Clunky Gear Shifts

[GregA]

Sorry if this was covered before, I'm pretty sure I've covered my searching basis...but if not, please link me!

Last March or so, I found under any form of throttle, my car would clunk hard trying to change up gears. Did the first thing that came to mind to fix it, ATF swap. Fixed it for a few months, but now it's coming back, and well...ATF is supposed to last quite long...A LOT longer then that...

Then I figured, if it's a bad trans trying to shift up for me, what if I use the tiptronic, and do it myself...Go out, give it a boot full, and same thing...horrible clunking sounds, and no shifting, because I haven't shifted yet...

Ideas? Please don't say new transmission...

[Tayhlor VR4]

That's why you always go manual ;) mitsi auto trans aren't very strong

[Nick Mann]

What ATF did you use?

Is the level on the HOT mark on the dipstick when checked after a short drive? (Short drive using as many gears as possible, stop on level ground, leave engine running and box in N, you might need to clean the dipstick several times to get a good reading as ATF has a tendancy to get on dipstick tube into the sump.)

[Confused]

As Nick said, first off, what ATF was used?

Also, be sure to correctly check the level by doing the process Nick describes. When stopping, I also always cycle between N-R-N-D-1-2-1-D-N-R-N a few times to ensure that all of the relevant pressure lines are full of ATF.

[crazydriver81]

Bad gear changes are normally the result of worn out ATF or even worse - a starting to fail gearbox. However, the easiest thing to do at this stage is, replacing the ATF. Go for it!


Mitsubishi suggests to change ATF every 45'000kms (including AT-Oilfilter - if you have an auto box with one). However many on here [me too] suggest to do the oil change latest every 30'000kms.

Please use only ATF with the right spec (Mitsubishi/Hyundai SP-III compliant ATF). Dexron is the wrong stuff. As you are in Canada, it will be easy for you to buy Amsoil ATF (the red capped type!). This is the best known oil and many of us are using it.

If you are about to service your tiptronic box, flush it completely and reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery. The fresh oil, together with the learning of the Tiptronic shift points will give best results. Just dropping the oil from the sump and replacing it with new ATF will leave approx 4l of old oil in the torque converter. A proper flush is highly recommended. You will need approx 12l of ATF to do a flush and refill.

Here are some helpful links:
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?20014-Taking-care-of-your-Tiptronic-gearbox
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?11295-ATF-How-to-Filter-Flush-and-Change-(VR-4)
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?10125-When-an-ATF-is-not-just-an-ATF
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?19516-Gearbox-oil-cooler

[elnevio]

That's why you always go manual ;) mitsi auto trans aren't very strong

Repeated launches up the drag strip with modified cars and +150bhp shots of nitrous suggest otherwise! /rally



And I agree with the others about the ATF. /yes

[SGHOM]

Repeated launches up the drag strip with modified cars and +150bhp shots of nitrous suggest otherwise! /yes

/bananaroc

[John TheAntique]

That's why you always go manual ;) mitsi auto trans aren't very strong

Where does this slur come from? I've seen it before but there seems to be little evidence to substantiate the claim. On the contrary, considering the amount of modifications that go on, our boxes seem to be remarkably strong and resilient.

[BubbaLeggyVR4]

Here here John
:beerchug:

[Z-Kev]

I don't believe Porsche made a bad gearbox, poor maintenance has affected them adversely

[GregA]

Thanks for the replies. I'll check on those links posted in a second here, and try the ATF check tomorrow after work in the daylight.

As far as the last change, it was done with Amsoil.

[crazydriver81]

Thanks for the replies. I'll check on those links posted in a second here, and try the ATF check tomorrow after work in the daylight.

As far as the last change, it was done with Amsoil.

How many kms did you drove since it was changed?
Have you done a full flush or only dropped oil and refilled the sump?
Did you reset the ECU after the change?

[GregA]

Ok, so it's been a bit of time, I kinda got sidetracked with life.

I pulled my old bill from the previous shop that did the ATF swap, and I realized that they never billed me for a filter, annnnd most of the staff there aren't there anymore, so I was really doubting the quality of work they could have done. Ended up finding an automatic transmission shop, supplied the filter and Amsoil, and had it flushed (providing the directions and pictures from on here)...Long story short, that didn't fix it. It made it 85-90% better, but there are some definite little clunks and such that still happen.

Anyways, thanks for the above links and hints, reps added.

[Nick Mann]

Live with it for a while. Amsoil can clean up the gunk from the box which might make it better. If it is showing improvement after the oil change then hopefully it is not a serious mechanical issue but just a glazed clutch pack.

[crazydriver81]

Agree with Nick. Let the Amsoil work a while in the gearbox. Gearbox may need 500kms to re-learn and settle completely. If the oil change has improved the situation it is not likely, that there is a mechanical fault. And another thing is about the temps in your area. Usual winter or temps well below the 0°C-point?

[GregA]

Usual winter temps, -10 at the worst, but lately it's all been 2-10 degrees.