I need help with error codes please, Legnum vr4

[nos monkeys]

Hey, Am after help with my boost problems and connecting the factory boost controller and vacuum lines now as that is the problem not my ecu codes (: thanks all for the help so far

[nos monkeys]

Have just disconnected the battery to clear the codes and took it for a drive to make sure the codes are new. im getting the engine check light flashing the same speed continuously but the abs light flashes these codes.

13 air intake temperture sensor
52 ignition coil 2-5
24 speed sensor

Now looking by the codes link i was giving on my thread under the transmission section it says there is different codes for engine, abs etc but giving my cars miss when foot flat it does sound like number 52 is a stuffed ignition coil. Now for me to test this could i swap this coil with the one next to it reset the codes take it for a drive and technically it should change codes to 44 or 53? im skinned on cash and don't want to buy a new coil if that isn't actually the problem although its highly likely it is.

The ayc flashed 2 numbers which are

41 TPS system (broken wire or short circuit) approximately 27− 20 ( no idea what this means or how to check and fix)
82 ayc pump ( does this mean the pump is stuffed or is there still a chance i can just replacing the pressure switch?)

[Nick Mann]

The abs light flashes codes for the braking system. The speed sensor code might be there but I'd be amazed if a coil pack issue is flashed out by the abs light and not the cel. There are threads on here that show the codes for each system. If I wasn't on my phone I would find one and paste the link.

[nos monkeys]

Hey, yeah i have the link here which i was given on my other post but iv done the codes 4 times and there all coming from the abs light and are defiantly flashing those numbers and i check on the codes and the abs codes doesnt have 24 or 52 it only goes upto 21.

And the car does miss when foot flat and boosting and the miss gets worse the longer i drive and harder i drive.

Would swapping the coil packs over work though to see if the code changes? not sure if the packs are interchangeable or not as i was thinking of swapping them around and trying to see if it changed codes then i'll know for sure its that which is broken.

The code for the ayc was 82 and 41, 82 says stuffed pump but does that mean i need a new pump or could i still get away with a new pressure switch? and 41 says TPS system (short or break) but i have no idea what that is or how to fix


Update: So i found another thread with more related error codes and does come back with abs errors code numbers which i have listed but even though im not worried about them atm as it brakes mint. im just mainly wanting to sort out this miss in the engine and the ayc. but with the engine light coming back with nothing and if the abs light isn't telling me the ignition pack is stuffed im not sure what to do.

I was thinking of taking the spark pugs out but how do i get to the rear ones, can i just unbolt all the intake etc or will i need to buy new gaskets for that and is it a harder job then im expecting it to be?

Sorry about all the questions i just dont want to start pulling things apart making more damage than good so always like to know any info related before i jump into something new

[Nick Mann]

Now back on the PC.

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?22930
Look down the page to post 10, which says this:

13 wheel fast sensor (RR) system (broken wire or short) 35B- 5
24 wheel fast sensor (RL) systematic 35B- 5
52 valve relay OFF breakdown or ABS-ECU power source systematic breakdown 35B-7- 1

How long has the car been in NZ? Do you know if all the recall work has been done? I'm not sure which cars were affected, but the ABS control box was a recall on some of them. Has your ABS module got a bulbous bit on it?

If you are still convinced that the code might be the coil pack, then swapping it is easy enough.
I'd also check the HT leads are seated properly (including to the rear plugs!) check the plugs themselves and also check all the boost pipework (including control pipework) for leaks.

[nos monkeys]

hey, im not sure how long it has been in nz as i just brought it this afternoon. i have receipts for just engine maintence work etc can't find nothing about the breaking system. and no idea where on the car to look at the abs module or what a bulbous bit looks like?

Also how hard is it getting to the rear plugs to take out, do i need new gaskets for the intake if i have to remove it or is there a secret way to get to them without taking al the top stuff off. as i was thinking of checking the plugs etc. and i might change the ignition packs tomorrow to double check.

It does have a boost controller on it and iv never owned a turbo before so could you explain a little bit about what boost hoses to check and what pipe work, the intercooler hoses and or the vacumm lines? there does seem to be alot of vacumm lines running around the place but no idea where they are ment to go and what is meant to be blocked off or not :( although i will have a good look around the engine tomorrow and find any lose hoses and post up pictures of things im unsure about

Also i just assumed boost leaks would only effect it when running high boost? im only at 5-6psi and at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle it goes bloody mint i was amazed at how good it ran without my foot down but when i put my foot down it sort of has a stumble and miss from 4500rpm onwards and loses all the power but the boost gauge still shows its at 6psi

[orionn2o]

There's a thread by Pieboy written years ago for checking up your cars recall status

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?5201-Check-your-cars-recall-status-in-Japan&highlight=Recall+colt+company

[orionn2o]

BTW Welcome to Club VR4 and VR4 ownership. If you're short on money I would personally try to start putting a few pennies away each month because VR4s are not the cheapest of cars to own and maintain properly.

If you are having issues with the car and are unsure of it's history I would aim to give it a decent service as the highest priority, then you can start to dig deeper on any remaining issues. As you have stated, your car could need new plugs, could have the wrong ones? At least if you get it properly serviced you will know the state of all these items!

With all that said I'm sure you'll enjoy owning your new toy. I used to love mine and still think back on it fondly.

Matt

[Bender]

Other thing to do is, lose the mushroom intake filter and put back on a factory air intake box with K&N panel filter or other good brand panel filter.

[Nick Mann]

If there is a small leak from a boost pipe, main one or control one, then the car will over fuel on boost. How much it will over fuel depends on the leak, the boost pressure and the throttle position. Significant over fuelling will make the car lose a lot of power. I can't tell you which one, there are loads! The best way of checking is to remove the flexi from the solid Y pipe near the drivers side headlight and then put a plug in the flexi with a valve to allow you to pressurise the pipework after that (Don't go mad on the pressure, 1.5 bra will be plenty to find boost leaks!). There will always be a small amount of leakage, but you can often find issues doing that.

Cheers,
Nick.

[nos monkeys]

i havent got the factory air intake but will see if i can find a cheap one. im going to have a look at it today and see whats up

[nos monkeys]

the mushroom filter thing is an hks one, would it still be better to change it? i checked the front 3 plugs and they were mint as looked almost new platium ones. the back 3 on the other hand im going to google how to get at them before i start undo bolts and most likely ones that dont need undoing, i had alook around all the vacuum lines from the bov/boost controller to the wastegates and they were all new and on tight. the other air intake lines though im not sure if they have a leak but ill try figure that one out.

What is the factory boost these cars run at anyway?

on a side note they have a cracked sump next to the drain plug and i know how it got there, the speed bumps around here are nasty and i bet his wife was driving and hit it to fast. . . my mate cracked his sump a week after i moved here from the speed bump in town lol. but that's no biggy

[Bender]

Yes still change back to factory air box. Everyone on here will tell you not to run a pod filter, Your mushroom filter is only sucking in hot air since they sit right next to engine. Only way of keeping it, is making a cold air box and moving it away from the engine.

Try Pick-A-Part for a factory airbox.

PFL autos are 7psi, PFL manuals are 9psi and PL one are 9psi.

[nos monkeys]

ohk thanks, should i wind the boost up to 9psi? could it running on 5psi make it run rich? no idea about turbos ^.^ also i just checked the codes again and noticed with the ignition on and car not running there was a random ticking noise coming from under the bonnet every so often so i sat to find where it was coming from and it was a little thing under the throttle body, will post a photo up in a second but i think it might be the intake air temperature sensor? if so is this meant to tick and make noises with the ignition on but car not running? it just sounds like a relay going on and off and spazzing . . .

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/2456/37w0.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/37w0.jpg/)

This thing here with the light brown cover, that plug unplugged is from that i unplugged it to make sure that is what was making the noise and it was because it stopped doing it when it was unplugged


Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

[Bender]

It should already be running 9psi. The manual vr4's run 9psi from the factory. Does it have a boost gauge?

[nos monkeys]

the boost gauge says 5psi and it has a boost controller under the bonnet so im guessing its been wound down, the boost gauge runs off a line on the intake/throttle body is that the right place

[nos monkeys]

either my boost gauge is wrong or the boost controller doesnt work i just turned it up 10 clicks and it didnt change any psi on the gauge, will upload a photo shortly of how everything is hooked up just to make sure whoever put it on put it on right, now im not sure if it is running 5psi or not but either way ill take it slow till i find out what boost its running.

my bov works when the boost gauge is like just under 0 as well is that normal

[nos monkeys]

i have no idea how to check if my boost gauge, controller and bov are on correctly and working. . . bov makes noise, boost gauge moves and shows 5psi but adjusting the boost controller either way does nothing to the gauge and the bov still works even when boost gauge is well under 0psi when cruising. not sure if thats normal or not but here are pictures please help me check. i want to know what boost it actually is running incase is under boosting or over boosting

So the 2 blue lines running into the boost controller go directly to each wastegate on the turbo, the black line on the boost controller goes to that splitter thing. Also the line ontop of the bov goes down to that splitter thing as well,
(http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/11/2yah.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
(http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/607/o5qp.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
(http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/811/oj9q.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)


Is this set up correctly? if so why does my boost controller not adjust nothing when i turn it, or how many full turns do i need to turn it iv only done 1 full turn each way and no difference on the gauge. also my gauge is hooked upto here is this the right place, its just after the throttle body on the intake
(http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/9jyj.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

[Davezj]

ohk thanks, should i wind the boost up to 9psi? could it running on 5psi make it run rich? no idea about turbos ^.^ also i just checked the codes again and noticed with the ignition on and car not running there was a random ticking noise coming from under the bonnet every so often so i sat to find where it was coming from and it was a little thing under the throttle body, will post a photo up in a second but i think it might be the intake air temperature sensor? if so is this meant to tick and make noises with the ignition on but car not running? it just sounds like a relay going on and off and spazzing . . .

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/2456/37w0.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/37w0.jpg/)

This thing here with the light brown cover, that plug unplugged is from that i unplugged it to make sure that is what was making the noise and it was because it stopped doing it when it was unplugged


Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

The part you have unplugged here is the idle stepper motor and it is meant to click when it adjusts itself. It continuosely adjust to change the amount of air it allows to bypass past the throttle body butterfly when it is closed.
Some times the idle stepper motor can sit there and wind itself in and out and make all sorts of clicking noises even when the engine is not running, which is a bit odd but it needs to be lft connected up.

Join the club and use the seach feature on this site it has all the information you require. Every question you have asked has already been answered on the site already you just need to search for the answer.

[Davezj]

i have no idea how to check if my boost gauge, controller and bov are on correctly and working. . . bov makes noise, boost gauge moves and shows 5psi but adjusting the boost controller either way does nothing to the gauge and the bov still works even when boost gauge is well under 0psi when cruising. not sure if thats normal or not but here are pictures please help me check. i want to know what boost it actually is running incase is under boosting or over boosting

So the 2 blue lines running into the boost controller go directly to each wastegate on the turbo, the black line on the boost controller goes to that splitter thing. Also the line ontop of the bov goes down to that splitter thing as well,
(http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/11/2yah.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
(http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/607/o5qp.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
(http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/811/oj9q.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)


Is this set up correctly? if so why does my boost controller not adjust nothing when i turn it, or how many full turns do i need to turn it iv only done 1 full turn each way and no difference on the gauge. also my gauge is hooked upto here is this the right place, its just after the throttle body on the intake
(http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/9jyj.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

The manual boost controller you have in you pic is a very cheap and nasty one. I have had one of those in the passed and it was faulty straight out of the box, it is pot luck if they work or not. In my experience. It is a £10 item from eBay.

Personally I would remove it and go back to using the factory boost solenoid, which is probably still fitted to the car just disconnected.

Join the club and and the workshop manual are on here in PDF format with diagrams to show you how it should be connected.

As long as the pipe you boost gauge is connected to goes directly from the plenum chamber to the gauge then that should be fine. The factory standard use it that connection is to activate the recirc bov valve.
But you have you bov fitted on the other side and it looks like the vec/boost feed to that comes off the power steering assist vac /boost pipe.

So your pipework is very different to standard factory pipework. Realy you will have to look at how the factory setup works and compare it to what you have and work out what is wrong. As I say, personally I would pull it all out and start again as I hate working with someone else's miss.
You are probably missing the restictor pills from the original pipe work which can cause issue.

[nos monkeys]

i tried looking for the original boost controller but no idea where it is? and i have asked to join the club it said something that someone will contact me for payment

[nos monkeys]

also when i checked the boost gauge its using a vacuum hose for it, is this ok? im not sure what hose a boost gauge is meant to use and im not sure if using a vacuum hose would effect the boost readings? I'm just paranoid because it says its running 5psi but if its stock 9psi it must go nuts because at 5psi imo it goes way to fast . . . which is why im scared the gauge is wrong and its way over boosting.

[Davezj]

Glad to hear you are intending to join and support the club.

Vac pipe should be fine.
If you are concerned, get a boost leak test done.
Other than that change the pipe for known good pipe.

[nos monkeys]

was reading through a thread i searched and you wrote on someones post ages ago saying this " you will probably hit fuel cut at about 4-5k revs not red line.
it should feel like you have lost all power and if you keep your foot down it will come back in a second or so, it will seem much longer, but doing this is not advisable." now this is excatly what my car is doing when im in 3rd gear with my foot down but the gauge says its only at 5psi. if im in town in first gear at 3/4 throttle it hauls ass like no tomorrow but still says 5psi. I googled around to check how to do boost leaks but kept getting mixed answers, i know how to make one of those pcv end plugs with a valve but some i read said not to use them where my bov is and back to the turbos because it will spin my turbos and wear the bearings out because it'l spin with no oil running through.

I really need to find someone on here that'l help me out lol well someone in the south island so i can drive to them ^.^ sounds like my legnum is all messed up with piping weird connections and all sorts. and im not sure how to get rid of the boost controller thats on there because i have no idea where im meant to put the waste gate lines when i take them off. I saw a picture of what the stock controller looked like but i cant see it anyway unless its well hidden.

Also the reason i brought this is because i needed a daily driver wagon for my new born and it cost me ever cent i had left because i brought it from an old married couple who seemed legit but turns out it was probably there sons car and just ruined it by not knowing what he was doing . . . although i don't have a clue what im upto at least i don't touch something im not sure of lol

Tomorrow ill check the boost gauge pipe to see if it has any kinks holes etc. then ill try figure out how to get rid of the bov and boost controller just so i can find out what boost it actually is running, i dont mind cruising it but i do suspect its over boosting evern though the gauge is saying otherwise and i dont intend on blowing it up anytime soon, want it running stock for reliability

I'm probably the most annoying person on here lol which is my bad. but i am greatful for all the help (:. Was just on google and found that my bov (blitz) can adjust from loose to tight, Maybe this is why it goes off when i bearly make boost and it stays open. This also could be where its leaking if its to loose and not shutting, I'll tighten it up tomorrow to see if any good comes from it. i just need to figure out where to connect my boost controller line or maybe thats fine and its just the bov, im probably wishfully thinking but worth a try.

[MarkSanne]

First of all: welcome!
Best advice I can think of is get is back into stock condition. This should keep cost down and you'll have a good reference point. Whatever comes up at that point this forum should be able to pinpoint and provide you with advice.

Second advice is use the search function on this forum. Most of the solutions to the issues mentioned are well described on here. There's little mystery left for these cars :)

Third advice: look to some informative video's on every subject you want to know more about: I have seen many, many of the videos from the youtube channel from eric the car guy (www.ericthecarguy.com). He has nothing to do with our VR4's (he's american) but he knows his car stuff, and Jap cars seem to have a real place. Honda & Subaru usually, alongside US brands, but that doesn't matter at all. He shows exactly what to do, how to do it, in simple laymans terms. I'd say it helped me to get some more insight and better understanding of how things work, being a true amateur mechanic, although I feel somewhat 'advanced' now that I've been tinkering with Galants for a good couple of years!

Search, read, watch and learn!

PS: removing the intake manifold for the 3 rear spark plugs is straightforward. No need to change the gasket usually.

[nos monkeys]

Cheers ill get those back plugs done today

[nos monkeys]

Alright well i have some progress.

There is a vacumm line missing from just after the throttle body, im assuming this is whats caled a boost leak/ making my gauge read inaccurate. i think i have found the stock boost controller. i am about to go upload and take photos to post on here just for some confirmation because im not sure where to put this hose once i remove my boost controller

[nos monkeys]

Where abouts do i attach this hose after i remove my boost controller. its the hose that goes to the powersteering assist (i think its the power steering assist) 65826 this metal pipe here im guessing is where i hook up this side waste gate line? because the pipe runs down to the back but also in the middle as a t section with a hose going to the box pictured which i think is the boost controller because it also has a line going to the intake pipe just after that turbo 65827 this here is the other side of the metal pipe, the bottom pipe which is blocked off i think the wastegate line goes to that as its the other end of the other pipe with the t section. But no idea what the top hose is for? do i block it off or attach a line somewhere? 65828 now this is the leak! there is nothing attached on here and it has vacumm when the engine is running and i think this is why my boost gauge reads 5psi even though it feels as if its free boosting. Do i block this off or add a line somewhere? does the line which is currently on my boost controller (not the 2 wastegate lines) attach here? 65829 just wanting someone to confirm this is the stock boost controller? it has a line from the intake then a line which goes to a t section and attaches to that pipe where both ends go to each one of the wastegate areas. 65830

Sorry if i made a mess with pictures and writing but tryed to do it the best i could so it's understandable


I left things how they were for now and just blocked up the leak on the intake manifold hoping it would fix my boost gauge. . . but it didn't still reads 5psi but im 99% sure its not 5psi because it goes to fast. it does run mint but i havent had it out on the open road yet i did it once and it was fuel cutting in 3rd at 4k rpm and haven't tried it since because im trying to fix everything so i know the gauge is working right.

Edit : I found this post here http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?56811-How-do-u-recognize-a-down-broken-turbo&highlight=vacuum+assist+power+steering had a full diagram of what i needed. put everything back to stock boost gauge still reads 5psi, took the hoses off so it was free boosting to make sure the gauge would rise. stayed at 5psi. I give up i think it has another vacuum line hidding which is unhooked and has nothing on it because no matter what i do the boost gauge reads 5psi. i even got a new line taped the gauge to my bonnet and connected it straight upto the intake changing the vacuum lines and still stayed the same. i still think its free boosting and i don't want it to be, im just going to drive it as it is but not go over 3500rpm. can't afford to risk any potential damage. there is that many random hoses that are already blocked off and pipes with nothing on them so who knows. really need someone familiar with these engines to have a look in person. but since im mr no mates and don't know a single person in the town i live in im pretty stuck and not going to go to a mechanic when it will cost me money because can't afford it.

[Nick Mann]

In pictures 2 and 3 I think the open lines are each end of the stock bov control line.
In picture 4 the open nozzle usually supplies the fpr solenoid.
In picture 5 you have put a red line round the stock boost solenoid. It looks like you are holding the outlet pipe from that which tees back into the inlet pipe work. The solenoid slightly higher in the photo is the fpr solenoid.

[nos monkeys]

hmm, does it matter that my fpr line is coming from another vacuum sorce? its coming off one of the lines on the air intake just before it attaches to the throttle body. the line on the intake i just blocked off for now. Still didnt help my boost gauge only reading 5psi still. i did hook all the wastegate and boost solenoid lines apart from the stock bov, im assuming its the thing on the passenger side under the bumper on that side of the intercooler but the nipple for the vacuum line on it has snapped so don't think its going to work again. the bov on it currently does work even though it stays open after it blows off but it does shut when i touch the throttle again. i just want an accurate boost reading but im sure there is another line disconnected just no idea where.

also im just not sure where the line in picture 1 is meant to go to, after i removed the boost controller i wasnt sure where it went so i just blocked it off for now.