Questions with replacing rear diff

[SEAN-NZ]

My mate managed to blew his diff on his legnum vr4, so i am replacing it for him, been easy enough so far, got a diff out of another car and have the stuffed diff out of his car, now i have a few questions before putting the new diff in, firstly what i think is a seal has been damaged on the new diff, but the one on the blown one appears to be mint, as shown in photos, Do i actually need to replace it? If so, can i put the good one into the new diff?
6885568856

Next questions are regarding filling and bleeding, i have tried to search the forum with little luck, i did find a thread on bleeding the diff, http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?23199-I-bled-my-own-AYC-rear-diff.&highlight=bled+ayc has anyone else done this? with what results? as i dont have the proper cable and program to do it, where do i put the oils? might sound a bit dim, but i cant really see the right markings on the diff, as far as i know, its severe gear oil and atf in diff, and atf into reservoir for pump?

Last question i hope, these diffs look a bit different, the tops appear different and the drain bolts are different, this is what the top of the stuffed diff looks like, accept not as clean hahahttp://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/mitsubishi/diffs-axles/auction-748821821.htm\,
stuffed diff
68857
new diff
68858 looks as wet as it does because some oil drained out of the side of the diff overnight

[Gly]

good luck getting the seal out with out damaging it, buy a new one from mitsi, round $15 worth,

no i do electronic bleeding when i had ayc, personally i would not run the car up on jack stands,
ayc.... F that weak ass crap, LSD much stronger.

the stuffed diff looks like a evo item, pull out the crown wheel and count the teeth if you really need to know.

[SEAN-NZ]

Dam about the electronic bleeding, $80 for a diff from pick a part vs well over a grand for LSD, wasnt my decision, but he knew about the costs and decided on replacement ayc, i don't really need to know but i may pull the diff apart just because I like seeing things first hand haha, might be missing a few teeth, can see bits of metal sitting on the drain hole

[SEAN-NZ]

Il call mitsi on Monday, do you know how hard they are to put in?

[Davezj]

it does not help that you take the pictures form completely different angles when you are taking picture to compare like for like.

i was under the impression that evo's with AYC had the same diff as the VR4 AYC, i am not talking about SAYC just the AYC, is this not the case.
i thought it was exactly the same. i didn't think there was any difference in mounting holes/spacers, drain holes, fill holes, etc. but i could very well be wrong.

[SEAN-NZ]

Yeah I know the pictures weren't the best, I didn't think they where any different, I didn't even know the diff wasnt the original

[Badger_01]

Put an open diff in like I did, then no need for pissing around with the syc stuff lol

[SEAN-NZ]

Maybe if it was my decision, but it's my mates car

[elnevio]

If it's an Evo diff, then I believe it may need the 10mm spacers for the two main mounting bolts. Not sure if it needs matching driveshafts, possibly not.

The drain and fill points should be marked up on the diff as 'AYC' and 'OIL' (the latter may be 'GEAR', but pretty sure it's OIL), especially easy to find with the diffs out of the car!

[TAR]

the levels for both the gear oil and the atf are as much as you can get into it (whilst its mounted correctly in the car. The fill hole acts as the level so when the oil overspills out of it, its at the correct level. Take some time to fill them as they can spit the oil back out if you try to fill too quickly.

I have always bled the AYC using compressed air to suck the fluid through from the reseviour, its always worked for me.

:happy:

[SEAN-NZ]

Sweet, so the same deal as transfer case and gearbox when filling, thanks for the help guys

[elnevio]

Sweet, so the same deal as transfer case and gearbox when filling, thanks for the help guys

Yes, for a manual gearbox - don't try to fill up an auto until it keeps dribbling out! :D :skull:

[SEAN-NZ]

Haha, yeah true

[Davezj]

I had never thought of using a compressor driven brake bleeding vacuum generator to do the AYC bleed before, that is a good tip.
I always use a vacuum brake bleeder to collect the ATF as it comes out of the nipple but I never used it to suck the ATF out.
Now I have two ways to bleed the AYC.

Great info have some rep.

[SEAN-NZ]

ran into an issue today (no i still havent finished the job, been slack), both the inner cv boots need replacing, which would be fine, but as i was moving the joint around after getting the boot loose, it wasnt smooth, felt kind of like something was stuck in there (like while trying to turn his stuffed diff, that had visible shards when looking in drain hole), i am thinking it may need a replacement, but is there any chance that its fine? its on both rear shafts, ones worse than the other.

[Gly]

take them apart and have a proper look not hard to pull the boot off and remove the old grease, easy to see if they are buggered or not,

[SEAN-NZ]

ok, il have a look tomorrow, have boots semi off, to bad the joint wont actually come apart, would wear/metal flakes be pretty obvious?

[Gly]

yep should be pretty easy to see,

if they arnt running smooth theres a good chance there less than perfect,

im assuming the boot has ripped? if water has got in and you have caught it early enough my just be a case of re-greasing them

[SEAN-NZ]

one is split, not majorly, the other looks like it is about to split, i cant remember which one was harder to move

[SEAN-NZ]

Well I'm almost done, only thing to do is full oils and put exhaust back on, but I have a stupid question, the fill holes, I don't know what is gear oil and what is ATF, I can see 2 bolts that I assume are for filling, one on the left kind of bottom (when looking from behind), and one in the middle up high that required going through subframe to get to, pics attached http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/15/ebygabes.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/15/edy5u7up.jpg

[TAR]

top one accessed through subframe hole is the ATF clutch pack fill bolt.

see here for some pictures http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?3851-Txfer-box-Diff-amp-AYC-Oil-change&p=70536&viewfull=1#post70536

:happy:

[SEAN-NZ]

Awesome, thanks, apparently I don't have permission to view that thread, so top through subframe is ATF and one to the lower left is gear oil?

[TAR]

69353

yes thats correct.

You are not a member so do not have access to the club resources.

[SEAN-NZ]

I should be lol, getting there on the diff though, had diff in, drive shafts in, suspension back together, the rounded off ayc fill bolt :( had to take diff back out, bolt was so screwed that we could smash a 16mm bolt onto it to get it off, but it's back in now, part way through filling

[SEAN-NZ]

Little update, diff is finally in the car, diff fluids in, was wandering if the car can be driven with an unbled ayc pump if I pull the fuse? And wandering exactly what one it is, I'm guessing it's 60 amp one with the symbol being turning wheels and an m?

[SEAN-NZ]

Can anyone confirm what I am thinking?

[pbaron]

Can't remember which fuse but my wife's legnum has been driven for the past couple of years with the ayc unbled and fuse pulled waiting for me to get around to it, still going strong.

Little update, diff is finally in the car, diff fluids in, was wandering if the car can be driven with an unbled ayc pump if I pull the fuse? And wandering exactly what one it is, I'm guessing it's 60 amp one with the symbol being turning wheels and an m?

[SEAN-NZ]

Sweet, sounds good just need to figure out the fuse now

[Badger_01]

Here you go http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?46787-VR4-Fuse-Blocks-Cabin-amp-Engine-Bay&highlight=fuses

[SEAN-NZ]

Thanks, do I need to pull I'm cabin and engine bay fuse? Or will engine bay do?

[wintertidenz]

Engine bay fuse will disable it completely.

[SEAN-NZ]

Awesome, thanks