WTB Galant VR4 Alternator

[Judder]

Or compatible - mine has decided to stop charging and the red battery light is on

1997 Galant VR-4

Many thanks!

[Bobby~d]

Check out this page from Viamoto
https://www.viamoto.co.uk/products.php?cat=Mitsubishi+Legnum%2FGalant+VR4+-+Engine+Parts&pg=3

[KamG]

hi do you happen to no wat part no it is??? & do you need a 100 or 120 Amp?

[Bobby~d]

From reading on here (search alternator) I found that the 120a one is for cold spec cars and the 100a one is for normal spec cars. Either one will work (bolt up to the engine) but I believe that the 120a one is slightly larger and takes some massaging to get into place. Honestly both takes some fiddling with to get in place. There are write ups here on the steps to get the old one out and the new one in tho. Best of luck & hope this helps.

[Piers1989]

Have you checked the 100amp alternator fuse?

One time my alternate was replaced and the problem was the fuse.....

[Dom B]

It is usually the rectifier. It doesn’t always fully go. Sometimes just one phase goes which causes the light to come on anyway.

Anyway. You can get a 120a FTO one and it is exactly the same. Easy to get in the uk and I have been running one on my car. It literally is the same part but they don’t show the same part number for some reason. I spoke to an alternator expert at length and he worked or out for me.

[Judder]

Thanks guys :thumbsup:

I'll double check the fuse but if it's in the engine bay then I continuity tested all of those and they seemed OK

For the replacing alternator guide I found this one (https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?20599-How-to-change-the-alternator&highlight=change+alternator) which seems to be pretty good in the articles section

Bobby~d - thanks for the information on the alternator powers and with the car based in Ireland I think the 100Amp one should be fine as (although it rains a lot!) it doesn't get super cold

Dom B - thanks for the advice - the mechanic said the alternator was working and then not when I came to pick up the car - so might be the slow degradation of the rectifier as you say. For the FTO one do you have a part number at all - just to ensure I get the right one as that sounds like a potentially great route to go :thumbsup:

[Dom B]

I will have a look over getting weekend and let you know. Also the change the alternator thread is excellent. It is like a puzzle but when you lower the engine that inch and rotate the alternator is pops out with no stress at all. It’s a bit like putting a cv joint together, when you have done it once it’s easy.

[Judder]

Have you checked the 100amp alternator fuse?

One time my alternate was replaced and the problem was the fuse.....

Thanks Piers - I just re-read your post and noted your reference to 100A fuse so no I definitely didn't test that one as I only tested the normal 'blade' fuses in the fuse box

Is it the Blue or Yellow one as per this video here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLjEFTMNOFM)?

If so it could well be that which would make it an even easier fix!

Many thanks

[Piers1989]

Thanks Piers - I just re-read your post and noted your reference to 100A fuse so no I definitely didn't test that one as I only tested the normal 'blade' fuses in the fuse box

Is it the Blue or Yellow one as per this video here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLjEFTMNOFM)?

If so it could well be that which would make it an even easier fix!

Many thanks

I'm pretty sure it was the blue one.
It was done by the garage but I had to source the fuse.

I think they had a REAL hard time getting it out though, had to tear it to pieces.

[Judder]

Thanks again for the help with this everyone

I've ordered a 100A blue fuse and a 60A yellow fuse from eBay (2.29 each off eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202091281270)) so that I can test those and found in the Workshop Manual - 16 Engine Electrical both the specification of the alternator if I need to replace it and how to simply test it with a multi-meter :2thumbsup

It looks like from the above manual that the diesel engine (4D6 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Sirius_engine)) not used in the VR-4 uses the 120A one for cold, whereas our cars I think (6A1 engine type (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_6A1_engine)) use a 85A, 12V alternator for the manual version and a 100A, 12V alternator for the automatic version

Learning as I go hopefully /YMaster

80280

80281

[Bobby~d]

Glad that you’re getting there with your problem. Nice additional info there for which vehicle/engines the correct alternator is for.