pre & post facelift power deficit

[d3x]

Did have a quick rummage around for this info but didn't find anything.

Seeing as the pre face lift legnum (I'm talking tiptronic here) has a power deficit of 20 bhp to the post face lift model, did they achieve this via tweaking the ECU? If so, would a post facelift ecu work in my 96 legit?

thanking you please... :inquisiti

(If I'm talking utter sh$t, then feel free to flame away!)


d

[d3x]

ok, the lack of replies is making me nervous... Either I've been really stupid, or I've got you stumped. I doubt it's the latter.

[Nick Mann]

You've got me stumped. I don't know what the differences in the ECU are. I would assume the same as you, but not sure if anyone has ever proved it. The only time I remember anyone changing it made little or no difference, but he had already got other mods, including boost.

I would guess that if you want to modify, then don't bother. Get a piggy back ECU and a boost controller.

[d3x]

hmmm, I've always had an aversion to piggy back ecu's after reading about how bad the one on the FQ 340 works:

http://www.rcdevelopments.com/fq/fq.html

There must be a direct replacement available from Japan, dam why did I give up those Japanese lessons!!! :inquisiti

[paulmc]

I think the pre-face lift runs 0.5 bar boost and post 0.7 so that would give the 20bhp. I also read that the post ecu gets rid of the flat spot, Not sure where it is as I have not found it yet :happy:

[SGHOM]

I fitted my pre with a unichip from www.johnnoblemotorsport.co.uk
That upped the power considerably !! :rolleyes4

[bernmc]

I fitted my pre with a unichip from www.johnnoblemotorsport.co.uk (http://www.johnnoblemotorsport.co.uk)
That upped the power considerably !! :rolleyes4
How many £££ derek?

[d3x]

I think the pre-face lift runs 0.5 bar boost and post 0.7 so that would give the 20bhp. I also read that the post ecu gets rid of the flat spot, Not sure where it is as I have not found it yet :happy:

So a boost controller could sort out the deficit you think..

interlec - ££££ ?¿?¿

....................enquiring minds wish to know..

[paulmc]

Yup I am going to use the Dawes Device and turn the boost up to 0.9bar any more than that and you will get a fuel cut. I have used the dawes before and it is very good for a cheap controller

[d3x]

could you define cheap? ££

[paulmc]

£30 to £50 depends where you buy. Look on Scooby net there is alway a few for sale.

[d3x]

I've always been a believer of 'you get what you pay for' and 50 quid sounds way too cheap...

But on your recommendation, I'll look'm up..

cheers matey.

[paulmc]

Yeah I do agree with that but not point spending for the sake of it either. Here is a pic of it fitted to my Evo. I ran 360bhp for around 10k no probs at all. It is the brass thing just under the dump valve

[d3x]

sweet, how hard to install? rating: easiest 1 - 10 hardest

[paulmc]

Evo about 5 because it was hard to reach, Cossie a 2 childs play.

VR4, I will let you know Thursday or Friday when I get round to fitting mine :thumbsup:

[valmes]

I told this before...

Wastegate spring strength is the only thing that makes difference in power on face lifted models...

I blown the engine my car came with, but before I did that, I was able to measure what my stock turbos were set to (0,6~0,63 bar). Bought another engine from Japan (from 97 tip model - 260 HP) and guess what? The turbos ( I mean wastegates) were set to only 0.51~0,55 bar... changed the wastegates to old ones! That did it! Back to my old HP RSM readings...

Up your boost - that's where your lost HPs are! :leer:

[paulmc]

Yes but the wastegate spring must be acted on by boost pressure, this will be from the inlet manifold or just from the compressor side of the turbo. Break into this line and put the Dawes in then play with the boost.

[d3x]

cheers guys, you've been more than helpful!

Paul, let us know how it goes! :thumbsup:

[paulmc]

Ok Dawes fitted today, Fuel cut @14ish psi :embarasse Car is quite a bit faster now. 1st 2nd 3rd is bl00dy quick. It took about 2 hours to fit, not sure exactally as I fitted a boost gauge at the same time and removed a dump valve the last guy put on.

It is not technically difficult just very awkward to get at once you have traced all the pipe work that is.

Boost set @ 13ish psi. It is quite a cold day today so it should be fine at that.

[d3x]

Sweet, any chance you could email me some pics of the install? Can't say I know what I'm doing when it comes to fixing up cars but I'm sure I can sort it out one way or another.

[paulmc]

Note all plastics etc removed, this part is easy just unscrew enough to gain access.

1st and 2nd pic Show a red tipped pipe if you follow this it goes down to a "T" piece pic 3 and 4 you will need to blank off the pipe leaving the "T" piece to the right. You only want flow in one direction, and that is down. either blank the "T" or use a straight connection here.

The pipe you are blanking off goes to the boost control valve do not disconnect the electrics to this as it will register a fault in the ecu.

You will need a longer pieces of pipe to go from the the feed which is the red tipped pipe to the bottom of the Dawes and then again from the top of the Dawes to the Straight connection or blanked "T" piece which ever you have done.

Then find a place to mount it, I have mine close the the air filter for easy access.

To adjust the dawes undo the lock nut and wind in the top for more boost.

If you need more info just give me a shout.

cheers

Paul