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Louis
02-12-2014, 12:30 AM
Hi,
Has anyone changed a steering rack?
What is the best way to remove the rack and re fit?

Is dropping the rear of the front subframe the best way???.

any advice appreciated, cheers Louis

Nick Mann
02-12-2014, 02:34 PM
It's been a while since I did one, and that was with the gearbox out. I'm not sure of the best way tbh but I do remember that some of the bolts were awkward even with the gearbox out!

Davezj
02-12-2014, 06:14 PM
I changed mine a few years ago and I took it out with engine and gear box still in place it came out through the drivers wheel arch. Bit I had to slacken off the front subframe to make the room to get it out.
The worst bit for me was getting the pipes off the rack and back on.
Don't forget you have to remove the bolt completely from the bottom of the steering column the UJ will not come off the rack if you don't.

TAR
02-12-2014, 11:53 PM
I did one a few years back without removing the engine or gearbox.

It was an absolute nightmare as there are some bolts on top of the rack which are just about impossible to get at for both removal and refitting. It can be done but its a tight fit through the wheel arch.

I cant remember what was removed to aid removal/fitting but it was a long job even with a 4 post lift.

Good luck.
:happy:

Louis
03-12-2014, 01:38 AM
Ta to all for info, and ta to Peter for additional info.
I will update all when I have it changed.
(Tools, bandages, swear box, check )
:)

Louis
05-12-2014, 12:20 AM
Hi All,
Well courier arrived st 11am, and two of us started rack removal at 1pm. wheels back on ground and out for a test drive at 4:45.

It was a huge pain in the ass and should be avoided if at all possible, but it is possible without removing too much else, a brief re cap of how i did it below.

Jack up front.
support on axle stands under chassis.
two wheels off
remove track rod ends from hub carrier.
remove track rod ends from track rods.
remove rubber boots.
remove track rods from rack.
From drivers footwell:
remove column to rack bolt.
remove 4 bolts from footwell gaitor.
from drivers side arch:
remove two power steering pipes 1 pipe end nut, and 1 spring clip hose (let the fluid drain out, you do not loos a lot).
from underneath at drivers side, remove the two bolts holding the rack to the subframe. the upper bolt is tight behind the downpipes from the rear turbo. (I have large custom downpipes and had to use 4 different types of 17mm spanners and a short socket on a knuckle joint drive. very short 17mm open spanner, regular swan neck 17mm ring spanner, regular open 17mm spanner, angle head 17mm ratchet spanner). I undid these two from below.
from passenger side arch, remove two bolts, U bracket holding this side of the rack to the subframe.
At this point the rack is loose from the car.
From underneath remove subframe bolts and nuts. 1 x bolt and 2 nuts at each side of the car.
the subframe does not drop heavily or by much.
Then used a large pry bar to push subframe down and allow rack to be manoeuvred out through drivers side arch.
quite a bit of twisting and pushing and manoeuvring to get upper pipes under rear engine out and out towards drivers arch. but there is room to do this.

Nothing was removed from the engine bay.
I did not require any access from above the rack for removal, airbox, snorkel etc all stayed in place.
Only accessed from drivers side arch, underneath for rack bracket bolts on drivers side.
passenger side rack bracket bolts were removed by way of passenger arch.
and column bolt and 4 bolts holding the gator in the footwell were removed from drivers footwell.
When subframe bolts are out (put a trolley jack under it when loosening them but once it is loose it will hang there only drops by about 3cm.
It is held up there due to the front side engine mounts each side.
Had to force it down with a pry bar to get enough clearance for rack removal.

I did not remove or loosen exhaust downpipes (although the 4 spanner bolt might have been a little more accessible with downpipes off)
I did not remove the under engine brace the one that goes from front to rear with the roll stopper mount on it, it didn't get in the way.

I would recommend doing this with an accomplice as I did as you kind of have to be in two places at once for a lot of the actual rack jiggling and removal.

Hope this helps others who are attempting this.

:)

Davezj
05-12-2014, 11:28 AM
Cracking write up Louis, if anyone has tackled this job. Everything said above makes perfect sense.
If you are going to tackle this job, it will all become very clear when you start doing it.

TAR
05-12-2014, 02:07 PM
well done Louis, its not a job for the feint hearted.

And thanks for the write-up. I just wanted to forget the pain when I did one!

:happy:

mikebishop
24-11-2016, 08:18 PM
Very helpful thanks for the descripive notes