Air filter cold feed

[Brind]

I was looking at everyones car at J.A.E. and looking at ways people had achieved a cold air feed to their induction kits.

A lot of the cars I had seen seemed to have plenty of room even though most of their bays were filled up, at least if that was the case their filters were at the front and at least shielded pretty well as standard.
The battery relocation was an excellent thought although it requires long heavy cables run to the back, it is pretty simple to do.
Even those with big batteries had plenty of room, it seems it is just us with this problem.
Ideas were chucked around about using a smaller battery which is fine.. until you have cold weather and it doesn't have the power to start the car or you leave a little 10 watt interior light on for 20 minutes the battery would go flat.
I've got a huge battery in my car and we looked at ways of possibly rotating it but it is still too big, so I'm looking into moving the battery to the boot.

Just thought I'd post this picture as it made me laugh, caught it on camera at J.A.E. I can't believe it starts this car, and looking at the rest of the car, it had also been modified quite a bit.. christ knows how this battery can start the engine..:D

It's a Nissan S13 200SX

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mark.brindley1/pictures/DSCF0041%20copy.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mark.brindley1/pictures/DSCF0040%20copy.jpg

[BraindG]

:D
nice battery..

yup, i think ive made up my mind - mines going in the boot aswell.. on the left side.. either induction is going there, or like rhys's car, into the bumper... either way, the battery has to go in the boot to get the space

[Spirit]

Yeah my bro is doing this with his Rover 620Ti - gonna see how he gets on but seems fairly simple - wonder if it affects your insurance as a mod ???

Pete

[zedy1]

make sure it is well secure or rear impact INSERT INTO post VALUES (in barrys case roundabouts) could have battery acid all over. as you guys know i have mine in the boot but its a optima battery fully sealed.

[Brind]

I was thinking about removing the existing battery cradle and installing that in the boot and then box it up.

Where is the best place to buy battery cable thick enough to supply the starter motor, fuel pump etc.
I'm not interested in fancy OFC silver plated cable just high current stranded thick stuff?

[Spirit]

Think you can get it in ****fords INSERT INTO post VALUES (sorry Halfords)

Pete

[Brind]

*Shudder* you said Halfords. :eek: :D

[Spirit]

I'm sorry

[/activate hold head in shame mode]

[Spirit]

Mark

You got any further on with this ?

Pete

[Brind]

Haven't had the time.. it's still on my mind to do, just thinking of the best way to do it..
It's so hard that we just haven't quite got the room without doing something drastic. :INSERT INTO post VALUES (

[Spirit]

I know what you mean mate - time is always difficult and these needs a lot of thought and potentially money to move battery/design/make something - must be a company out there who could do something for us :Ponder:

[Roadrunner]

BraindG wrote:
on the left side.. either induction is going there, or like rhys's car, into the bumper
I'd be wary of lowering the height at which you draw the cold air feed. Original Golf GTIs had the feed behind the bumper and were prone to hydraulicking INSERT INTO post VALUES (sp?) the engine going through deep puddles :INSERT INTO post VALUES ( . Very expensive to fix on the Golf, doesn't bear thinking about on the VR-4 :eek: .

Brian

[BraindG]

I have been considering this, and im just going to move the battery to the boot, and place the filter in that space, then bring up some cold air feeds from the bumper.. think this is the best option..

[zedy1]

he is right

[Brind]

This is RichW's from the MLR forum EVO website: http://www.lancermods.co.uk/

He has moved his battery but he had enough space to just move it out the way without having to install the battery in the boot.
He has shown the steps he took to move his battery, it's an EVO so it obviously doesn't totally relate but the fact he moved it and made a base for it is still a universal idea.
He has moved the filter in place of where the battery was and supplied the area with a cold air feed, he has brought the feed up from the ground which could potentially drink any water but the end of the feed isn't directed at the filter but just underneith so if water was to shoot up the pipe it wouldn't effect the filter.
He has since added more feeds which are directed at the filter which I don't think is a very good idea if the car is driven in rain, he is now changing the idea once more with a K&N but he found better results from the HKS I believe but whatever he decides..
Here is the link to the cold air feed section but you can find it easy enough anyway. http://www.agent.o.clara.net/coldairfeed/coldairfeed.htm

Here is the picture where the feed isn't directed at the filter. http://www.agent.o.clara.net/coldairfeed/coldair3.JPG

I've been getting pictures of lots of cars trying to figure out the best way to do ours.. it's just the time involved in doing it.

[Brind]

Cheapest way to buy decent flexable high amperage cable is to use welding cable from any welders shop.

Check this for example: http://www.johndavies.co.uk/newweldingcablesandfittings.htm

We have short 10mm cable coming from the battery so if you were too run a longer lengh it's probably best to up that to the next size of 16mm and then make several earth joints on the way back to give the same effect as the additinal bonding straps if you like, two jobs in one.:)

[pjjohnson]

What is that funnel shaped thing INSERT INTO post VALUES ( sorry no camera) that runs into the airbox, where do you think that it takes its air from. Couldn't that be modified to provide a cold air feed - or does it do that already ?

I've seen on prefacelift models a 'mini-grill' INSERT INTO post VALUES (above the VR4 badge in the grill) with about 10 holes which allows air to get behind the grill. It seems as though it would then feed through more cut outs up into the funnel and into the air filter when the bonnet is down.

On my post facelift model there is no 'mini-grill', so air can't get in that way.

[Brind]

Stealing pictures of Petes car again. ;) :D

Most of us have kept that plastic feed from the original air box and just removed the box itself, so the funnel is still directed at it, but the filter still gets very hot as it isn't shielded from the engine, whereas if it was in place of the battery it would be far better, a simple shield around the filter may halp a little but it will still soak up way too much heat..
Mine hasn't got the original air feed as it was done before I got the car, so I'm even worse off.

http://www.clubvr4.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?s=&time=&postid=727

[Spirit]

To be honest I am not really sure we are gonna get much better than this in the long run :INSERT INTO post VALUES (

[calum]

What about a gel filled, sealed battery to go under the passenger seat INSERT INTO post VALUES (or elsewhere) like this?
http://www.st205.net/techinfo/battrelocate.htm

Calum

[Brind]

The problem with placing the batttery under the seat is the hassle if you want to remove the battery INSERT INTO post VALUES (possibly); jump start the car or others service time INSERT INTO post VALUES (if you don't do it yourself) the guy at the garage telling you to p*ss off it's too much hassle, again it is still pretty small and when the cold weather comes it's gonna struggle.
I'd prefer to bung it in the boot as you can get at it easy enough and it won't require the mechanic to use too much brain power.. that is in theory.
Also cheaper not too buy a new battery, if the existing battery moves to the boot it may be possible to use the exisiting battery cradle too, shouldn't be too hard to remove even if it's spot welded on.

Otherway is too wrap a shield around the filter and supply it with as much cold air as possible.. which is again hard as the battery sits on top of the only decent place to draw it from.

I don't have a funnel so anything will be beneficial to me.:)

[Brind]

Also I read which Rys posted a while back, different lengh pipes between the filter and the sensor create different power curves, the 600mm tube was the best choice overall.

[Nick VR4]

Originally posted by spirit979
To be honest I am not really sure we are gonna get much better than this in the long run :INSERT INTO post VALUES (

Jussuss guy I really think this is getting OTT

The amount of work ££££ and time you would be better getting a EVO style bonnet and push that air into the air filter from the bonnet dam
Or use a bit of tubbing from the lower air vent to get get more air to the filter

[Brind]

Or use a bit of tubbing from the lower air vent to get more air to the filter
If only that was simple..:INSERT INTO post VALUES (


The amount of work ££££ and time you would be better getting a EVO style bonnet and push that air into the air filter from the bonnet dam

Dayem that would look gross on these cars, you'd have to stop the rain coming through it too.
Although much more beneficial than any other method.:)

[Brind]

Went into B&Q today to get some bits INSERT INTO post VALUES (not car related) and whilst wondering around I came across the ventilation section.
I've seen the cheapy plastic hose which is used for bathroom fans, tumble dryers etc, plus they have a cheapy aluminuim very flexable hose too, neither would look good under the bonnet and neither would retain their shape for very long.

But there it was.. the ideal stuff to experiment with INSERT INTO post VALUES (must be new in as I haven't seen it there before) it comes in two sizes at least that's what they have to offer.
I went for the larger of the two.

The stuff I used is 5 inch semi rigid aluminuim hose made by Marley.
It's extendable to 3 metres and costs less than a fiver! it can be bent into any shape and it will stay there and can be cut with just any scissors.

Let it be known I had no ducting what so ever so my filter although sounded good probably didn't do a thing.
So anything to me would help.

It took less than 10 minutes to mock up what I have, may not be the prettiest thing I'm sure it will help!
I measured roughly how long I wanted it to be and then put a subtle bend in it while placing into place, it sat there a treat.
I then slowly squashed the end to produce a kind of funnel so the bonnet would shut okay, took a rough guess at the size and then shut the bonnet down to produce the shape.
It made a few little creases but nothing major.
It squished the end a little too much and closed the end so I trimmed the end and opened the funnel again and then shut the bonnet again, this time perfect.
Tarted it up a little and this is what I've acheived:

[Brind]

2

[Brind]

3

[Brind]

4

[SGHOM]

great idea Brind ! perhaps you could try City Electrical Factors, or a decent plumbers merchant for better quality ducting ? I think City's may do it in rectangular ??? rather than squashing round ducting ?? I'll ask tomorrow.

[Brind]

The square ducting would be great for the funnel but the round looks good flowing up to the filter..

It's quite thick and I'm sure the shape will stay, if it doesn't I still have over 2 meters left to play with. :D
Great to see what you can find out though.

I normally use TLC for my electrical stuff but they don't have much in the way of ducting, I've vagualy been looking around for something like this.

I'm thinking of trying some kind of shield around the filter too but I've got to somehow stop the engine bay looking ****e and maxpowerish.

Certainly worth a try anyway if anyone wants a little play, costs less than a fiver and you get 3 chances to f**k it up! :D

[zedy1]

good thinking mark. goes well with the colour of the car too :D :D :D

[SGHOM]

citys do "ducting adaptors" they are around 5" or 6" long, in plastic, at one end it's 4" x 2" rectangular, [ different sizes available. ] that would fit under the bonnet lip. & screw down, then it opens out to 4" round to fit your ducting straight on to it !!! I think they are online now, at www.cef.co.uk.

[Brind]

Never thought of that Zed! :D

Actually you're right, a purpose made round to square funnel attached to the end may look much better.
May need a small amount of cutting but it may look much better. :)
Excellent.. :wiggle: saves ponsing about with the battery if it works well enough, it's gotta be better than before anyway.

[Spirit]

Damn good idea Mark - be sure to keep us posted on how you get on over the next few days or so with regards to the shape etc

[LOMY]

Looks good that Brind. Definitely an improvement on the original !

[Brind]

I haven't driven the car yet so no idea if it has improved things, can't see why it wouldn't if only a little bit.
It does actuallly look quite good, pictures don't do it justice, but the funnel piece could do with a bit more time on to make it neater but I was excited and couldn't wait to take pictures :D I could make it alot smoother as it's so easy to shape and it stays where you put it too.
I think it could do with some kind of round to square adapter though.. as that bit does look quite amateurish even though it's functional.

Took me less than 10 minutes and it was the first attempt so I'm sure I could improve it slightly. :)

[zedy1]

mark. good sunny day tommorrow so try your best a go for it

[banjo]

All you need to do now is find a way to direct the cold air from the A/C through the duct and there you go! INSERT INTO post VALUES (only joking!)

[BraindG]

but a cunning plan none the less :D

[zedy1]

big 5" holr through the bulkhead :D :D :D

[Brind]

Haven't tried the car yet, but will tomorrow, I'll report if it has made any difference.

There was a question on the MLR site about using using A/C to cool the inlet temperatures around the induction filter.
Seemed a good idea at first, as it's very cold but that doesn't necessarily mean the air is dense and full of oxygen though, plus the power the A/C takes from the engine while running, the benfits you you'd gain from the filter would be negligible.

Nitrous Oxide is the best form of induction, shame it voids warranty and you can't get insurance for road use INSERT INTO post VALUES (without a fight). :INSERT INTO post VALUES (

[Brind]

.....Update.

It appears to work! slightly better responce but I could be fooling myself.
Just opened the bonnet after 15 minute drive back from the pub, never really gave it any but I was driving a constant 80mph INSERT INTO post VALUES (motorway) and a couple of 30's.
Anyway.. opened the bonnet and damn it was bloody hot! :eek: saying hot it was as hot as everything else under there including the filter.
The outer of the duct was very hot but when I put my hand up it ooh err it was actually very cool!! :cool: so chances are it must have been working fine especially for the inside to be cool like it was and the outer was SO hot! I don't know how the filter fits INSERT INTO post VALUES (left and right movement) but it is slightly pi**ed, I guess to fit with the existing air box, if I can adjust it so it's square I may get a better angle with my ducting and improve it slightly, I'll have a look tomorrow.

Bottom line..
It obviously works.
Defo needs a shield of some sort too as when stationary the heat comes back with a vengeance.. I did run the car for a few seconds though before shutting off...
If it has improved things that much, I am not going to move the battery if I only gain an extra 2bhp.
Again.. surprisingly cool inside the ducting even though the outer was red hot! :)

[Simon]

Its what you been waiting for............................................... ......:Ponder:

[Simon]

Overall picture. The pipe goes down behing the headlight unit, inbetween the rad and the grille.:cool1:

[Simon]

side of bat'

[Simon]

from above

[Simon]

looking towards the front

[Simon]

take the front grille off to gain access

[Simon]

looking up from the grille

[Simon]

PS the state of my tyres after CC....slight "bobbling" Hope the above helps....if u need more info just post

[Brind]

Spot on mate! :)

Is the pipe too short to get any closer to the filter or did you leave it at that distance to enable the air to flow around?

Do the red funnels come off so you can fit if through the grille etc or did you cut it anyway? as I can see there is a jubilee clip around it.

Did you go down point A or point B, INSERT INTO post VALUES (in front of those skinny pipes or behind)?

Cheers mate. :cool:

[Brind]

Scrap the last bit I can see where the pipe went down. :rolleyes: :D

[Simon]

The pipe is only just long enough and can go closer to the filter.........but ive left the gap to let the air flow and just incase i go through water its less likely to make contact to the filter and into the engine.

The end caps come off...you can get silver, blue and red.

I took out the heat shield thing for the battery to give more room.

I cut the bumper grille with a knife etc and pushed the endcap through. The clip is there just to apply pressure so th eend cap wont "fall off".:)

[Brind]

Excellent. :)

I'll get one the weekend and do the same.. you won't be unique anymore. ;) :D

I'm gonna get a thermometer too and do a few tests without a feed then with the Pipercross and then with my 5 inch ally tubing, depending on room I may somehow intergrate both ideas somehow.. hopefully making the finished product look pretty too.

It's great we can get a feed from the front grille though! :cool:

[Simon]

Looks cool and also does a job......I'll name this cold air feed upgrade.....SIDCO..INSERT INTO post VALUES (Simons Ideas Dont Come Often).....not long until SIDCO II!!!!!!!!!!!:D

[Brind]

Are you going to copyright these SIDCO's ? :D

[Simon]

Copyright is set to start at midnight Friday. After then everyone will have to buy through me at £80 a time:eek: INSERT INTO post VALUES (or just go to Halfords:rolleyes: and buy one for £20:D )

Dont wait until saturday....it'll cost too much:D :D

[Brind]

LOL! :D

[Brind]

I think I'm gonna be paying you for copyright Simon. ;)
Went to Halfords today to find they had none in any colour, so I asked if they could search other places, there is a closer one near me so they phoned and confirmed they only had the other colours not the red. :INSERT INTO post VALUES (
New batch in on Thursday, apparently.

[Brind]

I wanted to know what temperatures the filter is sucking in so I bought a thermometer come clock from Halfords INSERT INTO post VALUES (tried Maplin but they had buggerall).

I opened the filter and dangled the little sensor inside so it hangs roughly central, then I closed the filter again and ran the wire out of the engine bay and tuck the wire under the seam where the wing fits on then up and out and run through the other seam where the door meets the roof bar, you can get it right inside so you cannot see the wire at all from the outside.
It's just sitting by the clock at the moment.

As soon as I got in the car the reading was up around 45c, the engine had been stopped for about 15 minutes.

Started the engine and sat there watching the temp go up, had the air con off so it didn't start the fan up.

Left it for about 5 minutes and it rose to 60c, it was still creeping but ever so slowly.

Started to drive and it dropped to 50- in no time.

I found it would roughly hang around 33c when you hit traffic but it does rise quickly, upto 40 if not moving for about 2 minutes.

Drove back from Halfords on the motorway and it dropped to a nicer 29c, again it was still dropping but VERY slowly, I'd guess 29-33c on average would be the temperatures the filter is sucking.

This is of course using my 5 inch ducting from the front, haven't tried the results without it yet as it started to spit with rain. :rolleyes:

[Simon]

it will be interesting to see what temperature it drops to using SIDCO!;) I would be very surprised if it didn't

[Brind]

Soon find out when I get one.. bloody copyright! :INSERT INTO post VALUES ( :D

Any public news on the SIDCO II yet? :)

[Brind]

Managed 22c tonight! nothing was different just the temperature outside had dropped. :cool:

[zedy1]

that looks cool simon keep up the good work

[SGHOM]

63 replies to this thread, & no-one has suggested going through the roof !!! bonnet air intake . ?? forget the overheating, plasticy, DIY, make do & mend contraptions .:D why not go for a EVO type bonnet scoop to direct the air straight to the filter ?? OH NO !!................ I can feel myself becoming a ginny [ still cant spell it ] pig again !!:D :D :D

[Brind]

I think it has been mentioned in 'other' cold air feed threads. :D
Basically it would ruin the subtle looks of the car, well I think so anyway. :)

Check out the post in 'Random Pictures' I'm about to post. :cool:

[zedy1]

now weres the post

[Brind]

Possibly in this one: http://www.clubvr4.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=85

Memories...... it was before I bought the car.. :inlove:

[SGHOM]

have to disagree with you on that one mate !! I think it looks pretty good to me. I know where you're coming from, but if it has the desired effect of getting the air in clean & cold, then I may be tempted. :D It throws the understated look out of the window, but hey !!! I've had comments about the front of my car, from people who dont know them, saying it's a cross between a shark & an aston martin !!! so why not go for the kill ??:D :D

[Japmetal]

I've got a radical idea for an air intake on my 6G baby; I'm actually going to have the Driver's side headlamp surgically implanted in the bumper directly under it's current location; This should give me a HUGE [about 4"x8" rectangle] ramair scoop directly infront of my filter once I mount my battery in the boot [well, actually in the middle of the rear seat, but that's another story !]

I wouldnt recommend this on a VR4 tho ! I'm only doing it to mine because the headlamps are pretty much rectangular & it's such an old car it doesnt matter how f/*+ed up it looks. Got a mate who does bodywork so going to see him soon to iron out the details :D

[SGHOM]

drivers side headlamp implanted in the bumper ??????:nono: :nono: excuse me officer, but it's not what it seems !!! / feels collar.

[Brind]

I don't mind the small scoop on the EVO but for the sake of a bit of air I'm not tempted.
If I was REALLY concerned about air, then I wouldn't bother about the stuff we breath but ram nitrous into it. :cool: That gives a very cool effect with extra molecules of oxygen, with that who needs an induction kit.

But then insurance and warranty issues are a problem.:rolleyes:

[Japmetal]

Originally posted by interlec
drivers side headlamp implanted in the bumper ??????:nono: :nono: excuse me officer, but it's not what it seems !!! / feels collar.

I work for an MOT-approved garage so I'm busy checking on the legality of it atm [well, when I'm in work I am !] and so far as I can see there shouldnt be a problem so long as the beam lins up properly [which it will, since I'm getting it done properly & not in the backyard with a hacksaw !]

[SGHOM]

all your "blue peter" efforts with plastic tubes & tin flexy things, & thermometers etc, & the answer is a hole in the bonnet to let nature provide you with what you need / want. :D

[Brind]

Originally posted by interlec
thermometers etc, & the answer is a hole in the bonnet to let nature provide you with what you need / want. :D


I like my thermometer, shut up!!! :D :D :D
Actually it is quite interesting watching it go up and down.

[Spirit]

Originally posted by Brind
IActually it is quite interesting watching it go up and down.

Are we still talking about the thermometer ? LOL

[Brind]

LOL!

[Simon]

SIDCO's now available at £79.95 inc postage:D If i wasn't worried about costs and the final finish of the evo bonnet i WOULD have one....but if you look at Max Power pictures thread the PTON Galant's evo bonnet....done professioanlly is already peeling around the edges...so for £20 ....i mean £79.95 for a piece of pipe you cant go wrong:)

If money was no object i think we would go for the carbon fibre bonnet with the vents in:cool1: i can dream

[Brind]

I managed to get one Monday just gone.. I finally decided on the silver one when I was confronted with "Ah.. that one only has one funnel, we have to send it back and we don't have any more" :mad: "we have blue??" didn't want blue.. how about red then as that was the original idea.. "okay sir I'll go check"... "sorry we don't have one", they said they had a blue one but I bet they bloody well wouldn't have one if I wanted it! :rolleyes: why not just say they'll check rather than convince you they have one and then say they haven't when they check.
"we can order a red one or the silver one?..." how about that one in the display case.. "Ah that's an idea.." wright I'll have it! at last............... and it is red.

Haven't tried it yet though..

The remaining cost will be forwarded to you Simon. :) *grumble grumble* :D

[Simon]

cash or cheque doesn't matter:D

[Brind]

*Puts in cheque rubbed with magnet and seals envelope with gaffa and denso tape* :D

[Japmetal]

I had an Evo vent on my last car [a 1993 Lancer, so looked pretty much like it should be there !]

It looks fine for about the first 6 weeks, then the filler starts to shrink with the constant heating & cooling and after a while the finish around the edges [ie where the filler is] goes all wrinkly & ripply.

Didnt bother me too much on my car [altho I spent alot of time trying to decide how to tidy it up, with little success] but on a VR4 I'd definately advise getting the bonnet reskinned [either in fibreglass or Carbon Fibre, whichever takes your fancy] to prevent getting this rather unattractive finish !

[Brind]

The Pipercross air feed lowered the temperature to 27.5c in similer conditions my 5 inch duct gave me 29c.

Although it took quite a while for the temperature to lower compared to the 5inch duct.

A shroud over the top of the filter is the next thing on the list because you don't have to be stopped long before the temperature increases by a huge amount!

My pipercross pipe isn't cut into the lower grille but sitting behind it looking out.

[Wodjno]

are these any good for ducting ??

[Brind]

Originally posted by WODJNO
are these any good for ducting ??

Ah luckily I saw your other thread before this one.. :)

You mean the ducting you posted in this thread? http://www.clubvr4.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1451 I replied to that post also.
I wouldn't use that type of plastic under the bonnet but the similer aluminium version would be fine.

[Wodjno]

ok thanks for that .. it was just an idea .. was reading the posts about ducting and these ducts sprang to mind .. new to this game .. but i think i'm gonna learn pretty quick .. thanks again .. ps thanks 4 the insurance number too .. :)

[Brind]

After today INSERT INTO post VALUES (Santa Pod) I've realised just how much we need something to cover these filters!!!
I have a thermometer hanging behind the foam filter so when the engine is sucking air I can tell exactly what temperature it is sucking in.
The temperature gauge has a maximum range of 70oC fraction higher results is just a msg "HI".
Sitting in the line waiting to get into Pod the temperature raised considerably!! all of a sudden, seemed odd but it did this when the heater was turned on inside the car, before long it showed "HI". :Cry1: first time I've seen that!!
However also waiting inline to run the 1/4 it raised to "HI".

So stationary for long periods.. forget it, these filters are hopeless.

BUT!

These Pipercross cold feed pipes work very well!! but only when on the move.
The thermometer inside the filter displays the exact reading as that of the air con readout.
After driving for several minutes and the engine is kicking out all of its nasty heat... the reading I was getting from the intake was aproximately 4-5oC more than the outside temperature!!
For example it was about 13oC outside today and my filter was sucking 17oC.
As soon as you stop it does rise fairly quickly but it soon drops again.
The colder it is, it's surprising just how much more responsive the car feels.
Upto about 30-35 it isn't too bad but when you are sucking 70oC it isn't all that great, could account for lower times at the Pod INSERT INTO post VALUES ( ;) ;) any excuse) but then, BigDave lost 15bhp because heat effecting his induction.

[Wodjno]

has anbody played around with mounting an aftermarket air feed in the original airbox .. thus proteting it from the engine heat .. with maybe some added heat insulation to the original box..
plus a couple of extra 1inch holes drilled in the air box .. !

[Brind]

I never had one in the first place :INSERT INTO post VALUES (

Interesting to know if it could fit inside?
I think many people are avoiding my ramblings on this topic now but gives me something to write and play with. :D

My new HKS filter came today.... just in time for Pod!! not :Cry1: :Cry1:
Can't believe how dirty the old one was!! new one is almost twice as bright!

[Wodjno]

the o/e box is quite large and looking at some of the filters i've senn , they might possibly fit .. i'll take some internal dimensions and send um over .. can u do some external dims of the filter ..the posts i've read on filters is that they floy a lot more air but at the expense of the under bonnet heat .. viper are now doing some mighty expensive induction kits that are now housing the fiters in a spherical box INSERT INTO post VALUES ( if that makes sense " spherical box ") Which to seems to me is only doing the same job as the oe box .. albeit with a bigger airfeed .. but im sure that can be overcome... : - )

[Brind]

It would be great if you could measure the OEM box. :)

First picture:
The Jubilee clip on the bit of pipe between the airflow meter and filter is 130mm.
I don't know where the existing one bolted on.. if you can take pictures could you take one with you filter sitting inside and one without, I've never seen inside one.

The front of the filter cage to the beginning of the flow sensor box is 140mm.

[Brind]

Showing off my new clean unsucked filter. :cool:

Smilie face option was extra. :)

[pjjohnson]

Brind - do you want the original air box to modify - I've got one you could have if you do.

[Wodjno]

heer it is .. sorry camereas a bit naff and lack of tools stopped me getting box right off, will try again at weekend.. internal dimensions are ... W 230mm , H 190mm , thicknedss of filter is approx 60mm although airbox will take a thicker filter if it is the shape like yours .. airbox bolts straight onto air-meter using the 4 bolts you have bolting it to your filter

[Wodjno]

this is the part that bolts straight onto air-meter INSERT INTO post VALUES (back of 4 bolts highlighted in blue ) internal dims are smaller than dims of your filter , but is this the only filter you can get for the VR4 ?

[Wodjno]

filter nside o/e box .. there is about another 50mm clearance from rear of filter to back of box . a round filter like yours would fit but would have to to be smaller in diameter .. thus probably not flowing as much air and probably pointless .. as is all of this .. anyway one more pic to come .. :uhoh:

[Wodjno]

this is looking into the o/e box from the cold airfeed port .. even if this isn't of any use , at least it's got me playing around with it and once you start u can't stop:D ... sorry i missed you at the POD on sunday bumped into 3 or 4 others ... had 3 runs down best of 15.7 sec .. reaction .646 . and ws infront of the the 450bhp supra at 200yds.. :lolz:

[Brind]

Wow! thanks for the pictures WODJNO! :)

The 200mm is the prefered size and listed size for the VR-4, 150mm kits can be bought though.
One of the problems would still be airflow, as you could get better performance with just a replacement performance filter to fit in the original box.
You'll lose the great sound the induction gives too.
Oh well.. :INSERT INTO post VALUES (
Thanks for the offer pjjohnson!! :) doesn't look like it would be of any use. :INSERT INTO post VALUES (

Great reaction time WODJNO!! :cool:
Did you have your foot on the brake or did you hold the handbrake?

ps the heat shield like bonsai boy has looks very good, that must be the best route to get the best performance from the filters.

[Wodjno]

oh well back to the darwing board .. reaction time came from foot on accelerator holding revs at 3000rpm INSERT INTO post VALUES ( tried it on handbrake but would't hold it ):headsc: had left foot on brake but only just .. had about 1/4 inch of my big toe on it and just let it slip off .:D and floored it :Eyecrazy: ...

[Brind]

I tried to hold the car while raising the revs and heard a nasty graunching sound, the car didn't appear to move but it sounded like the rear wheels were trying to spin..
My left foot was very hard on the brake.
The car is perminant 4wd so the rear couldn't have moved? any ideas what it could have been? sound was coming from the rear not the gearbox as far as I could tell, perhaps the diff if nothing else. :confused:

Did this in line to get on the raceway, the guy next to me heard it and looked across.

[Wodjno]

yes it is permanent 4 wheel but its also got ayc .. maybe u confused the uck out of it .. so it crunched .. i'll ask around at work .. bloke there used to be mechanic for mitsi ...:shrug: hope no damage done anyway ..

[Brind]

It really didn't sound very good.
But drove the Pod twice after without a problem, and 230miles back home after, without a problem so..:shrug:

[calum]

It'll probably have been your wheels spinning a few mm against hard held on brakes. Watch a few 300zx's or GTO's and you'll hear the same sort of thing as the wheel torques up against the brakes INSERT INTO post VALUES (and sometimes slips round a bit).

Calum

[wcur008]

Put my battery in the boot this week. Not to much effort at all, the hardest part is finding a hole through the firewall. I used 50mm welding flex which cost $60 for 6 meters (trade). The battery sits on the left side, i pulled out the floor compartment and it fits fine. A battery box cost $75 (NZ$) to avoid nasty acid everywhere. I earthed it to the back of a tail light bolt.

[kitefighter]

You could try fitting a NACA duct on the bonnet directing air just in front of the open air filter as I did. However, it does spoil the understated looks of the VR-4. Also, you have to be careful that water doesn't then get into the system through the air filter when it rains. I wish I hadn't done it now. It does make the most glorious sucking noise now though...