Well...

[Badger_01]

Got bored today so went to take of the cat and bash the insides out haha. Didnt end up being that easy so took the whole lot off. Ended up going for a drive and it sounded awesomely loud haha.

Anyway on my way back home I was actually taking it easy and I heard a crunch and band there goes the rear diff haha.

Fortunately I was in a 50km zone, had somewhere to pull over and park up and I was able to walk home lol

So what should I do? New AYC diff? Open diff? Or LSD?

[Badger_01]

Annnnnd should I attempt to drive it home?

[Badger_01]

Annnnnd should I attempt to drive it home?

Well drove it home, clunking away lol

[Adam.Findlay]

change to open diff.
cheap and easy. and gives you the option of buying an lsd center for it later on.

[Badger_01]

change to open diff.
cheap and easy. and gives you the option of buying an lsd center for it later on.

Sweet as, just need to find one now lol

[CANDEE]

If you want an ayc one thats done 70k I have one ready to come out.. :P

[Badger_01]

If you want an ayc one thats done 70k I have one ready to come out.. :P

Oh yeah? How much? :P

[Davezj]

So what car should Reece be looking for to get the open diff from.

Type V vr4 I know this is correct but what other model carries the correct rear open diff. Do the drive rear shaft need changing with this diff.
ST-R, is this the only other one that is a direct fitment, I am not sure.

His is just info for Reece to be able to make is choice from.

[scott.mohekey]

ST-R, ST-25, ST-25R, Type V. There may be others, but these are the ones I know of.

[Adam.Findlay]

ANY 4wd 8g which doesnt come with ayc.
prop shaft is the same. monts are the same but axle s are different.

[Badger_01]

ANY 4wd 8g which doesnt come with ayc.
prop shaft is the same. monts are the same but axle s are different.

Okay so I'll need to make sure that any open diff comes with the axles?

[scott.mohekey]

Okay so I'll need to make sure that any open diff comes with the axles?

Yep.

[Badger_01]

Lol Quinton is selling some non AYC diffs and axle sets for $650

[wintertidenz]

I wouldn't trust his stuff.

[Badger_01]

Yep.

Sweet as


I wouldn't trust his stuff.

Yeah I wouldnt either haha

[scott.mohekey]

I got one for $200 off trademe. You'll also get them cheaper at pick a part.

[Badger_01]

I got one for $200 off trademe. You'll also get them cheaper at pick a part.

Yeah the one in Christchurch says that there are a few leggies. Anyone wanna go have a look for me? And if there is a decent one anyone wanna get it and send it up/or sort some other way for me to get it (Uncle may be coming to sort **** out with house so could pick it up) I'll pay whoever does it?

:)

[Badger_01]

Found this http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=634963233

Worth it for $400?

Should I ask more questions?

[Badger_01]

Hmmm I have no idea on how to remove the rear diff, I read the guide but it doesn't help me much as I have no idea on what bits are what lol, pictures would be handy.

Should I just start unbolting everything and hope for the best? Haha

[wintertidenz]

Firstly remove the suspension, hub carriers, driveshafts and other connected items to at least give you some space.
From there you may need to drop the subframe to get the diff out - unfortunately I've only ever helped with a refit, not a removal but IIRC it's only a few bolts.

[scott.mohekey]

You don't need to do anywhere near as much as that. You only need to remove enough suspension arms that you can pull the axle out of the hub carrier.

[Badger_01]

Hmm okay cheers guys. Anyone got a spare diff lying around? Lol

[wintertidenz]

Jeremy will have one soon - a spare AYC one.

[scott.mohekey]

I've got an Ayc one as well. It just needs to be pulled out of the car.

[unclepaulie]

you get awd magnas/diamantes over in NZ? might pay to have a looksee under the ass end of one of them. maybe spin one wheel and note the direction the other wheel spins

[Adam.Findlay]

Yep.

+1, yep scotts right, you need axles too


Lol Quinton is selling some non AYC diffs and axle sets for $650

rip off dont bother with Q's stuff I have paid around $200 for diffs with axles twice now. then factor in another 50-100 bucks to replace all the CV boots, straps and clean and re-grease them before you put it in.
+ axle seals too if the ones on the diff are a bit sad looking.


Hmmm I have no idea on how to remove the rear diff, I read the guide but it doesn't help me much as I have no idea on what bits are what lol, pictures would be handy.

Should I just start unbolting everything and hope for the best? Haha

Its not hard, just be methodical and keep track of where each bolt goes

this is how I do it with what tools to use

1- jack up ass end of car and remove wheels
2- remove the split pin from the hub nuts and then the hub nuts themselves (32mm socket) also remove the brake caliper from the hub so when you swing the hub away to get the axle out you don't pull on the brake line (2 x 14mm bolts on the back of the caliper)
3- remove the AYC lines from the back of the diff and drain the oils, (14mm or 12mm line spanner for the ayc lines and 24mm socket for the oil drain. ** the oil from the AYC resovoir may come out of the lines so have a container ready to catch it**
4- remove the 4 12mm nuts and bolts holding the driveshaft universal joint onto the diff front flange (2 x 12mm spanners)
5- Undo the 17mm bolt and nut on the very top of the hub carrier, the one that goes to the upper wishbone arm. also undo the two 17mm bolts & nuts on the bottom of the hub (17mm socket w' breaker bar and 17mm spanner) **leave the ball joint from the square arm attached as its a bastard to pop out of the hub and then even more of a prick to get back in as you have to load up the taper to stop the joint just spinning around when trying to tighten it back up again later**
6- now the hub is loose it will piviot out around that ball joint which you have left attached, this will let you (with a bit of jimmying around) get the axle out of the hub. If the axle sticks in the hub from rust or similar put the hub nut on but backwards so you have a nice large surface to smack with a hammer (so you don't f*ck the threads on the axles if you plan to reuse them and hit them with a soft faced hammer.
7- get a pry bar and pop the axle out of the diff
8- repeat steps 5-7 for the other side of the car
9- now the axles, oils, AYC lines and drive shaft are disconnected there are 6 17mm bolts at the front of the diff which need to be undone, the top one on the passenger side of the car can be a right bastard as it fouls on the fuel tank sheild so I usually crack that one first and wind it out until it hits the sheild, and then undo the rest and come back to it last once the diff has sagged A bit.
10- get a big 22mm spanner and undo the two bolts that go through the back of the subframe into the back of the diff, this are quite difficult to get to because of the sway bar in the way, and depending what kind of exhaust you have depends on the kind of obstruction here too.
11- Ta-Da!! your diff it out.. try not to drop it on your face, that hurts!

and you are going to hate me for this but installation is reverse of removal!, if you get an open diff I'd pull out all of the ayc pump and resovior and the AYC fuses as its no use anymore, and the open diffs are much easier to put back in as they are lighter, less bulky and dont require 2 types of oil and don't need to be bled.
any more Questions feel free to give me a buzz on the phone if you still have my number, Ive replaced a few diffs over the years ;)


I've got an Ayc one as well. It just needs to be pulled out of the car.
ha hurry up and get rid of that lump! and put your LSD in!!

[Badger_01]

Cool, cheers for that.

This will be an open diff right? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=634963233 and for $400. Reckon thats a fair price?

[Badger_01]

you get awd magnas/diamantes over in NZ? might pay to have a looksee under the ass end of one of them. maybe spin one wheel and note the direction the other wheel spins

We get diamantes, but I have no idea if they are awd

[Adam.Findlay]

Cool, cheers for that.

This will be an open diff right? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=634963233 and for $400. Reckon thats a fair price?

yep will be open diff.
400 isnt too bad for a diff and axles when you are desperate for one as you obvioulsy dont have the time to wait around for a good deal.
Good luck swapping the diffs out!

I think the AWD magnas (diamanties) are only austrailia, there may be some kicking about in NZ but Ive never seen one. and unclepaulie arent the magna rear lsds viscous anyway?
viscous rear diffs are pretty yuck when your throwing around a fair bit of weight with them, unless you shim them up real tight and thats not legal here in NZ

[Kenneth]

There are plenty of AWD Diamanties hanging about, they are almost the same. My current diff is from one. Problem is that you still need the axles from a Galant/Legnum as well as the drive shaft flange. Also, the Diamante has a slightly different rear subframe so the mounts require (like the SAYC) 10mm spacers on the rear to stop it destroying the rubber mount.

All the Diamante rear diffs I have seen are open. Use the same internals though, so easy enough to put an Evo LSD cartridge in them.

[Badger_01]

yep will be open diff.
400 isnt too bad for a diff and axles when you are desperate for one as you obvioulsy dont have the time to wait around for a good deal.
Good luck swapping the diffs out!

Cool might hit them up if nothing comes up

[Adam.Findlay]

There are plenty of AWD Diamanties hanging about, they are almost the same. My current diff is from one. Problem is that you still need the axles from a Galant/Legnum as well as the drive shaft flange. Also, the Diamante has a slightly different rear subframe so the mounts require (like the SAYC) 10mm spacers on the rear to stop it destroying the rubber mount.

All the Diamante rear diffs I have seen are open. Use the same internals though, so easy enough to put an Evo LSD cartridge in them.

oh true. Like I said I had never seen one in in NZ but I dont really look out for them either
If you need the axles from a legnum/galant anyway it would be alot easier just to get the diff as well.

I know the guys on oz vr4 have used magna/diamante rear lsds before but Im sure they are viscous.

[Badger_01]

How about this? http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=635587216

Guy says $195 for the diff and axles

[Gly]

its gonna cost approx 120 for the bits from pick-a-part,

you prob wont find a cheaper deal than that.

[scott.mohekey]

Yeah, take it.

[Adam.Findlay]

How about this? http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=635587216

Guy says $195 for the diff and axles

yep thats a good price!

[Badger_01]

its gonna cost approx 120 for the bits from pick-a-part, you prob wont find a cheaper deal than that.

Yeah, take it.

yep thats a good price!

Sweet I'll do it

[Badger_01]

Oh and what oil should I get for the open diff?

[scott.mohekey]

Bananas! /haz

Na, I'm not sure, but I think its the same as the oil you use in your gear box.

[Gly]

Bananas! /haz

Na, I'm not sure, but I think its the same as the oil you use in your gear box.

same oil as transfer box.

any evo 1-9 mech lsd will fit.

[Adam.Findlay]

GL-5 spec. 75W-90

and when you get an lsd get use GL-5 LS90

[Badger_01]

Bananas! /haz

Na, I'm not sure, but I think its the same as the oil you use in your gear box.


same oil as transfer box.

any evo 1-9 mech lsd will fit.


GL-5 spec. 75W-90

and when you get an lsd get use GL-5 LS90

Lol sweet cheers for that

[Badger_01]

Its not hard, just be methodical and keep track of where each bolt goes

this is how I do it with what tools to use

1- jack up ass end of car and remove wheels
2- remove the split pin from the hub nuts and then the hub nuts themselves (32mm socket) also remove the brake caliper from the hub so when you swing the hub away to get the axle out you don't pull on the brake line (2 x 14mm bolts on the back of the caliper)
3- remove the AYC lines from the back of the diff and drain the oils, (14mm or 12mm line spanner for the ayc lines and 24mm socket for the oil drain. ** the oil from the AYC resovoir may come out of the lines so have a container ready to catch it**
4- remove the 4 12mm nuts and bolts holding the driveshaft universal joint onto the diff front flange (2 x 12mm spanners)
5- Undo the 17mm bolt and nut on the very top of the hub carrier, the one that goes to the upper wishbone arm. also undo the two 17mm bolts & nuts on the bottom of the hub (17mm socket w' breaker bar and 17mm spanner) **leave the ball joint from the square arm attached as its a bastard to pop out of the hub and then even more of a prick to get back in as you have to load up the taper to stop the joint just spinning around when trying to tighten it back up again later**
6- now the hub is loose it will piviot out around that ball joint which you have left attached, this will let you (with a bit of jimmying around) get the axle out of the hub. If the axle sticks in the hub from rust or similar put the hub nut on but backwards so you have a nice large surface to smack with a hammer (so you don't f*ck the threads on the axles if you plan to reuse them and hit them with a soft faced hammer.
7- get a pry bar and pop the axle out of the diff
8- repeat steps 5-7 for the other side of the car
9- now the axles, oils, AYC lines and drive shaft are disconnected there are 6 17mm bolts at the front of the diff which need to be undone, the top one on the passenger side of the car can be a right bastard as it fouls on the fuel tank sheild so I usually crack that one first and wind it out until it hits the sheild, and then undo the rest and come back to it last once the diff has sagged A bit.
10- get a big 22mm spanner and undo the two bolts that go through the back of the subframe into the back of the diff, this are quite difficult to get to because of the sway bar in the way, and depending what kind of exhaust you have depends on the kind of obstruction here too.
11- Ta-Da!! your diff it out.. try not to drop it on your face, that hurts!

and you are going to hate me for this but installation is reverse of removal!, if you get an open diff I'd pull out all of the ayc pump and resovior and the AYC fuses as its no use anymore, and the open diffs are much easier to put back in as they are lighter, less bulky and dont require 2 types of oil and don't need to be bled.
any more Questions feel free to give me a buzz on the phone if you still have my number, Ive replaced a few diffs over the years ;)


Having trouble with getting the hubs off the axles, would it be easier if I took the bolt holding the shock off? Also smacked it around and jiggled it about and it felt like there was more holding it on lol. Any tips or tricks for this?

[wintertidenz]

You typically need a breaker bar with an extension, or a 3/4" drive breaker bar so you can put some torque behind it.
A rattle gun will also work if you have a heavy duty one.

The torque specs on the axle nuts will be about 230nm.

However if you already have the nut undone, tilt it to the side and thread the nut back on a bit, then whack it with a rubber mallet - it should move it.

[Badger_01]

You typically need a breaker bar with an extension, or a 3/4" drive breaker bar so you can put some torque behind it.
A rattle gun will also work if you have a heavy duty one.

The torque specs on the axle nuts will be about 230nm.

However if you already have the nut undone, tilt it to the side and thread the nut back on a bit, then whack it with a rubber mallet - it should move it.

Done this, smacked it out a bit but it wont go all the way out

[SEAN-NZ]

get something heavy, heavier the better, to a point, i used a brake disc that i had replaced with new one the day before, worked a treat, i did have something between the disc and shaft, got it out in a couple hits instead of smacking the crack out of it with something lighter

[Badger_01]

SO pretty much I should just smack it till it comes out? lol

[wintertidenz]

Get the hub on a bit of an angle and give it a good hard smack. It should just pop out. It may help if you disconnect the suspension to get that extra angle on it. . Just make sure you don't damage the ABS sensor when the driveshaft comes out.

I have to admit that last time I did it I really smashed it hard to get it to pop out - IIRC it was still bolted in at the top and side to give some anchoring to the hub.

[Badger_01]

Get the hub on a bit of an angle and give it a good hard smack. It should just pop out. It may help if you disconnect the suspension to get that extra angle on it. . Just make sure you don't damage the ABS sensor when the driveshaft comes out.

I have to admit that last time I did it I really smashed it hard to get it to pop out - IIRC it was still bolted in at the top and side to give some anchoring to the hub.

Got them out. Now having a **** load of trouble with the 17mm top bolt on the passenger side of the car, the bolt has rounded a bit and I broke a 17mm spanner on it (probably why its rounded a bit) Now this is the only bolt left to get out. Any way to get it out?

[wintertidenz]

Try and tighten it slightly to break the 'seal' then undo. Also try a WD40 or CRC, and a toothbrush to clean the threads up first.

If all else fails, grind a slot in the nut if it's accessible and get a chisel or wedge in there with a hammer to force it open. Or just cut the bolt off, remove the rest of the bolt and replace it.

[Badger_01]

Still cant get it off, such a pain in the ****ing ass. Im so pissed off. Only bloody bolt to get off and it wont ****ing budge :soaprant

[wintertidenz]

Which bolt is it? Can you take a picture?

And have you tried a breaker bar? Spanners are useless on most bolts unless you're just re-tightening.

[Adam.Findlay]

Having trouble with getting the hubs off the axles, would it be easier if I took the bolt holding the shock off? Also smacked it around and jiggled it about and it felt like there was more holding it on lol. Any tips or tricks for this?

sorry I forgot about the shock bolt. yes take that 17mm bolt out and then push the shock off the peg and then swing the hub away

[Badger_01]

Which bolt is it? Can you take a picture?

And have you tried a breaker bar? Spanners are useless on most bolts unless you're just re-tightening.

Its the one adam said would be a right bastard to get out since it fouls on the fuel tank shield.

I've loosened the bracket so the diff is hanging down. The bolt is now completely ****ed, I've tried so many different things to try get it out. Its just a complete no go and it ****s me off since its the last ****ing bolt to get out

[Adam.Findlay]

Its the one adam said would be a right bastard to get out since it fouls on the fuel tank shield.

I've loosened the bracket so the diff is hanging down. The bolt is now completely ****ed, I've tried so many different things to try get it out. Its just a complete no go and it ****s me off since its the last ****ing bolt to get out

So you have rounded it off?

if so just cut it / grind the head off it. Im sure Ill have a spare bolt you can have to replace it with.

if it not rounded off just get the ring end of a spanner on it and then kick the shi*t out of it to loosen it. as you can't get a socket and breaker bar in there because of that fuel tank heat sheild

[Badger_01]

So you have rounded it off?

if so just cut it / grind the head off it. Im sure Ill have a spare bolt you can have to replace it with.

if it not rounded off just get the ring end of a spanner on it and then kick the shi*t out of it to loosen it. as you can't get a socket and breaker bar in there because of that fuel tank heat sheild

The bolt is pretty ****ed. Im thinking of dropping the subframe so I can get the bracket bolt off. The open diff came with the brackets and bolts

[Adam.Findlay]

dropping the subframe is a big job. and putting it back in without a full 2 post hoist and tranny jack is near impossible by yourself, I dont reccomend it.
Id just cut that one bolt to get the old diff out then replace it with one of the ones that came with the new diff

[Badger_01]

dropping the subframe is a big job. and putting it back in without a full 2 post hoist and tranny jack is near impossible by yourself, I dont reccomend it.
Id just cut that one bolt to get the old diff out then replace it with one of the ones that came with the new diff

Hmm okay, so the diff is hanging down and the bolt is right next/kinda under the fuel tank, will the shield protect it enough from sparks?

[wintertidenz]

The fuel tank is plastic IIRC. Just be careful and you should be fine.

[Gly]

so is the bolt undone? or still tight?? i know the bolt, and i shortened mine before refitting it,

are all the other bolts out or still done up at this stage?

[Badger_01]

so is the bolt undone? or still tight?? i know the bolt, and i shortened mine before refitting it,

are all the other bolts out or still done up at this stage?

Still tight and all of the other bolts are out

[wintertidenz]

Are you supporting the diff so there's no weight on the bolt?

[Badger_01]

Ended up cutting it off, open diff is in but Im having trouble putting the axles in. Any tips or tricks for these?

[Adam.Findlay]

they need a good punt to get the circlips in the stub axles to compress and slide in.
I usually just use the extension in the inner CV cup to sort of "hammer" the axle into the diff.

[Badger_01]

Finally got it done!! Haha will take it for a drive later and hope like hell that nothing else breaks :sick:

Thanks to everyone that gave me advice and what not! Cheers guys :)

[scott.mohekey]

Result!

[Bender]

64344

[Badger_01]

Took her for a test drive and all appears to be good! :D

[Adam.Findlay]

Took her for a test drive and all appears to be good! :D

good to hear!. glad you got it all going again for a decent price. and hope that my instructions were of help.

[Badger_01]

good to hear!. glad you got it all going again for a decent price. and hope that my instructions were of help.

Yep they were :) Cheers for all of the help :)