vented bonnet

[coney]

ok been asking about for what seems a life time i'm after a bonnet with as many vent holes as possible due to some serious heat issues under the bonnet.

If anybody has a fiberglass bonnet that can be modified i would appreciate alot

Kind Regards

Neal

[Louis]

How serious?.
They do run very hot under the bonnet.
I was working on mine with the engine running outdoors a week ago and had to take my jacket off ? ( In Scotland in Octover lol!)if you've gone bigger turbos do you have heatproof jackets and heat wrap on pipework etc.
Also basic things,
Remove the bonnet seal along the bulkhead this leave a couple of cm gap for air out , ( but also rain in!).
Also bonnet hinge raise kits, left the bonnet at the bulkhead so it is higher than standard, looks odd but will help get hear out.

[coney]

serious enough for engine management light to kick in & then cut the engine out altogether! yes the back turbo has a jacket but the front turbo is in really close proximity to radiator.

I don't know if there is any wrapping around the pipes as i didn't build the engine.

I wouldn't like to risk rain water to come into the engine bay with the thousands i've just spent on it, i've seen the bonnet lifters but again i don't want to let rain ect into the engine bay.

Here's a few pictures so you can see what i'm talking about it makes it alot easier.

Ok i've managed to do abit of photo editing i'm no expert but you can see further down into the engine itself & i've just noticed some things that don't sit to well they might not be important but they don't look to clever i've highlighted them in the pictures!

[Humpty's Revenge]

ok been asking about for what seems a life time i'm after a bonnet with as many vent holes as possible due to some serious heat issues under the bonnet.

If anybody has a fiberglass bonnet that can be modified i would appreciate alot

Kind Regards

Neal


serious enough for engine management light to kick in & then cut the engine out altogether! yes the back turbo has a jacket but the front turbo is in really close proximity to radiator.

I don't know if there is any wrapping around the pipes as i didn't build the engine.

I wouldn't like to risk rain water to come into the engine bay with the thousands i've just spent on it, i've seen the bonnet lifters but again i don't want to let rain ect into the engine bay.

Here's a few pictures so you can see what i'm talking about it makes it alot easier.

Ok i've managed to do abit of photo editing i'm no expert but you can see further down into the engine itself & i've just noticed some things that don't sit to well they might not be important but they don't look to clever i've highlighted them in the pictures!

That looks great Neal but why do you require a vented bonnet if you say you don't want water ingress by removing the rubber seal at the rear?

Surely a vented bonnet will just let water drip/run all over that engine unless you have a trick idea?

Apologies as I'm not being picky but I bought a car with a stupid bonnet with vents on & it created more problems that it solved

[Chris.W]

Nope there is no wrapping around the pipes. All boost pipes are made of high quality S/S with Silicone joiners, all your coolant hoses are silicone and all your oil/fuel lines are sp2 ptfe lined S/S braided hoses with anodized aluminium aero style fittings. There is a big assed blanket on the rear tub, on the front tub it is the 'cold' side of the tub that is close to the rad and as such should not need a blanket.

Out of curiosity, what dosn't look right in the pics?

In the bottom left one the bit you have circled I believe is to do with the a/c which you no longer have as the front tub would not fit with the a/c pump in place. That part has been left in as it plugs another system. My one of them is exactly the same. Done whilst fitting my Td04's :)

Which part of the area marked are you confused about in the top left pic?

[peter thomson]

The circled one with the 2 pipes cut is for the power steering not ac

[Chris.W]

Ah ok fair enough, my mistake. I know it plugs into the power steering hose but was led to believe the vac hoses were for something else. Mine has been chopped like that for many years and never caused a problem.

[giblet]

Not sure if Atik's one is still for sale - http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?73776-Vented-fibre-glass-bonnet-for-8G-Galant-Legnum

[Louis]

Might be worth going on DYNO to get set up checked.
There are a few. Running td04 and upped boost, that are not having your issues .
Something is making it run too hot , to the extent that the light comes on and it cuts out!!!, somethings not right, could be running too much advance timing, or too much boost!.
Others aren't having those problems do something might be amiss, not just a vented bonnet.
Most vent bonnets have removable rain guards under them.
Have you used Evo scan to look at fault codes etc, may point to something!

[coney]

I want a vented bonnet to try and let more air round the engine bay,but like somebody further down has said there's seals for around the vents.

No need to apologise buddy your just trying to help me out!

[coney]

the bits that don't look right are the coloured wires are just out in the open i would have thought they would have been atleast heat shrink or taped.
I'm no expert as you will know by now!

[coney]

Well after finding more information out today from my local mitsubishi/subaru tuners i've been told some tests need doing on the car as there are some things that were over looked as the engine was being built.

There not sure if the head bolts were tightened up properly at the end of the build so thats one thing they are checking !

The 2nd thing is the mapping there saying its all over the place so that needs checking & sorting out.

Next is a compression test

& the last is hydrocarnon test in the water.

So its just waiting game now!

Well pis**d off about it all though!

a few clips so you can hear it

Takes a while to start up too!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CF6WgA-uHs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rl0x9boqOU
Just out of curiosity when a tuner puts a car on the dyno do they ask for a disclaimer?

[peter thomson]

Was the fuel pump just recently fitted. The poor starting is usually down to the seal not being fitted correctly and subsequently not enough fuel pressure.

Yes a disclaimer is normal

[Louis]

Head bolts could be coming loose due to high boost pressure!.
Mapping, as mentioned, poss ignition timing too advanced also causing high temperatures in combustion chamber and general heat issues.
Compression test, head gasket check for potential loosing water into cylinders and general loosing water.
Hydrocarbon test, they will attach a container to the rad overflow (the container replaces the overflow lid). the container has a fluid in it, and if there are exhaust gasses in the radiator water the fluid changes colour, (from clear to Green or Yellow depending on oil or exhaust fumes in the radiator water.
Sounds like they are checking for head gasket and other issues, hopefully it is just the mapping, too advanced ignition etc, and when they map it correctly it will solve your issues. but, they are doing the right thing by checking all the above before going straight to re mapping.
Hope fully you will have it sorted soon, hang in there!.
:)
Were you loosing water?

Is it running a stand alone new ECU, or a piggy back ECU, or a re flashed Standard ECU?

[Louis]

ALso, check your radiator cap, 1.1 bar is good, but 1.3 bar may cause you issues!

[coney]

no peter the fuel pump has been fitted a while.

[coney]

Louis its never been under fill boost not loosing water the radiator is brimmed. the fluid in the radiator is crystal clear.
There's no water leaks anywhere & its a vipec ecu

[Louis]

My God man, you should be ashamed of yourself!!. what do you mean it's never been under full boost!!! lol!. (only kidding :) )

That is actually a good thing, it means that the overheating is not due to water loss, meaning, head gaskets and heads etc are in good shape, so hopefully not a mechanical issue.
It could be a sensor causing issues or misinterpretation with the Vipec, or something has changed that is affecting the tune that is in the vipec.

OR, the thermostat is stuck closed, not allowing water to circulate around the radiator!.

I have seen before where a car is well set up, and then when it is up for sale, someone may take a couple of their favourite bits, and replace them with other parts, or, they have just replaced something that has broken or worn out, but it has affected the ECU tune. sometimes replaced items need to be adjusted at source or in the ecu management of them (i.e. changing the exhaust gas sensor etc).
Ideally if anything changes you need to check the map.
Hopefully it is something simple and they can sort you out, I'm interested to know what it is that is causing the overheating?
:)

If you dan't have it I would get evoscan, and the VAG cheap cable, which allows you to read fault codes and see real time what is happening when engine is running.
it's about £15 to download and the cable is about £20 ish, there is info on the site how to get started with it.
:)

[coney]

Louis i do feel ashamed but some of the things the bloke was saying didn't add up thats the reason it never got any beans.

Here's a few things that were said.

1. Don't have the car stood idling for to long.
2. the turbo's will sound like there fighting against each other but you just have to drive through it (ok that sounds normal NOT!)
3. He's already melted a full set of piston & rings so that made me question a few things
4. This diff i bought cost me £1700 meant to be out of a x recci car evo i think from steve on here,he said the rear diff just locked up doing 50mph & this is whats left of that £1700 diff.

So there's been a few things bugging me about this build whether certain things that have happened like this diff with supposedly brand new internals but yet it just locked up who knows Bush??? not me that's a cert!

[Gowf]

Okay neal let's actually talk fact rather than misquoted nonsense. Firstly your diff was originally mine. I bought it from Mml, used it, sold it to Steve, and you then bought it from him via me. It was fitted and ran for around 800miles before it siezed. I was as shocked as you when it did. From memory tye 1700 included shafts. I then paid for 1/2 of a new diff and shaft that were destroyed

[Gowf]

As for the engine, the first time it did not melt. It ran for 2hours faultlessly and then wouldn't start when I came back to it a week later. Turns out it was the powdercoater who had not masked the rocker covers properly attempted to clean the worst out from the windage tray but did not inform me of this. So the blast media was what destroyed Rye engine, and it took out rings, liners, crank, bearings, oil pump. So I then paid to have new pistons and con rods made, new oil pump, crank, bearings etc and had the block remachined and bottom end built by my machine shop. From there we were all good.

[Gowf]

Me telling you not to have it idling was down to the fact that the front turbo (gt2871) is very close to the rad and I could only get one fan in. I never had any problem with it overheating and so suggested that as caution. You should be producing twice the heat that you were and this is why there is a mishimoto evo rad fitted. Prior to it being dropped off to you there was no issue with it overheating. I had a friend out in it with me whilst mapping and we experienced none of that. After 2 weeks of having it you start to tell me there are issues. As you know I'm not in the country much at the moment but offered to have the car back to a friend's where I would find time when I am around to get to it and see what is what. You then declined this offer. As such I do not know what else you expect me to do here. But attempting to slate me on the forum doesn't actually bother me as I'm never really on here, nd the fact I work mapping LMP1 engines means I don't need the work. So I just thought I would set you straight on some matters that you have been told time and time again about

[coney]

There you go again gareth wobbling your chops! you told me the piston & rings were fried! so if the car ran fine for 2 hours had the powder coaters done the work while you were away?
You never said a word to me about only being able to fit one fan in there, yes you said it was in close proximity to the radiator that was it!

There was an evo radiator on the very first quote you gave me gareth & never said a word about changing the radiator being changed when you dropped it off.

You near as dam it blamed whatever the issue is with the over heating problem on me my mates,dad or carer when it had been stood for probably 10 days before i went out in it,the only other times it was started was to get my audi out & a couple of times to see what the temperature gauges were saying.

Everything was done correctly the oil temperature was left to get to 55 degrees which you advised me to do so did it,thats something why would the temperature gauge work while it's static then the first time i went out in it with my carer & nephew start jumping from 62 to -32 then -54? we pulled in at a petrol station waited for 4 cars to go through,filled it up pulled out of the petrol station got about 50 yard up the road the car started juddering like **** then cut out altogether!
It never went above 4500rpm & certainly didn't get it into boost tbh i thought the engine was completely ****ed!

Yes you did offer to take the car & have a look at it but having already paid the best part of £24,000 then you said you would have to pay for petrol there & back & days worth of wages i wasn't left with a choice but to have to decline its not like i'm earning £500 a week i get £812 a month disability benefits the money i paid you with was out of my compo from being runover!

At first gareth it wasn't about slating anybody i just wanted to try & cure the issues well i still am,but then with you basically saying the car was fine when it was dropped off it feels like your blaming me & everybody else around me for whats happening & what i'm paying out for this is the reason why i'm fuming if i'm honest.

I'll be the first to admit i know **** all about cars in all honesty but what i will say is nothing anybody here has done can cause these issues so where the blame lies i really don't care but it most certainly isn't here!

Think of it as you want!

[coney]

There you go again gareth wobbling your chops! you told me the piston & rings were fried! so if the car ran fine for 2 hours had the powder coaters done the work while you were away?
You never said a word to me about only being able to fit one fan in there, yes you said it was in close proximity to the radiator that was it!

There was an evo radiator on the very first quote you gave me gareth & never said a word about changing the radiator being changed when you dropped it off.

You near as dam it blamed whatever the issue is with the over heating problem on me my mates,dad or carer when it had been stood for probably 10 days before i went out in it,the only other times it was started was to get my audi out & a couple of times to see what the temperature gauges were saying.

Everything was done correctly the oil temperature was left to get to 55 degrees which you advised me to do so did it,thats something why would the temperature gauge work while it's static then the first time i went out in it with my carer & nephew start jumping from 62 to -32 then -54? we pulled in at a petrol station waited for 4 cars to go through,filled it up pulled out of the petrol station got about 50 yard up the road the car started juddering like **** then cut out altogether!
It never went above 4500rpm & certainly didn't get it into boost tbh i thought the engine was completely ****ed!

Yes you did offer to take the car & have a look at it but having already paid the best part of £24,000 then you said you would have to pay for petrol there & back & days worth of wages i wasn't left with a choice but to have to decline its not like i'm earning £500 a week i get £812 a month disability benefits the money i paid you with was out of my compo from being runover!

At first gareth it wasn't about slating anybody i just wanted to try & cure the issues well i still am,but then with you basically saying the car was fine when it was dropped off it feels like your blaming me & everybody else around me for whats happening & what i'm paying out for this is the reason why i'm fuming if i'm honest.

I'll be the first to admit i know **** all about cars in all honesty but what i will say is nothing anybody here has done can cause these issues so where the blame lies i really don't care but it most certainly isn't here!

Think of it as you want!

[Gowf]

I haven't said that you've done anything to the car. Oil temp sensor failing.... How exactly is that my fault? Yes pistons and rings knackered due to debris, which were the result of the powder coater. And out of all this money you've paid me I have made a handsome -£3000. So no I can't continue to work for free. I have tried to help the best I can but being flown across the world every week doesn't give me a great deal of time to sort things.that may not be your problem but younger to realise this isn't just like bolting on a bigger turbo to an evo, and things will go wrong until you can identify and iron out all of the faults. End of the day you may like airing your laundry in public but I don't. I just wanted to put the entire story across rather than being called this that and the next.

[Humpty's Revenge]

Here's a few things that were said.

4. This diff i bought cost me £1700 meant to be out of a x recci car evo i think from steve on here,he said the rear diff just locked up doing 50mph & this is whats left of that £1700 diff.

So there's been a few things bugging me about this build whether certain things that have happened like this diff with supposedly brand new internals but yet it just locked up who knows Bush??? not me that's a cert!

Neal sorry to hear about your problems dude.

One thing that reads wrong to me is quoted above & it sounds like I said it locked up at 50mph ??

Can you confirm this please ??

Simply because I bought the diff off of Gareth & I never used it because I simply scrapped the car as it was not worth spending a stupid amount of money on something that was riddled with rust, car not diff....

[coney]

sorry Humpty's i didn't mean the car locked up on you gareth said he was doing 50mph & the back wheels just locked up. s i had to put to with gareth £500 each for an RS diff,why is there something wrong about what i've said?

[Humpty's Revenge]

yes Humpty's Revenge he said he was doing 50mph & the back wheels just locked up. s i had to put to with gareth £500 each for an RS diff,why is there something wrong about what i've said?

Nothing now Neal, it just looks like the way it's typed that I had said I was doing 50 mph when it seized that was all dude.

[coney]

well gareth faults don't just happen from the car being moved a few times on the drive then me going out in it once i must have got a sneaky mechanic who comes & does things to the can in night :mask: /duh

If the oil temperature sensor was faulty why does it work untill the car starts moving? or is it the movement of the car that causes the sensor to start reading the the temp wrong? it your fault because the fact is you knew about it so why didn't you sort it out when you had the car?

Was the powder coating done while you were away? the £3000 you lost wasn't anything to do with me if i could have helped with it i would have without thinking twice!

I know things can happen with new engine rebuilds i'm not that thick!

If i had this job done at a specialist company same as dmc for example how much would it cost & time to do it is irrelevant due to you doing it in your own time but the the fact is they wouldn't give a car back to the owner with any faults that is a fact!

I don't really care a flying f**k where i am or whose there listening if i feel i have to say something i will without a doubt i've had to learn the the hard way keeping my mouth shut & letting things go resulting in been owed over £10,000 getting walked, people take advantage of my soft generous side!

Not implying you at all!

Thats it i'm done this car has disheartened me so much its just to much to handle! if its going to cost another shed load it will be up for sale.

[Gowf]

Oil temp sensor is clearly a resistance fault once it goes above a certain temperature. A sensor is not going to be expensive and I DID tell you about it and that you should have it changed at the next oil change. You paid for an engine, it wasn't your fault or mine that it didn't go well the first time but I had to stand on that, and did so without question, as the burden was not yours. The bottom line is neal, I wouldn't have given you the car back if it wasn't right. It was when it left me. The water temp gauge does work on the dash so there was no need for it to be driven up into the red, you should have noticed and stopped. Irrelevant really as the cutting out as you put it is a limp mode designed to protect the engine but doesn't kick in until 110C, which is fine for 3Bar of coolant pressure. My money as I told you is on a sticky thermostat as it's never had this fault before. Again I said to you to just remove it but you refused saying that mitsubishi wanted one in so it should be in. If they'd have wanted gt28s on there they'd have put them on, so removal of the thermostat is something that should be done first as I said to ensure its not something as simple as that. Oh... BTW, all of your head studs were torqued to with arp grease fitted to the Arp torque settings and rechecked once the engine had been run for a few hours.
Your fluttering is an actuator mismatch due to the rear one being relocated, which can be adjusted by shims but will take a bit of time. I got it as close as I could with what I had and the time available. This again is just repeating myself. You would have been best controlling each bank individually with external wastegates and 2 inlet manifolds but that would be expensive and so we went down this route as phase 1 to prove the concept without spending another 5-10k. You do know all this though.

The last thing I will say on the subject is that you should really wait until you have the facts before you start ranting and throwing accusations around on the Internet. I as well as you want the car to be right but doing this is not productive for anyone.

[coney]

Nothing now Neal, it just looks like the way it's typed that I had said I was doing 50 mph when it seized that was all dude.
Ok did you think i meant it locked up on you? no mate not at all dude sorry about that bud.

[coney]

Oil temp sensor is clearly a resistance fault once it goes above a certain temperature. A sensor is not going to be expensive and I DID tell you about it and that you should have it changed at the next oil change. You paid for an engine, it wasn't your fault or mine that it didn't go well the first time but I had to stand on that, and did so without question, as the burden was not yours. The bottom line is neal, I wouldn't have given you the car back if it wasn't right. It was when it left me. The water temp gauge does work on the dash so there was no need for it to be driven up into the red, you should have noticed and stopped. Irrelevant really as the cutting out as you put it is a limp mode designed to protect the engine but doesn't kick in until 110C, which is fine for 3Bar of coolant pressure. My money as I told you is on a sticky thermostat as it's never had this fault before. Again I said to you to just remove it but you refused saying that mitsubishi wanted one in so it should be in. If they'd have wanted gt28s on there they'd have put them on, so removal of the thermostat is something that should be done first as I said to ensure its not something as simple as that. Oh... BTW, all of your head studs were torqued to with arp grease fitted to the Arp torque settings and rechecked once the engine had been run for a few hours.
Your fluttering is an actuator mismatch due to the rear one being relocated, which can be adjusted by shims but will take a bit of time. I got it as close as I could with what I had and the time available. This again is just repeating myself. You would have been best controlling each bank individually with external wastegates and 2 inlet manifolds but that would be expensive and so we went down this route as phase 1 to prove the concept without spending another 5-10k. You do know all this though.

The last thing I will say on the subject is that you should really wait until you have the facts before you start ranting and throwing accusations around on the Internet. I as well as you want the car to be right but doing this is not productive for anyone.

Put it this way gareth yes i paid for the engine to be built Built correctly should involve changing sensors not telling me to change it like i can do it myself! no its shelling more money out to get it done.
The bottom line is you did give me the car back unfinished due to the oil temp sensor,it may seem nothing to you but it's a f**king nightmare for me.

I know the water temp gauge works but what do you expect lindsay to do keep her eyes on every gauge when pulling out of the petrol station? & what reason would the water temp gauge to go up as quick as that? surprise surprise it was fine when you dropped it off guess it was that sneaky mechanic messing up the car when it was stood on the drive.

The thermostat Same thing again you to just remove it but but i wouldn't just let anybody loose on the car to start removing parts not that they would know where it is so again more money to shell out to get it removed you fail to remember i can't physically do any of the things you tell me to do,if removal of the thermostat should be done first why didn't you remove it?

So what are you trying to say about head studs?

And when do you suggest i adjust the shims? Is the flutter noise we talked about when you said you can hear the turbo's fighting against each other? & you said just drive through it? tat can't be healthy for the turbo's surely.

The only way i can see something productive is for me to pay somebody who ever it is one way or another.

I know the facts gareth & know nobody here has touched the car in anyway to change how it is as it stands now which isn't any use to nobody as it just over heats & cuts out so when & where ever it goes won't be driven.

[Davezj]

i dont want to stir anything up, i just want to ask a couple of simple questions.

so can i point out a couple of things,
firstly should the fuel pressure regulator vac/boost pipe be connected pre or post throttle body, the standard postion is post throttle body and in the picture it is pre throttle body. not sure if this will make much difference or not.

secondly the pipes that used to connect to the power steering conpensation valve, these have been cut, which is fair enough, one side of the valve used to go to the pipe that has been blanked off at the elbow pre throttle body but the other side of the valve goes to the pipe that is on the inlet manifold, is this pipe difinitely blanked off, as this will let unmetered air into the inlet manifold. which will cause fueling issues under vacuum condition and act as a boost leak under boost conditions.

[coney]

i dont want to stir anything up, i just want to ask a couple of simple questions.

so can i point out a couple of things,
firstly should the fuel pressure regulator vac/boost pipe be connected pre or post throttle body, the standard postion is post throttle body and in the picture it is pre throttle body. not sure if this will make much difference or not.

secondly the pipes that used to connect to the power steering conpensation valve, these have been cut, which is fair enough, one side of the valve used to go to the pipe that has been blanked off at the elbow pre throttle body but the other side of the valve goes to the pipe that is on the inlet manifold, is this pipe difinitely blanked off, as this will let unmetered air into the inlet manifold. which will cause fueling issues under vacuum condition and act as a boost leak under boost conditions.
I have no idea buddy i really can't be doing with the car now its got to that stage where i just want to be able to get in a car if its a plastic pig its got to be 100% more reliable than that lump of **** outside. srry about the negativity everybody but i think at this point i'm hanging up the gloves & won't be on here by next week.

Its been good for the experiences i've had so that will do me.

[Gowf]

i dont want to stir anything up, i just want to ask a couple of simple questions.

so can i point out a couple of things,
firstly should the fuel pressure regulator vac/boost pipe be connected pre or post throttle body, the standard postion is post throttle body and in the picture it is pre throttle body. not sure if this will make much difference or not.

secondly the pipes that used to connect to the power steering conpensation valve, these have been cut, which is fair enough, one side of the valve used to go to the pipe that has been blanked off at the elbow pre throttle body but the other side of the valve goes to the pipe that is on the inlet manifold, is this pipe difinitely blanked off, as this will let unmetered air into the inlet manifold. which will cause fueling issues under vacuum condition and act as a boost leak under boost conditions.
Dave, the fuel pressure reg is rising rate and so requires to see manifold pressure... Which it does. Yes the manifold is blanked off but you obviously can't see it. Neal, this really is rhe last thing I will say on the subject. After screaming at me everyday to get the car back as soon as possible I did just that, and so no I didn't have time to order or change (which would be better at an oil change) the sensor. The sensor does not effect the engine calibration. It is measly there as a visual tool, so wasn't on the high priority list when time was short. I did the best I could do when I have a full time job that sends me abroad every week to get your car done as fast as I could when it was down in England. After I gave it to you,it was 2weeks or more before you started to complain of the issues. You must appreciate that to me it doesn't sound like it's never been out... I don't know anyone who would wait that long. Anyway, you say you did and so that's whats happened. Now it overheats. I'm not blaming you, I am measly trying to diagnose the fault which is difficult when not with the car, which is exactly why I wanted it to go to a friend's where I could get to it, or he could look at it for me. I don't think I am being unreasonable here at all. You wanted your car back asap, I did that. I would not have given the car back if there were issues neal, it's not how I work. Working for free is fine,but it becomes different when I am having to pay to ship your car around the place. I have spent a fortune and can not afford to do it anymore. All I asked was for you to pay to get it there, something you would have to do with any garage. So I have offered and you have turned me down. That's where it's left. I think you've let everyone know your feelings on the matter and the fact that you expect an 800bhp car to be a daily driver without any teething problems or issues. As I've said before this is not a productive way to resolve any issue. I eagerly await the results

[coney]

Gareth i never even phoned you to scream down phone at you so that is a blatant lie! i messaged 3 to 4 times a day because you wasn't answering my messages but you had time to read them & when you reply to me you do rely its normally not in the nicest way I told you prior to doing my first set of upgrades on the car that was how it started when the bloke took my G60 & look what happened to me then lost £8,000 in cash & got my golf back in pieces fu*ked no engine in it ect so how do you expect me to react?
I wo say i was was screaming more frustration coming out.

As for time you had the car well over a year granted you were working away but how many times did you tell me the car would be ready on such & such a day that day came but there was always something coming up whether it be work or some excuse was happening, thats when i started getting pis*ed off as anybody else would have.

If the temp gauge is measly visual tool you said earlier on you mentioned keeping our eyes on the temp gauge & stopped & also again in your last post when you said "The sensor does not effect the engine calibration. It is measly there as a visual tool" the tool is there for the exact thing you told me to get so i can make sure the oil temp is up to 55 degrees! hw would i have been able to do that if the "measly tool wasn't there??

No Gareth you should appreciate this! the car hadn't been took out for a proper drive ( as i said it had been moved all of 4 times) you seem to forget i can't just jump in the car when i feel like it i have a lot of things to consider like finding somebody who is confident enough to drive it,just having major reconstructive surgery on my leg,getting 2 people who know how to transfer me properly into the car there's more things but really can't be arsed if i'm honest.

You asked me what happened when it overheated so i told you exactly what was happening when it happened.
Yes you said you would take it to your mates to find out what was going off but i can't afford to pay for the petrol there and back,how ever many days wages then new parts it needed i told you that straight after you you asked!

You never mentioned anything about shipping the car wherever at all i wouldn't have any arguments about trying to help you out with that,if you told me all you wanted was petrol money to get it to you there & back i would have i was thinking you wanted paying a mechanics wagers was between £40 or £50 an hour that would have worked out to be a fortune to me.

My feelings on all over the place as i told you when i was in hospital,the consultants changed my anti depressants so i feel like a a woman with hormonal issues! and still am but worse off as i have ever been before as everybody can see for themselves i'm having serious issues how to respond to everything even down to what bloody jumper i want on in a morning its terrible.

I didn't know what it was to drive about it an 800hp car at all what was it before? 310 350tq? having been in the car now i can sort of grasp what its like & my weren't to have it as a daily driver it was for nice days out maybe a track day if i could find a driver who knows how to throw an 800hp car about but i can't say its ever going to happen in my lifetime now.

I agree this is not a productive way to solve matters i don't even know why i started this rant tbh this is a prime example about my mood & temper problems my head injury doesn't help matters either i need to find out what frontal lobe damage is responsible for in all honesty

Ok enough of this ranting & being a complete dick i hate arguments or even disagreements tbh! see what i mean about mood & temper problems its got to end at some point surely well i bloody well hope so words can't express what goes through my head!

Thats it i'm not even going to mention anything about the past with the car history ect i'm fed up with it all.

Apologies to everybody who is on this thread for the endless argument ect including you gareth!

lets see what these test results come up with!

here's why i've got to be careful when getting transferred anywhere specially the legnum as its its REALLY LOW

[Nick Mann]

To be honest this thread appears to be a show of frustration more than anything else. Knowing Gareth I would imagine that he is also frustrated that the car isn't working correctly at the moment. I guess that there is a way to get this resolved and end up with an awesome VR4 and I hope you both have the satisfaction of seeing it sorted. It sounds like it is 99% there.

[coney]

I don't even know what to say on the matter 75% of the time now if i'm completely honest Nick my brains fryed!

[swinks]

ok been asking about for what seems a life time i'm after a bonnet with as many vent holes as possible due to some serious heat issues under the bonnet.

If anybody has a fiberglass bonnet that can be modified i would appreciate alot

Kind Regards

Neal
Typical vented bonnet won't solve your issues Neal. Talking from experience. Unless you want one for just "look".

[paulbonner84]

i dont want to stir anything up, i just want to ask a couple of simple questions.

so can i point out a couple of things,
firstly should the fuel pressure regulator vac/boost pipe be connected pre or post throttle body, the standard postion is post throttle body and in the picture it is pre throttle body. not sure if this will make much difference or not.

secondly the pipes that used to connect to the power steering conpensation valve, these have been cut, which is fair enough, one side of the valve used to go to the pipe that has been blanked off at the elbow pre throttle body but the other side of the valve goes to the pipe that is on the inlet manifold, is this pipe difinitely blanked off, as this will let unmetered air into the inlet manifold. which will cause fueling issues under vacuum condition and act as a boost leak under boost conditions.
dave i see the car today all i will say is it takes ages to start sounds like its not getting fuel for ages could that be one of the issues?

[Gowf]

No. That's a cold start mapping issue.

[Louis]

Surely it could be anything!

[Gowf]

Not really, as I have built it, mapped it in a short period of time, and started to improve it by adjusting the cold start compensation tables before it left me, that's what my money is on. My problem is time, as I am away every other week to support the world endurance championship LMP1 engines, I get no time to myself let alone for homers any more. Anyway, everything is currently hearsay and conjecture until it is looked at in depth. The truth is that it bears very little resemblance to the 6a13 now.

[Pugme]

What about adding some negative camber Gareth?

:-p

[coney]

if i didn't laugh i would be crying or should i say the other way round!

[Pugme]

Can I just ask tho neal, with a build of this magnitude, why did you not take the car to a company like eurospec? I know Gareth and he has come to my aid more than once he bledy brakes for me before I knew how to do it and did my manual conversion, but at no point would I or could I hold him liable for any unforseen circumstances

I'm an average driveway mechanic now, and I know the risks involved. I allow my friends to work on my car also with associated risks but if something goes wrong, then I have to deal with it.

A company may charge considerably more for the same job but your paying for peace of mind and their liability insurance.

Of course hindsight is an amazing thing but you surely weighed up the odds between "a guy" or "a company" doing this work for you and I'd say it's not fair that your blaming Gareth for whatever reasons you believe to be his fault. I haven't had a working speedo since he did my manual conversion, I have spent hours trying to figure it out I've traced wires, sensors etc but it's not his fault (I think the speed sensor in the gearbox has faulted but it's gearbox off to change) whereas if my conversion were done by eurospec for an agreed price I would expect the issue rectified without argument or query

[coney]

Darren i'm not even going to answer for a few reasons mainly my health i'm getting mad as hell already & at 34 suffering from a large variety of health issues having had a heart attack already i can no longer continue with these arguments back & forth. I know things which nobody on this website knows & have nobody but myself to back me up i know what the facts are as i'm sure somebody else will but i don't think they will ever admit or hold there hands up to the truth!

On that note i won't be posting on here anymore as its all one sided so thats it i'm done!

[Humpty's Revenge]

Right chaps as this has now run it's course I'm closing the thread.

Neal if you require this opened again please pm me.