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Huber300zx
10-09-2015, 06:43 PM
Ok, so I have a 1999 Vr4, it won't roll in neutral, feels like gearbox and half shafts have broken. Which model trans are compatible with the 6A13TT motor model. Like which other mitsubishi models used this 5 speed for AWD

Davezj
10-09-2015, 11:36 PM
is it manual or auto?
if it is and auto, has the selector switch on the end of the selector cable become missaligned.
if so then it will look like you are in neutral when you are in D or R, try the other gear stick positions to see if it feels like neutral.
or has the hand brake seised on.

Huber300zx
11-09-2015, 05:33 PM
I said 5 speed, so manual gearbox

Huber300zx
11-09-2015, 05:36 PM
The clutch won't fully engage to move the car and I can pull my foot off the clutch and the car won't move just rock back and forth giving it gas. Makes horrific metal banging noises when trying to free itself.

Nick Mann
11-09-2015, 06:31 PM
I'd start by draining the oils from the gearbox, rear diff and transfer box. One of them should show signs of the issue.
If you can get the car in the air (at least one axle at a time) then try to spin individual wheels that might help. Awesome would be a 2 post lift and then stand underneath whilst someone operates the clutch and accelerator.
For future reference, autos have five gears too so your original post wasn't clear.

Bobby~d
11-09-2015, 07:51 PM
Could it be that the breaks are binding or the calipers stuck/sticking

Davezj
11-09-2015, 08:26 PM
I said 5 speed, so manual gearbox

the auto box is 5 speed

Davezj
11-09-2015, 08:49 PM
if i am reading this correctly you are saying the following,

1. the issue is put the manual gear box in neutral and you cant push the can buy hand to roll the car down the road.

2. put the car in gear and the car will not move, the clutch engages but does not stall the engine, so the clutch is slipping. the car trys to move when a bit of gas is applied but bang and crunches noise is heard.

if what i have saud is correct then i would go with nicks commects and test the action of the drive train, i would put it up on 4 axle stands and try to rotate the wheens by hand to see what happens and if you can get the crunch sound when doing this then get you head it position to determine where it doming from. then drop the oil as nick said. you should see signs of broken bits in the oil.

what were you doing when this happened, driving at speed, driving slowly, just pulling away from a stop, doing doughnuts. just out of interest.

Huber300zx
13-09-2015, 06:12 AM
Ok so here is what i got for you guys, the driver side, RHD, axle spins freely as if it is no longer attached and when I spin it the other wheel does not spin. Also the boot is all screwed up and there is bearing grease everywhere on that side. I'll try and post a picture. So I'm dropping the transfer case tomorrow, or can that axle be removed without doing so. Need to know my best option, but I'm almost certain it's the driver side CV axle broken. When it spins it clicks inside of its housing.

Davezj
13-09-2015, 09:34 AM
I presume you are talking about the front drive shaft and not the rear you don't make this clear.
Let's say this shaft has snapped some how and as you say it spins freely.
How does it stop the car from being pushed down the road in neutral.
I have trashed a front drive shaft so it failed as you have described and I could still drive the car due to power still going to rear wheels.
If the car can not move in or out of gear then something inside the drive train is very broken.

paulbonner84
13-09-2015, 10:32 AM
sounds to me like one of the diffs has said goodbye

Nick Mann
13-09-2015, 12:54 PM
If the transfer box has died catastrophically then that could be the issue. It contains the front diff and sends power rearwards so could leave one wheel free and lock up others.

Have you drained oils yet?

Nick Mann
13-09-2015, 12:55 PM
Driveshafts can be removed at the front by releasing the lower suspension arms to allow the hub carriers to swing outwards.

Huber300zx
13-09-2015, 03:27 PM
Yes, I have learned them as front half shafts but yes. So the car does move back and forth now but makes horrible noises, I'm thinking it was bound up in the end of the transfer case that's why it couldn't move, but while I was trying to move it I broke the axle that was bound I snapped it by trying to get the car to move. Is there any way to physically check the transfer case without disassembling it entirely, and also can all of this be done with the exhaust hooked up because the nuts look rusted and do not want to strip or snap one

Nick Mann
13-09-2015, 07:01 PM
Drain the oil. If the transfer box is dead you will see evidence in either the transfer box oil or the gearbox oil.

Huber300zx
13-09-2015, 07:03 PM
Ok I'll start there then. I don't have a socket that big so adjustable wrench here we come

Davezj
13-09-2015, 09:09 PM
24mm socket for transfer case drain, rear diff gear oil side drian, rear diff ayc side drain some early diff have hex allan key but some later one have 24mm socket i believe, auto gaer box drain, nopt sure about manual gear box drain.
it would be worth getting one. i went through a phase of drain bolt head chewing up with an adjustable spanner, not pretty.

SEAN-NZ
14-09-2015, 06:40 AM
The gearbox drain bolt is pretty big, pretty sure its the same as the others, I would use a big bar if you have one, I find it easier to get the socket from slipping off because the head is rather short and the sockets slips of rather easy

Huber300zx
27-09-2015, 03:15 PM
so I got it all sorted out, It seems as if the transfer case ran dry, mashed up the bearings and seals as well as the. The driver side CV Axle was toast as well. The problem I am running into is finding the axle or Gear driven tapered bearings as well as the tailshaft bearing. Anybody know the part numbers for these, as well as what other year transfer case AWD Mitsubishi models I can get these from as well. Where I am parts like these are extremely hard to find. I would rather rebuild the entire thing correctly with the appropriate bearings. I have found all of the seals, and o rings as well as the new drive axle and associated boots. Also what weight gear oil do you use for the transfer case. Thanks for any and all replies.

Nick Mann
27-09-2015, 05:06 PM
The transfer box is the same as the Evo 6 item. I have no idea where to get all the spares from. Most people source a second hand one if they have a problem. The transfer box is usually one of the more solid parts of the drive chain, so there are usually people with one sat around.

I use Amsoil SVG Severe Gear Oil in my transfer box, but I'd have to look that up to see the exact specs.

Huber300zx
27-09-2015, 11:52 PM
Ok that sounds good. What is the weight of that Amsoil? 90 wt? and that's good to know that its the same as the EVO 6, couldn't figure out if it was the 7 or 6. Would anybody on here have a set of drive bearings they are not in need of. Those are really the only things I need that I cant find. And would you be willing to ship to St Kitts in the Caribbean. I have Paypal so that makes things a world easier.

Nick Mann
28-09-2015, 08:03 AM
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/severe-gear-75w-90/

Huber300zx
30-09-2015, 03:42 AM
really need a supplier for these bearings primarily. Thats what is preventing me from getting it all buttoned up again