ECU Reset

[Brind]

Just curious if anyone knows for sure how this is done?

I know when I got my car it was running on cheapy INSERT INTO post VALUES (not that it's cheap) 95 octane fuel.
It wasn't until my ECU was reset after I took the car into the garage when I had an AYC fault did I realise I was lacking power due to the engine going into safe mode.

Been looking around to find out how it can be done.
I always thought, disconnecting the battery for a period of time will do it, but now I'm unsure because I can't find the exact time period needed before it resets I guess eventually it would.
I went onto *cough* Scoobynet just to see what they get up to and noticed several posts concerning ECU reseting, for them to reset theirs a diognostic tool has to be plugged in which in turn resets the ECU, obviously we have a different car and manufacturer but all the same, it could still be the same for us... since my car was plugged into a diagnostic tool when the AYC was checked which consequently reset my ECU.

The main reason I ask this is because I got caught out yesterday when my local garage was out of Optimax, there isn't another garage like it for miles! I don't have any Super Unleaded stations either.
I don't know if it has effected the car yet but I know that if it does there will be a considerable difference and lack of fun on my part..
So if it has or will reset I would like to know how to reset it again.

Any concrete info? :)

[SGHOM]

cant really help you on that, but I'll try to find out. just a couple of questions though......... optimax ?? I take it that is the best fuel for these cars ?? and who sells it ?? I tend to just fill up when it's empty at the nearest watering hole with super unleaded. & this sound to me like a daft question but in auto mode, it changes up at around 6500 rpm.[ full throttle ] what about in tiptronic ?? does the rev limiter still prevent over revving ?

[Brind]

Shell sell Optimax, it has an octane rating of 98 compared to usual Super Unleaded which is around 97ron, plus they claim it's cleaner and all the other rubbish they say to get you to buy it, I buy it because of the octane rating.

Mine also changes gear at around 6500 to 7000rpm the Exhaust and filter supposedly keep it in gear longer due to the torque being moved up the rev range.
I've never redlined the tiptronic so I don't know what happens, in fact I've only used it once or twice.. I'm way too lazy, this is my first automatic car I'm not gonna waste that lazyness. :D
I guess there will be a rev limiter, using auto or changing yourself shouldn't make a difference.

[SGHOM]

auto's are NOT for lazy drivers !!!!:mad: I've only got 2 legs, so why should I mess about with 3 pedals ?? & why should you have to keep moving a stick up & down all the time, when you spend most of your time in a traffic jam ?? there are more manual cars in the UK, than virtually any other country. 2 legs, 2 pedals. !!! right leg accelerator, left leg brake. it's easy :)

[Spirit]

Brind - would be useful as you say to get concrete confirmation of exact resetting of ECU - how about a call to a Mitsy dealer ?

[Brind]

Originally posted by spirit979
Brind - would be useful as you say to get concrete confirmation of exact resetting of ECU - how about a call to a Mitsy dealer ?

It may be easier pulling teeth.. anyone up to the challenge of asking Mitsy such a simple question?

And Autos are for lazy people, obviously for those who aren't capable of driving a manual aswell which then wouldn't be classifed as being lazy.

[SGHOM]

I drive both manual & auto, and I know which I prefere. if your out on a sunday morn , with not much else on the road, then yes you can have great fun in a manual , but for everyday driving, then its auto 4 me.:)

[Spirit]

Originally posted by interlec
I drive both manual & auto, and I know which I prefere. if your out on a sunday morn , with not much else on the road, then yes you can have great fun in a manual , but for everyday driving, then its auto 4 me.:)

Yeah I drive both aswell, must admit it don't mind either but a manual is more fun :D

[Pescha]

OK OK I'll put my hand up and I'll ring Mitsi dealer tomorrow!

Pescha!

[Darren]

Manuals are fine but when you are on long journeys, like stuck behind some f***ing bus in Scotland it's nice to just relax until the oportunity to overtake presents itself. This is my first auto and i'm really enjoying the option of both with the tiptronic.

[Nick VR4]

Shell do Optimax other ones are
BP/
Shell
Esso
Texaco
Also Sainsbury's do a super-unleaded at some supermarkets
as do Adsa at the bigger stores and I have heard Sainsbury's is supplied from Shell

If you have to fill with UL dont wait till your on fumes to fill up
mixing UL with SUL will not make much diffrence if any

On the resetting of the ECU I have read it takes only a few minutes and then you let the car idle for 20 mins thats from the MLR forum
Idle can be a bit odd for a while aswell untill it learns again

[Simon]

Ill pop into our local Mits' Garage this week...and ask! Ive recently disconnected the battery to fidle with cold air induction...got noware fast and put battery back on...was off for half an hour. When it restarted the revs were at 2k on tick over.....and was reving up and down slightly....so took it straight away within 1 min of connecting the battery for a spin in tiptronic....didn't change to first until 6k...gave it a trashing for 2 mins....put it into auto and its fine...ticks over at 600 rpm 'ish.

Its not "Phycological" INSERT INTO post VALUES (spelt wrong) but the car does pull better but the fuel gauge dropped a quarter of a tank in no time. The exchaust note is slightly different also....louder!.....so im happy:D

P.S dont forget radio codes etc:rolleyes:

[Ultra VR-4]

I'm just curious but how are you actually supposed to tell if you are in safe mode? I mean is there a significant difference? If I fill with 98octane and then reset ECU does that mean ill be doing 12secs 1/4mile?
Its just that when i recently changed my battery i hoped that it reset the ECU. But i didnt really notice any change?:Ponder:

[Brind]

I bought the car while it was in safe mode, there was another on sale at the time which I also drove, the other was newer and completely standard whereas mine had the filter and exhaust, the newer car felt more responsive but I thought the filter and exhaust were what made the difference between the two.

Driving the car for a few weeks before the ECU was reset so I knew exactly how the car felt at varying stages of throttle, I seemed to have to push the throttle harder than in the other car.

But once the ECU was reset there was a HUGE difference!!!!!! I've heard ECU's normally adjust to whatever fuel being used but bad fuel is normally the way to make the ECU go into safe mode to prevent harm at high boost..? but obviously these cars are just very sensitive because I'm sure it was the lower octane fuel that caused it, Mitsubishi dealers only use low octane fuel anyway so the car was full of the stuff for quite a few miles due to delivery miles of about 200miles and then another 400miles when I sent it back because the engine had the usual lash adjuster noise.

I read elswhere on this forum that power is reduced to 240bhp please correct me if I'm wrong, so 240 from the normal 280 is quite a big difference.

[Pescha]

Ok guys, I rang my trustworthy Mitsubishi Motor mechanic. All he said was take off the negative terminal and wait for 10 to 15 seconds... This will reset the ECU wiping out any diagnostic readings and starts fresh!

He was in awe when I said I was ringing for a club member that lived in the UK. I also said that you Auckland boys who want a cheaper full service are willing to come down to Huntly to get them to service your VR4's, he again was in awe!

So thats his recommendation,take out what you will, hope it helps... cheers

Pescha!

See below thats where I take my car!

[Spirit]

Thanks Pescha

[Pescha]

Your welcome! :D

Pescha