I'm probably paranoid but. . .

[nos monkeys]

I do remember being told that if my ayc fluid in the boot filler is being used its most likely seeping through my rear diff seals? is that correct?

i changed the ayc fluid and diff oil and put new fluid into the filler in the boot not long ago and since then today was the first time iv driven it and only done like 40kms and noticed when pulling into a park going slow my back end started to lock up and skid and the ayc lights went upto 2 bars yet i was doing under 5kms coming to a slow stop while turning. not sure what the deal was here? but i decided to check the fluid in the boot for the ayc and noticed its used like 1/2 a dipstick full of fluid. what are the reasons for this?

the car had no ayc fluid in the boot filler and none in the diff itself when i changed it not long ago, like all the ayc unit was completely dry and the previous owner just ripped out the fuse. could the 1/2 tank full just be because there was an airlock in the lines or something and it just needs topping up again?

I dont have money to get a new diff or fix this. but would be good to see what other causes it could be, otherwise it can just stay as it is untill the problem gets worse or something.

[Nick Mann]

It could well be an airlock that has caused the level to drop. As to why you got ayc activation I have no idea. Was one wheel over a wet metal drain cover?

[nos monkeys]

nah the road was dry and it just somehow acted like it was locking up for no reason has only done it once. so may just need wearing in god knows how long they drove the car without any ayc fluid in the diff or filler bottle.

ill keep an eye out on the fluid and top it up but if it does keep dropping and there are no leaks anywhere along the piping underneath, the only place it would be leaking is into my diff? and if so how bad is that? should i disconnect the ayc and drain the fluid and just keep it like an open diff or just drive it as it is untill further problems. not keen to spend more money on fixing properly as im more than broke now.

[Davezj]

how was the fluid in the AYC tank in the boot filled, it has to have a propper bleeding proceedure done on it. which is quite involved. you can not just fill the tank and drive.
the ayc diff can just be drained and refilled.
if the ayc diff was drained by the previous owner and disabled by removing the fuse, i would have thought the ayc clutch packs would be trashed. they have to have ayc fluid in the clutch packs weather they are working or not.
There is nothing you can do about what the previous ower did, you just have monitor what is going now and if the AYC tank the boot was not bleed correctly when it was filled, then get it done as soon as possible.

if you want to disable the ayc leave the fluid in the diff and just remove the fuse. don't ever drain the diff and use the car. the clutch packs will eventually destroy themselves and potentially start locking up when you don't want them to due to bits of the broken clutch plates being thrown about inside the diff.

[Nick Mann]

I'd top it up and keep an eye on it for a while. Did you bleed the system any way when you filled the boot reservoir?

If it makes any funny noises or acts up again, then I'd be inclined to assume that the system was decommissioned due to problems. I wouldn't empty the fluids again if you are going to disable it, just pull the fuse or the relay.

[nos monkeys]

yeah i wasnt going to empty the fluids, and they told me the ayc works fine and the light only comes on when the car is cold. so they were full of it from the start. i filled the ayc packs and just topped up the filler bottle, i never got the system bleed. i should of got that done when i took it in for the cambelt. ill see if any future problems arise then get the system bleed, if that fails ill pull the fuse and remove the bulb from the dash so i dont have to see the stupid red light.

Would driving it around town slowly not making the ayc activate be better for me to see if there is any other problems or should i take it for a spin on a gravel patch so the ayc gets active again and check its not doing anything it shouldnt and make sure there are no weird noises ( i dont want to take it for a thrash if it wont be able to handle it, no idea how well the running gear handles if it's all in good order).
The ayc clutch packs could already be stuffed which is why it caused it to try lock up when i wasn't even doing anything to make it work.

[nos monkeys]

it seems to try lock up when pulling slowly into a park turning full lock the lights go upto 2 bars and the back end starts creeking like the wheels are trying to lock, seems to work fine driving normally though, so who knows.

[Davezj]

not sure what the best way to proceed is.

i would be tempeted to just drive it very gently without activating the ayc, to ensure the clutch pack are nice and wet and get rehydrated with atf fluid, then get the pump system bled and see what happens.
if the diff is quiet and the red light on the dash comes on, then you need to read the fault codes and see what they say. 82 is a very comon code and that suggests that the pump is not producing enough pressure to operate the systems. this is when everybody goes for an adjustable pressure switch to replace the standard fixed pressure switch on the pump, to see if you can bring it back to life, and operate the sysem at a slightly lower pressure than factory set point.

if it does not function properly then leave the fluids in and pull the fuse, as nick says above.

[nos monkeys]

i did check the codes the other day and the only ayc code i got was maybe a 43, i can't quite remember ill have a quick look on my other posts because im sure i put it in there as well, but i had no idea how to go about trying to fix that code so i just left it lol i cant really afford to take it back to get the system bleed but i might have a go doing it myself on axle stands

The diff is very quite though and no other noises or clunks apart from the weird ayc thing it does. tomorrow im going to go for an hour drive and hopefully it all goes well and i meet no other problems or weird things with this car

[nos monkeys]

code 41 on the ayc light is what i have remaining which im not sure how to go about finding the fault and fixing. not even sure what that code is for either. i just assumed it wasnt anything to bad since the red light was gone and the green lights work, but that was before i found out about this new problem.

it defiantly only does it when at full steering lock coming to a slow stop.

[Davezj]

sorry i forgot to say you should delete al the error codes you currently have first and then you know any codes you see are real and not just old ones from months agao.

just disconnect the battery for 20 second and this will delete all the current stored codes.

but if you have a auto then it will reset the theat ecu as well and you will loose the silky gear shifts until it releans your style of driving, but it will come back in about 10 miles, but the real silky shift will take a little longer about 50-100 miles of driving. so don't worry if the auto box seems a bit rough when it changes gear, it will get better very quickly.

[nos monkeys]

its a manual so dont need to worry about that, i did take the battery off when i checked the codes to make sure they were all new, any chance you know where to look for the fault for error code 41? 41 TPS system (short or break) < not sure what that means :(

[Davezj]

do you have evoscan?
you can check the tps sensor function in the software. fully closed is about 11-12% and full open should be 96%.

then you can do a resistance check on the tps sensor to the ECU and start wiggling the wires to see if it an intermitant fault.
the code below
41 TPS system (broken wire or short circuit) approximately 27− 20

the numbers on the end of the error code tells you which diagnostic flow chart to look at in the jap language workshop manual. you will have to translate the flow chart yourself, using goole tanslate, bable fish, or something like that. 27 is the section number of the manual and 20 is the page number flow chart 41 is at the bottom you can see it says 41 TPS.
jap manual is here in the library,
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?65174-Jap-workshop-Manual-PDF-s&highlight=jap+workshop+manual+pdf

all reputation point accepted.
just click the Star at the bottom left of this post under my details.

[nos monkeys]

oh so that is the throttle position sensor (tps) i thought it was something else since it was tha ayc light code not the engine light code. i dont have access to evo scan. is there any other way to check the tps is set right?

on my 300zx to check all i do is use a volt meter and get it to read about 0.04volts close then like 0.06 open ( well those numbers are probably wrong butt just a basic how i check my 300zx one just cant remember the numbers off the top of my head lol)

ill look at that link now

cheers

[nos monkeys]

i translated that page and i think i can solve this mystery, is there a ayc ecu if so where abouts, the translated page suggests there is an ayc ecu? or am i reading it wrong

[TAR]

I don't think the TPS code 41 has anything to do with your AYC fault.

There is an AYC ecu, its located in the passenger foot well (on the outer side) to the left and behind the glove box. Its a pain to get at unless you have hand the size of a 5 year old!

:happy:

[nos monkeys]

probably not but im semi familiar with sorting out a faulty tps so will have a look at that anyway, my hands are almost the size of a 5 year olds lol

[Davezj]

if you have a look at the flow chart you can see the 41 TPS and it mentions AYC, but the rest is in japanese and you will have to translate it if you want to know what it says.

[Gly]

nah the road was dry and it just somehow acted like it was locking up for no reason has only done it once. so may just need wearing in god knows how long they drove the car without any ayc fluid in the diff or filler bottle.

ill keep an eye out on the fluid and top it up but if it does keep dropping and there are no leaks anywhere along the piping underneath, the only place it would be leaking is into my diff? and if so how bad is that? should i disconnect the ayc and drain the fluid and just keep it like an open diff or just drive it as it is untill further problems. not keen to spend more money on fixing properly as im more than broke now.

if its locking up already, theres something mechanical broken inside already.

when it ****s itself, it may or maynot be dramatic..... im an expert in breaking AYC units 4 dead and have since ditched it in favor of a evo plate LSD

3 i managed to nurse home... one on the back of a flatbed. car completely locked up on a main road during rush hour

also EVERY time its been a right hand turn, with a fair bit of go juice. so just be very gentle if you plan on driving anywhere

luckily each time its happened its been VERY near home.

[nos monkeys]

if its locking up already, theres something mechanical broken inside already.

when it ****s itself, it may or maynot be dramatic..... im an expert in breaking AYC units 4 dead and have since ditched it in favor of a evo plate LSD

3 i managed to nurse home... one on the back of a flatbed. car completely locked up on a main road during rush hour

also EVERY time its been a right hand turn, with a fair bit of go juice. so just be very gentle if you plan on driving anywhere

luckily each time its happened its been VERY near home.


just got back from an hour drive today and it did start making funny noises when turning right only when it got to 2 bars ayc light, i just pulled out the fuse on the way home and no noises. my diff will be fine now with the fuse unplugged?

Also when going from 5th to 4th its hard to find, like from 3rd-4th isnt straight down 4th gear slots over to the left diagonally and not straight back, its only 4th gear and this is why its hard going from 5th to 4th because its on a diagonal and im paranoid that its going from 5th-2nd because thats how far away it is. any ideas what this is or is that normal, it could just be a bent 4th gear selector or something?

[Nick Mann]

Gear selection issues are often caused by the brackets that hold the cables at the gearbox end. There is rubber bonded to some u shaped brackets and it separates over time.

[nos monkeys]

that could be it, ill add that to my list of things to check one day, for now ill just get use to it. but grr when i got home after the car was warmed there was an awfull ticking/squeeling noise only at idle when i give it a rev it goes away but it sounds like the belt is to tight or lose and only happened since the cambelt was done. so ill go back into mitsi on monday and ask whats up. i just dont want it to be the cambelt rubbing or something. apart from that im getting close to it being a daily driver without problems lol