Rear Turbo Manifold

[frankoni]

Hi all,
A couple of months back when replacing the front down pipe i managed to snap one of the exhaust studs on the rear turbo elbow, how easy is it to remove the elbow while its still on the car, from what i can see there is 5 bolts but are all the bolts accessible from under the car ????
cheers
Frank

[Anderz]

You can remove the elbow with the engine in the car. Some bolts are accessible from below and some from above, but space is really limited and the bolts are stuck quite hard... removing the heatshield is the trickiest part
You need good tools and patience :D

[frankoni]

Cheers for the reply mate, at least it is doable with the engine in. Im also going to replace the downpipe and a cat replacement pipe....How long do you think it should take? Im quite patient so should be ok there !! Are there any tools in particular you think I might need as I'm building my tool kit back up after some scumbag broke imto my garage and nicked my last ones!

[pixelplay]

I took the front turbo off mine with the engine in place and it was all easy enough except for removing the exhaust manifold nut in the middle as it require two different styles of spanner and loads of time and patience. I snapped off two studs undoing the exhaust bolts that bolt the turbo in place as they were fully seized up but i manged to do it all with the engine in place. You should be able to do what you need but its not the most easy of jobs

[Davezj]

If you going to try this you would be wise to apply lots of penetrating oil for a few day before you try and remove exhaust and turbo parts as it is quite easy to snap bolts or studs, as mentioned above. But this would mean having you car off the road (not starting) for couple of day while the oil does it's work.
I would much rather take hit of not using the than risking a snap bolt or stud. When putting exhaust bolts back in I have always use copper grease on them, righty or wrongly, and when I have come to undo them after a couple of years them have always come undo without any problems.
Just my thought on it

[pixelplay]

I totally agree with you Dave, I was in a rush to get mine off and didn't allow it time to penetrate properly and of course used the most tough and seriously long handle i could find to counter the rust instead with of course expected results;) I have some new penetrating stuff now called Inox that's supposed to be better at the job but of course its costs more than WD40.


If you going to try this you would be wise to apply lots of penetrating oil for a few day before you try and remove exhaust and turbo parts as it is quite easy to snap bolts or studs, as mentioned above. But this would mean having you car off the road (not starting) for couple of day while the oil does it's work.
I would much rather take hit of not using the than risking a snap bolt or stud. When putting exhaust bolts back in I have always use copper grease on them, righty or wrongly, and when I have come to undo them after a couple of years them have always come undo without any problems.
Just my thought on it

[frankoni]

Right I've managed to get the heat shields loose, no snapped bolts but how the hell do you remove them from the car!!!!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated, either that or it's gonna be scrapped !!!!!

[Davezj]

you could try getting the jack on the bottom of the engine and move it in relation to the chassis to give you a bit more space. or you can loosen engine, gear box mounts to make the space you need.

[frankoni]

I don't think dropping the engine/gbox would make a lot of difference, I was looking at getting the alternator and braket out of the way, I thought this was going to be easy removing the heat shield.
Has anyone on here managed to remove the rear turbo elbow with the engine in the car ??????

[Trotty]

I have replaced the rear dump recently. For ease the alternator and bracket come out. The access becomes a lot easier. Take front right wheel and splashguard off and you will see what I mean.
Alt comes out here.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/25/5ytytu9a.jpg

With dump

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/25/y3emu4ap.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/25/gyvuduja.jpg

[Trotty]

As u can see in last pic there is a lot of room with alternator removed.

[frankoni]

Ahh that's excellent, cheers for the reply and the pics, I've been ripping my hair out with this one, I've been tempting to do this without removing everything which is not possible!!!! If it's dry tomorrow I'll give that a go,
Cheers
Frank

[frankoni]

Daniel, did you have to undo the engine mounts and lower the engine to get the alternator out ???

[Trotty]

Daniel, did you have to undo the engine mounts and lower the engine to get the alternator out ???

Nope

[Trotty]

Daniel, did you have to undo the engine mounts and lower the engine to get the alternator out ???

Nope

[Nick Mann]

I think undoing the mounts to remove the alternator depends on the ampage of the alternator and the state of the mounts.

[Trotty]

I removed my 100 amp and put in a mivec fto alt. not sure what amps. No need to remove engine mount.

[babasvr4]

Just on frozen or rusted in bolts, try a 50/50 mixture of cheap ATF oil and acetone.
get it into a small oil can and keep it agitated when using to stop the two separating.
I know it sounds weird but try it out, nail polish remover can be substituted for pure acetone.

Has worked for me on movers, exhausts and flanges. Remember to to give it a good whack
prior to cracking if you can can swing a hammer and to also try a quick go on tightening it before
attempting to undo it.