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Roberto
13-02-2005, 12:10 AM
I had the VR4 serviced (Mitsu main dealer), but was told they could not change the AYC fluid because they did not have the software to talk to it. They say the pump has to be running for them to be able to change the fluid.

Only system he knows of to talk to it is in the North of Ireland, I'm in the Republic. Not many EVOs and only 2 VR4s in the country that I am aware of, my Legnum and a Galant, that I see every now and again, so thay don't have the call for the software.

Does anyone out there know of an easy way to change it and how often it should be changed?

:huh2:

Rally205
13-02-2005, 12:22 AM
The AYC fluid needs changing every 9000 miles now that Mitsy have upgraded the fluid. It used to be every 4500 miles.

It is possible to change the fluid without using an MUT II tester although it is awkward to get at the fill plug on the diff. There is an article on it in the members area. /yes

Roadrunner
13-02-2005, 03:43 PM
The AYC fluid needs changing every 9000 miles now that Mitsy have upgraded the fluid. It used to be every 4500 miles.
That's the official line. Following a discussion with my local Mitsubishi dealer, I now have mine changed every 18k miles and it's fine. If the car gets ragged constantly, then by all means stick to the 4.5k (or 9k) changes. If you don't change it, you'll know when you need to because the rear clutches will start to grate a bit - still not doing any damage at the initial stages but a definite sign you need to change the fluids.

Legnum Boy
13-02-2005, 03:55 PM
So, with that in mind, and advice from someone about oil changes..... now using Silkolene PRO S 5w-40 I can extend my service intervals to 6000 miles. :drummer:

With all that lovely money I will save, I can afford to get some new pads and disc's..... /yes

Zeke
13-02-2005, 04:22 PM
So, with that in mind, and advice from someone about oil changes..... now using Silkolene PRO S 5w-40 I can extend my service intervals to 6000 miles. :drummer:

With all that lovely money I will save, I can afford to get some new pads and disc's..... /yes

Keep to the recommended weights by Mitsu for appropriate ambient temps. Use 10W30 for the colder seasons and def. 15W50 for summer.

Legnum Boy
13-02-2005, 04:31 PM
Keep to the recommended weights by Mitsu for appropriate ambient temps

errr... nope...

This advice was given impartially and based on my cars daily usage... :)

Zeke
13-02-2005, 06:23 PM
errr... nope...

This advice was given impartially and based on my cars daily usage... :)

Not sure what you meant, but to use 5W40 all season? Hmm.. But then again I am super anal and want the best treatment for my engine. If you feel that way too then change oil 3x a year irregardless of mileage (even if it sits in a garage all winter).
I use 10W30 for winter and 15W50 for summer. Mobil1 for both, their 15W50 Synthetic was specially designed for turbocharged vehicles in hot weather. Then you can use a magnetic filter to show your true :smitten: .


"Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect."

Oil Data & Explanation (http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html)
Oil Change Bible (http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/index.html?menu.html&engineoil_bible.html)

Legnum Boy
13-02-2005, 10:20 PM
Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect.

5w/40 is about perfect then.... 3000 miles is too anal IMHO, for my driving style. I will just change the oil when it looks like it needs it from now on... /yes

paulmc
13-02-2005, 11:02 PM
you don't need the mut to change the ayc fluid. you only need it if you are changing the fluid reservoir in the boot, this fluid works the ayc actuator.

If you are changing the fluid in the clutch area just drain it then refill no bleeding necessary. When this fluid gets contaminated with small pieces of the clutches it starts making funny noises. Flush through with cheap fluid then fill with good stuff.

Paul

Kieran
05-07-2005, 11:22 PM
Okay - I'm getting confused.

Can someone provide an answer to this question. The AYC Fluid needs changing every 4500 miles according to ralliart. But which fluid is it?!

Is it the rear diff oil?

The AYC Clutch Pack fluid?

Or the Hydraulic actuator fluid, which is the thing that supposedly needs the MUT-II?

Secondly.... Regarding the hydraulic actuator fluid.... Seeing as there's a reservioir in the boot, in theory, if you were to syringe almost all of the 'old' fluid out of the reservoir, then refill with fresh, then run the car to circulate the new fluid, then repeat a couple of times, would this not have the (eventual) effect of changing the fluid without the need of a MUT-II?

Rally205
06-07-2005, 09:33 AM
K

It is the clutch pack fluid which requires replacing every 4500 although I have been told by my dealer that this has been extended to 18000 due to an improved AYC fluid.

The way I change the fluid in the reservoir/actuator is to remove the two pressure pipes going into the diff and let all the fluid drain out. Then re-fill and open the bleed nipples to let any air out. Close the nipples again. Jack the car up and put it on stands so that all 4 wheels are off the ground. Start the car and put it in drive. The AYC will light up and operate the pump. Let it run for about 10-15 seconds. Turn it off and open the bleed nipples again to let out the air that will have built up again. If you have fluid coming out of the nipples the job is done. If not repeat the baove until you have fluid at the nipple.

Top up the reservoir and have a cuppa.

Disclaimer:
I accept no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle as a result of carrying out the above procedure. It is intended as a guide only and extreme caution should be used under all circumstances to avoid personal injury and/or damage to property. :thumbsup:

Kieran
06-07-2005, 04:10 PM
Spot on - Cheers Marcus :thumbsup: