what about fuelpump/AFR/FPR.

[Yacuza]

Hi

I'm thinkin of buying a fuelpump, tryed to read all the post's on CVR4, but there are some issues i hope i can get an answer to..

: I dont want a noizy fuelpump ( walbro does seems to be that, after Reading what you guys have posted ) So which one os the less noizy out there??, also some People Wrote i need to put a constant 12v on the pump, but then again it will wear the pump out much faster.. So why putting 12v into it then?? :

: AFR .. i have used Innovate before.. Any thoughts that might work ok With the VR4 OEM ECU

: FPR .. So i have to use this With a bigger fuelpump, no matter what i Guess.. (?)

My uppgrades will soon be: Hard pipe kit ( thanks to Swinks awsome post ) HID FMIC - 0.9 bar preassure ( solonoid bypass) or With boost Controller. Dont know if i will go for manual one or Electric gauge Controller.. Any thoughts?
The car has 3" from downpipes With cat's for now..

Thanks guys. I know alot of the stuff is written before.. But after Reading 10 posts on each topic i loose my consentration and has to start over again and again and agian.

So its easyer to put it up in one post..

[Nick Mann]

The Walbro is fine as long as you don't hotwire it. Not noisy at all. I use a Walbro and have no issues at all.
AFR - personal choice. You need narrowband emulation if you want to link it to the stock ecu to control afr on closed loop.
FPR - uprated pumps are able to overload the stock fpr. It seems foolish to me to upgrade the pump and not the fpr.

The question back at you is why do you want to do this upgrade? There is no real need unless you want to go hunting for power.

[rajvr497]

walbro 225lph is the best bet,together with an AEM or an AEROMOTIVE fuel reg.As Nick Mann said,it tends to pressure the stock fuel regulator.

[swinks]

Walbro pump are good ones. Only if genuine. They don't need hotwire, also coming with foam sleeve to deal with noise. Also Aeromotive pumps coming with foam sleeve. But if needed you can made one yourself from piece of domestic plumbing thermal insulation.
Having uprated fuel pump you will need regulated for. The best is Tomei one. Also SARD or Aeromotive are good. You need to set up fuel rail pressure to 3 - 3.1 bar atmospheric.
As for aft wideband. Personal choice between AEM, PLX and Innovate. I like 1st one.

[Yacuza]

Thanks guys.. Should i stay at 47-49 PSI at 0.9 boost on the FPR?

But what does People gain to hotwire the pump?? If its silent without hotwiring it i'll go for the walbro 4sure..

Well im hunting for Power at the end of my bulid Nick Man, need to sort out all the bumps in forhand :)

Is it ok to boost it up to 0.9 on a Stock ECU With the Upgrades like 3" exhaust, hardpipekit and HID FMIC? I was thinkin of going for an 52mm el gauge Controller but a friend of mine told me to og for manual. Like he has on his 500 hp Audi. I have 6 52mm holes to fill up in the car, thats why i want it in a gauge :D

[Yacuza]

Thanks Swinks :) as always

[Nick Mann]

0.9 bar should be fine on stock fuel components. Monitoring AFR is always a good bet when boosting though.

[crazydriver81]

But what does People gain to hotwire the pump??

Hotwiring the fuel pump is a modification for the stock fuel pump. As fa as I know, the fuel pump voltage is regulated by ECU. According to load of the engine, the fuel pump gets alternating Volts to control operation. Hotwiring the fuel pump will avoid the alternating voltages, so that the fuel pump always flows maximum (max fuel pressure).

You can either hotwire the stock fuel pump, so that it always flows maximum - or you can go with a Walbro / TME fuel pump, which flows more even when it gets controlled voltage from ECU. If you still have the OE fuel pump assembly from the 2.0l you have the chassis from, it is senseless to think about hotwiring the stock fuel pump.

I personally have a TRE 342 fuel pump as I wanted to avoid a loud whine as known from Walbro fuel pumps. It is a 255LPH pump I bought from TRE in the US and I am absolutely happy with it (works with stock FPR and is absolutely silent).

[swinks]

Thanks guys.. Should i stay at 47-49 PSI at 0.9 boost on the FPR?

Nope. That's not how you setting fuel pressure ;)
Once adjustable fpr fitted, you need to disconnect from fpr vacuum hose, that way your fpr gets ambient atmospheric pressure. At that point you adjust fuel line pressure (by grub screw) to 3 - 3.1 bar range. For regular driving, 3 bar is better, for modified cars pressure 3.1 to 3.2 is more desirable. Once set, after connecting vacuum line, fuel pressure should drop by 0.4 - 05 bar (depends how strong vacuum is produced by engine on idle).
Stetting adjustable fpr should be done on warm/hot engine.

Hotwiring of fuel pumps is necesary to some aftermarket uprated pumps (i.e. TRE). It's because in Galant/Legnum VR4 fuel pump voltage is "progressive" hence on idle pump gets low 7v ish. Some uprated pumps require constant 12v, and can't cope with low voltage on idle or cruise conditions. That may lead even to pump switch off itself and fuel starvation.
Walbro, Aeromotive pumps are already adopted to changing progressive voltage and work perfect without hotwiring. Whatsmore, bigger Aeoromotive pumps (340lph) can't be hotwired, because they may produce too much fuel flow, and fpr may not cope, hence overfuelling occurs.

Before modification to fuel system, I recommend you to get your injectors professionally cleaned and checked. You would be surprised with positive results after proper clean and service them.

[Yacuza]

Thanks for replying all of you.
Ok then I can go for a TRE 242 Walbro pump standard wiring, set the FPR at 3.0-3.1 bar, use a good AFR guage from AEM or innovate.

What is the oem fuel injectors number? I guess it Bosch somthing. I don't know of a company in Norway that even does cleaning of injectors :D
This contry blows on so many levels :)

[crazydriver81]

Thanks for replying all of you.
Ok then I can go for a TRE 242 Walbro pump standard wiring, set the FPR at 3.0-3.1 bar, use a good AFR guage from AEM or innovate.

What is the oem fuel injectors number? I guess it Bosch somthing. I don't know of a company in Norway that even does cleaning of injectors :D
This contry blows on so many levels :)

Are you still running stock engine components? Why not start with the TRE 342 / Walbro GSS342 fuel pump on stock wiring and stock FPR - as long as you are running stock components.

When you are going to aim for more hp - then the FPR comes into game. Then you can hotwire the upgraded fuel pump and regulate fuel pressure by the aftermarket FPR.

As far as the AFR gauge is concerned, I can highly recommend PLX Devices SM-AFR with DM-6 gauge. No need to calibrate the sensor from time to time and it has a narrowband output (for stock ECU) and a wideband output for aftermarket ECU's or data logging.

Just my thoughts - at least I have done it like that and all runs fine.

[Yacuza]

Are you still running stock engine components? Why not start with the TRE 342 / Walbro GSS342 fuel pump on stock wiring and stock FPR - as long as you are running stock components.

When you are going to aim for more hp - then the FPR comes into game. Then you can hotwire the upgraded fuel pump and regulate fuel pressure by the aftermarket FPR.

As far as the AFR gauge is concerned, I can highly recommend PLX Devices SM-AFR with DM-6 gauge. No need to calibrate the sensor from time to time and it has a narrowband output (for stock ECU) and a wideband output for aftermarket ECU's or data logging.

Just my thoughts - at least I have done it like that and all runs fine.

Hi.
Yes for now im driving Stock engine. Thats because i need to take it to TÜV Germany as Stock car.. But im going to buy all sorts of Upgrades now to have it ready too tear the engine apart and have ALL engine custom made. :) from oilsump to engine cover.. Well that is the plan anyway..
There it is again, hot wiring the pump hmmm....
Thanks for the recomandation on the AFR :)

[swinks]

You may need hot wire TRE pump. Walbro doesn't need one.

Injectors are Denso 390cc high impedance, top feed. Any professional workshop which does ultrasonic cleaning will do a job. Usual price is 15 - 20 GBP per injector. And you should get flow charts before and after.
Had seen few adverts even on eBay.

[Davezj]

you can hotwire the TRE pump with just a jumper wire in the engine bay, 5 min job, that is the way i did mine, you just bypass the dropper resistor on the engie bulkhead.

[Yacuza]

I thought the TRE and the Walbro was the same pump.. Spoke to my mechaninc and he said that the VR4 fuelpump was damaged, so he fitted the Stock 2.0GLS pump in the VR4 tank.. ooppssyyy.. So i just bought one :D

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-WALBRO-GSS342-255LPH-255-LPH-High-Pressure-Intank-Fuel-Pump-MADE-IN-USA-/181226881914?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a31f6c37a&vxp=mtr

Ok then i'll check upon the fuel injector thingy and see if there are someone in Norway that does this.

Thanks

[Yacuza]

You may need hot wire TRE pump. Walbro doesn't need one.

Injectors are Denso 390cc high impedance, top feed. Any professional workshop which does ultrasonic cleaning will do a job. Usual price is 15 - 20 GBP per injector. And you should get flow charts before and after.
Had seen few adverts even on eBay.

Denso injectors sucks i.m.o Can it be changed to Bosch?? I have a supplyer that can give me ANY injectors for about 15-20£ each injector.. B-O-S-C-H :D

[Yacuza]

Since my oem car is 2.0 GLS 1999 and my engine swap is late -96, will this kit work on my car? This kit has an OBDII conector, but the Q is, does my car have OBDII, if it does, would it make up correctly With engine swap??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plx-Devices-DM-100-Obd-Ii-Touch-Universal-Multigauge-Display-/171339879027?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e4a71273&vxp=mtr

Hope it Works.
Also going With two DM-6 kit, boost and AFR
The kit that i linked is going to monitor exhaust temp, oil temp and air temp before and after intercooler..

So what do you think guys?? Is it a no-go or just plug and play'ish?

Best Regards

[Nick Mann]

The VR4 is not OBDII compliant. I'd imagine that your 2.0 also isn't, but even if it is you must be using the VR4 ecu?

I'd still go for PLX stuff though. I have once and I would again!

[Yacuza]

I use the VR4 ecu yes.
Ok skip the link then and go for single set up.. need to change my basket then. PLX all the way

[Yacuza]

Just bought Aeromotive A1000 Fuelpressure regulator, when i take of the vacuum hose, should i clamp/Block that vacuum line before adjusting to 3. - 3.1 bar swinks ??

[swinks]

Just bought Aeromotive A1000 Fuelpressure regulator, when i take of the vacuum hose, should i clamp/Block that vacuum line before adjusting to 3. - 3.1 bar swinks ??
No, disconect vacuum hose and leave vcuum port unblocked. You need atmospheric pressure as reference. Once disconnected vacuum, set up fuel line pressure at 3 - 3.1 bar.
Are you sure you have right part? A1000 is a external in-line fuel pump.

[Yacuza]

Ok like that :) Thanks.:

I bought this..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AEROMOTIVE-A1000-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-KIT-13101-/221468944950

BUT... After i bought it i found this one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Gauge-Kit-Fittings-With-Oil-Line-BLACK-RED-/271436130410?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f32daa86a&vxp=mtr

Extremely difference in price, to me it looks the same ( Even better actually since it has black rail adapter ).. Thoughts ? is it fake or something?

[swinks]

You bought Aeromotive 13101 fpr. Not really good for standard vr4 setting because this fpr is designed to work with A1000 external pump. It has big AN-10 inlet ports, way to big for 6A13tt fuel feed. It has also 2 inlet ports for use parallel lines (separate feed for both heads), hence popular with tuning big v8 or v10 engines in US.
You need Aeromotive 13109 or 13129. I used the later one.
"A1000" is often used as name for whole setup based on external fuel pump, not fpr.

[Yacuza]

Thanks man :)
I got hold of the seller before he shipped it and the order is now changed to 13129 :)