Advice please

[Lexis]

One of belts start squeak engine started overheating and it's blowing cold air inside. Any ideas?

[Davezj]

check to if cooling syatyem is full of fluid?
do you have leak on the cooling system?
what do you mean the engine overheats?
is this at idle or on the move?
does the temp gauge go high, or is jst the rad seems hotter than normal to the touch?

more info required help make a diagnosis over the internet, you have to remeber we only know what you tell us, if there is something obvious that is obviose to you and you don't tell us we will not know this.
try putting a bit more detail onto it and we might have a fighting chance of helping you.

just want to make sure we get the full picture before trying to help.

[Lexis]

It was missing about half liter of antifreeze. On drive it start overheat at least that what shows gauge in the dash when I stop or put neutral on temperature goes down to normal on gauge. Heater only blows cold air. And squeek from one of the belts not sure where kits to dark to see anything at the moment

[mcosworth]

These belts you've mentioned are not related with cooling system except cam belt one. These are only auxilary belts and are used to drive alternator, A/C and power steering and they can make some squeeks when are old and worn.

[Lexis]

What about water pump? Could it be faulty cause seeking sounds is continuing like it's just going on.

[Nick Mann]

If the squeaking is your water pump then stop driving now. The vcam belt drives the water pump, if the water pump damages the belt then you have a*dead*engine.
Where did you add the antifreeze?

[Lexis]

Expansion tank mate. I'm not sure if it coming from pump just assumed cause of overheating engine gauge belt squeaking and cold air from heater. It all happened at the same time. Car is parked. First and cheapest idea was thermostat but didn't helped next one is water pump ordered will get it by Monday or so bout the belt not sure what I need don't gave part nmbr if any have it please write it in here. Another thing it could be pulleys but low percentage on it. Any more ideas?

[Davezj]

It was missing about half liter of antifreeze. On drive it start overheat at least that what shows gauge in the dash when I stop or put neutral on temperature goes down to normal on gauge. Heater only blows cold air. And squeek from one of the belts not sure where kits to dark to see anything at the moment

as nick says if you suspect the water pump has failed and it is not pumping coolant round the the engine then running the engine for any length of time would be bad.
the only way i can think of without removing the cambelt coversand plastic panels to see the water pump itself, is to take the rad cap off and start the car let it idle and look into the rad to see when the coolant water starts to flow through the rad, this occur when the thermostat opens. if no water flows into the rad then the water pump could not be working or the therostat could be stuck shut.

this is another thing that can cause a cooling system to overheat a failed thermostat. to check it you need to remove the thermostat and put it in a pan of boiling water on the cooker you will see it open and when you remove it from the hot water you will see it close if it does not open and close then replace it.

when you say the gauge shows over heat what does it do, does it go up to max, the normal postion should be about half way.
do you have evoscan to monitor the engine perameters so you can verify the engine temp does actually go up and it is not just a fault temp dash sensor, the ecu temp sensor is separate to the dash temp sensor.

to test the heater issue you can remove the the air box and MAF and still start the car and leave it at idle, this will allow you to get you hands on the pipes going to the heater matrix through the engine bay bulk head, if the pipes are hot then this will tell you the heater matrix is ok and it is something to do with the flaps that guide the air in the heating system inside the car which are not working.
if the pipes are cold then it will be something else, not sure what it would be, but maybe a blockage in the cooling system or a faulty water pump not pumping water round the system.
does the radiator get hot?
do the radiator fans come on when the temp goes up?
you can force the Radiator fans to come on by setting the heater temp to 17 deg C and turning the A/C on, this will force the fans to switch on when the A/C pump clutch is engauged, which will be most of the time. if the engine temp remains normal when when the air con is on then it could be a temp sensor issue.

do you have any coolant leaks?

these question are in a bit of a random order but each question answered should bring you to a final conclusion as to what is worng.

[Davezj]

Expansion tank mate. I'm not sure if it coming from pump just assumed cause of overheating engine gauge belt squeaking and cold air from heater. It all happened at the same time. Car is parked. First and cheapest idea was thermostat but didn't helped next one is water pump ordered will get it by Monday or so bout the belt not sure what I need don't gave part nmbr if any have it please write it in here. Another thing it could be pulleys but low percentage on it. Any more ideas?

do you realise that the cam belt has to come off to replace the water pump.

[Lexis]

Yes I know that I will need to remove and check condition of cam belt on water pump removals the gauge the thing is it keeps in the middle like normal on neutral or parking gears but when I drive it going bit by bit to red side more I drive more it going up hitting red line. Radiator fans was on. Not sure if radiator gets hot.. Didn't touched it. Car in garage at the moment so I will check if water flows to radiator and a/c tmr. No visual coolant leeks but i putted half litre of antifreeze yesterday to expansion tank so that means some was missing. My idea what's happened water pump r faulty and not circulating antifreeze thru all the system properly could it be? Not thermostat. Swapped yesterday checked before fitting works fine.

[Subaru ETA]

No point in checking cambelt condition - just replace it!

[Davezj]

I am with david above, just change the cam belt, and two pulleys, tensioner Can be checked and if still functioning within specs then no need to replace that.

[Davezj]

It does sound like you are not getting correct coolant flow round the engine. But verify the temp with evoscan.
As a faulty £3 dash temp sensor could be the reason for gauge going high.
How did you bleed the cooling system when you changed the thermostat?
What colour was the coolant, before you topped it back up.
If you have a cooling issue and coolant gets hot it will vent it out through the expansion tank. To check the level of the coolant you need to do it through the radiator cap. Just because the expansion tank has coolant in it does not mean the radiator is full, you must check the level in the rad.
I have had a failed rad cap in the past, which did not hold any pressure and allowed the coolant to boil which forced about 3L of coolant out of the expansion tank by the time a came to a stop no visible leaks, the expansion tank had coolant in it. The radiator did not have any coolant in it. Once the car cooled down the expansion tank was drained back into the radiator. But the rad was still empty, I know it is an obvious think to check but worth mentioning.

[Nick Mann]

Was the radiator full when the expansion tank was low? If so you don't have a coolant level issue that would cause overheating.

[Lexis]

Today I was checking coolant flow and sudden there was scraping sound from belts section, I turned of the engine, in what I know that sound should be from pump. So I will wait till I get it with belt set. There was green antifreeze condition of it normal. I beed system thru screw near thermostat. I will change rad cap too found one 1.3 bar ant thermometer on it can be handy. BTW does anyone knows where I can get belt and tensioners cheaper than 95£?

[Davezj]

i doubt you will get the tensioner included for £95, you can probably find the cam belt, 2 x aux belts and the ensioner pulley and idle pulley for £95. the tensioner on its own for a new one is normally about £100.

i would normally get mine from camskill, £86.50 plus delivery which is a pretty good price for all of that.
http://www.camskill.co.uk/m22b0s1398p63506/MITSUBISHI_LEGNUM_GALANT_VR4_%28EC5W_EC5A%29_-_SERVICING_PARTS_TUNING_SPARES_and_SERVICE_ACCESSO RIES_-_Cambelt_Kit_INCL_Centre_Idler_-_Mitsubsihi_Legnum_VR4_EC5W_and_Galant_VR4_EC5A

water pump £32.99
http://www.camskill.co.uk/m22b0s1394p5562/MITSUBISHI_LEGNUM_GALANT_VR4_%28EC5W_EC5A%29_-_SERVICING_PARTS_TUNING_SPARES_and_SERVICE_ACCESSO RIES_-_Water_Pump_-_Mitsubishi_Legnum_VR4_EC5W_and_Galant_VR4_EC5A

tensioner if you need it, they are on offer £69.49
http://www.camskill.co.uk/m22b0s1398p6901/Camskill_Products_-_Hydraulic_Tensioner_-_Cambelt_-_Legnum_Galant_2_5_V6_EC5A_and_EC5W

deliver to UK on the cambelt kit and water pump would be £6.95

total without tensioner is £126.44
which isn't that bad when you think what you are getting for it.

you might want to think about doing the crack oil seal as well, just because you can as everything will be off to do the cam belt.

you might even be able get a discount on that price as well if you are a paid up member. but i am not 100% sure if they still do the discount.

[Subaru ETA]

Be careful with after market parts. I have had an aftermarket waterpump and a tensioner fail on 2 different cars.
A friend has also had an aftermarket pump fail.
I know in New Zealand, some bits are actually cheaper genuine

[Lexis]

Most of the time I'm selecting by Brand when I was looking for pump I found just one so not sure bout it but will see. Could you lads give me roughfull step be step guide like what to take off first and so on. That would make my life easier :)

[Davezj]

there is a full cambelt change guide in the library which is accessible with paid membership.

[Lexis]

Cheers for all of the info I think I will finish today :)

[Davezj]

It sounds like you are doing the cambelt swap, if just be careful when tensioning the belt, there is a quite specific way to do it according to the mitsi manuals