remapping my ECU

[Yacuza]

Hello.
Im new with this stuff.
But how much power can i get out og a stock 6A13TT engine?? With smal upgrades like 2.5" exhaust and modifyed intake??

I asked one company in Norway if they could remap my ecu and they told me that this ecu didnt remap???
I thought all ecu could flash and remap.

I han an audi rs4 that i just sent in to germany and got back ready for 500hk ( plus some mods ofcorse )

Can anyone help me??

[GalantOnly]

Search is your friend.../yes

[Yacuza]

I tryed but i didnt understand S*it....

[horndog]

This will give you an idea of what can be done
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?59995-SFX-ECU-Diagnostic-and-Tuning-Services



There are 3 different ECU's for this car, as explained above 7201, 7202 & 7203
I believe the 7201 cannot be flashed on the car - but a new ECU can be matched to any engine like this http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?69042-7202-flashable-ECU

If i remember correctly Jason (Foxdie) had about 320 bhp with intercooler, exhaust, fuel pump and remap

[Yacuza]

Ok thank you.
Im not gonna remap it my self. Its another company in Norway that is 1200km away from me. That is why i am asking
If i can get the ecu remap without moving the car on a puller its the best.
Can i buy a remaped ecu to work in my engine 5 speed?
The ecu that is there now is making the engine idle like crazy. Its s japanese engine, and my thoughts it that its mapped for japan petrol/elevation and so on.
With my audi i just got a new remaped ecu an rocked on.

Hope i can do this with my mitsu also. Since i most likely has an 7201 can it run on the 7202 and 7203 as long its for an manuel transmission??

Thank you for responding to my stupid Q :)

[fassi1]

Personally I wouldn't say that the ECU causes poor idle. I guess there is something wrong what causes your problem and need sorting out.
Regarding remap I reckon it should be performed with ECU on the car upon analises logged data.
Sending ECU to tuner for remap is like buying shoes via internet, you are lucky if they fit perfectly :)

[Yacuza]

I was thinkin of startin of with some platinum plugs or iridium.. ideas on that?

Yes that was my biggest consern... well of to a pull test. But that they rejected the ecu right away shows that they dont haave the experience to do it or that infact it is
7201 ecu ( havent checked it my self yet )

[fassi1]

You want to speak to these guys
http://www.euro-spec2000.co.uk/
they definitely know a lot about tunning VR4

spark plugs - http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?65631-Which-spark-plugs&highlight=spark+plugs

[Yacuza]

Thanks :)

[elnevio]

If I had a new VR-4 and wanted to tune it, I would first make sure it was running right and get the service items sorted.

To this end, I would change all fluids, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, get the fuel injectors cleaned, and any other service items.

This way you have the best possible starting point.


As yours is a 1999 car, I would expect the ECU to be a 7202. :smart:

[Gingerfish]

Good advice all round here.

Nev is totally right. You need a good, strong and reliable base before you consider tuning your car.

If it's not up to snuff as standard, you could be running into a world of problems that are either difficult to diagnose or expensive to rectify once tuning parts are added, for example; you wouldn't want to up the boost on your tubs if it's already smoking under load.

[Anderz]

And even if it is a metal case 7201 it is flashable too with MMC flash, the others can be flashed with ECuFlash

[MarkSanne]

If it idles very high, sort that out first. Check all hoses/vacuum first (these tend to give a world of possible problems, I know from experience :)). Then look at the stepper motor/idle motor/ICS (the round cylinder thing with a brownish plastic base near the throttle body). This is the device that should regulate idle running. You can simply measure the connector according to this little schematic:
http://www.galant-fans.nl/forum/download/file.php?id=1099&mode=view/stappenmotor%20test%20stepper%20motor%20testing.jp g

Next to check is the adjustable screw in the throttle body.
Then even the TPS sensor, but I would be very very cautious touching that, unless you can clearly see it's been tampered with. Search 'TPS sensor' for more on that.

If nothing of the above gets your idle to normalize... please do not start doing any ECU tuning, as there is at least 1 thing not right with your car. If this is how you bought it, it might be first thing to mask other stuff that might be wrong. Don't get me wrong, I don't say you bought a bad car, just trying to get your basics right first with some friendly advice.

As said: please first check all air/vacuum hoses! If anything can bugger things up, it's that!
I use the trusted method of disconnecting the upper left corner intercooler hose from the top Y-pipe, and putting in a bung (that I made myself, looks like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TURBOCHARGER-SUPERCHARGER-HOSE-AND-INTERCOOLER-PRESSURE-LEAK-TEST-TOOL-KIT-/321096261298) connect it to my air compressor and put a bit of pressure on the system (all this with engine off ofcourse) and carefully listen to any airleaks. You might/will be surprised!

[Davezj]

Have a look at this thread it has a lot of liks to other threads on tuning and flashing

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?67698-Basic-Introduction-to-ECUflash-rom-tuning-and-Evoscan-logging&highlight=EcuFlash+basic

[Yacuza]

You where right.. We changed the spark plugs, went over fuel lines ( changing fuel filter a.s.o )
Now, when its cold it runns abit high on the rev, but when it gets warm it lowers the revs to e sweet nice graaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaawwwlllll :D