EvoScan AYC actuators

[eyeballprawn]

Can anyone explain to me what all these functions are for? They seem to overlap a bit, and some are just mysterious, such as Oil Level & Control Off. I've been using Op Check L & R to bleed the system, but what is the difference between them and Air Bleeding & Pump Drive?

56432

Is there actually any detailed documentation for EvoScan out there? Because I've never seen any.

[wintertidenz]

Air bleeding I would have though actuated the pump to push the fluid on both sides - similar to what the MUT does.

[eyeballprawn]

Sounds plausible, but makes it a bit of a juggle dealing with both at once.

I found out what "Oil Level" is, however haven't tested yet whether it applies to our cars. It switches between right and left valves 20 times to reduce the pressure in the accumulator. After this, you can accurately check the level in the reservoir, to ensure it is between the min and max marks.

If you don't have EvoScan or a MUT tool, then the recommended AYC fluid level check procedure is to wait until 90 mins after last driving before checking. Longer if the ambient temperature there is below 10C, due to fluid viscosity.

[wintertidenz]

I think their procedure would be to do one at a time, but the pump would keep the pressure up on both sides.

[Davezj]

I interesting thread,

I am going to be filling bleeding my AYC system from scratch today due to a replacement pump and pipes. So I let you know how it goes.

Once everything is replaced and pipes connected I was thinking I would have to do the following to fill and bleed the system:-
1. fill boot resovoir.
2. Use PUMP DRIVE to get oil flowing to the pump and build some pressure in the system before bleeding.
3. Use OP CHECK L to bleed the left side.
4. Use OP CHECK R to bleed the right side.

But this seems too simple, does the OP CHECK L & R run the pump as well as opening the solenoids to push oil to the diff, or do you have to do PUMP DRIVE to build pressure then OP CHECK L to push oil to diff, then PUMP DRIVE to build pressure again then OP CHECK L to push more to the diff.


Any info before I start would be much appreciated.

[fassi1]

It would be great if u take some photos while doing it Dave.

[eyeballprawn]

Connect up the electrics and hoses and leave the pump hanging under the car. Fill the reservoir and run the pump for a second or two, stop and check the reservoir level and repeat.

Once the pump starts filling with fluid it should begin to build pressure and you will hear it slow down, now you can mount the pump up in its proper position.

After the pump is full of SP3 some air should have been purged back up to the reservoir, but proceed with bleeding the remaining air in the system out via the L & R nipples on the AYC diff.

Be sure to keep the reservoir topped up the whole time otherwise you need to repeat the air bleeding procedure.

[Davezj]

i have already fitted the pump but i just put everything straight in yesterday, i did not prime the pump in any way before fitting the pipes to it and have now come to filling and bleeding.
so i have fitted the pump and done the bleeding via the op check L & R so there is no air coming out of the bleed nipples, but the pump is making a horrible noise when doing the bleeding.

i then took the car for a drive and ayc error code 82 comes up pump fail.

so i am not too sure what to do next.
i don't think i have primed the pump correctly.

[Gly]

have you used the correct pressure switch,
there was a change over from NC to NO at some stage

[Davezj]

yes, i used the adjustable pressure switch that was on my old pump.
i set the switch back to 9 bar ish which is 2 turns back from the adjuster screw being fully screwed in.

the pump runs fine and pumps fluid out of the bleed nipples, but make a really bad noise.
Nick Mann foxdie
when you changed jason's ayc pump at atik's place that pump made the same noise when trying to activate it using evoscan.
how did you fix the issue in the end. i know you fixed it but don't know how.
cheers guys

[foxdie]

Right! *cracks fingers*


Air Bleeding = Runs pump for a long time (60s)
Oil Level = Sends oil back to reservoir (Warning! This is what caused that HILARIOUS spillage of ATF that day at Atik's ;))
Pump Drive = Runs pump for 5~ seconds
Op Check L = Activates left turn (bleeding left nipple), automatically activates pump if it's required
Op Check R = Activates right turn (bleeding right nipple), automatically activates pump if it's required
Control Off = Temporarily stops AYC ECU from sending signals to diff (so turns it into a plain open diff)

That growling noise (http://soundcloud.com/jasongaunt/noisy-ayc-pump) (link to Soundcloud of the exact noise) from the pump is actually the pump over-pressurising, the pressure switch was set incorrectly and the pump was trying to pressurise above 10 bar.

Hope this helps ;)

[Davezj]

Ok I will give that a go.
I did reset the adjustable pressure switch back to where I thought it should be. Maybe I didn't undo it enough.i did 2 turns anticlockwise from fully clockwise. Maybe I will back it off another turn and see what happens.
I will have to wait for more ATF to turn up as used all the stuff I had running through the bleeding process.
I have removed the AYC fuse until the ATF turns up. I will give it a go then and report back.
Thank for the reply Jason.

Edit:-
I have just listen to the noise you linked to and that is exactly the noise I was hearing on my pump, so chances are I have the pressure switch set too high.
That would be an excellent result.
Thanks again Jason, I tried to think of a way to descibe the noise but could not come up with a suitable description so I didn't bother.

[Wodjno]

Any update on this Dave..

As i will hopefully fitting S-AYC diff on Thursday. Last time i did it, i bled the system with all 4 wheels off the ground without Evoscan. /yes

Cheers

Wodj



Ok I will give that a go.
I did reset the adjustable pressure switch back to where I thought it should be. Maybe I didn't undo it enough.i did 2 turns anticlockwise from fully clockwise. Maybe I will back it off another turn and see what happens.
I will have to wait for more ATF to turn up as used all the stuff I had running through the bleeding process.
I have removed the AYC fuse until the ATF turns up. I will give it a go then and report back.
Thank for the reply Jason.

Edit:-
I have just listen to the noise you linked to and that is exactly the noise I was hearing on my pump, so chances are I have the pressure switch set too high.
That would be an excellent result.
Thanks again Jason, I tried to think of a way to descibe the noise but could not come up with a suitable description so I didn't bother.

[Davezj]

right, time for an update,
after replacing my AYC pump i had the noise that jason linked to obove.
when i fitted my replacement pump i swapped my adjustable pressure switch over to it, and set it to the normal supplied position (wind fully clockwise and back out 2 turns). i initially fitted the pump effectively dry, filled the ATF reservoir in the boot and preceded to use the Pump Drive Actuator to prime the AYC pump. this is when the noise started. I then started useing the following to try and bleed what i thought was trapped air in the AYC pump out.

Op Check L = Activates left turn (bleeding left nipple), automatically activates pump if it's required
Op Check R = Activates right turn (bleeding right nipple), automatically activates pump if it's required

after opening the bleed nipples and draining fluid out with no air in on both nipples i was confused as to why the pump was still making the same growling noise linked above.
after jasons advise to back off the adustable pressure switch to stop the noise, i did this, and it turns out that my pump was doing the same as jasons and over pressurising the pump, so at the standard setting on the adjustable pressure switch the pump is developing too much pressure so i backed off the switch 2 more turns and the noise stopped and the AYC pump functioned perfectly.



to elaberate a bit further but not a full write up.
this is what i did to fit prime and bleed my replacement ayc pump.

1. Assuming you have removed the old pump and are ready to fit the replacement.
2. Connect electical connection to pump, fit pipe that comes from the bottom of the reservoir to pump, fill ATF reservoir.
3. this is the messy bit use the Pump Drive Actuator to prime the AYC pump, i mean click the actuator ON then OFF imediately, other wise ATF will gush out of the open pipe on the pump. you might have to do this a couple of time until the ATF start to come out of the pump. fit second pipe to pump to close the ATF reservoir feed and return loop.

this is the bit you will be interest in Glen

4. use the
Op Check L = Activates left turn (bleeding left nipple), automatically activates pump if it's required
Op Check R = Activates right turn (bleeding right nipple), automatically activates pump if it's required

do exactly what it says and the air will come out of the system very easily. you only need to have the rear of tha car on axle stands and possibly remove the rear section of exhaust to get better access to bleed nipples.

basically you click the Op Check L Actuator pump starts, you get under the car, tube on left nipple, open the nipple and ATF comes out. don't bleed too much in one go as the ATF coming out of the nipple is the stuff in the reservoir in the boot, so if you need to bleed a lot out due to a lot of air coming out with the ATF just shut the nipple stop the actuator and top up the reservoir in the boot, then start the actuator again and carry on bleeding until no more air comes out. Ensure you top up the reservoir in the boot or risk getting a whole load of air in the pump. and having to start again priming the pump from the begining.

do the same for the right side nipple and all should be good.


the actuall bleed is simple, i am just tryng to think of the best way to keep the ATF in the pipes that go to the diff while you fit the S-AYC diff.
you could try this, when you get the pipes of the back of the diff put a bit of rolled up kitchen roll on the end and cover with plasctic from a food bag tightly wrapped round it and hold in place with a cable tie. this should stop the ATF from draining out and casuing lots of air to enter the system. i have not tried this method, but i don't see why it shouldn't work.

hope you get the gist of this if not let me know and i will try and make it a bit better.

forgot to say when using evoscan make sure you change the main ECU logging selection to AYC not just the actuator section. i don't know why there is a selection of ecu in the actuator section of evoscan, as the actuator only change when you change the main ecu selection.

[Davezj]

"forgot to say when using evoscan make sure you change the main ECU logging selection to AYC not just the actuator section. i don't know why there is a selection of ecu in the actuator section of evoscan, as the actuator only change when you change the main ecu selection."

this above comment is due to the drop down menu under the actuator screen, it is now obvious that this menu is only for the error code from the different ecu's in the car.
i do not believe any error codes read with evoscan, i always rely on the flashy dash method. the evo scan codes are normally wrong.

[Tarps87]

From what I understand based on Davezj post this process can be used to replace the ATF fluid (well apart from the putting a new pump in :)), is my understanding correct?
If so is this the cable that is required (http://www.evoscan.com/evoscan-gps-obdii-cables/details/15/1/performance-vehicle-pc-diagnostic-interfaces/openport-13u-universal-usb-datalogging-and-reflashing-cable)?

[Davezj]

I don't know I have OP2.0 so I can't comment on OP1.3

[Grid]

Speaking from personal experience a Open Port 1.3U cable can control the AYC actuators, do EVOSCAN logging and will read&erase trouble codes. It won't work for you (or rather it is extremely unlikely) for reflashing, but for that you need the OP2.0 cable (eg. from the Tactrix website).

[Tarps87]

In the end I got the OP2 cable from Tactrix with the program connector just in case.
I managed to use the OP2 cable to flush some new fluid through (could see the colour difference), unfortunately it only raised the temperate that the AYC error light came on at so I had to replace the switch. (Should have released the pressure 1st /duh)

[Davezj]

Yes it does tend to spurt out when under pressure.