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Sulli
21-01-2005, 07:42 PM
Did my second oil change in as many weeks today :$ , thought i'd share my experience. Sorry if it's teaching some of you to suck eggs.

As soon as I got the car a couple of weeks ago, i changed the oil. I used some half-decent Semi-Synthetic 10w-40 oil. When i bought it, the woman in our local motor factors told me it was the best oil you could get :rolleyes: , it always stayed the same colour, however long you left between changes :rolleyes5 , and that her husband had used it in all his cars, and some of those were GTi's! :laugh:

Anyway, once i'd finished laughing, and bitten back the urge to educate her, thinking that i'd just come across as patronising (which would have been well earned by her), I bought it, as i knew it'd only be in a couple of weeks.

Anyway, my delivery of Silkolene Pro S Racing oil (5W-40, Ester based) came today, so I did an oil and filter change.

I got the car up on ramps (though i needed to roll the car onto chocks first, so the ramps didn't catch on the front spoiler). The first thing I found was that the wotsits that keep the undertray in place are crap :rolleyes5 I was ultra careful taking them off, but still broke one!
Once off, the filter is dead easy to get to, near the fron of the engine, and I managed to unscrew it by hand, without resorting to the old trick of hammering a big screwdriver through it, which always makes a mess.

Then, off with the sump plug. Managed to anticipate the flow (it's a man thing) and catch it all in the bucket :). The old oil, which has been in for 2 weeks, and all of 400 miles, was pretty dark, certainly far blacker than when it went in. I was tempted to return it to the woman and ask for a refund, but thought better of it :D

Let it all drain for 10 minutes, and in the meantime I slowly primed the new filter (putting new oil in, a little at a time). Once done, I wiped off the filter housing on the engine block with a clean clothh and screwed the new filter back on, and tightened as much as I could with one hand (which is plenty). I then put a new sump-plug washer on the sump plug (don't forget not to drop the sump plug in the bucket catching the oil), and replaced the sump plug after wiping excess oil from around the drain hole. Tightened this fairly tight with a socket.

I then put around 3.75 litres of oil in the oil filler, and replaced the undertray.

Putting the undertray back on was the worst bit - took me twice as long as changing the oil and filter, and I was tempted to leave it off. Those fixings for it really are $hit, and I have used cable ties in a few instead - much more likely to stay on, and easy to clip off next time.

I rolled the car back off the ramps, to a level surface, and left it a minute before checking the level with the dipstick. Topped up with a bit of oil, then started her up. Let the oil circulate then turned the engine off, tidied up for 10 minutes,then checked levels again. Including the filter, I put in just under 4.5 litres of new oil, and it's bang on the full mark. Took the car for a good drive and checked again, just to make sure.

The new oil, which is, along with Motul 300V, apparently the best you can get, is very light and clear, so it'll be interesting to see in a couple of weeks, how black it gets. The tappets are certainly quiter, and the engine seems to be smoother (could be placebo effect though).

Anyway - hope that helps someone who wants to save themselves the cost of a garage doing it (and probably not taking as much care as you yourself would). It's dead easy, and will take less than an hour, start to finish.

dickytim
21-01-2005, 09:18 PM
good article, the 5,000km (3000mile) oil change is literally that, and so easy a trained monkey could do it while standing on his/her head smoking a joint. I did mine my self cost :

Filter : $27 (mitsi genuine @ trade price) including new sump plug washer

Oil : $60 Castrol RS fully synthetic.

30 min of my time.

Sulli
13-02-2005, 04:14 PM
The oil has been in 500 miles now, and as well as not having used any oil, it's still light and fairly clear.
I think all these stories about VR4 engines turning oil black very quickly is mostly down to the oil quality. As the engine is high performance, most even medium quality oils probably degrade very quickly.
Anyway, i'd recommend the Pro-S on that basis.

bernmc
13-02-2005, 05:44 PM
What did the pro-s cost you, Sulli, and where did you get it from?

Sulli
13-02-2005, 06:09 PM
I got it on the Group-Buy at Scoobynet.
About £68 I think, for 2x 5 litre bottles, inc. delivery to my door, next day. That was from Opie Oils, in Devon.
I did mention here that i could do a Group Buy, but not much response, so i tagged onto the ScoobyNet one.
If you want to get some, let me know and i'll let you know contact details etc.
they also do Motul 300V and 900V, which is also ester-based, but slightly more expensive, as well as doing most other oils.

Kieran
13-02-2005, 06:10 PM
The oil has been in 500 miles now, and as well as not having used any oil, it's still light and fairly clear.
I think all these stories about VR4 engines turning oil black very quickly is mostly down to the oil quality. As the engine is high performance, most even medium quality oils probably degrade very quickly.
Anyway, i'd recommend the Pro-S on that basis.

Hmm. That's interesting and pretty much mirrors the comments made in this Month's Japanese Performance Mag. It recommended Millers or Silkolene as two of the best ester-based synthetics. Not all full synthetics are created equal it seems!

dickytim
14-02-2005, 05:38 AM
Ralliart are happy to service a VR4 with Castrol Magnatec as it is a good oil and will usually be changed out at 5,000km anyway, They say it should do for 10,000km (normal driving)

Kenneth
14-02-2005, 05:54 AM
They say it should do for 10,000km (normal driving)

If you are driving "normally" you dont need a VR-4...

GO GO GO /whip :rolleyes4

Kieran
14-02-2005, 08:27 AM
Ralliart are happy to service a VR4 with Castrol Magnatec as it is a good oil and will usually be changed out at 5,000km anyway, They say it should do for 10,000km (normal driving)

Hmm, after stumbling across the information in this post (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6540&highlight=magnatec), I'm not sure I'd let magnatec anywhere near a VR-4's engine!!

Sulli
15-02-2005, 03:51 PM
I would use Magnatec........ in my lawnmower :rolleyes4
If you are going to spend anything on your car, spend it first on the engine oil, then on the tyres (Eagle F1s are my choice) - it pays in the long run IMO.

jeff
15-02-2005, 05:17 PM
The tappets are certainly quiter, and the engine seems to be smoother (could be placebo effect though).

Sulli, how tappety (is that a word?) are your tappets on start up from cold?

Sulli
15-02-2005, 05:18 PM
Less tappety with the Silkolene I think - noise goes after 20-30 seconds.