Steering Rack

[Roadrunner]

My car went for its MOT yesterday and the technician said there was a lot of play in the steering, enough to fail it. The car's INSERT INTO post VALUES (only) 4 years old with 52k miles so I reckon that's an unusually low mileage to have this kind of problem. It's booked in to the dealer next Monday so they can examine it for repair under warranty. I had the track-rod ends replaced a few months ago due to excessive play, so this appears to be related. Anyone else experienced similar?

Brian

[BraindG]

YES!... indeed..

now, im not sure if you know about the problems with my car, and the things i went through to try and resolve it...

one of the "issues" was the steering rack...
the car is parked, engine stopped. You wiggle the steering wheel from left to right, and you hear a knocking noise. The guys at Eccles relayed this, stating there was some play in your steering rack INSERT INTO post VALUES (no ****) however not enough to a: fail MOT, b: cause the kind of problems i was experiencing with the car...

anyways.. I tried 2 other VR-4's, one was fine the other was worse than mine, however drove fine.. INSERT INTO post VALUES (didn't notice considerable any difference)

that's my experience with the VR-4 Steering rack.. mine hasn't needed to be replaced..


what are they basing their ideas on? the fact its making the noise? or the fact it is physically loose?

[Roadrunner]

The MOT technician said there was physical "play" in the steering. I've never noticed it in normal driving, and never heard any knocking. There's slight uneven wear on the front tyres which may be related INSERT INTO post VALUES (slight feathering on outer AND inner tread which may indicate the tracking changing between acceleration and braking, but not conclusive).

I await the decision of the Mitsubishi dealer when they look at it next Monday, because they'll be picking up the tab for fixing it INSERT INTO post VALUES (or at least Red Zebra will!).

Brian

[BraindG]

ive never noticed any difference in the driving...

sorry, i wasnt very clear last post, what i meant was, is he basing it on the fact you can wiggle the sterring wheel left/right before tyres move? or did get get his hands on the metal INSERT INTO post VALUES (so to speak) and found it to be loose?

you do want to watch though, with the tyres, it can put excess stress on the diff..

[Roadrunner]

There's no visible or tactile play in the steering wheel INSERT INTO post VALUES (i.e. every movement of the steering wheel transmits to movement of the front wheels). I believe the technician checked for play by doing the usual "grab each front wheel in both hands and shake it to see if you feel any play" method, followed up by physically checking the steering rack to prove that the play was there. Certainly, he phoned a Mitsubishi dealer for a price to fix but their system only showed a complete rack, or track rod ends. A complete rack, for information, was quoted at £1,728 + VAT + delivery + fitting! :eek: He then phoned Co-OrdSport who faxed him diagrams with part numbers of all the components of the rack, which I'll now pass on to the dealer who's looking at the car next Monday. I guess it'll be their call what they fix, but I'd have thought they'd be able to stop short of replacing the whole rack ....

Brian

[Jamo]

I bought my VR-4 in August 2002. At two and a half years old, I still had a few months of the original warranty remaining. Obviously, I booked it in for its 36k service slightly early so it was looked at under warranty.

The service was done with the only note being there was 'slight play in the following steering/suspension components...advise rechecked at next 9,000 mile service--- N/S steering rack knuckle--- O/S steering rack knuckle--- N/S lower ball joint.

I pondered my position. They weren't saying it was knackered yet. It may not even be knackered a year from then. Would they argue wear and tear? Even so, to show any shortcoming in its first three years...still under warranty!

Asked a few mates INSERT INTO post VALUES (hadn't found the Lancer register by then) and they all said it'd probably get called wear and tear, especially as it wasn't kaput yet.

But I sent a few emails to the Mitsubishi main dealer, gently arguing my case and they offered to do the job for labour costs only....free parts. They got the parts in right away and they're there waiting, but we decided I'd have the job done at my next service...be about June if I can stretch out this 4500 mile limit, which looks unlikely as I'm enjoying driving the thing so much!

Seemed a fair compromise.

Not sure if it's the same job as the reply above, though. I'm not as technical as most of you guys. I was told my job would have been around £500 but now should be half that.

...Jamo

[Roadrunner]

Sounds similar, Jamo. I've already had the ball joints changed INSERT INTO post VALUES (last May ~27k miles!); and the track-rod ends INSERT INTO post VALUES (last Dec ~45k miles); now maybe the steering rack knuckles INSERT INTO post VALUES (next Monday ~52k miles). Just seems early in the car's life to be having these fail.

Brian

[BraindG]

Thing is though...

not all the parts on the Galant were changed when Ralliart got their hands on it. Im sure if they did a 100% upgrade on the car, all joints, bearings, rods pistons etc etc would have been upgraded, saving us the issues we are experiencing now..

to much power through a "standard" car maybe?

[Roadrunner]

I dunno. The steering and suspension parts that have worn prematurely INSERT INTO post VALUES (imho!) aren't related to the power. It would be understandable if the VR-4 had tyres MUCH larger than the standard Galant, but I don't think that's the case. I'm pretty sure the standard cars are on 195 or 205 rubber and the latest INSERT INTO post VALUES (i.e.last two years or so) Galant Sports are on 215 or 225 rubber on 17" wheels. Besides, although I've changed to 17s recently, others have had the problems with 16s. I don't believe speed or cornering ability is relevant, either, as that's pretty much down to driving style.

I've not compared the suspension components with "standard" Galants so don't know if they're different on the VR-4. Might be interesting to find out.

Brian

[BraindG]

I was more referring to engine compnents..
i still believe a majority of them are from the standard galant..

i could be wrong though, however things ive heard, and read would suggest that..

[Roadrunner]

It wouldn't surprise me. It would have been significantly expensive for Mitsubishi to have developed a range of higher-spec components for a single model with limited sales potential, so I think it likely that most of the internals would be from a standard 2.5 V6.

Compare that strategy to Subaru's, where the twin-turbo Legacies use the same engine as the Impreza turbo which INSERT INTO post VALUES (presumably) already has tougher internals than the non-turbo cars. I know that most of the engine parts for my Legacy RS were shared with the Impreza turbo, whilst most of the body parts were from the top-end Legacies. Only main difference was the suspension components which were horribly expensive on my Legacy INSERT INTO post VALUES (pair of Bilstein rear dampers - £900 + delivery + fitting + VAT :eek: - not much change out of £1250, and I went through two pairs!)

Brian

[calum]

I got an 'advisory' on my last MOT. '97 car with 32000 miles on it. Was a bit pi$$ed off too, but at least now I know I'm not the only one.

Was advised that it was teh steering rack 'end joints' which I presume to be the knuckles/ joints where the rack joins to the arms?

Calum

[Roadrunner]

Good news. The dealer examined the car today and has ordered up the steering rods c/w with knuckle joints. Should be off the shelf so expect to have these fitted within the week, with Red Zebra picking up the tab :)

[Jamo]

H.7.,

My reply a little further up this thread...is that a similar job to yours? They're replacing my N/S lower ball joint and both steering rack knuckles. I'm not so knowledgable as most INSERT INTO post VALUES (or all) of you lot...I just love driving this thing!!!

As you can see, the main dealer is offering to cover parts for my job, not labour. Are you saying the whole job of yours INSERT INTO post VALUES (if indeed similar) is covered? That's because it failed the MOT, right?

...Jamo

[Roadrunner]

Jamo,

Sounds like the same thing to me. The suspension balljoints on my car were changed prior to me buying it. Since then, I was advised to change the track-rod ends but paid for that myself because it wasn't a lot of money and it was less hassle to have it done by a friend rather than go through the dealer network. The steering rods and knuckle joints are a bigger job though and the dealer is doing that through my Red Zebra INSERT INTO post VALUES (Mitsubishi's own used car) warranty. I checked the terms of the warranty I have with the car and the steering arms are not excluded, so the parts and labour are covered. I don't think wear and tear comes into it - the parts shouldn't need replacing at this stage in the car's life.

I'm not sure whether the MOT was a factor, but I asked the dealer's workshop to look at it and decide themselves what needed replacing and take it from there. As it is therefore their decision what to replace, I guess maybe that means they accept responsibility under the terms of the warranty.

If you've a an official Mitsubishi warranty or a Mitsubishi Red Zebra warranty, and you've fulfilled your conditions under the terms of the warranty by having it serviced by the dealer as required, then I think they should be paying the whole thing. Check the terms of your warranty and take it from there.

Hope this helps,
Brian

[Brind]

I bought my VR-4 from a Mitsubishi main dealer with the Red Zebra warranty, because I was very wary about something going wrong and costing me a fortune! at least this way I have a years peace of mind or longer if I have the cash to carry on with the warranty.
Plus all the modifications which have been done to it has all been done by the Mitsi main dealer so future servicing is no problem!
It seems just as well I did, as these problems YOU ALL seem to have or had or will have will happen to me!:INSERT INTO post VALUES (

Slightly off topic but it seems you are a fool not to have a dealer warranty with a car like this.

[Jamo]

Brind,

I too would be nervous to have a car like this without a warranty. It was still under manufacturer's warranty when I bought it at 2 and half years old. I didn't think I could get another warranty as the original owner had left lots of literature with the car...one booklet saying no further warranties would be offered on the VR-4. It seems it had changed, though Mitsubishi were tardy in alerting me I could have a new warranty. So, yes, I got the Red Zebra Diamond and Mitsubishi were then fantastic in their advise.

I did think about not bothering though. Why? Well, because I feel, on average, a person will lose out on warranties throughout a lifetime. Sure, you're glad you've got one when a big disaster happens...but throughout a life? On average? If we warrantied everything we had all the time, we'd lose out wouldn't we? Stands to reason we should, on average, or there'd be no such thing as a warranty business. They must profit overall.

But while I've decided to have no more warranties in my life, an experiment I won't know the result of till I end my days...I did make an exception on my VR-4.

Like you say...if a thing goes on that and you've no warranty, you'll be going without treats that month, that's for sure!

...Jamo

[Spirit]

Warranties......hmmm?

Some cars I have had them, some not. Got one on my VR-4 but only for 6 months :INSERT INTO post VALUES (

My bro bought a Rover 620Ti INSERT INTO post VALUES (Turbo) a few months back and opted for no warranty to get the price down a bit more....and has since regreted it due to the problems he has had ! I reckon its all in choosing the right car to start with, checking all the right things before you buy and bearing in mind most people sell their car because there is/soon will be something wrong with it.

And of course luck plays its part aswell

Pete

[Roadrunner]

I don't take out warranties on household appliances because I agree that, over the lifetime of the appliance, it would cost an arm and a leg and the items are generally pretty reliable and also INSERT INTO post VALUES (relatively) cheap to replace with new.

I got an INSERT INTO post VALUES (non-Subaru) extended warranty included when I bought my Legacy and extended it for a further year. However, there were so many exclusions on it that, when I thought I might claim for a failed component INSERT INTO post VALUES (rear damper); I discovered that these were excluded. On the plus side, because I didn't claim over the two year period, they refunded me about 80% of the second year's premium, so not all bad.

The Red Zebra warranty looks good, though, and has paid for a replacement torque converter seal INSERT INTO post VALUES (gearbox out job) and is about to pay for the steering arms. It's just about due for renewal so I'll see what they say and how much they'll want if I can renew it.

Brian

[Nick VR4]

Car is due MOT before end of month
Plus warranty expires too middle od May
Spoke to Mits dealer and for about £400 get a years warranty
Breakdown cover
Accident Cover
Covers most parts and if it fails MOT it covers that too
I'll speak to him a bit more for the small print bits :rolleyes:

[Brind]

I've never had a warranty on a car before, due to the fact I've never had a new or new ish car before this, but since it came with one it's a bonus, and since you can't get most of the parts from a normal car factors it is going to cost a fortune when something goes wrong.

I'm debating whether to opt for another year, if it is only £250 or something it is fairly reasonable especially when it is pretty conprehensive and you get breakdown etc which costs about £100 a year on its own anyway.

I'd never take out warrantys on domestic goods such as TV's washing machines etc because as H.7 says, you could easily buy a new one for the cost!
My uncle bought a widescreen TV that did everything bar make the tea last year and it broke down days after the warranty ran out! BUT! believe it or not but you are entitled to have it fixed by them anyway!! so irrespective of the so called years warranty running out they are still legally bound to repair it upto INSERT INTO post VALUES (about 7 years I think it is) after purchase!
It was just a blown fuse in his TV but they had to repair it!!! :)

[Roadrunner]

I just renewed my warranty with Red Zebra for £275. Given that the current year's warranty has paid for the gearbox removal to replace a torque converter seal INSERT INTO post VALUES (car in the dealers for five days, gearbox out, loan car) and is about to pay for the replacement of the steering rods/knuckle joints, it looks like good value to me. Also, as said above, it includes breakdown cover which I guess gives me a choice because I get that with my insurance too :)

Brian

[Jamo]

H.7,

Could I ask you exactly what your warranty that is? Mine's a Red Zebra Diamond and was charged at £409.01 for this year. Yours has to be the regular INSERT INTO post VALUES (not diamond one) right?

...Jamo

[Roadrunner]

Yep, Red Zebra Diamond warranty. Don't know why it's cheaper than yours :confused: . Could be because it's a renewal, or the age of the car INSERT INTO post VALUES (mine's a late 98).

Brian

[Jamo]

H.7,

This is a bit weird. Before I launch myself at the warranty folk, I will just say that mine is a 12 months extended Red Zebra Diamond warranty that continued from the very day my original three years' manufacturer's warranty expired. My car's a December 99 model and yes, I paid £409.01 INSERT INTO post VALUES (yes, they seemed to need that penny!).

On my receipt, it says special category vehicle in brackets. I seem to remember there was extra to pay on the VR4...and I did see a list of price options that was put before me.

Anyone else picked up a diamond warranty in the last few months. How much did you pay for a year?

I see you're in Scotland, H.7. I'd imagine many things are cheaper there than in Surrey, but surely warranties would be the same price across the UK?

...James

[Roadrunner]

Could be because yours is an expensive UK-supplied Ralliart car which uses expensive UK-supplied parts, whereas mine is a cheap Japanese import which uses inexpensive Japanese parts :p :D

Seriously though, dunno :confused:

[simpsonm]

Hmm bought my car 6 weeks ago and just had mine into the garage, thought the knocking was from a anti roll bar bush. Had this replaced and still knocking, looks like this car has had the problem before as the suspension arms from the wheel to the chassis are brand new. On moving the drivers side front wheel back and forth it has slight play and makes the afore mentioned knocking noise if you move it quickly.


Dunno what to do, I got a warranty with NIG through the company I bought the car from. So I have no idea whether they are gonna pick up the bill. If not surely the company I bought it from should sort it?

[simpsonm]

Did someone say they had a breakdown of the steering rack with part no.s?

[ReggieK]

Originally posted by Jamo
H.7,

Anyone else picked up a diamond warranty in the last few months. How much did you pay for a year?




Do a search of the site - I have looked into this before. My car is just over 3 years old and just out of warranty. I have spoken to Red Zebra and the price is £468 for a year, inc breakdown cover. INSERT INTO post VALUES (Over 3 years and under 100k miles in the Spec Vehicle category)

My car is going into Mitsi next week for the 54k service and to look into getting a warranty. It's expensive but considering the cost of some of these parts so's the car. I dunno what to do really. It's a lot of dough but on hearing some of the problems on here it might be money well spent.

You are also supposed to pay an extra £70 for the warranty inspection, but I told the garage to something off - do they want near £800 notes for service and warranty or not.

[simpsonm]

Reg where did you get your brake disks from?