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mattnz
20-05-2014, 03:14 AM
Has anyone here used these before? Any particular issue with VR4s?

CANDEE
20-05-2014, 04:40 AM
What exactly are you talking about?

wintertidenz
20-05-2014, 05:25 AM
You mean one of these?

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=SF5125

Personally I'd rather run a separate fused wire from the battery, than take a feed from something else.

mattnz
20-05-2014, 06:08 AM
Sorry, forgot to put in the link :)

That's what I was looking at. Running a separate wire from the battery seems like a lot of work compared to just taking 12V from the interior fuse box.

Nick Mann
20-05-2014, 09:25 AM
How much power do you need?
If it is less than one amp for some led lighting then the interior fuse box should be fine. If it is a powerful amplifier then straight from the battery is the only sensible solution.

CANDEE
20-05-2014, 10:46 AM
For an amp you should run is separately to the cars power... its not that hard in a vr to run the wire. Try doing it on a CF4 Torneo...

mattnz
20-05-2014, 02:07 PM
It's for a USB charger, so I suspect that it will be fine, providing a suitable fuse is found. I do have a separate fused wire from the battery for my sub amp, I don't know why it's been assumed that I plan on tapping the fusebox for a power amp or george foreman grill :P

Although I'm a bit disappointed I didn't know about them when installing the gauges.

Nick Mann
20-05-2014, 02:23 PM
Why not splice in to another circuit? The cigarette lighter and head unit circuits are both convenient for dash area stuff, choice would depend on current requirements I guess. I have used those for my couple of bits and bobs in the past. Most circuits have some headroom from a current point of view, so providing the fuse on that circuit is appropriate it shouldn't be a big deal?

mattnz
20-05-2014, 11:44 PM
From what I can see, putting in a fuse tap is effectively splicing into another circuit, but has the advantage of being easily removable (as well as not relying so heavily on my soldering skills haha)