Auto going into limp

[carfanatic]

Box goes into limp when driving hard. Stop, switch off ignition, turn on again and its ok for a while. Any ideas? i don't know how to get codes. Nick Mann

[elnevio]

Worn fluid not staying in spec when hot?

[carfanatic]

Hi Nev,
The fluid was changed about 15 months ago (3500mls). would it need changing so soon? Col

[peter thomson]

Have a look at the loom where it kinks down to the box. It can ware there and cause intermittent faults

[MarkSanne]

Reading error codes is a simple job, connect pins 1 and 4 in the OBD plug, details and picture shown here:
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?70422-Troubleshooting-amp-solutions-with-perf-issues-stutter-shudder-idling-stalling

[Davezj]

Hi Nev,
The fluid was changed about 15 months ago (3500mls). would it need changing so soon? Col

An auto box fluid change should last 60K miles or more as long as it has been done correctly using the correct fluids.

What fluid was used when the auto box was done?
How was the fluid changed?
A full flush or just half a job by draining the auto sump and just refilling.
You can tell how they changed the fluid by how much fluid you were charged for, 5L or 10L, the invoice should say what fluid was used as well.

[carfanatic]

Davezj nick mann did the change so I have no concerns about the fluid or work. However, MarkSanne I will try to check the codes, I do Leather not technical. peterthompson, i will take a look at the loom as much as I can. Thank you all for the advise, I'll keep you posted. Col.

[Davezj]

Wow, that is a concise reply to all concerned wish I could that.........

Woffle woffle

A bit more chat.....

Back to the point, lol.


With respect to gear box yes nick would have done it correctly, so there should be no issue with fluids.

Have you changed the radiator resently, May be fitted a manual rad with no built in cooler and just looped the pipes back to themselves and not got round to fitting external cooler.
Just a thought!

[Nick Mann]

It's possible that the level is slightly low, so it can overheat too easily or run out of oil in the sump when working hard. It's been a while now since we changed the fluid so a slow leak could be the cause. Maybe a torque converter seal?

Codes is a very good starting place as Mark said, and as Peter mentioned a visual check of the loom to the connectors on the top of the box is a good idea too. One poor connection to a shaft speed sensor will give you limp mode too.

[carfanatic]

I'm truly impressed with the knowledge you guys have. Also. I now know what an OBD is. /googleit Davezj I can't afford to waffle, I teach 16 - 24 yr olds, it confuses them.

[carfanatic]

well guys I have used the old paper clip malarkey and followed ( I think ) the destructions given. No flashing at all, assumed to mean no error codes. Help.

[Nick Mann]

If you got the procedure right there would be flashing. If there are no codes then all the flashing is at constant rates.

[carfanatic]

What a palava, I realised that maybe the open door may make a difference, it did. So I am in the process of uploading a short video (32Seconds) hopefully you can tell what the codes are from this. I'm blowed if I can. LOL.

[carfanatic]

ok guys. My interpretation is code 41. Let me know what the truth is even though it may hurt,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYS2pzTf4KQ&feature=youtu.be

[Humpty's Revenge]

ok guys. My interpretation is code 41. Let me know what the truth is even though it may hurt,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYS2pzTf4KQ&feature=youtu.be

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?22930-diagnostic-codes-complete-set&highlight=diagnostic%20code%20full%20list

[Humpty's Revenge]

ok guys. My interpretation is code 41. Let me know what the truth is even though it may hurt,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYS2pzTf4KQ&feature=youtu.be

Looks like its blinking code 24 = speed sensor?

[carfanatic]

Thanks Steve, anyone got one going spare?

[Davezj]

engine code 24 if you do a speed limit removal by cutting the ecu wire then code 24 will be flashed up if i remember rightly. if speed wire not cut then it is as steve pointed out a speed sensor

ABS code 21 front right wheel sensor issue.

autobox codes 23 and 51 visible in the video but there could be more codes as they will repeat until you remove the shorting link. code
23 output axis speed sensor systematic short circuit/broken wire 23- 16
51 Engine ECU Communication abnormal (TCL non equipped car) ASC-ECU (TCL control section) communication abnormal (TCL equipped car) 23-25

AYC code 82 ayc pump pressure fail


the video needs to be longer to verify the codes repeat.

long flash means 10's short flash units so 2 long flash and one short flash is code 21 you can see this on the ABS flashing.
to get the codes correctly disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes the reconnect then drive the car until the limp mode occurs then read the codes.
if you have not cleared the code recently these codes could be years old.
the code a stored for even until you clear them be disconnecting the battery.

[Davezj]

one thing i will point out that i found recently is the ABS code do not seem to get removed when you disconnect the battery.
i was trying to activate the abs valve by the actators in evoscan and the actuator would not work, i had error code showing so i deleted the error codes in evoscan and the actator worked after this.

i had to select the ABS ecu in evoscan and delete the code from there. then i was able to use the actuators for the abs valves and you can hear the abs pump run for each of the abs valves.
and when i did the flashy dash the abs codes were gone.

i triggered the abs code when i turned on the ignition with the abs sensor disconnected as a tests then tried to delete the code by a battery disconnect and it would not clear the codes, so i had to do the above to remove the codes.

[carfanatic]

Hi Dave,
This all a bit beyond me. You know far to much sh1t, in a good way. I have absolutely no idea how you have determined so many things from that vid. One thing I can confirm is I know about the low pressure in the AYC hence I have bought, but not yet fitted a variable thingy as I not sure which wire goes where. The ABS is probably from yonks ago before I have the Brembos fitted. As for (51 Engine ECU Communication abnormal (TCL non equipped car) ASC-ECU (TCL control section) communication abnormal (TCL equipped car) 23-25) I haven't a clue what you are saying, sorry. thanks just the same, without wishing to sound condescending. Col

[Davezj]

Basically it is saying you don't have TCL which is correct fro a facelift car but there was a communication fail between the ACS ecu and the engine ecu.
so if the engine ecu has been unplugged at any point then communication will have been lost and fault code would have been stored.

so the best thing to do is disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes then reconnect it. go for a dive and check the codes again with shorting link on pin 1.
it should remove all the codes apart from the gearbox one if the car goes into limp mode.

[carfanatic]

Cool. thanks so much Dave. I'll get on it tomorrow evening. /notworthy

[carfanatic]

Tomorrow never came tho I did disconnect the battery. Will be buying a speed sensor when back in the UK @ the w.end. Incidentally, sum barstuards just robbed my missus of her purse and all it's contents. Some people don't deserve the skin they walk in.

[blodeaxe]

guys a strange problem. What will cause the tranny to go straight into 2nd gear?

I switch on ignition an shift into D and 1st does not illuminate but 2nd does. Even after unplugged Battery or swapped TCU same condition as soon as I switch on ignition without even starting no codes flash on N light.

There is also no buzzing sound when shifted into reverse or back to 2nd.

Start engine on and from N to D slams into 2nd shift to R bigger slam

This happen last week and I swapped all the solenoids and it worked again thought i fixed it and went about my daily drive the next day and after got where i was going switched off came back and it happened again.

Towed home and switched on the car the next day and it was back to normal. I test drove it that day and it worked like normal longish drive switched off many times and it still worked.

Today its back to doing this crap.

[carfanatic]

Davezj MarkSanne peterthompson, @nickmann. Hi guys. I have the speed sensor. Is it supposed to have a 6 pin (oval ish) plug? Where the heck does it go? Cheers Col

[Davezj]

guys a strange problem. What will cause the tranny to go straight into 2nd gear?

I switch on ignition an shift into D and 1st does not illuminate but 2nd does. Even after unplugged Battery or swapped TCU same condition as soon as I switch on ignition without even starting no codes flash on N light.

There is also no buzzing sound when shifted into reverse or back to 2nd.

Start engine on and from N to D slams into 2nd shift to R bigger slam

This happen last week and I swapped all the solenoids and it worked again thought i fixed it and went about my daily drive the next day and after got where i was going switched off came back and it happened again.

Towed home and switched on the car the next day and it was back to normal. I test drove it that day and it worked like normal longish drive switched off many times and it still worked.

Today its back to doing this crap.

when you say you replaced the solenoids, what solenoids, the ones under the valve cover on the gear box?

if so it is beyond most people on here, if an auto box fails, it is normally thrown away and a second hand replacemnt is found.
i have stipped an auto box until no more parts will come apart and it quite complicated and i dont understand it. full of check vavles and solenoids.

[Nick Mann]

Which sensor? I can't think of any connector on the gearbox with 6 pins.

[MarkSanne]

As nick says... a gearbox speed sensor should have only 3 connectors (from memory), not 6.

[carfanatic]

Davezj & @nickmann Nick you are right. As I said in an earlier post, I do leather and assumed that this stepper gismo was attached to the G.box as it was that which was acting the goat. It transpires (just this morning) that the Speed sensor/Stepper motor is attached to the throttle body, is that correct? If so then it looks like I need to find a new mechanic who knows his speed sensors from his ignition fail thingymabob. C. P.S Once fitted is there a specific procedure to follow?

[Nick Mann]

No procedure for speed sensors. There are procedures for throttle body stuff though.

[carfanatic]

Once again thank you for all your help. Sensor fitted in 20 mins, then had to rest my glass back for best part of 2 hrs. Oh the joys of getting old.

[carfanatic]

spoke too soon, still doing it. @nickmann & Davezj

[carfanatic]

Davezj @nickmann any further help would be appreciated guys. I have looked as much as can at the looms and they seem ok. Col

[Davezj]

ok so the last thing you did before changing sensors was read the error codes,

now you have done a few bits to the car can youreset and read the codes again,
disconnect the battery to clear the codes then go for a drive, experience the issue and then read the codes again.
then report back and it will give us more of a point to restart the diagnosis.

by the way you need to put a space in Nick Mann to give him a poke.

[carfanatic]

Thanks Dave. will do this at the w.end.

[Nick Mann]

Which sensor was changed? Have you got pictures or part numbers to clarify?

[carfanatic]

Hi Nick Mann
The one on the lower of the throttle body (6 pins)

[Nick Mann]

I don't think the sensor on the throttle body has anything to do with your problem. The sensor that needs checking, possibly just the connection to it, is the output shaft speed sensor on the gearbox. This is found below the throttle body(ish) but it is not mounted on the throttle body, it is mounted on the gearbox. It should be a 3 wire connection.

[carfanatic]

Thanks Nick Mann do i access this through the engine bay or underneath. the latter could pose a problem for me.

[Nick Mann]

No, from the top. I can't remember the exact location, but it is on the top of the gearbox, somewhere underneath the MAF(ish). There is also an input shaft sensor more under the thermostat housing, but the code you read on page 1 of this thread showed the error code for the output shaft sensor.

It might just be a case of reseating the connector.

[Davezj]

if i remember correctly some of the connectors on top of the gear box will not just push on, they have odd metal 'C' clip going round them and sometimes they stop you pushing the connecton on correctly if that 'C' clip is not sitting correctly. it is work checking.

[peter thomson]

if i remember correctly some of the connectors on top of the gear box will not just push on, they have odd metal 'C' clip going round them and sometimes they stop you pushing the connecton on correctly if that 'C' clip is not sitting correctly. it is work checking.

That's just on the irritating to get at sensor for the speedometer and not the 2 shaft ones

[carfanatic]

Well for info I couldn't even locate the gearbox, LMAO, seriously I couldn't , haha.

[Davezj]

that probably why it has gone into limp mode, the gear box came loose and dropped out of the bottom of the car and you did not notice, LOL.

[carfanatic]

Davezj LMFAO, you could be right. lol

[carfanatic]

Davezj and Nick Mann

Took the day off on Thursday to spend some time on my baby, worthwhile in the end. Finished messing today as I have to work bending over in short bursts, that's why I take so damn long in doing stuff. Found the lost gear box after removing a load of big pipes and a big black box. Fiddled around with all the plugs, sprayed a bit of WD here and there. Put all that crap back and hey presto, took it for a drive and it's all good. I now have what sounds like a squeal from the water pump but it's only 4000mls old about 20 months ago. Thank you guys for all your help. P.S I no that dumb really. I knew exactly where the gear box was, I was bright enough to google it. LOL Lord bless the internet.

[Davezj]

Glad to hear you have found you tinkering mojo.
Bit of this a bit of that and it is fixed.
All hale the tinkering gods they are on you side today.

[carfanatic]

My mum always said I was a little tinker.

[carfanatic]

Davezj & Nick Mann Did you know there is a spray solution to cure squealing belts? C

[Davezj]

Just spray each of the belts in turn with a very small amount of wd40 to find out which is squealing. It should go quiet when hit with wd40.
Then just tighten it up a little to stop it squealing. If that does not stop it, replace the belt and scrape out the grooves on the pulleys as these could be filled with old rubber if the belt has been squealing for some time. Just replacing the belt will not stop the squealing if the grooves are filled with rubber.
I have experienced this.

It is belt squealing season after all, damp mornings, condensation covers everything in the engine bay.

[swinks]

Hi Nick Mann
The one on the lower of the throttle body (6 pins)
Stepper motor (ISCV)?

[carfanatic]

Davezj, Nick Mann & swinks Thanks guys, thats the cookie I replaced. All good now, thank you for all your help. Colin.

[carfanatic]

Davezj, Nick Mann & swinks Thank the Lord for giving us Belt Dressing. No More Squeals. C

[Davezj]

You can fix anything now, go for it.

[carfanatic]

Davezj, Nick Mann & swinks peter thomson
So Guys. i have finally taken out what I believe to be the Speed sensor. happy to purchase a new one however, Can someone explain what the additional connect is please. ( to the right of the pic)
75844
Is this a possible source of error?

Cheers Col.

[Davezj]

Speed sensor is on the left and the Kph to mph converter is on the right.
There should be a connector coming from the wiring loom that connects to the kph to mph converter.


Sent from my space-aged gizmo

[swinks]

Speed sensor on the left, factory Mitsubishi kph/mph converter on the right side. It's wiring patch harness which goes between sensor and loom plug. If faulty you can replace one with any generic converter with little soldering into the loom.

[carfanatic]

Thank you Tomasz swinks how do I determine which is faulty? I bought a new converter about a year ago but it has only two wires. Col.

[swinks]

Well, depends what you trying to fix :)
If your speedo reads any speed (needle is moving), then your speed sensor is OK.
If your speedo reads accurate speed then your speed sensor and converter are OK.

Typical generic speed converter has 4 to 5 wires. As said, in your picture there is one issued by Mitsubishi for official JDM imports to EU market.

If you think that your a/t gearbox gets into limp mode because of speed sensor fault then it may not be the case if your speedo cluster works.

[carfanatic]

Well, as you can see from the pic I have an extremely fast car. The speedo is 80mph @ 700 rpm and I haven't even put it in gear yet so it's still in Park. LMAO, really i need some help haha.75854
swinks Nick Mann DaveJz peter thomson

[c0xxy]

How is it at 700rpm if you haven't started the engine? Is that another issue, or wrong wording?

Sent from my XT1524 using Tapatalk

[carfanatic]

Nope not wrong wording, this is what it does when I switch on ignition. Oh and while its doing this the mileometer is clicking over mile by mile.

[c0xxy]

With speed sensor and converter disconnected, does it still do it?

I wouldn't have thought either of those would cause an issue with rpm tho

Sent from my XT1524 using Tapatalk

[swinks]

Speed sensor gone mad :)
That's 1st thing worth to check.

[carfanatic]

You are all right. I played around for a few hours , then got to work(haha) the converter is most definitely goosed. Got one of those and it does have 4 wires on it. I am assuming this one fits behind the speedo cluster.

I have corrected the wording on the previous post. Sorry for the confusion. Col.

[Nick Mann]

You can fit the 4 wire anywhere you want. I personally put it on the loom in the engine bay as it offsets the speed limiter as well. The four wires will be 12v, ground, signal in and signal out.