Brakes have broken

[scc]

One of my rears seize each time I pull and release the hand brake.

To loosen I floor the car until there is a horrible "CLUNK" (It actually goes straight with three rolling wheels and the seized wheel being fully locked!)

Mitsubishi said that I only need my pads and disks changing which is causing the full lock?!?!?!? They said that it isn't a piston problem, nor a cable problem.
I fell over when they told me the prices to replace the disks, and now I've
decided to change them myself.

Is this problem more than just disk and pads? I'm not too convinced by what Mitsu have told me. Is there something else I should look out for?

Should I go for Black Diamond? OR ADL Blueprint disks? ADL BP are so much cheaper!

Cheers...think its time I paid up...

[Kieran]

I think it's more likely that either the lock or the guide pins have dried up and have siezed. Take 'em out (you have to remove the guide pin to get at the pads) and get them cleaned and lubed ;)

[Physician]

I agree with Kieran and would also add that there is an excellent and comprehensive write up on changing rear discs and pads in the Members Library.

Blueprint are excellent products manufactured to OEM specifications so go for those in preference to Mitsubishi if cost is an issue. I have used a number of their products.

[I-S]

I have some "issues" with black diamond discs (both fronts and rears) so I can't recommend them.

[scc]

Thanks for the info guys. I'm considering whether to fork out for membership :undecided



I have some "issues" with black diamond discs (both fronts and rears) so I can't recommend them.

Any specific issues? I had a chat with the place I'm likely to get them from, and they said its better to just go for the slotted ones. They've had cracked drilled ones and so can't recommend them over the slotted ones.

[Nick Mann]

?

Did I miss something? You are talking about the handbrake, I think, which means that the problem is with the shoes in the rear hub, not the calipers. The rear disc also houses a drum which is how the handbrakes works. Check that out too.

[scc]

?

Did I miss something? You are talking about the handbrake, I think, which means that the problem is with the shoes in the rear hub, not the calipers. The rear disc also houses a drum which is how the handbrakes works. Check that out too.

Is there a drum at the back? I thought they were discs?
Cheers,
Scc

[Big Ian]

yip small drum in the centre houses hand brake gubbins.

as for Black Diamond gear, i fitted front drilled disc's + predetor pad's and had no problem's... :inquisiti............except it stop's! /Hmmm

[BraindG]

i had this, if i drove off, and pulled up the handbrake, i heard a very loud clunk.. (not that i drive off and up handbrake all the time, was jsut to test this) - i squirted loads of oil into my rear calipers, the cowboy that i am :) - seems to have done the trick, no more clunking...

[scc]

?

Did I miss something? You are talking about the handbrake, I think, which means that the problem is with the shoes in the rear hub, not the calipers. The rear disc also houses a drum which is how the handbrakes works. Check that out too.

Is there a tutorial somewhere to service the handbrake gubbins in the rear hub? I've just ordered my disks and pads, but do I need anything else, i.e. new shoes?

Cheers,
Scc

[Big Ian]

Thanks for the info guys. I'm considering whether to fork out for membership :undecided


just think /Hmmm , you might have saved more than the membership fee if you bought your item's through one of our discount supplier's within the members section :thumbsup:

[DUNLY]

im getting the same problem, other night went to drive off, car wouldnt move hmmmmm, into reverse wouldnt move. back into first, we bit stronger with the revs and CLUNK away i went. now when i drive off after about 10/15ft i still here this clunk. im guessing its because the pads and discs are done at the back (kanckered), so i'll be getting them changed soon! :happy:

[Nick Mann]

Is there a tutorial somewhere to service the handbrake gubbins in the rear hub?

Here is the link. (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6423)

Unfortunately it won't work as it is in the members area! Sorry!!

[scc]

Just to get my head around this.

When the hand brake is pulled, the shoes in the rear drums expand locking the wheels. Do the calipers in the rears also close too when the hand brake is pulled, or is that purely operated from the foot brake?

I'm just trying to work out if its both the calipers and the bits within the handbrake I need to look at.

Cheers,
Scc

[Nick Mann]

I'm afraid I can't be 100%, but my understanding is that the shoes are handbrake only, the pads are footbrake only.

If I were you I would take the assembly apart, remove all excess rust, copper slip all the moving bits (But not the friction surfaces :rolleyes4 ) and re-assemble. This will cost virtually nothing except time and will cross one probable cause off the list should the problem continue.

[Paul Beazer]

i squirted loads of oil into my rear calipers, the cowboy that i am :) - seems to have done the trick, no more clunking...
Since then my 60-0 times have really gone up....! /pan

[Wouter]

i had this, if i drove off, and pulled up the handbrake, i heard a very loud clunk.. (not that i drive off and up handbrake all the time, was jsut to test this) - i squirted loads of oil into my rear calipers, the cowboy that i am :) - seems to have done the trick, no more clunking...

No more clunking.... also not more stopping!
:embarasse

[scc]

One of my rears seize each time I pull and release the hand brake.

To loosen I floor the car until there is a horrible "CLUNK" (It actually goes straight with three rolling wheels and the seized wheel being fully locked!)

Mitsubishi said that I only need my pads and disks changing which is causing the full lock?!?!?!? They said that it isn't a piston problem, nor a cable problem.
I fell over when they told me the prices to replace the disks, and now I've
decided to change them myself.

Is this problem more than just disk and pads? I'm not too convinced by what Mitsu have told me. Is there something else I should look out for?

Should I go for Black Diamond? OR ADL Blueprint disks? ADL BP are so much cheaper!

Cheers...think its time I paid up...


Ok, I've changed my rear pads and disks.....
.....I must say that it was almost impossible to get the disks off, but I did it and I nearly ripped out the shoes in the process.

The new disks slipped on with some force, and one side did not sit perfectly flush for reasons I couldn't find.

Anyway, are the shoes meant to be touching the insides of the disk drum when the hand brake is released? Both wheels do not rotate as freely/easily when they are off the ground?

There is a horrible scraping noise even after travelling over 300 miles. Furthermore the disks are almost glowing hot after a drive.

Am I missing something?

scc

[michaeli]

Completely off topic...

but why do they call you (or why do you call yourself) SCC?

Your initials or do you work for them(SCC that is)??

Regards,

Mike

[Kieran]

There is a horrible scraping noise even after travelling over 300 miles. Furthermore the disks are almost glowing hot after a drive.

Am I missing something?

scc

That's not normal behaviour and is definetly not good!! - Sounds like your handbrake shoes are rubbing - I bet they're well glazed by now too.

Dismantle it all again and maybe see if there's a way to adjust the shoes/ handbrake cable.... There's service manuals in the member's area (in the library I think) that contains rear brake info.

[DUNLY]

SCC: see when you had the clunking, did it happen just after u had driven off, and then there was an ALMIGHTY CLUNK, that u could feel through your a**e at the same time.......?????? im still getting this, goin to dismantle the discs and drums, nxt day me and my mate get off, and give it a good clean up. (although it had disapeared for a fair few weeks).

just remembered, my handbrake doesnt really work on a hill now, needs to be up full. /Hmmm lol

[Nick Mann]

On the VR4 there is an adjuster screw near the bottom of the back plate between the shoes. Turning this adjusts the shoes. There is an access hole on the hub of the disc (should be covered by a rubber grommet) through which you can adjust the screw, but it is fiddly. I would say that your drums were worn and now you have new drums the shoes are adjusted incorrectly.

Make sure the disc is sitting all the way back! If the disc moves it will release the tension on the studs, effectively giving you slack wheel nuts!!

[scc]

Thanks for the suggestions. The scraping noises had got to me, and I've spent the past 5 hours in the dark investigating. And I got a result :scholar:

Problems resolved + new bit of wisdom to be shared....

1) The shoes were 'just' touching the insides which contributed to the heating of the disks. The heat nearly melted the painted hammerite!

-> Adjusted the adjuster in the drum and it made some difference in the rotation.

2) Check the two pics for the reason of the 'mystery' scraping/chopping noise.
-> The blue surround is melted metal originating from the rim of the hub cover plate (green arrow)

-> It seems that during the removal process of the old disks the drum cover plate was distorted pulling it forward (red arrow). Also confirmed by the protruding spring retainer. Fitting new disks would then be incontact with the drum cover plate causing the noises.

-> A large G-Clamp did the trick to flatten out the plate again. After this fix, the wheel spun very smoothly and no scraping noises (and sparks!)

-> The result: Silence is golden, cool to touch, and she drives without a bind. :thumbsup:

Scc
PS I don't bother with removing the lock pin when taking the calipers apart, I just pull the caliper off its cradle when the guide bolt is removed. (Thats one less bolt to bevel ;-)

[scc]

SCC: see when you had the clunking, did it happen just after u had driven off, and then there was an ALMIGHTY CLUNK, that u could feel through your a**e at the same time.......??????

I had the that same almighty clunk after I release the handbrake and then drive off. That problem has gone now since I gave the brake mechanism a good grease up.

scc

[scc]

Completely off topic...

but why do they call you (or why do you call yourself) SCC?

Your initials or do you work for them(SCC that is)??

Regards,

Mike

They happen to be my brother's initials. I have similar initials but I mis-typed during registration and it just stuck.

scyc