Cold air feed

[Dan_G]

Finally installed some 3in ducting for my cold air feed. The feed comes from the left foglight grill (pre facelift foglight).

Definite improvement on pickup...... only now fuel cut happens more frequently
.... booo! looks like I may have to turn down my boost controller.....

[Louis]

Finally installed some 3in ducting for my cold air feed. The feed comes from the left foglight grill (pre facelift foglight).

Definite improvement on pickup...... only now fuel cut happens more frequently
.... booo! looks like I may have to turn down my boost controller.....

Hi mate,
cool!!, any chance of a pic of the other end, how did you secure the ducting at the back of the foglight vent? and what length is the 3" ducting, cheers Louis

[Roadrunner]

Just don't drive through any deep puddles, or you'll risk hydraulicking your engine. Not a pretty sight ... :sad3:

[Smokinmasta2]

Hi mate,
cool!!, any chance of a pic of the other end, how did you secure the ducting at the back of the foglight vent? and what length is the 3" ducting, cheers Louis

Yeah come on Dan show us all and bigger pics or move away a bit!!! - what pipe and where from BTW??


Smokin..............

[Dan_G]

Pipe is 1m when fully extended (the pipe compresses). It's actually a ripspeed component believe it or not.

I secured it with lots of tie wraps onto the intercooler support bracket... in the end it was very well secured

Dont have any bigger/further away piccys at the mo but Heres a piccy of the other end... its not very pretty at the mo..... think I'll be getting a funnel for this to ram even more air in... /yes :happy:

[Dan_G]

Just don't drive through any deep puddles, or you'll risk hydraulicking your engine. Not a pretty sight ... :sad3:

now I do like my engine but hydraulicking it sounds like taking it a bit too far :P :rolleyes4

Yeah but no....... I had thought about the sucking in water thing but I figure that because the airbox now has two air feeds if the bottom feed gets submerged in water I belive that rather than suck water in it will suck air through the original(top) airfeed as this is the path with the least resistance.

And if we consider any water that gets forced up the pipe, what with it being 3in bore, thats a hellavalotta water and it would drain pretty quick...... plus the fact I think my bumper might get ripped off if the car hits at speeds that would allow the water to get forced that far......

that was my reasoning anyway :P.........

Still think I'll steer clear of any big puddles........ /yes

[Louis]

It should be ok, as it is not a sealed intake system, ~(your's is just directing cold air to the filter, if water came up the ducting it would not go straight into the engine), it's really the closed type like the BMC where the only air supply comes from the duct which is attached to an enclosed filter, so you can't draw air from anywhere else if water gets in ant the engine sucks the water in, but your set up should be fine.
I was asking bout the attaching as I was thinking it would have to be well attached as when driving at speed it may come loose, cheers for the info.

[Dan_G]

I was asking bout the attaching as I was thinking it would have to be well attached as when driving at speed it may come loose, cheers for the info.

So far I've only driven at 90mph and it did'nt come loose :)

I'll let you know if it does :thumbsup:

[dickytim]

That looks good, can I have permission to steal your idea for my own use :happy:

Saves doing a whole cold air box, but still cools your feed.

[BraindG]

ive done exactly the same thing Dan, however i used a plasticy kinda pipe. however start, and end points are same place as yours... does make a huge differnce imho.. also i doubt very much that water can make its way up.. even if its does, theres still a 3" gap between the end, and the airfilter..

[pezza]

Finally installed some 3in ducting for my cold air feed. The feed comes from the left foglight grill (pre facelift foglight).

Definite improvement on pickup...... only now fuel cut happens more frequently
.... booo! looks like I may have to turn down my boost controller.....

ONE question!! Where did you find a route for a 3inch diameter pipe?
:rolleyes4 I did have a quick shifty at doing this (and could route to an intake as I have no fog lamp housing anymore with my old/new bumper) but ended up on fitting a BMC carbon filter thing....

Like you; as soon as I fitted this, I experienced exactly the same problems with fuel cut with my boost controller set up for .85ish bar. (gave me a fright of my life as I was racing an integra type-r at the time - still beat him tho :thumbsup: ) The cut was happening just under .8 I think...

I have now returned back to standard boost but the pickup with better induction is much improved. It seems to pull very much stronger now from low revs (even at standard boost)

So its now a toss up (coin wise b4 the wise guys comment :) )

Better induction - no increased boost VS standard induction and increased boost

Hmmm :inquisiti

[Dan_G]

ONE question!! Where did you find a route for a 3inch diameter pipe?
:rolleyes4 I did have a quick shifty at doing this (and could route to an intake as I have no fog lamp housing anymore with my old/new bumper) but ended up on fitting a BMC carbon filter thing....

Like you; as soon as I fitted this, I experienced exactly the same problems with fuel cut with my boost controller set up for .85ish bar. (gave me a fright of my life as I was racing an integra type-r at the time - still beat him tho :thumbsup: ) The cut was happening just under .8 I think...

I have now returned back to standard boost but the pickupfrom with better induction is much improved. It seems to pull very much stronger now low revs (even at standard boost)

So its now a toss up (coin wise b4 the wise guys comment :) )

Better induction - no increased boost VS standard induction and increased boost

Hmmm :inquisiti

The pipe was a simple fit. quite a straight run from the foglight with just two little bends. The foglight had heaps of space behind it to route the pipe, unless the tip/type s has some other gizmo behind there taking up the space.

boost v.s induction........ ermm both please :P.......

But, the better the induction..... the less work the engine has to do, which has to be a good thing, why make the poor wee car work for its air, having to suck through that restrictive standard galant airbox feed......

Id be interested to get a pressure gauge in the airbox to see if I'm now getting +ve pressure at speed.....

:happy:

right,, I've got this week so I'm off to try and finish the fitting of my tan leather seat covers....... So I'm off to cut my knuckles/hands some more (damn that seat framework is sharp :rolleyes4 )

Dan

[konman]

big dan, one question, is your car an auto or a manual. too many pipes in the way in an auto to really route any pipework through.. just curious if you found a way ?

[Dan_G]

big dan, one question, is your car an auto or a manual. too many pipes in the way in an auto to really route any pipework through.. just curious if you found a way ?

my car is manual. /yes

[nick-f1]

my car is manual. /yes

Hi Dan I have done this mod today using the same halfords ( ripspeed) ducting and works very well. But this ducting is crap, gonna change this for some flexible plastic/rubber hose as soon as I can lay my hands on some :thumbsup: Also have bought a end cap to fit into the grille but could not use this until I get the afore mentioned rubber hose this should tidy it up nicely. Its gonna be a bugger to fit tho.
Acceleration is better I think and no fuel cut , only have to lightly touch the throttle and yer onto pos boost. Holds 12-13 psi longer too before dropping off to 10 but think I'll need to drop the boost back a touch as over-boosted to 18psi a cople of times.......... not good. /Steeringw

Nick

[Big Ian]

if your rev'n hard at the time of meeting deep (ish) water their is a chance of sucking it in through your air fillter a freind's father done a set up very same as we have done to his 2.9 4X4 seirra (twin K,N induction) and his famous last word's before his engine got drowned were" naa the pipe end's 3,4 inches from the cone's"......he /Steeringw hit standing water (few inches deep) and the hose helped direct water straight in through his twin K,N's which made something go :inquisiti "BANG"
he dipped the clutch and rev'd his engine as he hit the water (re-action?)
/Hmmm lucky for him i had a 4X4 sitting waiting to be stripped......sold him the full car :smug:

"NEVER SAY NEVER"

[kornstar]

this sounds like a good idea, ill go and try this today aswell as the maf adjustment and see what happens.
Cheers for the info

[SGHOM]

why have one cold air feed, when you can have 5 !!! :thumbsup: :evil2:

[Dan_G]

why have one cold air feed, when you can have 5 !!! :thumbsup: :evil2:

showoff :P

[pezza]

Gee! U manual gearbox boys with all that space to route 3 inch ducting :embarasse

I am amazed at how much snappier the car feels with better induction.. the recirc pipe from the dump valve on my car was *disconnected* for a few days and that increase in *unmonitored* air being sucked in changed the car significantly. (sounded great too with that sucking sound not to mention the VTA sound!!)

Has anyone managed to force air from behind the grill? is there anough space??

NEEEED MORE AIR!! :evil2:

[ako]

As good as pointing air AT a filter is, the best way by far is to make cold air the only the only option - ducting only works once you get some speed up.

I had a pod filter/ducting arrangement, tried moving the filter itself to the foglight hole but it got way too filthy too fast. Final solution: Back to the stock airbox, with a K+N panel filter, and ran 2 3" ducts out of the airbox (which is otherwise sealed off)- one to what was my foglight hole, the other into the inner guard. Only place the cars getting air from now is outside the engine bay.

End result: More boost, better economy - and more speed than the other methods :evil2:


Also - if you like cold air, try insulating all your inlet piping while you're at it..

[kornstar]

ok say if i was to get some 3" ducting from the fog grill straight into the pod, would water have any chance to be sucked up? actually how much air gets sucked in?

[nick-f1]

Gee! U manual gearbox boys with all that space to route 3 inch ducting :embarasse

Has anyone managed to force air from behind the grill? is there anough space??

NEEEED MORE AIR!! :evil2:

Yeah its great having a manual!

As for the grill.... thats why I bought the end cap, this will fit in the grille alongside the number plate recess as Interlec has done. Only snag is the duct pie will need to be compressed elongated slightly to fit thru by the rad. hence my quest for some flexible rubber hose.

As for inducting water Ian this is a concern especially where I live in the sticks with sh***y lanes all around, this is why I am taking air from in the centre away from the nearside wheel.

And Ako I do have the standard air box, no pod filters for me they are worse than standard.

[nick-f1]

actually how much air gets sucked in?

I listened to mine with a pipe at both intakes at tick-over and the ducting seemed ( by sound) to be sucking more air than standard inlet. Which it should as the pipe is larger and not so restricted, but as to actual volumes ... who knows without some sort of measurement. BUT it does work! :thumbsup:

[dickytim]

it is more about the temperature of the air being sucked in, The colder the better, than the quantity of air.

[nick-f1]

it is more about the temperature of the air being sucked in, The colder the better, than the quantity of air.

Ermm yeah this is the reason we did it in the first place! cold air- more dense = more oxygen= more power.
. But the normal airbox inlet is restrictive /pan

[Dan_G]

Ermm yeah this is the reason we did it in the first place! cold air- more dense = more oxygen= more power.
. But the normal airbox inlet is restrictive /pan

Aye :thumbsup:

Its a fact.

We're still hindered by nasty fuel cut though.... which is dependent on mass of oxygen going through the MAF meter which we increase with this mod... and hence why I had to turn down my boost controller.... which is a bummer...

[Smokinmasta2]

Dont forget it's nearly as important to get HOT air out of the engine bay.
Any PC buffs will know what i mean..............

All very well getting cool air in but there is a limit to how much you get in other than turning your car into a giant air scoop!!
The more you get away from engine the better............anyway have a think you know what i mean!!!

Smokin...........

[colVR4]

This goes back to an idea that I had ages ago about getting the hot air from the engine bay. Rather than trying to force cold air in through a direct feed, you could get the hot air out using venting.

The advantage is that the venting does not have to be at the front of the car pointing forwards, reducing the risk of hydraulacing (sp). I had ideas of making some kind of shark fin venting on the wings behind the wheel arches using the passing air to draw hot air from the engine. The good thing about this is that water wouldn't be able to get in as it would be pointing rearwards rather than forwards.

The other idea was to raise the rear of the bonnet slightly so that there was a gap just in front of the windscreen. This would have to be done in a way as to not let water in to the engine bay though.

Anybody else got any bright ideas? Obviously this can then be coupled with forcing in cold air for best effect to get a good flow of nice, dense air through the engine bay.

Or I could just be talking hoop!!!

[nick-f1]

I have this problem of getting hot air out of the under bonnet on my Sunbeam Tiger V8 albeit to aid cooling as they overheat notoriously. This was achieved by jacking up the bonnet half an inch and fitting racing bonnet catches, this necessitates drilling 2 holes to fit the anti scuff plates and pins. But it was easily done as the bonnet hinges from the front, but it does work and the mechanical fan was changed for an electric and almost solved overheating in traffic.

Of course the leggy bonnet hinges from the rear - but it could be done and some sort of manual override for the fans would need to be rigged. But frankly I do not think the benefits if any would be worth the hassle imo.

[Big Ian]

longer bolt's and some stainless washer's will lift the rear (wind screen end) of the bonnet.

OFF TOPIC: Nick got any pic's you can post of your Sunbeam Tiger.........a very nice car :thumbsup:

[ako]

Little known fact: The back edge of the bonnet is a high pressure area. Look at where the intakes for your air conditioning are, then think about it some more. Raising the bonnet doesnt actually do much for having air flow out of the engine bay when the car is at speed. On the other hand, its funny seeing the heat rise up from it when you're stopped at the lights :p

Smokin - I see your logic, but what we're doing is helping the engine suck air in cooler air, not forcing air into the engine bay. The only place, if any, that sees more pressure is the inside of the airbox. The air feed doesnt have to be "ram air" either - just somewhere where there is cold air. Although a ram air effect does have noticable changes to how the car drives, once you get up to high speeds and it starts having an effect.

[crazyken76]

is that legal having only one headlight ?

[AlanDITD]

looks ****e, but well done for effort and functionality!

[Turbo_Steve]

is that legal having only one headlight ?

Nope.

[Anderz]

Aye :thumbsup:

Its a fact.

We're still hindered by nasty fuel cut though.... which is dependent on mass of oxygen going through the MAF meter which we increase with this mod... and hence why I had to turn down my boost controller.... which is a bummer...

Hmm can this be caused by a vortex disturbing the airflow so that the MAF can't read the flow correctly. Maybe the flow trough the MAF isn't as smooth when air comes in from the bottom too?

Done this mod on my old V6, but I enlarged the original hole and connected the cold feed pipe there

[funkstardelux]

been looking at fitting some naca ducts into the bumper or front fender to have ram air feed

[VR457]

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43919&highlight=air+box+mod

I'm still happy with the mod, the engine hasn't fallen to bits neither...

[funkstardelux]

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43919&highlight=air+box+mod

I'm still happy with the mod, the engine hasn't fallen to bits neither...

i remember that u did, rather liked it as its similar to what a lot of the dtm cars had, the snorkel factory fitted is restrictive , its a a bit like the jackson racing induction kit i had on my mx5. i'm thinking off running a similar pipe to the fron tbumper and fit a naca duct into the bumper

[VR457]

Have a go, the performance improvement i got, and measured, was worth it. Needed a rolling road and AFR setup to be totally sure but just backed off boost controller a bit.

[HOODY]

halfords ( ripspeed) ducting and works very well. But this ducting is crap

may sound silly but worth trying B&Q , same kinda ducting 75% cheaper than halfrauds.

[Ghost_2008]

I would have to agree with Hoody here, I bought some ducting ages ago for next to nothing at a local hardware store which would have cost about £20 in Halfords.

Adding the additional air feed just make it easier for the engine to breath, for example: if you drink a drink through a straw the larger the cross section of the straw the easier it is to suck, same thing with the engine, it doesnt necessarily suck any more air in, it just means it doesnt have to work quite so hard, which is why this mod helps with being responsive rather than adding power.........

If your serious about cooling the engine bay, I would look at adding additional venting/intakes in the bumper and either adding vents at the rear of the bonnet or raising the bonnet. As the air flows over the bonnet at speed this would cause an area of low pressure to build in the void between the wind screen and bonnet which would in tern cause air to be drawn through the engine bay.