Rear Suspension Link Arm

[giblet]

Need a pair of rear suspension link arms. Is OEM the suggested route or are third party arms available?

72731

I think that's the right part, it's the arm that the droplink bolts on to

[peter thomson]

Oem ,haven't seen aftermarket arms. That isn't a vr4 rear suspension picture

[giblet]

Oem ,haven't seen aftermarket arms. That isn't a vr4 rear suspension picture

Cheers. The picture was taken from the Camskill listing - http://www.camskill.co.uk/m22b0s1403p85152/MITSUBISHI_OE_GENUINE_PARTS_SERVICING_PARTS_TUNING _SPARES_and_SERVICE_ACCESSORIES_-_Rear_Suspension_Link_Arm_Mitsubishi_Legnum_VR4_an d_Galant_VR4

[giblet]

Can anyone confirm that the part in the camskill link is the correct one?

[adaxo]

Is this what you looking for?
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?61647-Rear-suspension-arm

[Davezj]

[UOTE=giblet;802210]Can anyone confirm that the part in the camskill link is the correct one?[/QUOTE]

The suspension setup in the picture is not VR4 rear suspension.

[Louis]

I got a pair on ebay last year, bout 10 months ago, they are still good.
Be Aware, they are mounted by a concentric bolt on the inner bush, if you don't line them up properly you will move the toe in and wear out tyres.
When I changed mine, I scribed the bolts and washers and nuts etc, but when I put it all together I wasn't 100% whether I had it right, so went for a 4 wheel alignment set up and one of them was out quite a bit!,
bear in mind that you will prob need to get them adjusted by someone with 4 wheel alignment kit :)

[giblet]

Is this what you looking for?
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?61647-Rear-suspension-arm

If that's the straight arm that the drop link also bolts on to then yes. Sorry it's been a long day and I'm suffering from a lack of sleep. Just want to order the right part and go to bed!


[UOTE=giblet;802210]Can anyone confirm that the part in the camskill link is the correct one?

The suspension setup in the picture is not VR4 rear suspension.[/QUOTE]

Ruddy Camskill.


I got a pair on ebay last year, bout 10 months ago, they are still good.
Be Aware, they are mounted by a concentric bolt on the inner bush, if you don't line them up properly you will move the toe in and wear out tyres.
When I changed mine, I scribed the bolts and washers and nuts etc, but when I put it all together I wasn't 100% whether I had it right, so went for a 4 wheel alignment set up and one of them was out quite a bit!,
bear in mind that you will prob need to get them adjusted by someone with 4 wheel alignment kit :)

Will be getting a full alignment done afterwards. Cheers

[giblet]

P.s. The aftermath of hooning in the dales

72736

[adaxo]

Arm posted by me is not that on picture above, is that from yours vr4?

[Louis]

If it's the arm with the drop link attached then it's not the concentric bolt arm, it is the other one, part number on image below, camskill should be able to get you that I would think, other wise, ebay.
:)

[giblet]

Arm posted by me is not that on picture above, is that from yours vr4?

Yup the image is the arm on my VR4, looks like it took a beating on my recent drive.


If it's the arm with the drop link attached then it's not the concentric bolt arm, it is the other one, part number on image below, camskill should be able to get you that I would think, other wise, ebay.
:)

Cheers. I'll give them a call.

[Davezj]

this arm is a bit of a pig to remove.
if the rear subframe stays in place i believe the fuel tank has to be dropped/moved out of the way to get the bolt out as it is very long.
the other option is to drop the subframe down so the bolt clears the tank.

i am not sure why mitsi did this it is a crazy situation.

[giblet]

this arm is a bit of a pig to remove.
if the rear subframe stays in place i believe the fuel tank has to be dropped/moved out of the way to get the bolt out as it is very long.
the other option is to drop the subframe down so the bolt clears the tank.

i am not sure why mitsi did this it is a crazy situation.

For petes sake! It's never simple for me. Bah

[peter thomson]

You can repair that arm. I've had to do that on both arms due to the Selby bars being so much stiffer than the standard anti roll bars

[Davezj]

For petes sake! It's never simple for me. Bah

It will probably be possible to drop the sub frame down on one side to remove the bolt without having to remove anything else.
But I ism not 100% sure. I have only ever removed this arm when breaking a car so the sub frame was off the car already.
I have tried to remove it when I did a rear end rust removal on my old black vr4 and gave up as the bolt hit the petrol tank when I tried to remove it, but I was much less experienced with taking bits off vr4 then.

The only time I have ever see this bracket fail on the rear arm was with an upgraded anti roll bar much stiffer bar and puts more force on the little bracket. If you have stiffer anti roll bar, then it is likely this will happen again. The bracket on the arm needs to be beefed up a bit to resist the extra load going through it. The original bracket is not very strong looking anyway.
If you have standard anti roll bar then the bracket must be rust away with time.

Might have to take a look at mine to see what state they are in and if needed weld on a stronger bracket, before give up as well.

Beat me to it pete.

[giblet]

I had stiffer anti roll bars fitted just under a year ago so that explains why it's happened.

[Davezj]

i don't think it would be hard to fabricate a bracket and weld it on to a pair of arms.

i have a spare pair of the these arms that i was keeping for me, but if you need them i can clean them up and see if i can make the bracket and weld it on then you can get them fitted and give me your old ones. there is no point in fitting standard arms back on as they will fail in the same way eventually.
you can be my test subject if you want, if i can modify my arms with an extra bracket support then i can make a template of what i use and make a couple more brackets for when i get your arms back and fit those brackets to your arms. the next time i have the rear subframe down in my car i can fit them.

i understand you would need these upgrade arms quite quickly, so i understand if you just want to get it repaired locally, but the offer is there, i think i will do this anyway with my arms, as at some point i will end up getting stiffer anti roll bars as they do help a lot with body roll, particularly on stock suspension.

[Davezj]

I have had a look at my spare arms and the look in good condition and the bracket in its original position looks like it can have a plate welded to it to beef up the strength. I can't as I have ever done it before, but it looks doable.

[giblet]

Thanks for the offer Dave. I may need to find a local garage to repair the current arm unless Adam can have a go during the weekend. If a replacement arm is likely to suffer the same fate then it makes sense to repair the current one.

[Davezj]

i have had a thought about that and i might have jumped to a conclusion to soon.

i have looked at my spare arms again, and the bracket is quite chunky, don't get me wrong it can be beefed up with a welded plate. but i am worndering if your bracket might have just been rusted away. i only say this due to the other issues you have had with rust, it might be an idea to have a good look at bracket to see if there is any areas of bad corrosion. it looks like the bracket has split right through, the bracket with no corrosion on its about 2-3m thick. so it should in all reality it should be strong enough even for the upgraded anti roll bars.

what i am getting at is if the bracket has lots of rust and deep corrosion on it then a standard arm might be OK for you, as it will not be rusted and you can make sure it is clean before you fit it so a quick covering with stone chip paint of something like that should protected the are for the future from road salt and water.

[giblet]

Yup looks like rust was the main cause. Ordering replacement ones today :)

[Davezj]

before you get them fitted make sure you give them a coat of paint, say hammerite or something like that just to give them a bit more of a rust proffing.rather than relying on the basic satin black paint that seem get sprayed on (in the thinest possible coat) most automotive parts.

[giblet]

Didn't get a chance to order them yesterday. Finally got round to having a look on Camskill and its £195.96 per arm. Is that the going rate?

[adaxo]

I don't remember exact quote from about 2 years ago but what I remember they been very dear.

[giblet]

Ffs my wallet keeps taking a battering with this car. Then there is fitting on top. Goddamit!

[Pugme]

£400 a pair....


I would definitely be going for second hand! Lol

[Davezj]

anyone breaking a car will have a pair, it is just about the last thing that gets taken off the car though.
but i would be surprised if anuone wants more than £20 each for them.

[Louis]

try here, they ship from UAE and from Japan, but prices are good.

A new arm is quite substantial, and shouldn't have any probe with uprated roll bars.

[giblet]

try here, they ship from UAE and from Japan, but prices are good.

A new arm is quite substantial, and shouldn't have any probe with uprated roll bars.

Can't see a link.

Sourced a second hand pair for £30. Will clean them up and see if they will benefit from some extra support at the droplink bit.

[Davezj]

Can't see a link.

Sourced a second hand pair for £30. Will clean them up and see if they will benefit from some extra support at the droplink bit.

As long as they are not routed out on the bracket it should be fine. When I checked my spares the metal was about 3 mm thick which should be plants thick enough to handle the up rated ARB.
Give them a wire brush and a good clean the so rust protection and paint and they should last the rest of the lifetime of the car.
If you do get an extra plate welded in I would fit it inside the plate that is already there, and just put a few tack welds round the edge. You will see what I mean when you look at the arm in your hand.

[giblet]

As long as they are not routed out on the bracket it should be fine. When I checked my spares the metal was about 3 mm thick which should be plants thick enough to handle the up rated ARB.
Give them a wire brush and a good clean the so rust protection and paint and they should last the rest of the lifetime of the car.
If you do get an extra plate welded in I would fit it inside the plate that is already there, and just put a few tack welds round the edge. You will see what I mean when you look at the arm in your hand.

Cheers Dave. Will be stripping away as much of the surface rust as I can before using a rust converter and then treating it to protect it.

[Louis]

oops!

http://www.epc-data.com

https://www.amayama.com/en/search?currency=826&q=MR215372

[peter thomson]

If you don't uprate those arms they will fail ,far easier to do that now than later when on the car.

[adaxo]

I run cusco arb for about 2-3 years and like cornering hard and they still in one piece. tbh issues with splitting rear arms pull me off installing shelby arb's.