Was it a good price?

[nos monkeys]

Hey, just curious to see if this was a good buy. As you know I just brought my first mitsi, vr4 legnum. Its done 140,000kms runs great when i took for a test drive will take it out for a decent drive tonight when i get petrol. got a new wof this morning with no problems.

here it is on carjam, http://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=cfc458 the photos to the right on the carjam report are of the car, it was very tidy only like 3 tiny stone dents 2 in the passenger door and 1 in the front guard.

I paid $3700 for it. its manual has receipts for new clutch cambelt kit new gearbox and all the service receipts.

Was this a good price? or did i pay to much. i had no idea what they were worth.

[Bender]

I remember seeing that one on trademe months ago, I thought it had sold and sold for around $4500 or so, He must have one his mates bidding on the auction.

But $3700 seems like a fair price, Prices for Legnum's are all over the place.

[SEAN-NZ]

i would say its a good price, i payed 3700 for mine with 17xxx ks, manual, with having all the receipts i would say even better, so long as nothing goes wrong any time soon i say good bargain

[Bender]

Mine you it what I paid for mine over a year ago what is also manual, had just under 182,000kms at the time with few mods already done to it.

[nos monkeys]

it did come back with 3 error codes and does have a miss when foot flat which i have posted about in the ecu part if yous wanted to go have a look and try help me out. and the ayc light is on so i need to get that sorted

Apart from that i like it.

Is a tad rough around the edges like the roof lining has a few rips in and has a few stone dents bit of clear coat peeling on the roof etc but overall its good. just had a look through the book of receipts and it had an aa check done start of this year and the compression test showed that it was 90 on 5 and 100 on 6, doesnt say what type of rating it is though but is like 90psi good? im assuming its psi

[Subaru ETA]

Lol when I had my vr4 I paid $15,000 from memory :p

[Evolved]

a paid a hell of alot more for mine..

[nos monkeys]

well considering so far iv found a few problems it probably wasn't cheap =[ cracked sump, doesn't like full throttle, has a weird relay spazzing noise from under the throttle body no idea what that gadget is, ayc pump is stuffed, has a few abs error codes. but apart from that i like it.

running 5psi boost and its dam fast then i found out factory boost is 9psi. not sure if the low boost is causing over fueling when foot down and causing the miss or not but will turn the boost upto 9psi soon and test it out. it only misses after a good long drive of it beening warmed up

also the bov when i rev it and it goes chsss the valve stays open and blows air out of it, it doesn't shut. is it meant to shut after it goes chss? it does shut the next time i touch the accelerator. is there any way to fix or do i need a new bov?

[Subaru ETA]

I would be chucking a set of plugs in it and see how it goes

[nos monkeys]

the front 3 plugs were mint as looked perfect, will get to the back 3 on another day. today every single thing i touched has broken so having a bad day.

[mattnz]

The spazzing noise could be the solenoid of an electronic boost controller, if it has one installed.

[nos monkeys]

was the idle control thingy, googled a picture and thats what it was, has a manual boost controller but not hooked up properly so trying to figure out where the stock boost controller is and trying to return it to stock but having a hard time, this my first turbo, and first mitsi so have no idea where things go lol and the things on it aint on right

[John TheAntique]

Why do you keep Googling things ( and probably getting dubious answers ) when there are over 100 detailed explanations in the articles library alone.?

[nos monkeys]

im not a member yet which is why i cant view the pictures and read the articles :( and im trying to see if i can get it sorted because im worried its freeboosting even though im not driving fast i dont want to ruin the car

[wintertidenz]

If it's only running 5 psi, it's on wastegate pressure. Which region are you in? Someone here may be able to help you out and have a look at some of the issues you've been experiencing.

[nos monkeys]

im in nelson but when i get money id be keen for a roadtrip anywhere in the south island for someone to have a look for me. i was told on here factory boost is 9psi? is wastegate boost 5psi? i did notice on the boost controller the 2 holes which are for venting air ( i think) had a sticker over them so both holes were sealed off but i have just removed them and am taking the bov off to clean so it stops sticking open after blow off

Well turns out cleaning and oiling the bov didnt do a difference nor did tightening the adjustment screw at the top, after the blow off the valve stays stuck open about 1/4 and after a few minutes it will close again unless i touch the throttle then it will close again. this isnt normal ay?

[wintertidenz]

Sounds like your BOV is stuffed if it's sticking open. Replace it.

Wastegate spring pressure is 5-6psi. Manual cars boost 9psi, and pre-facelift autos are 7psi. You will notice the difference when it's boosting correctly - the boost comes on quicker and is more stable.
Remove the boost controller and return it to stock (ie. remove that extra t-piece and use a straight joiner to reconnect the hose, make sure the red tipped pipe is in there though).

[nos monkeys]

i removed the boost controller and hooked it upto the factory boost solenoid but car still reads 5psi. im sure it has a boost leak pretty bad, i found 2 hoses on the manifold not attached to nothing so fixed them put them back on where it was ment to go but gauge still sits at 5psi. im sure it has a big boost leak still because when it boosts it has a nice turbo whistle to it. and im scared to drive it when it has a leak because i need it for reliability and if the turbos are spooling way faster than they should they would wear out way faster. tryed doing a boost leak test but couldnt get any pressure and my compressor was to loud and couldnt hear any leaks.

Might just try find a mechanic to check for me, how expensive would it be for a boost leak check to be done? or does anyone want to do it for me if i drive to you?

[low_vr4]

Sounds like your BOV is stuffed if it's sticking open. Replace it.

Wastegate spring pressure is 5-6psi. Manual cars boost 9psi, and pre-facelift autos are 7psi. You will notice the difference when it's boosting correctly - the boost comes on quicker and is more stable.
Remove the boost controller and return it to stock (ie. remove that extra t-piece and use a straight joiner to reconnect the hose, make sure the red tipped pipe is in there though).

9psi? Really? Mine doesnt go over 5psi with the ebc switched off.

[nos monkeys]

9psi? Really? Mine doesnt go over 5psi with the ebc switched off.

I think its 9psi when connected to the factory boost controller solenoid, i did read on here that if your stock boost controller is stuffed it will only run at 5psi. mine im just 100% paranoid it has a boost leak because even when it was free boosting when i brought it the gauge never went over 5psi and i can't get it over or under 5psi which is why i think i still have boost leaks even though iv fixed 3 and hooked the wastegate lines back up to the stock controller.

Also iv never owned a turbo before and if these are ment to run 9psi they must go dam hard because mine goes nuts and its only saying 5psi. and im sure there not meant to have a massive turbo whistle like it has a wastegate when it doesnt ^.^ im just worried im going to blow the turbos if there is a big boost leak and the turbos are spooling way over there limit even though it thinks its only making 5psi at the manifold