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swinks
31-12-2012, 07:03 PM
Just been thinking of fitting "Engine Start" button due to occasional play up of my key ignition barrel (START position).
Has anyone fitted one? What's the feedback?
And most important any wiring graph how to hook up button wires to ignition barrel?
Much appreciated your thoughts and help with wires :)

markysparky
31-12-2012, 07:12 PM
Just been thinking of fitting "Engine Start" button due to occasional play up of my key ignition barrel (START position).
Has anyone fitted one? What's the feedback?
And most important any wiring graph how to hook up button wires to ignition barrel?
Much appreciated your thoughts and help with wires :)

Have you got a decent push button switch? I've found the cheap halfords ones can't take the crank current. Safer to use the push button to activate negative pole (for coil) on an additional relay :)

swinks
31-12-2012, 07:34 PM
Actual button is not a problem, I'm aware of current feed requirements etc, so will look for proper gizzmo.
Just need to know something more about hooking into wiring loom before I take any steps further.

horndog
31-12-2012, 08:17 PM
Didnt Aboo have one fitted when his key was playing up when he thought is was the alarm?

swinks
31-12-2012, 08:20 PM
Maybe.
I know that pezza had one fitted for the same reason.
Any sensible wiring scheme to figure out how to hook up button, please?

Humpty's Revenge
31-12-2012, 08:25 PM
Maybe.
I know that pezza had one fitted for the same reason.
Any sensible wiring scheme to figure out how to hook up button, please?

When we fitted one to a vr4 of mine all we did was fit the switch & cut the cranking wire

Soldered one side to one side of the switch & the other to the other side

No relays involved & no problem's!

There should be only current through it when pushed if I'm correct but that way you can only use the switch & not the key?

You can put the ignition on with the dash lights but not activate the starter!

markysparky
31-12-2012, 08:54 PM
i cant remember the wire colours off the top of my head DOH
2 options relay or no relay?
If your going the relay route.....
switch pin 1 - ground
switch pin 2 - pin 85 relay
pin 86 relay - join to 2nd ignition loom
pin 30 relay - fused battery supply
pin 87 relay - join to crank wire

i think that's right (its been a while) :)

swinks
31-12-2012, 09:25 PM
i cant remember the wire colours off the top of my head DOH
2 options relay or no relay?
If your going the relay route.....
switch pin 1 - ground
switch pin 2 - pin 85 relay
pin 86 relay - join to 2nd ignition loom
pin 30 relay - fused battery supply
pin 87 relay - join to crank wire

i think that's right (its been a while) :)
OK, next question, what colours of wires are within ignition barrel loom?
Crank (Starter signal)?
2nd ignition (ACC/ON)?

SEAN-NZ
01-01-2013, 02:02 AM
could help a bit with the wiring

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FBQwxm0uYo

scott.mohekey
01-01-2013, 02:39 AM
It's probably quite likely that the start wires in the ignition barrel already switch a relay in the engine bay.

SEAN-NZ
01-01-2013, 05:00 AM
It's probably quite likely that the start wires in the ignition barrel already switch a relay in the engine bay.

just about guarantee it, way to much current draw through the tiny little wires

GalantOnly
01-01-2013, 06:19 AM
The starter wire on the ignition key is 3mm2 Black-Yellow one... The relay is inside the starter motor itself.
It will also be nice to make the second relay to switch the starter motor off as soon as engine is started, even if the button is still pushed. For that purpose the white wire (L) from alternator can be used

swinks
01-01-2013, 11:48 AM
The starter wire on the ignition key is 3mm2 Black-Yellow one... The relay is inside the starter motor itself.
It will also be nice to make the second relay to switch the starter motor off as soon as engine is started, even if the button is still pushed. For that purpose the white wire (L) from alternator can be used
Alex, any chance you can do some wiring graphs, pretty please?

GalantOnly
01-01-2013, 02:32 PM
That's just a thought...:)

59341

VR457
01-01-2013, 08:10 PM
I have an ignition switch you are welcome to have a look at. Not a blind clue how it's wired though.

swinks
01-01-2013, 08:38 PM
That's just a thought...:)

59341
You are star Alex!
Rep given.

BTW, relay #2 is the one within alternator?

Ooops, I may be wrong, just start to look at wiring. I assume both relays are stock?
Then in "plus controlled" option I just splice into 2W-B wire from ignition barrel?
Sorry, just learning...

swinks
01-01-2013, 08:44 PM
I have an ignition switch you are welcome to have a look at. Not a blind clue how it's wired though.
With next meet hopefully I will Jamil. Thank you!

pezza
02-01-2013, 12:48 PM
Sorry, I only just caught up with thread but it looks like you have all the info needed to install it already, Tomasz. The only small annoyance was that I went through about 3 buttons in about 18 months to so worth buying a decent switch as even the quality assured switches from maplins weren't up to the the task.

Cheers

GalantOnly
02-01-2013, 10:28 PM
No, Tomasz, both relays are non stock... And btw, the wiring of start button without any extra relays will be the crap solution :)
More understandable diagram, I hope:

edit: if you'll splice the starter wire instead of cutting, you will be able to start the engine with the key too

Davezj
02-01-2013, 10:57 PM
I fitted a start switch a while back, and it was very very easy.
i presume you have and know how to use a digital multimeter.
just to double check you have it all correct, do the following.
1. with ignition off check the 3 wires off the back of the ignition barrel to chassis. find the 2 wires with 0V to chassis.
2. with ingition still off check the remaining wire ,it will have +12V on it. this is your perminent live.
3. with the ignition key at ACC one of the wires found in point 1. will now be +12V, this is your ACC live (switched live).
3. the remaining wire is the one you want to connect one side of the new switch to, but you have put it in parreallel with the engine start switch when you move the key to the ON position.
4. the non connected side of the new starter switch has to be connected to the ACC live (switched live) wire you found in point 2.

with this configuration, the new starter switch will not work unless you have ignition key in the barrel and turned to ACC.

when i fitted my starter switch i found the yellow/black wire had about 4 inline connections in it, and they were corroded with green fur on the visible wires, obviously some that had the car befor me had done some additions and then removals of some electrical stuff, probably a turbo timmer/boost controller, i removed all the additional in line connections with a new piece of wire.
since replacing this section of dodgey wiring, i have had no problems with starting the car using the ignition key.
so the starter button is just a play/show off thing for me now.

GalantOnly
02-01-2013, 11:13 PM
Ignition switch:
Pin1 (red/black) - Constant battery 12V power, fusibile link 7
Pin2 (white/black) - IG1
Pin3 - not connected
Pin4 (blue/red) - IG2
Pin5 (black/yellow) - Starter motor
Pin6 (blue/yellow) - ACC

59362
59363

GalantOnly
02-01-2013, 11:44 PM
You can find the white alternator wire her

Davezj
02-01-2013, 11:57 PM
is that the connector on the ignition barrel or is it the one one the steering column, i only remember seeing 3 wires on the back of the ignition barrel.

the configuration i specified will allow the original key to be used or the new start button, everything still remains connected, it is just the additinal starter switch goes in parallel with the ignition barrel ON postion.

i don't have any schemeatics to hand only what is in my head from about 6 months ago.

i used a switch which is rated as a starter switch which was specified to be connected as i mentiond above, no relays required.

you can do it any way you like, if you don't have a correctly rated switch then the relay method is the best one to go for.

GalantOnly
03-01-2013, 12:04 AM
is that the connector on the ignition barrel or is it the one one the steering column, i only remember seeing 3 wires on the back of the ignition barrel.

This is the connector
59365

Davezj
03-01-2013, 12:39 AM
Hmm, that is interesting, i must have just worked out which wire was which using the thick wires as the start point.

but i must have fitted the new switch between blue/yellow (ACC) and Black/yellow (starter motor), but that does not sound right.
i will check tomorrow, and let you know.
i think it is a 40A or 50A rated push button.

CANDEE
03-01-2013, 10:54 AM
I have a proper Pivot start button spliced into the factory wiring so you can use either... Also mine is wired similar to Dave's in that you have to have the key on the on position for it to work. :)

swinks
03-01-2013, 11:13 AM
If I read both wiring diagrams made by Alex, both require having activated IG1 (ACC/ON) by key in a barrel :)

Anyway, thanks again Alex for wiring graphs! Now, it is so clear and easy :)

Hemigunnar
31-01-2013, 11:45 AM
Thanks for all the help here.
I now have a startbutton... :)

LudviG
31-01-2013, 01:54 PM
I would love to do this! Prepare for more questions in this thread if i start :p

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

Davezj
31-01-2013, 02:30 PM
sorry i forgot to get the pictures.

what have to consider is how do you stop someone in the car pushing the start button while the engine is already running.

if you put a big red button in the moddle of the centre console, someone will do the what does this button do, and push it. even if it says start engine under it.

you could link the relay methed to a but of logic and ensure nothing happened when you pressed it when the engine is running.

or you could make it into a start stop button, this would take a bit more logic/pic but you are still left with the same senario diving along "what does this button do" press, engine stops. you could add even more logic/pic function to ensure the car didnot shut off while driving.

or you could make the start button tamper proof these cost a lot more. button is under a cover.

or you could position it out of the way so only the driver has access to it, but most of the places you could put it, you might accidently knock it, while driving.

or you could get a tamper proof button and locate it only where the driver car get to it. this last one was my choice.

so i have a button under a flip open cover on the plasic moulding on the centre console side of the steering wheel. not many people even notice it is there, i have my flashy dash diag switch down there as well.

GalantOnly
31-01-2013, 06:43 PM
Dave, the diagram I've made with two relays, is the one, which de-activate the start button as soon as the engine is started /yes

CANDEE
31-01-2013, 08:22 PM
Dave, the diagram I've made with two relays, is the one, which de-activate the start button as soon as the engine is started /yes

This is a good idea as the Pivot one I have doesnt do this.

I have also seen people user two buttons, requiring both to be pressed to make the car start.

Davezj
31-01-2013, 08:47 PM
Dave, the diagram I've made with two relays, is the one, which de-activate the start button as soon as the engine is started /yes

well that a good feature.

i have just seen when you said that back in post 12.

Z-Kev
13-03-2013, 08:29 PM
I always wanted to give one of these systems a go

http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/KEYLESS-IGNITION-AUTO-PKE-PBS-COMBO-PG-1.htm

kNuTz
13-03-2013, 09:22 PM
I want to do this myself and what I have seen is the push button is connected to the brake somehow, so the button is not activated until the brake pedal is pressed.
This means when you start the car, the button is disabled until your at a stop with (your foot on the brake) and press the push button.

EDIT: just as the above posts site does :)

GalantOnly
13-03-2013, 10:32 PM
the button is not activated until the brake pedal is pressed
This function can be disabled easily...

And here's a cheaper solution:
http://www.advancedkeys.com/products.htm

Z-Kev
13-03-2013, 11:00 PM
This function can be disabled easily...

And here's a cheaper solution:
http://www.advancedkeys.com/products.htm

thanks for that

hbkuk1
17-08-2015, 08:54 PM
So you would connect a start button between 1&5 if you didn't go with relays?

Pugme
07-09-2015, 07:39 AM
I'm now ready to do this too but in true fashion I need to do it in a slightly different way, so fingers crossed I'm not beyond help!

Ok. When I'm at car shows I like to have my music on which requires the engine running, which means I have to keep my keys in clear sight. So I want to completely remove the key from the start process and hace it solely for steering lock release.

The immobiliser will still keep my car safe when locked and the steering lock should be enough at a show to stop any Idiot stealing it.

So I'll want two top gun style toggle switches and a start button. From what I think I've understood. If I run permanent live to one side of my first switch and ACC to the other. Then loop from the ACC side to the off side of the second switch and ign on to the other side. So it requires both switches on to activate everything. And then loop from ign on side to my starter button and crank the other side...

It will be flick flick vroom....

Is that right? Is that safe!! Haha

Oh and too kill the engine I will flick both switches off which would effectively be the same as turning the key off as it will remove power from all circuits.

Nick Mann
07-09-2015, 08:11 AM
Or a remote start option? I am still toying with the idea of a viper smart start alarm.
What you have said is right, make sure cables are thick enough and the switches are able to take enough current.

Pugme
07-09-2015, 09:13 AM
Haha, sounds easy then!!

I'm sure my switches are 15amp rated and the star tree r button is 50 amp

Cable, I have some 8 awg power cable which is leftover from wiring up my second alternator.

Multimeter, soleldering iron and I'm good to go haha

Davezj
07-09-2015, 09:45 AM
You can buy 40A (I think ) remote relay boxes on eBay for about £15
Even if they are not 40A you can wire the remote relay box to switch on a heavier duty relay or two.
There is your remote ignition switch on and off. you would still have to have a start button though.

Pugme
07-09-2015, 10:03 AM
I like the idea of flick flick start, be like maverick every time I drive! :-)

Pugme
15-09-2015, 06:55 AM
OK, I have now totally removed the key from the equation of starting my car it's there now for steering lock only and my aftermarket immobiliser stops the car being started without me but....

The issue I'd been having previously which I thought this would fix, is still there :-( I often go to start my car and it just clicks for 5-6 times and then fires with ease, I'd hoped this was the ignition switch being corroded, but now the barrel isn't connected I'm looking to move down the line. Is there a starter relay to check before changing the starter motor, weirdly if it clicks with the key and I connect jump leads from another car, it fires straight away!

Davezj
15-09-2015, 09:22 AM
Could be a dodge battery just on the limit of starting.
Just a thought.

Pugme
15-09-2015, 09:35 AM
Hmmm could be I suppose, battery isn't that old but I could do with a smaller one uo front as it's a smidgen in the way of the bonnet hinges, could be worth swapping it for an evo one, but my voltage is all good, it sits at strong 11's when off. And it's not struggling to crank at all. It just doesn't crank lol

Davezj
15-09-2015, 08:57 PM
there is not much in the starter motor circuit, have a search for davcom1 and his uploaded full wiring schematic for the UK spec galant so the starter motor circuit should be pretty much the same.

here is a link to the thread where the link to the hosted storage place is
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?39333-Full-Galant-Legnum-Wiring-Manual-HERE!&p=744608&viewfull=1#post744608

chris_dono
05-08-2016, 10:39 AM
This is the connector
59365

Looking at the pic there... I've had a problem with mine and the replacement arrived today. Is it simply a case of unscrewing that part and swapping in the new one ?

Anything to watch out for while doing it ?

Cheers
Chris