AYC light red

[andydckent]

Hello,

In recent months I've noticed that there is a wee squeal coming from the rear right hand side of the car just after start up. I assume this is coming from the AYC pump? In the last few days on a couple of trips (not every one) the red AYC light has come on on the dash board from start up.

Any suggestions for what I should be looking for to solve this or does it sound like its the pump gone?

Thanks

Andy

[Davezj]

if you have not fitted one already an adjustable pressure switch should help the issue.

you can get them from Malc can't remember his user name.

[Confused]

MPBVr4

[Davezj]

That's the one.


Sent from my space-aged gizmo

[Nick Mann]

Have you checked the fluid levels recently? Both the atf fluid in the pump and in the rear diff are supposed to be changed very regularly.

[MPBVr4]

That's the one.


Sent from my space-aged gizmo

/Wyhy

[andydckent]

Have you checked the fluid levels recently? Both the atf fluid in the pump and in the rear diff are supposed to be changed very regularly.

I'll check the level in the boot at the weekend and also the colour. If I need to top up can I just pour in or is there a procedure to follow? Also how easy to check the one in the diff if I jack car up? Not done anything like that myself before.


/Wyhy

Malc, I'll be in touch about a switch if the above doesn't sort things out. Is this something that would be easy enough to fit myself?


Thanks

Andy

[Piers1989]

In relation to this I may be sending my pump off for a rebuild as new fluid and switch adjustments haven't cured my AYC light in warm weather.

Can the car be driven with the pump taken off without AYC?

[Confused]

Best to pull the fuse, and make sure the fluid lines to the diff are looped onto each other (to prevent foreign objects getting into the lines)

The diff will then act like an open diff.

[MPBVr4]

Malc, I'll be in touch about a switch if the above doesn't sort things out. Is this something that would be easy enough to fit myself?
Thanks
Andy

Easy .... even I did it. See http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?10171-X-Changing-AYC-Switch

[Nick Mann]

Also, diff fluids are a bit awkward, but having the right tools makes it a DIY job. Read this thread, noting that the pictures are now in post #6 http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?3851-Txfer-box-Diff-amp-AYC-Oil-change

[andydckent]

OK so I checked the fluid. Reservoir is full and oil is bright red still. Not checked in the diff. No sign of the red light for last few days... Will see if it returns.

[Piers1989]

Best to pull the fuse, and make sure the fluid lines to the diff are looped onto each other (to prevent foreign objects getting into the lines)

The diff will then act like an open diff.

Sorry for the sudden revival of this -

I'm going to send my pump off for a refurb. The garage has gone to take it off but they have said the connections for the pump are threaded and so they cant just loop them together without a special connector of some kind?

I asked if they could blank them off but they said without the right blanking plate for the thread they can't do that either. What do they require to do this?

[Confused]

Sorry for the sudden revival of this -

I'm going to send my pump off for a refurb. The garage has gone to take it off but they have said the connections for the pump are threaded and so they cant just loop them together without a special connector of some kind?

I asked if they could blank them off but they said without the right blanking plate for the thread they can't do that either. What do they require to do this?

If it's a male thread on the pipes, I'd personally put a piece of rubber hose between the two on the threads and jubilee clip it together. Without the pump, it won't be under any pressure, so it only needs to hold the fluid in.

If the pipes have the female union, then it's more difficult, as you might need the correct thread. I doubt the thread pitch is anything special, and a bolt or piece of bar of the right size could be re-threaded with a tap & die set to the correct thread.

If you've taken it to a trained fitter, who can't think of solutions for themselves, then you may need to re-think your choice of garage! ;)

[Piers1989]

If it's a male thread on the pipes, I'd personally put a piece of rubber hose between the two on the threads and jubilee clip it together. Without the pump, it won't be under any pressure, so it only needs to hold the fluid in.

If the pipes have the female union, then it's more difficult, as you might need the correct thread. I doubt the thread pitch is anything special, and a bolt or piece of bar of the right size could be re-threaded with a tap & die set to the correct thread.

If you've taken it to a trained fitter, who can't think of solutions for themselves, then you may need to re-think your choice of garage! ;)

They are a general garage who also do body repair. Have a pretty big workshop but I've been using them for a few years and their pretty good with most things.

I don't think the staff are used to doing "non standard" jobs but they've handled a full front end removal and reassembly of my dads 6.0 Phaeton including engine and all the parts that have to come out and go back in.

They said they looked at using fuel pipe but it wasn't possible because of the thread.

[Davezj]

i tend to do cut the finger off a disposable pair of gloves put it over the pipe end and a cable tie for male threads

and

cut a finger off a disposable pair of gloves and a twist of paper inside the finger then screw it into the female thread.

[Grid]

For posterity's sake the thread on both the diff and the pump itself is a female M14. The pipes are therefore male M14's, it's a strange kind of M14 though since it's tapered like NPT thread. Any hydraulics shop can supply a M14 plug. Be sure to get the round head type, with a hex key slot inside, since the fittings are too close together for comfort of screwing in hex heads...