have a plug exactly the same on the laptop so that doesnt plug in, gauge end is fine)
ahh i see!! i didn't realise they didn't give you a 9 way to molex cable! tight bastards!

Well you could make your own cable or need to find a serial to 4 way molex cable if not! What a pain!

I guess it's one of these that you need:

http://www.slowboyracing.com/1G90-92DSM1.208.html

[orionn2o]

are you sure that the connector you are referring to on your laptop isnt a 15 way not a 9 way?

i suspect you'll need a 9 way serial to usb cable

[veegeeta]

i need a cable to go from the 4 pin plug on gauge to usb, because there is no where for the one suplied to plug into:seeking:

[foxdie]

Reference material: http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?57600-Innovate-MTX-L-AFR-Wideband-o2-sensor-kit-(gauge-and-sensor-kit)&p=639784&viewfull=1#post639784

Shane the gauge will have been shipped with a 4 pin molex to DB9 RS232 serial cable, what you need is a Serial to USB converter, they're pretty cheap on ebay :)

That, or, you can do the wideband ecu pin mod, wire the yellow wire to Engine ECU Pin D5 / 75 (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?59222-Definitive-EFI-ECU-Pinout-(KS-Mod-friendly)), then you can log the wideband with MUT request 3C. There's already an option in EvoScan to log Wideband 3C, you just need to edit the formula to match the MTX-Ls configured AFR ranges (10:1 -> 20:1 is a good range).

[veegeeta]

:oops:thanks mate now im understanding , couldnt understand why i could not connect. have some rep/GJ:bananadanWhy did they not just give us a cable with the usb end , would have saved me a head ake lol
Reference material: http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?57600-Innovate-MTX-L-AFR-Wideband-o2-sensor-kit-(gauge-and-sensor-kit)&p=639784&viewfull=1#post639784

Shane the gauge will have been shipped with a 4 pin molex to DB9 RS232 serial cable, what you need is a Serial to USB converter, they're pretty cheap on ebay :)

That, or, you can do the wideband ecu pin mod, wire the yellow wire to Engine ECU Pin D5 / 75 (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?59222-Definitive-EFI-ECU-Pinout-(KS-Mod-friendly)), then you can log the wideband with MUT request 3C. There's already an option in EvoScan to log Wideband 3C, you just need to edit the formula to match the MTX-Ls configured AFR ranges (10:1 -> 20:1 is a good range).

[wintertidenz]

Cost saving measure - it costs about $25-30 for a half decent USB to serial, as some cheap ones just don't cut it. The one I have is worth about $170NZ (Edgeport/1)

[veegeeta]

Thanks guys have hooked it straight to the ecu with the yellow wire and changed evoscan settings .
I now have everything working my gauge reads the same as evoscan and I didnt need extra cables.
Still a big thanks for all in put./woot2:mexicanwav/woot2

[foxdie]

There are a lot of cheap cables on the market I admit. The reliable ones tend to be those with FDTI or ELM chipsets.

[MYKEY]

Just received my MTX-L today and after reading the instructions I'm not to sure where to connect the live to ?
The manual states that...

"Circuits that share power with the vehicle’s stereo, ignition system,
ECU, lighting, or fuel pump should not be used"

That's all the options that I thought of now I'm stumped, will I need to create an additional circuit ?? any suggestions would be fantastic /thankyou

[Erni902]

Just received my MTX-L today and after reading the instructions I'm not to sure where to connect the live to ?
The manual states that...

"Circuits that share power with the vehicle’s stereo, ignition system,
ECU, lighting, or fuel pump should not be used"

That's all the options that I thought of now I'm stumped, will I need to create an additional circuit ?? any suggestions would be fantastic /thankyou

In an ideal world you would create a completely separate circuit using a relay. What I have done however is removed the power from the cigarette lighter (I dont smoke or have any use for it) and used this to connect to the +V of the MTX-L with an inline 5amp fuse.

Hope this helps mate

[MYKEY]

Great, thanks Rikki that sounds nice and simple, ( it needs to be for me :huh: )

[Erni902]

Its not too bad mate tbh. Just need to calibrate the thing tomorrow when I get to Area 52 and then install the sensor into the downpipes. Also still need to plumb in my damn boost gauge ready for the increase :) and the FPR still needs installing haha. Good job my tuning sesh is in the afternoon, I just hope to god it stays dry while I do it lol.

[Colin Wiltshire]

Finally plan to fit mine tomorrow, (had it 3 1/2 years lol), had a good read of what info I found on here, and it seems a lot simpler than I thought. Almost too easy, so I'm sure something will go wrong, it normally does with me, and takes 3 times longer than it should.

[Davezj]

just remember not to connect up the gauge brightness dimmer wire to the dash board lights that are controlled by the variable dimmer roller switch on the dash, if you do this then as soon as uses the variable roller dimmer switch on the dash the gauge will fail completely like mine did and i had to send it back to USA for a repair.
it does warn you in the instructions not to do this but who reads the instaruction.
best thing to do so not to connect the wire, if you are unsure which lights on wire to use.
hope all goes ok colin.

[adaxo]

The 'hardest' bit was to make hole bigger to feed sensor through.

[Davezj]

that is a good point,
most people make the hole bigger so the sensor can fit from the inside of the car out the bottom so it can be fitted into the exhaust.
personally i made the hole bigenough so the connectorcan from the bottom of the car up into the cabin.
the connector is sbstancially bigger than the sonsor.
the reasoni made the hole big eough to fit the connector through was so when i took the exhaust off i would not have to unbolt the sensor from the exhaust before removing the exhaust. over time the sensor can get stuck fast in the exhaust and you need to get heat and a lot of force to remove it, and doing that under the car can be a real pain to do. it is much easier to do when the exhaust is off the car.
i tend to plan for worst case scenario for the future.

i think i used a step drill cone type bit to enlarge the hole, then i wrapped a bit of expanding foam tape round the cable to seal the hole from water. the tape i used was 20mm wide 10mm thick epanding to 80mm thick tape to make a good tight seal. i think the original use for the tape was sealing cavety gaps in buidings, so it is perfect for sealing round the wire.

[Colin Wiltshire]

The gauge is in and wired up, Don't have a spanner large enough for the sensor, the adjustable is just going to round it off.
70824

[Erni902]

The gauge is in and wired up, Don't have a spanner large enough for the sensor, the adjustable is just going to round it off.

Im not the only one then haha

[Colin Wiltshire]

Im not the only one then haha

Ha, no. I have a 21mm, thought that was going to be big enough, but no.

[Erni902]

Haha same here mate. I need a flexi on the downpipes replacing so might just cheat and get the garage to do it while im there lol

[fassi1]

The 'hardest' bit was to make hole bigger to feed sensor through.Sensor goes through the hole.
The trick is to grind sensors hexagon corners down very lightly.
To make sensor easy to take out from the exhaust I use copper greas and don't over tighten it.
Similar to spark plugs they only need little torque.