Fault codes

[madmac]

Can anyone point me in the direction of how to go about reading fault codes in my pre facelift Legnum VR4 please? I have an ABS fault. When I start the car the ABS light stays on for the whole journey and obviously the ABS doesn't work but If i turn the ignition off then on again when on the move the ABS light goes out and the ABS works okay until I next start her again. I hoped to be able to read codes to point me in the right direction of the fault. i suspect it's either rusty ABS rings or a sensor but which i'm unsure. I'd rather not have ABS to be honest but it's needed for the MOT. Thanks in advance

[Davezj]

try the link in this thread.
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?13785-Fault-Codes-Accessing&highlight=access+diag%2A+code%2A

error code listed
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?22930-diagnostic-codes-complete-set&highlight=complete+error+code

[madmac]

Nice one, thanks!

[Pugme]

Hopefully going to do this tonight, so just earth pin 1 and turn on my ignition? I'm sure I've heard of it being done with a paper clip between pins 1 and 4... Is that right?

http://ftowa.com/images/workshopart07_3.jpg

And if that's pin 1,pin 4 is to the left in that picture. So I see pin1,black dot, black dot, pin4?

[Nick Mann]

Yes. Pin 1 to 4 does the trick.

[Pugme]

OK so I think I got 13 and a 25 on the eml light, I've looked at the list and I'm still none the wiser lol

I got an 82 on my ayc light

61 on the tcl

22 and a 52 on the Skidby car


Can anyone shed me some light!!

[Davezj]

please bear in mind that these error codes are stored for ever even if they only occur once. the only way to know if they are current errors is to disconnect the battery to clear all the stored error code and then go for drive and see if the come back when you read the codes the next time.

13 inhalation warm sensor systematic 13A- 11 (means inlet air sensor in MAF)
25 atmospheric pressure sensor systematic 13A- 17 (means atmospheric pressure sensor in MAF)
if you disconnect the MAF while engine running these 2 error codes will be stored, and possibly 12 as well. but make sore the MAF is full plugged in untill you hear the click into place.

82 electromotive pump breakdown 27− 28 (means ayc pump pressure fail)


61 Channel of A/T-ECU (means coms fail between AutoBox ECU and TCL ecu)
if an ecu is disconnected while the battery was still connected this error can be flagged up as there is continous communication between ecu's.

22 FL wheel fast sensor systematic (means Front Left ABS snsor)
52 valve relay system (OFF breakdown) 35E− 12 (means abs relay activation i think, maybe the relay is not getting any volage and is switched OFF as it is the OFF error and not the ON error which is 51, but not sure.)
the ASC and TCL system use the abs wheel sensors to determin wheel traction/spin and moves power to and from the wheels accordingly.

i know this is not that helpful but it is a start.
i would disconnect the battery to start with and then read them again to see which of the codes are still current.

[Pugme]

Nah that's kinda helpful... I thought it was front left abs sensor, so I'll get a new hub and hopefully sort some of the problems

The ayc, pressure fail is good news, I have malcs switch and I think I read somewhere it's adjustable and this could explain why it worked once and not again :-)

[Davezj]

i would not jump in on the replace the sensor as they are pretty reliable. i think the error code could just be a old code, from maybe a dirty sensor that is now working OK.
this is why i say do the battery disconnect and check the codes again.

if the code comes back with a few other that are related to a failed sensor then maybe think about replacing it then.
or even reset the codes and actually unplug the sensor from under the front wheel arch and read the codes, to see if you get the same codes, if you do then it probably show it is that sensor but is not then the sensor is probably OK and it is one of the other parts that uses the sensor to determine an outcome and it s getting it wrong for some reason and blaming the sensor for the fail.

[Pugme]

I lost abs and gained 3 dash lights when I did the hub swap for the brembos, I can get a new hub for £50 so might be the easiest option although I will check the wiring etc, unplug and check codes again.

Do you k ow how to adjust malcs switch? I'd love to achieve at least one actual fix :-)

Just a thought, if I didn't manage to bleed my ayc system properly that could have caused the lack of fluid pressure?

[Davezj]

I lost abs and gained 3 dash lights when I did the hub swap for the brembos, I can get a new hub for £50 so might be the easiest option although I will check the wiring etc, unplug and check codes again.

Do you k ow how to adjust malcs switch? I'd love to achieve at least one actual fix :-)

Just a thought, if I didn't manage to bleed my ayc system properly that could have caused the lack of fluid pressure?

Malc's switch comes pre set to about 9 bar, which if the pump can hold that pressure with out the Red AYC light coming on then that is still a good pressure.
this is how the switch works but I not 100% sure of the actual pressure values I am quoting.
If you are unsure of what the pressure is set to or you have adjusted the screw yourself, you can turn the screw full clockwise and that is max pressure set about 12bar, then turn the screw 1 full turn anti clockwise to reduce the pressure be 1 bar and every full turn anti clockwise after that reduces the switch trigger point down by 1 bar so 3 turn anti clockwise will bring you back to the 9 bar position. this is roughly right.
I set mine by reducing the AYC trigger point until the Red AYC light on the dash switched off, and my pressure ended up about 5 or 6 Bar by the method mentioned above.

when you refit the box that contains the AYC pump just put the screws in partially so you can still get to the screw in the pressure switch, go for a drive, if the red light is still on, jack up the car, put on axle stands, get under car, adjust switch, take it off axle stands, go for a drive, check Red ayc light, and repeat until you find the switch off point of the red AYC light.

now I am not saying you can just keep on reducing the pressure and all will be OK, my AYC still works at 5 or 6 Bar pressure as I can feel it working. but as the pressure reduces past the about 6-7 Bar mark I think the effectiveness of the torque transfer is reduced. so although you are still getting the AYC effect it is not as good as could be if you had 8 Bar pressure.
if you get what I mean on that subject.

as for the other question about air in the AYC pump system then yes this can cause the pressure not to build up correctly, as air is compressable and AYC fluid is not. just like getting air in the braking system the peddle can feel spongy and they don't bite as had. air in the AYC pump system will cause the clutch packs in the diff to be spongy and not bite as hard because the pump can't generate the pressure.
So I would bleed the AYC pump system again with evoscan as it is very easy to do that way with zero mess as long as you are carefull. the most important thing to remember when bleeding nthe ayc pump is do not let the reservoir in the boot run dry if it does then you will have to fill the reservoir up and start the bleed process again.

it is quite easy to let the reservoir run dry if you are not paying attention, I work on 2 evoscsan activation of the bleed cycle and top the reservoir up, you can't go to far wrong using this method.

[Davezj]

malc did a guide to setting the adjustable pressure switches so a search for that would probably help to get the exact numbers.

and I have done a write up somewhere on how to do the evoscan bleed process.

bleed process is in this thread.
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?64875-EvoScan-AYC-actuators&highlight=evoscan+ayc+bleed

[Pugme]

Absolute legend. I'll purchase myself a copy of evoscan as my friend has an omdb thingy mabob lead :-)

[Davezj]

Oh forgot to say you either need a USB extension cable for the op2.0 cable about 3m so you can operate the laptop from under the car or get a mate to sit in the front of the car and operate the actuators while you do the nipple bleeding under the car.

[Pugme]

OK did some fettling fixed my ayc. But still no speedo but

Fault codes, skiddy car 22, abs 22 and tlc 61, my engine management light is flashing fast Constant and so is my ayc light.

I think it'll be easier to just swap the hub, this was after leaving the battery off for 20 mins then going for a spin