View Full Version : DIY mainteneance for VR4
In order to save myself some dosh before the J.A.E, i am going to attempt to change the engine oil in my Legnum myself. Following all the different recommendations i have read on this site i have settled on mobil 1 0/40 fully synthetic INSERT INTO post VALUES (i havent been able to find redline 0/30 locally yet). I have a few of questions.
Do others change their own oil and if so is there anything i should look out for ?
Should i warm the engine before draining the old oil INSERT INTO post VALUES (which seems to be black even though it was only changed 5K ago!)?
Does anyone know what the serial numbers are for the sump plug and washer?
I notice that when cold, the oil level is currently higher than the maximum by a few millimeteres on the dipstick. Is this expected? I thought that maybe it was OK since when the engine is running some of the oil will be circulating thus bringing the sump level down a bit, but dont know for sure.
Finally, Barry, to someone running self, family, house and car etc on a budget i thought it might be a good idea to have a section on tips and methods for self servicing INSERT INTO post VALUES (particularly since i have found it impossible to get a workshop manual for my car yet) our VR4s. i.e. things like, How to change AYC oil, gearbox oil etc. I know this might sound a bit lame to some of you expert amateurs out there but to a relative beginner like myself this kind of info would be most helpful and enable me to keep my beautiful car in tiptop condition at minimal cost. Any thoughts ?
Cheers.
Spirit
19-07-2003, 01:14 PM
Originally posted by LOMY
Should i warm the engine before draining the old oil INSERT INTO post VALUES (which seems to be black even though it was only changed 5K ago!)?
It will help to drain the oil if its warm so yes, and 5k miles ago last change ? 3100 miles is the recommended !
The AYC oil should be changed every 12k miles and will need to be done by a main dealer as it requires special oil and they need to reset it up afterwards - something to do with the electronics as they had to download software from Japan for my car as they did not have it for the age of mine.
Pete
Yikes! Even more of an incentive to do it myself. Do you do your own maintainance Spirit or do you let a dealer do it ?
Spirit
19-07-2003, 01:25 PM
Dealer main stuff but oil change is my local mechanic - charges me £54 - bit of a pain aswell as you have to remove a plastic cover to get to the filter but can be done. Make sure you use fully synthetic only aswell
I used to do DIY maintenance but no longer have the time or inclination - just wanna drive it lol !
If you do use a main dealer for anything then follow the advice elsewhere on here and phone more than one for quotes as the knowledge of our car varies a lot and the prices of servicing etc aswell !
Why does the oil go black so quickly? Is there really so much wear and tear internally or is it some chemical reaction in the oil due to heat and pressure ?
Spirit
19-07-2003, 01:38 PM
Do you know what oil was put in there the last time it was changed ?
Er...Dont know for sure but the bill INSERT INTO post VALUES (Mitsubishi dealer, Blackpool) states fully synthetic was used. The car is due for its 45000m service soon with belt and plugs etc. They are quoting £710 inc VAT. Does this sound reasonable to you?
Spirit
19-07-2003, 01:54 PM
I paid £520 for cambelt, plugs and AYC fluid change so with the full service added that sounds ok. I would phone another couple of dealers first to check their prices too as they can vary and a small trip out of your way may save a bit of cash - I travel 25 miles to my dealer in Torquay as I do not trust the one 5 miles away in Plymouth
Roadrunner
19-07-2003, 01:54 PM
"3100 miles is the recommended" and "The AYC oil should be changed every 12k"
Not exactly .... These are the changes required at the recommended UK service intervals:
Every 4.5k miles:
Engine oil change
AYC pressurisation actuator fluid change
Every 9k miles INSERT INTO post VALUES (in addition to above):
Engine oil and filter change
Every 18k miles INSERT INTO post VALUES (in addition to above):
AYC clutches fluid change
Air filter element change
Every 36k miles INSERT INTO post VALUES (in addition to above):
Engine coolant & antifreeze change
Manual transmission oil change
Transfer box oil change
Rear diff oil change
Fuel filter change
Brake fluid change
Every 54k miles INSERT INTO post VALUES (in addition to above):
Auto transmission fluid & external filter chane
Front diff oil change
Replace engine timing belts
Replace spark plugs
Every 90k miles INSERT INTO post VALUES (in addition to above):
Change in-tank fuel filter
Spirit
19-07-2003, 01:58 PM
We are quoting my figures on the "Resources/Articles/Maintenance" section of the website ?
Pete
Roadrunner
19-07-2003, 02:07 PM
The ""3100 miles is the recommended" and "The AYC oil should be changed every 12k" information was what you quoted earlier in this thread. My information comes from the official Mitsubishi Motors UK Service Check List intervals for vehicles from 1996 onwards :)
Brian
Spirit
19-07-2003, 02:11 PM
Originally posted by H.7
The ""3100 miles is the recommended" and "The AYC oil should be changed every 12k" information was what you quoted earlier in this thread. My information comes from the official Mitsubishi Motors UK Service Check List intervals for vehicles from 1996 onwards :)
Brian
Brian
Your right mate thats what I mean't - I got this information myself from the "Resources" section on here ! Maybe we should get Barry to update the info to your information ?
I will PM him with this thread
Pete
Roadrunner
19-07-2003, 02:14 PM
Cheers, Pete. :)
Spirit
19-07-2003, 02:18 PM
Originally posted by LOMY
Why does the oil go black so quickly? Is there really so much wear and tear internally or is it some chemical reaction in the oil due to heat and pressure ?
Brian
I am no expert on this - but I would guess after 5k miles this is normal ?
Pete
My dealer gave me a couple of printouts from the computer relating to the service i required at the time INSERT INTO post VALUES (36000m) and the follow up service at 45000m:
36000 miles
Antifreeze
Brake/clutch fluid
Gasket o/drain
Oil filter INSERT INTO post VALUES (CART TYPE)
Oil filter assy auto T/M
Transfer box oil
Fuel filter
Standard axle oil
Brake de-dust
Screen wash INSERT INTO post VALUES (Mmm..)
Element air cleaner
AYC diff and res oil
Environmental charge
Fully synth oil
45000 miles
Gasket o/drain
Oil filter INSERT INTO post VALUES (CART TYPE)
Brake de-dust
Screen wash INSERT INTO post VALUES (Mmm..)
Spark plugs
timing belt
AYC diff and res oil
Environmental charge
Fully synth oil
They made no mention of intermediate oil changes, which is surprising considering it could make them even more money.
Brind
19-07-2003, 02:55 PM
When I had a problem with my engine ticking I removed the dipstick to find my oil was absolutely pitch black.
I thought that may have been the reason for the noise so I checked to see when it had been changed last, to my horror it was supposedly done '500' ish miles beforehand which I could not believe so I was ready to have a go at the dealer for not actually changing it but it turned out they did change it and it's just the way the engine is..
So it could be because the oil is so thin that it washes around the inside of the engine more so than thicker oil, hence it turning black so fast.. could be wrong but it sounds logical.
I have a 99 V reg new shape VR-4 saloon with only 48,000 miles on it so there shouldn't be any other reason for it.
banjo
19-07-2003, 03:02 PM
I think it might be because the oil lubricates the turbo bearings also which run at a high temp and discolours the oil quickly.
Roadrunner
19-07-2003, 04:07 PM
I don't know why the oil goes black so quickly in the VR-4. It didn't do so on my Legacy RS-B which was twin-turbo'd too. Both dealers use Shell Helix Ultra so it's not the oil, it must be something peculiar to the VR-4 engine.
LOMY, the Service Check List intervals specifically mention changing the oil every 4.5k miles on turbocharged vehicles so you could INSERT INTO post VALUES (should?) ask your dealer to check.
Brian
haydar
19-07-2003, 05:52 PM
What might be a really good idea is for VR4 members to get quotes for the different service intervals from the dealers and post these to the forum. That way we'll all know which dealers are giving the best price for a service and what they intend to do during that service. It could also be used to knock down the local dealer to match the best price.
When I used to get my car serviced from Ralliart UK in Dudley, they changed all the fluids INSERT INTO post VALUES (diff / gearbox / AYC) but I can't remember what I used to pay?? Was a lot though!!! :INSERT INTO post VALUES (
Not being satisfied with the service I received INSERT INTO post VALUES (plus the fact they were over 100 miles away) I started changing the oil and filters by myself. I do this quite regularly, every 3000 miles or so. It's very easy and straight forward and hardly takes 15 minutes to do. I also know exactly what oil is going into the car!
There is a gearbox specialist near me to whom Mitsubishi send all their gearbox related problems to and I'll find out from them exactly what is involved in changing the AYC oil and can it be a DIY job?
Spirit
19-07-2003, 06:13 PM
I seriously doubt the AYC fluid is a DIY job. Firstly I think i takes up to 3 people to do it - one under the bonnet, one in the car and one in the boot - but don't quote me. And then there is the setting back up after. Again this may not be exact just what my dealer told me when mine was done.
Pete
What might be a really good idea is for VR4 members to get quotes for the different service intervals from the dealers and post these to the forum. That way we'll all know which dealers are giving the best price for a service and what they intend to do during that service. It could also be used to knock down the local dealer to match the best price.
Good idea Haydar, I spoke to my local dealer and told him about a quote i got from another nearby dealer and he swore that whatever they charged he would better it. In fact he has just started selling EVOs and had his staff recently trained by Ralliart so is keen to drum up new performance mitsu related business. Its possible that the north western owners amongst us could arrange a group service contract at reduced rates. He seems to be open to negociation.
LOMY, the Service Check List intervals specifically mention changing the oil every 4.5k miles on turbocharged vehicles so you could INSERT INTO post VALUES (should?) ask your dealer to check.
You're right H7, i'm on it. I suppose it could well be the fact that the turbos also use the engine oil that makes it go black. Maybe the Subaru cools its turbos via a seperate system ?
calum
20-07-2003, 04:48 PM
The oil filter I am using this time is part number MD322508 @ 6.98 + VAT each. This is different than the last one I used, which was the GTO one. It was a bit bigger, but was also twice the price.
The sump plug washer is part number MD050317. Don't know what the sump plug number is, but unless it's rounded off you won't need to change it.
My oil goes black much faster on the vr-4 too than it does on my celica gt-4.
I use silkolene pro-r 15w50 oil for which I pay about £30 a can. This is a bit thicker than the normal oil recommended, but if it's good enough for the rally and drag racing teams it's good enough for me.
Calum
http://www.silkoleneoil.com/raceprod.htm
Cheers for the info Calum . Just what i needed.:thumb:
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